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Seven wines


Florida Jim

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2005 André et Michel Quenard, Chignin:

Another set of Quenards (the Savoie seems to be overrun with them) making lovely wine that is reminiscent of pinot gris on the nose with a bit of apple mixed in and reminiscent of grüner on the palate less the spiciness. All and all, a lightweight, bright, vinous wine with charm and detail. About $13; I’d buy it again.

2003 Dumol, Chardonnay Chloe:

Oaky, viscous and pedestrian; should be $10, not $60. I’d not buy it again.

2004 Droin, Chablis Les Clos:

Unbalanced, oaky, sour and unpleasant. About $45; I’d not buy it again.

2005 Harrington, Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown:

Started thin but gained weight in the glass and became more candied. And why any pinot weighs in at 15.8% is beyond me. Price unknown.

2001 Poiera:

Solid, velvety and complex; not profound but certainly enjoyable. About $30; I’d not buy it again at that price.

2004 Ostertag, Pinot Blanc:

Very flavorful and enjoyable with excellent acidity and good depth. About $14; I’d buy it again.

2004 Dom d’Aupilhac, Montpeyroux:

Mouvèdre 30%, carignan 28%, syrah 25%, grenache 12%, cinsault 5%; spicy, round in the mouth with a worsted texture, good depth, savory aromas and lots of staying power. A friendly wine with or without food and has the substance and balance to cellar awhile. Really good and just $15; I’d buy it again.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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