Carolina adventure

[DTBarton]

Just returned from a nine day sojourn through the southeast. Did some great eating and thought I'd share some thoughts. Many of these places have been mentioned in these forums before so I'm just adding a recent review. No pics, sorry.

Started in Portsmouth, VA, at brother in law's place. Kudos to Aimee for some terrific grilled lamd chops. She marinated them overnight in olive oil, salt, pepper, and lots of fresh onion juice extracted by whipping onions in the food processor and straining. Wonderful, I'm going to steal it ASAP. We brought marinated shrimp and scallopped potatoes, they had nice salad, bonfire on a James river beach, life is good.

Took a leisurely back road drive from Portsmouth to Goldsboro, NC. Boy, was it cotton harvest time. Miles of roads with cotton balls in the shoulder. Wanted to try a couple of eastern NC barbecue places, Wilber's (http://hollyeats.com/Wilbers.htm) and McCall's (http://hollyeats.com/McCalls.htm). This is easy to do as they're about 1/4 mile apart on highway 70 just east of Goldsboro. We found the chopped pork barbecue, slaw, and Brunswick stew at Wilber's to be excellent. Hush puppies were good, but too sweet and not enough onion for my taste, local custom, I think. Liked their sauce, bought a bottle for $2. Very vinegary/peppery. McCall's is a buffet. The chopped pork and BBQ chicken were both very good. Ribs were somewhat overcooked and had an oddly sweet sauce. Not bad if you got a thick one and cut the sauce with some vinegar sauce and Texas Pete. Slaw was good (both places served a green slaw, no carrots). Fried chicken was decent. Rest of the buffet was no big deal, mediocre fried seafood and tired vegetables. Missing were the more interesting veggies listed on the white board by the door like collard greens and lima beans. Verdict: I liked Wilber's BBQ a little better, more vinegar and a little coarser chop. Slaws were a draw. McCall's hush puppies were less sweet, better, but still no onion to speak of. Wife liked McCall's BBQ a little better. Wilber's wins on atmosphere big time. As an aside, wife's great grandfather ran a clothing store in Goldsboro, she had an ad from 1917 when it opened. She also had a picture of his house, but no address. Mentioned it to our somewhat elderly waitress and started a 20 minute discussion about the store and where the house might be. She remembered the store. Another older gentleman who worked there drew us a map of downtown Goldsboro and marked where the house might be. Said his mother in law had worked at the clothing store many years ago. Finally a visit from Wilber himself. He said he worked at another BBQ place (Owen's?) from 1949 until he started Wilber's in the early 60s. His opinion was the house might have been torn down. The neighborhoods they identified had many houses in the same architectural style and some lots where things had been torn down. Really nice, helpful folks. I love the south.

Another back road drive from Goldsboro to Charleston, SC. Route 701 was very enjoyable from about 30 miles south of Goldsboro all the way to Georgetown SC on the coast. Passed a promising looking BBQ place called Woodie's too early to eat. Decided to eat a late lunch at Seewee in Awendaw, SC, about 20 miles north of Charleston (http://www.roadfood.com/Reviews/Overview.aspx?RefID=1402, http://hollyeats.com/Seewee.htm). Gone by it a few times, got good review from Holly and my friend Michael Bonner, two good signs. In a word, great! We wanted to try the fried shrimp and fried oysters, so got those two platters. Menu said they came with fries and slaw. Waitress said, "Are you happy with fries and slaw?" They have a long list of cool side dishes and you can pick whichever, a nice touch. So, we said, let us have slaw, butter beans, collard greens, and fried okra. And a side of hush puppies. Seven items, all delicious. These folks know how to fry, thin, crisp, tasty, non greasy coating. As good a fried shrimp as I've ever had, maybe best fried okra. Hush puppies not sweet and oniony, all right. Have to go back.

On to Charleston for Anniversary dinner at Fig(http://www.eatatfig.com/home/default.aspx). Really excellent dinner. Appetizers were all very good. Special app of local wax beans in a lemon vineagrette. Simple and superb. Never had a wax bean anywhere near that good, small, tender, vibrant. Chicken liver pate was smooth, rich and delicious. Duck confit was crispy and good and a nice textural foil to the lentils it came with. Entrees lived up to the apps, always a plus. Two folks had the suckling pig. Neat presentation. They carve the pig and take a rectanglar frame. In the frame, they mix some white meat, some dark, and some brown skin bits. Remove the frame, top with roast pork juices and a mustard sauce (It IS SC pig!). Served with small beets and greens. Yum. Pan seared grouper was good as well. I got the sweetbreads. Impeccable ingredients, but I found the dish to be underseasoned, tending towards bland. Odd, since bacon was used in the prep. Excellent dessert of Carolina gold rice pudding with cherries and walnuts. Nice bottle of pinot Noir. Fun anniversary. They have live jazz on Tuesday nights which we enjoyed.

Dinner the next night was at a new Italian restaurant called Mercato. Here is a review I didn't see before I went that captures my experience pretty accurately: http://www.charleston.net/assets/webPages/...Date=10/19/2006

After the build up of the chef, his background, training with Mario Batali, etc, we were underwhelmed. We did like some of the same dishes the reviewer liked. The carpaccio was very good, the mushroom risotto was excellent. An eggplant app was good, except for bitter, inedible eggplant. Entrees were less successful. I thought the orichette with sausage and broccoli rabe was good, it was a bit spicy for the person who ordered it. My osso bucco was nice, but somewhat overcooked. I know it's a long braised dish, but this was done too long. The special that night was whole pompano, a fish we love and can't get very often. Unfortunately, it was way overcooked. The flesh was mush. A shame, it was a pretty fish. Also, our table in the middle of the upstairs dining room was so dark, we had to beg matches and a key chain flashlight to read the menu (and my eyes are pretty good for 46 years old). We weren't the only ones struggling with the low light. It's a new place, maybe still having growing pains.

The next day was spent in McClellanville SC, about 35 miles north of Charleston on the coast. It's a true shrimping village with white clapboard houses, live oaks with Spanish moss, and some of the best shrimp and oysters on the planet. We were treated to a great meal of shrimp sauteed in butter, garlic, capers, and Worcestershire that was fabulous. Kind of like New Orleans BBQ'd shrimp, but a little milder. Served over rice. Then on to oysters. Bull's Bay clusters roasted on sheet metal over a wood fire. Haven't had them in years and I'll still put Bull's Bays up against any oyster in the world. And our second bonfire of the week. Thanks Michael!

Heading to Clemson, SC for the weekend. Made an unplanned BBQ stop in Columbia, SC at Maurice's BBQ (http://www.mauricesbbq.com/). Saw the signs on I-26. Didn't have any expectations since big cheesy interstate signs usually mean lame food. Turns out it's a local chain with several locations in the greater Columbia area. We went to the main location north of I-26 at exit 113, I think. It's a BBQ complex like I've never seen. A restaurant, office complex, and a huge smoke building where I assume they cook stuff for all the restaurants. I was encouraged by the large amount of hardwood sitting there. Also, by the road, a big sign that says "we buy oak and hickory". Then I saw that they had been in business since 1939. Another good sign. Bottom line: Good stuff, SC style. We got one large platter to split so we could try some things. Chopped pork was very good, nice browns, coated in a yellowish mustardy sauce. Ribs were excellent, tender and meaty, nice smoke. A little salty, but that's a nit pick. The hash and rice was tasty, reminiscent of Sweatman's (http://hollyeats.com/Sweatmans.htm). When we ordered, the nice lady yelled back "extra plate with that platter!" Then, when the waitress brought it out, she dropped it off and came back with another plate with two more hush puppies and another roll, so our split was complete. More southern hospitality.

After a disappointing football game, headed home to Maryland. One last BBQ stop in Lexington NC. Never been before. Now I understand what the fuss is about. Wow. Best BBQ of the trip and we had a bunch of good BBQ. I guess I like the western NC style a little better than the easten, never would have guessed. First stop, the famous Lexington #1 (http://hollyeats.com/Lexington.htm). First impression: Good lord, look at the crowd for Monday lunch! Packed big parking lot, dine in and take out cranking at a high rate of speed. We had a chopped pork platter and a sandwich.

Some of the best I've ever had, beautiful smoke flavor and carefully chopped, not fatty at all. Added some of their very peppery brown sauce ($1.80/bottle, brought one home). The red slaw was perfect with the BBQ. I thought it meant red cabbage, but it's more like they mix a little tomato sauce in the slaw. It works. While looking for Lex #1, we passed the BBQ Center on North Main street (http://www.barbecuecenter.com/). Decide to stop back by and get a sandwich to go. Also excellent, very similar chopped pork and red slaw. I guess if I HAD to pick I'd take Lexington #1 by a nose. BBQ center was a little saucier and saltier, but that's serious nit picking, they were both great. Guess you can't get away with serving bad BBQ in Lexington.

Well, that's enough rambling for now. Think I'll go vegetarian for a few days!

[Varmint]

Thanks for the report, DT. I've been to all of the barbecue places plus the See Wee before, and you did yourself right. You really got a decent feel of the different styles of barbecue, and although I'll disagree with your final verdicts, none of the places are sub-par!

[Bombdog]

Next time you want to stop for que in the Columbia area PM me. There are MANY places better than Maurice's in the area.

[DTBarton]

Thanks for the report, DT.  I've been to all of the barbecue places plus the See Wee before, and you did yourself right.  You really got a decent feel of the different styles of barbecue, and although I'll disagree with your final verdicts, none of the places are sub-par!

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I'm sure you've divulged them before, but what are your favorite spots (for planning my next trip)? I see you're in Raleigh, home of your pig pickin'. Have to get to that event some time. I went to Murray's in Raleigh about two years ago, it was really good BBQ. Heard they're closed.

[DTBarton]

Next time you want to stop for que in the Columbia area PM me.  There are MANY places better than Maurice's in the area.

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Same request for you, Bombdog. Could you share names and locations of your favorite Columbia spots for my "next trip" dossier? Preferably somewhat close to I-26 if possible, but not required. All my SC connections are lowcountry and/or upstate, usually just driving through the middle. As a Clemson alum, too much Columbia time can get to ya!

[DTBarton]

One more review, forgot to give Soby's in Greenville some love. http://www.sobys.com/ Man, has downtown Greenville changed in the last 20 years! We stayed at the Hyatt and enjoyed walking Main Street in the evenings.

Had a very nice dinner at Soby's. It was packed on Friday night. Took them about 15 extra minutes to get us seated, but once there, the service was pleasant and efficient.

Apps were good. She crab soup was tasty but could have been hotter/a little thinner. Fried calamari was delicious and light. I little more bread than squid, but nice. Some of the best fried greem tomatoes I've erer had.

Entrees were all good, that happy time when the entrees were more consistent than the apps. Our group tried the crab cakes, the leg of lamb, the hangar steak, and the pork tenderloin. All were well prepared with nice ingredients and thoughtful side dishes. Neat refurbished building. Hostess said it was a shoe factory in a previous life. This is not your Daddy's Greenville, SC!

[The Cynical Chef]

One more review, forgot to give Soby's in Greenville some love.  http://www.sobys.com/ Man, has downtown Greenville changed in the last 20 years!  We stayed at the Hyatt and enjoyed walking Main Street in the evenings.

Had a very nice dinner at Soby's.  It was packed on Friday night.  Took them about 15 extra minutes to get us seated, but once there, the service was pleasant and efficient.

Apps were good.  She crab soup was tasty but could have been hotter/a little thinner.  Fried calamari was delicious and light.  I little more bread than squid, but nice.  Some of the best fried greem tomatoes I've erer had.

Entrees were all good, that happy time when the entrees were more consistent than the apps.  Our group tried the crab cakes, the leg of lamb, the hangar steak, and the pork tenderloin.  All were well prepared with nice ingredients and thoughtful side dishes.  Neat refurbished building.  Hostess said it was a shoe factory in a previous life.  This is not your Daddy's Greenville, SC!

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You ate at Soby's!!!

Oh please.....

this place is way better than Soby's

[BrentKulman]

You ate at Soby's!!!

Oh please.....

this place is way better than Soby's

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Wow, nothing like tooting your own horn.

[Varmint]

John's always been so shy.

My favorite spots are all over these boards. Let me know the next time you're planning on being in the area, and I'll take the time to compile them all.

Of course, were I in Greenville, SC, there'd be only one choice!!!

[DTBarton]

33 Liberty was on our list based on lots of kudos in this forum. After much driving it was the close walking distance from the hotel that made the diff. Hit you all next time. I mean, how can Snow White AND Varmint be wrong?

[The Cynical Chef]

It is hard to convince someone to get back into their car once they have stopped on Main Street...