WTN: Four with Friends on Tuesday

[David McDuff]

• 1999 Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley (9/26/2006)
  Of four wines served at a dinner with friends recently, this wine had the curious distinction of vying for the least interesting yet also the most surprising of the night. Least interesting: well, it's negociant Napa Chardonnay, easy to drink but lacking in any real character or distinction of flavor or texture. Surprising: at seven years old, not only was it still holding up well but it wasn't showing any signs of tiredness. The flavors have mellowed to a round, ripe pear and buttered toast combo and the color is hinting at light golden. Balance is fine, with gentle acidity buoying the wine's medium-full weight.
  
• 2000 Ratzenberger Kloster Furstental Riesling Sekt Brut - Germany, Mittelrhein (9/26/2006)
  Vintage in and vintage out, this is a long-time favorite of mine. The 2000 is just starting to soften up and really show its fruit and full aromatic spectrum. It benefits from being poured in a regular white wine glass rather than a flute as this serves to put its focus on aroma rather than on its mousse which, not being terribly fine, might be its only real flaw. A great accompaniment to a wide range of foods, including the corn soup with which it was served. Also a good candidate for further bottle aging.
  
• 1994 Mount Veeder Winery Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder (9/26/2006)
  The last time I drank a bottle of this must have been a good six years ago. And I'm stymied to put my finger on anything that's changed with the wine since then. In my book, that's not a good thing. While there's plenty of still youthful red fruit, the wine continues to display a green tinge on the mid-palate; the tannins are very soft. While it's held up quite well, it really hasn't gone anywhere with time, aside from some mellowing of its oak flavors, and I doubt that it will do anything other than ride a straight line until it eventually tires out. Pleasurable enough as a simple drink but not really living up to the promise of its vintage nor especially of its AVA.
  
• 1996 Château de Chamboureau Savennières Cuvée d'Avant Clos du Papillon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (9/26/2006)
  This was anticipated to be the wine of the night and it delivered, albeit in some slightly surprising ways. The main surprise came in the way of a much higher degree than expected of oxidation on the nose. 1996 was theoretically a fantastic vintage for the Chenin Blanc based whites in the Anjou and I had expected a more youthful wine. That said, wines like this can handle some oxidation and still deliver depth and complexity on the palate. This was full of mint, chamomile tea, honey, beeswax and lime oil flavors driven home by penetrating acidity. Though the wine is supposedly a demi-sec (more below) there was barely a hint of sweetness -- one really had to look for it with each sip -- to be found. A perfect accompaniment to the nicely aged round of Selles-sur-Cher with which it was paired. I wish I had more as I'd love to look at it again over the next few years.
  Side note: This is one of the more confusing but also technically informative labels I've encountered on a wine from any country. It's not entirely clear as to whether the domaine wants to be known as "Chateau de Chamboureau" or simply by the name of the viticulteur, Pierre Soulez. I've opted for the former. On the front label, it is specified as moelleux with a designation "Cuvée d'Avant," which would seem to suggest a late picking. This is backed up by information on the rear label, although here it is referred to as demi-sec rather than moelleux. The fruit is harvested in two to three selections at a potential alcohol ranging from 14% to 16.5% (finished to 14.3%), with 50% botrytis and 50% partially raisined fruit.
  

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