Jean Georges and Nougatine

[Wilfrid]

Yvonne, were you eating from the full Jean-Georges menu in Nougatine. It sounds like it. Did you have to make a special request for that? I am assuming Nougatine has its own, less pricy menu.

Gives me an idea for a thread (receding footsteps...)

[CathyL]

That sounds to me like the Nougatine menu, although one can request the JG menu in that room. I agree with Steven that service in Nougatine can fall short of that in the dining room; I wonder if the disruption of the bar scene is part of the problem.

Yvonne, thanks for the wonderful, evocative report. He does wonderful things with foie gras - I haven't had a chance to try the strawberry version. The new pastry chef is still finding his way, I think. When I was there a month ago over half the desserts were still Eric Hubert's; we're going again on Friday and I'm curious about what the current lineup is.

Consistency is one of Jean-Georges' strengths: the place delivers a high level of quality even when he's not in the kitchen.

[yvonne johnson]

Yes, it was Nougatine's menu (which included 1 if not 2 tasting menus). The sommelier also told us that Nougatine's kitchen is downstairs and JG's kitchen is on the ground floor at the back of the Noutagine room--I think I've got that right.

A couple of other small things I forgot to add. In trying to explain the service glitches, I'm not sure it's because of the presence of the bar. Something I noted was the waiters use a trolly as a staging post in the middle of the room. Not only does this contraption break up the visual beauty of the long room with its big windows, but the waiters hover around it. I'd get rid of it. Second, placemats were used. I understand that this is the more casual of the 2 dining rooms, but I'd prefer white table cloths.

Cathy, I look forward to hearing about your meal at JG.

[CathyL]

Nougatine's kitchen is indeed downstairs, as are the prep areas for Jean Georges, the walk-ins and the pastry kitchen. The visible kitchen upstairs is where JG dishes are assembled, cooked and plated.

The Nougatine kitchen also does room service for the hotel. When I was a tourist downstairs for a week, it tickled me to hear someone yell 'One cheeseburger!' amidst all the exotica we were slicing and dicing.

[g.johnson]

One page of the wine list was devoted to describing a case of 1870 Lafite that J-G has acquired from a European Royal Family. Coyly they refused to name the family but then revealed that the case had been found in a Scottish Castle. Coutts have obviously called in the Queen Mother’s mortgage. $19,000 a bottle and no returns if anyone’s interested.

[Suzanne F]

Any recent experiences? We're going on 11/1 for Paul's birthday.

[CathyL]

We went last night and had an excellent dinner...I'll post details tomorrow.

[Liza]

Revelatory.

Divine.

Made me feel like I've never eaten before.

[CathyL]

We had an 8:30 reservation Friday night and the couple joining us cancelled that morning. Fortunately, Liza and Davy were available to join us, and the evening was upgraded from business-ish dinner to pure hedonism.

Amuses - On a white rectangular plate, working from right to left: a tall shot glass of cool basil soup, garnished with slightly warm shrimp fondue; a tiny sharp cheddar panini, topped with slivers of pickled green tomato; a little spoon with three perfect raspberries (from the Union Square market, Davy told us), topped with fleur de sel gelée. Each was lovely, especially the soup. JG employs contrasting temperatures to very nice effect, and his AGs are often surprising and whimsical but never too cute.

Starters: For me, strips of raw bluefin tuna and red snapper, garnished with radish, mashed avocado and ginger vinaigrette. Vibrant, clean flavors. Davy ordered the seared scallops and cauliflower with caper/raisin emulsion, a signature dish I never tire of. Roy had the crab tasting, 3 mounds of Peekytoe, each dressed differently. And Liza had young garlic soup, ladled into her bowl at table and garnished with half a dozen frog legs that had been crisply coated and lightly fried. The legs had a most appealing texture – like sweetbreads, although not as firm – and a subtle flavor.

Middle course: Foie gras sandwiched with buttery brioche and toasted, accompanied by a ramekin of fig jam that tasted like the Platonic ideal of spiced apple butter, figs be damned.

Mains: My roasted veal loin was 4 or 5 perfectly rosy slices, scented with cumin, resting on a slick of parsnip purée, garnished with 3 little bundles of parsnip matchsticks wrapped in bacon and roasted. The sauce was sparked with quince and mustard. More components than JG usually combines on one plate but it was incredibly harmonious.

For Roy: caramelized sirloin, cut in strips and served with 2 dipping sauces – one mustard-based, the other soy-based with horseradish foam. Outrageously good. For Davy: lobster with a tiny dice of vegetables, tapioca and gewurtztraminer foam, anointed tableside with passion fruit purée. I’ve had seasonal variants of this dish several times. It may be the best lobster preparation I’ve ever tasted.

Liza’s slow-cooked salmon was also yummy although I’ve forgotten all the details.

We drank a Gruner Veltliner, of course (of course), from Weininger. (Roy doesn’t partake so we didn’t have to take his beef dish into account when choosing.)

At this point, Davy (who had spent a long day in the rain at Union Square) and Roy were probably ready to go home, but Liza and I wanted cheese. We sampled two blues (both tasted mostly of salt to me), a good Tomme de Savoie, a soft stinky Reblochon and an ash-covered runny goat. The baby-faced sommelier suggested a half bottle of Nebbiolo Passito, 1997, from Alessandro Gianni. (I just wrote down everything on the label…) He said it was wild, and it was – almost raisiny.

Dessert: The prix fixe includes one of three four-part samplers. We asked for one of each and they brought a second Chocolate as the 4th plate. Our server gave me a menu, which is transcribed below.

The standout among the desserts for me was the kalamanzi cream – panna cotta-like in texture, deeply aromatic lime in flavor.

CHOCOLATE

Warm Chocolate Cake, Vanilla Ice Cream

Chocolate Caramel Mousse, Hazelnut Succès, Salted Peanut

White Chocolate-Tarragon Millefeuilles, Grapefruit

Chilled Juniper Spiced Chocolate Soup, Devon Cream

EXOTIC

Chocolate Passion Soufflé, Passion Sauce

Roasted Pineapple With Cardamom, Coconut Sorbet

Soft Kalamanzi Cream, Champagne Grapes, Matcha Meringue

Mango Soup, Papaya, Litchi Ginger Sorbet

AUTUMN

Chocolate Cinnamon Chiboust

Cheesecake, Sangria Stewed Figs

Fall Fruit Fricassée, Brioche, Crème Fraîche

Concord Grape Soup, Buttermillk Panna Cotta

After this came petits fours and house-made marshmallows, upon which I could only gaze.

[Sandra Levine]

Thank you Cathy, for this wonderful description. I love to watch the kitchen at J-G from the south-facing window on the street. You can see these dishes being prepared by a bevy of intense cooks. It's like a silent movie. I hope to actually eat there one of these days, but your post made me feel that I was there.

[Liza]

Very true about the frog legs - I described them to someone as "sweetbreads on sticks".

The slow cooked King salmon was so light and feathery . When I slow cook salmon it gets dense, when JG does it wants to float off the plate. Davy was stunned by the lemon-poached lobster. He reports that JG is a constant presence at the farmer's market.

The food and company were sublime.

[Suzanne F]

Thanks so much for the report. Sounds like whatever we order when we go for Paul's birthday, we're in for a treat.

[smileykj218]

My sister is a beef and chicken girl from the midwest (poor soul) but I am looking at taking her to Nougatine. I had a wonderful outing last Nov. at JG but was curious to know if anyone knows what she might like from the this Fall's menu.

[Suzanne F]

Paul’s Birthday Dinner at Jean George, Friday, November 1, 2002

A very, very long report

(Once again, apologies to my friends who are getting the identical story on different boards. Also to the wine mavens reading this; I was not careful enough to capture all the important information on the many, MANY wines we had. And finally, to those who actually know the menu – I did not keep a copy, and so may err on the composition of some of the dishes.)

Our reservation, made about two weeks before the date, was for 6:00PM. When I called, I asked if we would have to vacate the table by any specific time – No, I was told. Sigh of relief; at a dinner like this, we have been known to take one hour just to decide on our order (le Lion d’Or, Washington, DC, about 1978).

We arrived right on time. The reception staff were very pleasant, if a bit chilled. Physically, that is: the street doors open automatically and it doesn’t seem to take much to make them part. A gracious if not effusive welcome, in any case.

We were seated in a corner banquette by a waiters’ station, just inside the (open) doors that lead into Nougatine (the “café” attached to the restaurant). No doubt others would have considered it a lousy table, in that location. My response: eh? We got to play kneesies all night, and also chatted with the waiters more than we could have otherwise. The room was a bit on the crowded side (our standard is Chanterelle). And we had the massive new building going up on the site of the Coliseum hulking over our shoulders. But we were just there for the food. On a positive note, we did have a great view of a sommelier’s station; so we could check out what other people were drinking.

Service started off very efficiently – and stayed that way almost to the end of the meal. We were presented with menus, and as soon as I asked, I was handed the wine list. (Points for that! Not that annoying French stuff we got hit with at Daniel.) To be honest, I never really looked much at it, beyond the Sparkling Wines by the Glass. Of those, we ordered a Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé, which we know from Chanterelle and love, and a glass of Riesling Sekt from Pfalz, just because we’ve never had it. It was unexpectedly wonderful: full-flavored, fruity but without the characteristics I usually dislike in Rieslings.

For once, we both ordered a tasting menu. Normally we will, if possible, do one tasting and one à la carte, having the kitchen split the extra courses. But this time, the Autumn Tasting (6 courses plus dessert) was irresistible; besides, they tell you that the whole table must order it. A bit of a cop-out for the kitchen, to my mind (“sorry, we don’t want to have to coordinate your meal”), but then again we could never have tried so many different dishes otherwise. And I copped out on the wine, asking the sommelier to make up a flight to go with the meal. So.

Finally, she gets to talking about the food! The amuse came as three "courses" on a beautiful white oblong plate. The first part was a tall, thin cordial glass with a warm apple soup: creamy but not rich, tart, subtly spicy -- and with little cubes of foie gras suspended in it. Oh, my. The middle item was a 1-inch square of dark sour bread, topped with some sharp mustard sauce and a square of unctuous raw salmon -- which had more flavor than a whole mouthful of farm-raised fish. On top of the fish was a dab of a sweet-and-tart marmalade. The last amuse was a slice of asian pear wrapped in proscuitto, all sitting on top of an herb purée and with tiny cubes of pear gelée scattered around. Crisp fruit, chewy meat, soft purée and gelée. And the flavors were as much a contrast as the textures. Our Champagne and Sekt went quite nicely.

The first course was the Foie Gras Brulée. If I never eat another thing, I believe I’ve tasted heaven. This dish was sensational: contrasts of textures (soft, creamy foie on a chewy brioche crouton, topped with a crunchy disc of caramelized sugar) and flavors (salty foie, slightly bitter burnt sugar, and spicy, sweet-and-tart fig jam). With it we had a Belingard Monbazillac 2000 – not as syrupy as Sauternes, more muted sweetness, but a lovely match.

Second: peeky-toe crab salad with Granny Smith apples, cucumber gelée, and mustard foam. (Lots more foams yet to come). The crab was just a molded mound, wonderfully fresh and flavorful. The apples were NOT Granny Smiths, but some red-skinned variety. They were very thin slices, and obviously cut seconds before serving. Unfortunately they were topped with a bit of goo (not the cucumber gelée) that reminded me of hair pomade. But the gelée was undoubtedly cucumber, and the mustard foam with its bite was a good contrast. Wine: a dry Muscat: Bianco secco La Gazella.

Third: risotto with porcini and fines herbes. Very nice risotto, creamy with just the right bite. The porcini had the look and mouthfeel of having been cooked with a veal stock reduction, but the flavor was more of a mushroom reduction. Herbs were chopped fresh and as purée with oil; tarragon predominant, but balanced overall. Wine: a disappointing California Niebaum-Coppola Blanceneaux. The bouquet started off too reminiscent of acetone. The wine was just okay.

Fourth: slow roasted black cod with potato “pasta” (their quotes), lemon cream foam, and Osetra caviar. I must state my prejudice: feed me caviar on anything, and I’m yours for … well, at least the duration of the meal. Again, a dish of textural contrasts. The fish was rich and unctuous, but in a totally different way from Nobu’s marinated version. I had to explain to Paul that “black cod” is really the same as sable, a much-beloved Jewish “appetizing store” item of our youth (along with REAL lox and smoked chubs). The potato “pasta” was simply julienne threads of potato, barely cooked so they still had some crunch. Normally, this would be awful, but not here. And I wanted to mainline the lemon-cream foam. Tart, but not too; rich, but not too; just plain great. Then about a tablespoon of the aforementioned caviar. And almost unnoticed, until I happened to taste it – a few tiny flakes of a very firey red pepper. Just enough to surprise. Wine: 2000 Grunerveltliner (my notes here are getting a little jagged, sorry). I think it was about here that the service stopped being so briskly-paced. Which was fine with us, except for having to wait for our wine to be poured before we could start eating the course.

Fifth: the most visually stunning dish: poached lobster with brunoise of Fall vegetables, tapioca, and Gewirtztraminer foam, finished at the table with a tiny drizzle of Thai-spiced passion fruit purée. Needless to say, the pieces of lobster were perfectly cooked, and outrageously flavorful. Vegetables were beets, butternut squash, zucchini, and yellow squash; the tapioca beads were clear and shiny. Of course everything was cut to a perfect brunoise, matching the size of the spheres of tapioca. And each was cooked à point, no doubt individually. The foam was most definitely WINE-based (hic!). But it was that little bit of spicy, tart passion fruit that pulled everything together. Wine: a Palette from Chateau Simone (rosé from Provence). When the beets bled into the sauce, they turned it exactly the same shade as the wine. Now THAT’s coordination!

Sixth: Venison with butternut squash and “almond purée” – gamier than I’m used to, which in fact was good. The squash is not one of my favorite vegetables, but it was good, of course. The purée was delicate and a good contrast. There was probably some sauce and something else, but by then, who could take good notes? (Only Cabrales ) Wine: another surprise of the night: Bouvard Dézaley 2000 – a Swiss red, blended from 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Merlot, and 20% Syrah. Never in a million years could we have known about this one. It was perfect with the venison. Just perfect, even at this young age.

Desserts: We ordered the Autumn and Exotic dessert tastings, and received the Chocolate tasting as well. I have no notes but (almost) remember a few: a spiced chocolate soup; a “milles feuilles” of autumn citrus fruits, with white chocolate in place of the pastry and a layer of tarragon-flavored whipped cream (wow); chocolate mousse cake; something chocolate with a salted peanut-caramel sauce; Concord grape something; chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream; and the best best best of all: calamansi panna cotta. Tart from lime and buttermilk (?); creamy mouthfeel but not rich. A great way to end the meal. And of course mignardises: flavored marshmallows, truffles dusted with green tea powder, tiny meringue sandwiches, apricot jellies, and dark chocolate. Nowhere near as overpowering as at ADNY. (NOTE: Johnny Iuzzini, the pastry chef, was just named as a winner of New York Magazines first annual Chef Awards – in the 11/11 issue.) Wines: an Iced Apple Wine from Québec, and a 20-year-old Tawny Port (not our first choice, but just fine).

Having been seated at 6:00pm, we finally left at about 9:30pm.

So: thanks for sticking with me this far. I have no idea if we will go back on our own, but if anyone offers, I’ll be there!

[CathyL]

Suzanne, thank you for a wonderful report. Many of the dishes you described so beautifully are new since my last visit. I'm glad the lobster is still there - is that not one of the most outrageously delicious lobster preparations ever? Who knew tapioca could be so sexy?

I've been a little disappointed in the desserts since Eric Hubert left, but figured Johnny just needed a little time to find his groove on the wild West Side. I'm happy to hear he has.

I still don't get the marshmallows, though.

[KMPickard]

"Oh my" just about sums it up, Suzanne.

Thanks for all the vicarious pleasure.

K.

[Jinmyo]

Suzanne, thanks.

Hm.

On top of the fish was a dab of a sweet-and-tart marmalade.

Ummm....? Was....?

[Suzanne F]

Might have been fennel; I forgot to note. But sigh, whatever it was ...

[Jinmyo]

Otay....

[macrosan]

Otay to you too, Jinnysan.

Great report, Suzanne, and confirms Jean Georges on my "must go" list. I did have breakfast there a couple of times, and was disappointed

[southern girl]

My third visit to JG was the charm...one experience fair, one very good and now I can add excellent to the list. I asked for and received a 5:30 reservation. Upon being seated I ordered a glass of Billecart Rose. My waiter, James, inquired if I was dining pre-theatre. I explained I had plenty of time, as I was attending the Alabama-Oklahoma basketball game at the Garden at 9:30. A discussion of sports ensued. Finally, a waiter with a personality at JG (and one who provided a perfectly paced meal with a surprise or four along the way ).

I chose the Autumn tasting menu. It was preceded by a trio of amuse: a shot glass of Concord grape puree and jus topped with a peanut foam...not to my taste (or that of many of the other diners from my observation). James mentioned it was only the second night they had offered this amuse. A Chinese style soup spoon filled with carmelized pumpkin seeds topped with a small piece of ruby grapefruit (interesting). And, a raw Nantucket scallop, topped with a drop of cranberry puree and a small square of brown

bread...very tasty.

Foie Gras Brulee, Spiced Fig Jam...oh my...beautiful contrast of flavors and texture. Probably the most interesting preparation of foie I have had in ages.

Served with an Iced Apple Wine from Quebec.

Peekytoe Crab Salad, Fuji Apple, Hot Mustard Froth...another wonderful juxtapostion...the sweet crab, tart apple and spicy hot mustard froth.

With this course (and the next three) I enjoyed a bottle of 1998 Chassagne Montrachet, Colin Delenger.

Herb Risotto, Wild Mushroom and Porcini Confiture- Herbs included tarragon, marjoram and chives. Perfectly cooked risotto and a generous amount of porcini, shiitakes and chanterelles.

My first surprise: I had mentioned my poor lunch at La Grenouille...and my disappointment regarding my frogs' legs. James arrives with an additional course from the regular menu: Young Garlic Soup with Thyme, Sauteed Frog Legs and Curly Cress...corpulent, juicy perfectly sauteed frog legs to dip ina beautiful light garlic accented broth. !

Slowly Cooked Chatham Cod, Potato "Noodles", Creme Fraiche, Vodka and Caviar: Due to an allergy...no caviar for me...and I think the saltiness of the caviar is necessary for this dish. The cod was quite nice though.

Lemon Poached Lobster, Autumn Vegetable Tapioca and Fragrant Gewurztraminer Froth: Large pieces of properly cooked lobster nestled atop tapioca style beads of turnips, carrots and other assorted root veggies (must be a kitchen prep nightmare...but, wonderful for the diner)...napped with the light froth. Yet another excellent dish.

Surprise number 2: JG olive oil and bread...very tasty.

Millbrook Venison Studded with Candied Orange, Butternut Squash, Almond Puree, Juniper Salt: Two suitably sized, medium rare medallions of venison. I loved the juniper salt and the light butternut squash puree...could have done without the candied orange...a bit strong...and the almond puree...bland. Overall though a very nice dished. Served with a 1994 Haut Medoc Sociando Mallet.

Surprise number 3: The Pineapple carved and sliced tableside....ripe Costa Rican pineapple peeled, decoratively carved and sliced. Topped with a splash of Kirsch.

Surprise number 4: Two dessert tastings: Chocolate: Warm Chocolate Cake, Vanilla Ice Cream-JG standard; Chocolate Caramel Mousse, Hazelnut Succes...my 2nd favorite, Salted Peanut; White Chocolate-Tarragon Millefeuilles, Grapefruit...loved the use of tarrogon; Chilled Juniper Spiced Chocolate Soup, Devon Cream.

Caramel Tasting: Chocolate Crepe Suzette, Meyer Lemon...pedestrian...but, loved the lemon slice on top and nice sauce; Caramel-Banana Cake, Sable Croquant; Pepper Creme Caramel, Walnut Nougatine...my favorite nicely pepper spiced; Apple Soup, Caramel Gelee and Granny Smith Sorbet...lovely tart sorbet!

Served with a 1988 Chateau d'Yquem.

Petit Fours, marshmallows and assorted truffles...

An excellent meal with outstanding service!!!

[Steve Klc]

SG--have you seen Patrice's review of a similarly recent meal at J-G?

[lizziee]

Southern Girl,

Thanks for the wonderful write-up. It would seem that Jean Georges is still delivering a four star dining experience.

[southern girl]

Steve Klc..just checked it out...that was the second time I have had the crab salad...perhaps Patrice's was like mine the first time....the mustard froth lacked zip...which made for a mound of very nice crab in a puddle. I really liked the venison...granted it didn't have some of the more daring flavor combinations JG uses...but, I liked the juniper salt touch a lot...and the meat was perfectly cooked. With the pepper creme caramel...the night I it, it had a good pepper kick, guess it just shows even the best kitchens have their inconsistencies. I am sure in regard to dessert, Patrice being a professional, sets the bar higher than I do...I would give the desserts a B and the food an A...

Patrice, what did you think of the Foie Brulee...

[marcus]

Southern Girl -- Do you find that one excellent meal in 3 tries is an acceptable ratio for a restaurant in this category. I ate in Jean Georges once, had a meal comparable to your first, and never went back.