Jean Georges and Nougatine

[PaulaJ]

I would recomment JG's squab or pigeon...always delicious

along w. the foie gras which is heavenly. The spring garlic

soup w. forgs legs is a signature item and when at its best,

is also interesting. I find his desserts uninteresting.

[southern girl]

At the urging of Lizziee and other eGulleteers I made my debut visit to Jean George Friday night. Thank you all . Dining solo again, I began the evening with a glass of Veuve Cliquot in Nougatine while my table was being reset.

Upon being seated I got the feeling that my waiter would have preferred something other than a female one top. After a brief while he adjusted when he realized I didn't fit the lone female diner "profile".

The amuse bouche for the evening consisted of a tomato "lollipop" with crushed popcorn, peeky toe crab with a drizzle of chive oil and (my favorite) foie gras with dulce du leche foam.

After consulting with the sommelier I chose a 1999 Freie Weingartner Wachau Gruner Veltliner, which he assured me would go well with "Siganture Item" tasting menu I chose.

The first course was callled Egg Caviar (soft scrambled egg with osetra caviar) which they allowed me to make a substitution for (due to that damn caviar alllergy I have). In its stead I received Toasted Foie Gras and Brioche with Cherry Marmalade. Brioche perfectly toasted in duck fat encased melt in your mouth seared foie...served with the deep red cherry marmalade on the side.

2nd Course: Sea Scallop with Caper-Raisin emulsion, Carmelized Cauliflower. One large sea scallop halved horizontally. Still cooked medium rare. I liked the yen-yang of the caper-raisin emulsion to the scallop.

3rd course: Young Garlic Soup with Thyme, Sauteed Frog Legs. A lovely white puree based garlic broth with large slivers of garlic. The Frog legs were juicy and meaty with bronzed skin. They are served on the side of the bowl and you are encouraged to dip them in the soup. One of the best accompaniments I have enjoyed!

4th Course: Turbot in a CHateau Chalon Sauce, Tomato and Zucchini. Very simple but balanced. Turbot cooked med. rare served over diced tomato and zucchini napped with the Chalon Sauce. The acidity from the tomatoes added some zip to the turbot while providing a nice counterpoint to the sauce.

5th Course: Lobster Tartine, Lemongrass, Fenugreek Broth and Pea Shoots. Half a lobster tail topped with one claw...extremely tender...served in the broth with the pea shoots stacked on top. Simple yet elegant...with the lemongrass flavor being a wonderful compliment to the lobster.

6th Course: Broiled Squab, Onion Compote, Corn Pancake with Foie Gras.

My favorite course. A corpulent squab breast prepared med. rare with a gorgeous crispy skin. A hint of sweetness in the onion compote, perhaps vanilla. The foie was a larger piece than came in the earlier course, but, knowing I had two more knock out dinners on the books I behaved (at least from the cardiologist's viewpoint) and left the foie. I had to sneak in a glass of red wine for this course (and because I saw so many lovley reds on the tables surrounding me!). So I had a glass of Vincent Girardin 1999.

7th Course: Cheeses...perfectly aged and well presented...Crotin, Reblechon and Montbriac.

Dessert: I convince my waiter at this point just a scoop of champagne sorbet would be lovely...and it was.

Assorted minature madelienes, caramels, chocolates and gelees. I practiced good behavior once again...indulging in one madeliene.

All in all a very impressive experience and I would look forward to going back with a group or at least one other person to be able to experience a bit broader overview.

[cabrales]

southern girl -- If you are comfortable discussing it, what is the current price for the tasting menu you sampled?

[macrosan]

Upon being seated I got the feeling that my waiter would have preferred something other than a female one top. After a brief while he adjusted when he realized I didn't fit the lone female diner "profile".

Nice write-up, SouthernGirl, and I'd be fascinated to know what you mean by the above

BTW did you finish a whole bottle of wine, or do they serve half-bottles ? I always find it difficult when I'm dining alone to get the wine I want because they tend not to serve them by the glass or in half-bottles.

[CathyL]

Southern girl, thanks for the excellent writeup. I've never dined solo at JG, but I've gotten that signal from waiters elsewhere. I always figured the concern is that a lone female won't eat much, won't order good wine and/or won't tip generously. Hah!

Isn't that squab killer?

[Jinmyo]

Female one-top: salad, dressing on the side; skinless, boneless chicken breast; some huge chocolate dessert or other; perhaps two glasses of white wine.

[macrosan]

Female one-top: salad, dressing on the side; skinless, boneless chicken breast; some huge chocolate dessert or other; perhaps two glasses of white wine.

Oh LOL, is that it ? It's to do with what you order

In that case, Jinnysan, do you know what a male one-top is ? I only ask because I need to know.

[tommy]

I always find it difficult when I'm dining alone to get the wine I want because they tend not to serve them by the glass or in half-bottles.

is drinking 4 glasses of wine throughout a 1.5 hour dinner excessive, generally speaking?

[Jinmyo]

Martinsan, a male one-top could order anything. But since there's no woman to impress, still probably not a huge spender.

tommy, that depends on the person. Some people get seriously smashed on a glass of wine. Some can put away two bottles and just feel pleasantly sleepy. Yelling "I rully love you guysh!" at the waitstaff probably means one should order coffee.

[lizziee]

Southern girl,

Thank you for the wonderful write-up. The egg caviar and the garlic soup with sauteed Frog Legs are definitely signature dishes that I could eat again and again.

"All in all a very impressive experience and I would look forward to going back with a group or at least one other person to be able to experience a bit broader overview."

By this, do you mean you would have been able to experience more dishes or felt more comfortable dining with someone else?

[Wilfrid]

Good to see Jean-Georges still seating solo diners. An example to other restaurants who are so up themselves it's unbelievable.

[CathyL]

Female one-top: salad, dressing on the side; skinless, boneless chicken breast; some huge chocolate dessert or other; perhaps two glasses of white wine.

The best one-top experiences I recall were in Paris; even young waiters took a paternal interest in feeding me well. The worst was a sushi bar in London, where I was the only woman - and the only gaijin - in the room. Sheesh.

[Matt Zito]

Martinsan, a male one-top could order anything. But since there's no woman to impress, still probably not a huge spender.

tommy, that depends on the person. Some people get seriously smashed on a glass of wine. Some can put away two bottles and just feel pleasantly sleepy. Yelling "I rully love you guysh!" at the waitstaff probably means one should order coffee.

I ate at March once with a friend and did the 5-course w/ wine pairings. I'm a pretty reasonably sized guy and was doing okay with 5 glasses of wine, but my 5'4" non-drinker friend was in a bit of a state by the end of the meal. I don't think there was any shouting at the waiters, but I do recall some extremely overenthusiastic raving about the food to our very friendly server when he happened to pass by and inquire about how the dessert was. I was just glad we didn't do the 7-course.

[Wilfrid]

Guess who did do the seven course? My difficulty was not so much remaining upright, but that the variety of wines and other beverages, and the order in which they were served, tended to confuse my palate. After whites and reds in the early stages of the meal, I remember a glass of sherry turning up with a rabbit dish, then a sake with something else, then back to the wines again. Each pairing was quite interesting, but the overall effect was a bit of a challenge to say the least.

I am also reminded of the sommelier at Peacock Alley, with whom I eventually fell out rather badly, telling me he wasn't allowed to pair wines with the seven course tasting menu. Idiot.

[vivin]

Thanx for the reports. It is great to see so many people who have gone to a restaurant that receives such diverse reviews as JG within a couple of weeks of each other (and had the same dishes, more or less).

So let me ask all of you who went recently (or in before) - Where would you rank JG among its competition (defined as those that charge 150+ per head for dinner).

I have been to JG four times and this last time was certainly the most enjoyable. However, I still rank it below other restaurants in the city in terms of pure yumminess of food. B+. Very imaginative cooking and nice atmosphere that is somewhat countered by lack of value. But I would go back in a few months (by then, hopefully, the tasting menu has changed).

[southern girl]

Cathy L, My waiter did the eye roll to his busser along with an under-the breath- "lovely"...It was very quiet in the restaurant at the time and I have very good hearing. I am positive he thought the comment was just between the two of them. It was not an unexpected reaction as I have had it before. I have always found "kiiling them with kindess" and just the fact that once I order they are, to say, the least, partiallly relieved. The curiosity about dish ingredients and preparations also draws them out of their shell.

Wilfrid, I am not sure if Jean George would have seated a one top...I had help from a generous eGulleteer who procured the reservation for me. Originally it was for two people, when I reconfirmed I informed them I would be a party of one...

Macrosan, I did not finish the bottle of wine...but with the glass of red probably did the equivilant of a bottle...over the space of 2+ hours. I would not have driven a car, but otherwise was fine. And Jinmyo got the "profile" perfectly. If I don't mind ordering a bottle and leaving some for the sommelier or waiter because in most restaurants the half bottle and glass selections are not up to the level of the full bottles offered. I would rather pay a bit more and leave some behind, than settle for something I really don't want.

Cabrales, the current price on the Signature menu and the seasonal menu is $118.

Lizziee, I would like to have sampled more of the dishes. The companionship and sharing would have been nice, but, I would never pass up an opportunity to experience a restaurant I want to try just because I am solo. Between my travel schedule and the fact that golfers don't like to "dress for dinner" (or sit for long meals for the most part...there are some foodies on TOUR, but, late dinner and early tee times don't mix!) I dine solo frequently.

[jordyn]

Wine pairings are a fun way to drink way more than usual for me. I've done the seven course wine pairing at March (six glasses), but more recently I took in the seven course tasting menu with wine pairings at Patria, which ended up being eight glasses (one for each course plus champagne to start). I'm not much of a drinker, so the second half of that meal is a bit of a blur...

[Wilfrid]

Thanks for the clarification, Southern Girl. I have been seated as a solo-diner at Jean-Georges in the past, and I hope they continue to make tables available to "one-tops". I find the waitstaff usually relax when I ask for a glass of champagne as a prelude to further negotiations.

[cabrales]

I have been to JG four times and this last time was certainly the most enjoyable. However, I still rank it below other restaurants in the city in terms of pure yumminess of food.

vivin -- Your assessment of JG would be close to my subjective view on the place. Note I have not visited during the past two years.

[Mao]

Ditto me on Vivin and Cabrales opinion.

[markabauman]

We will be visiting NYC in a couple of months and are planning to dine for the first time at Jean-Georges. Scheduling may dictate having lunch rather than dinner this time. Could someone comment on lunch there versus dinner? Thanks

[Jinmyo]

I find the waitstaff usually relax when I ask for a glass of champagne as a prelude to further negotiations.

Any one-top, male or female can change the expectations the waitstaff have with a few questions or ordering something conspiciously more than just okay, ala Wilfrid.

[wingding]

I was taken to a belated birthday dinner at JG a few days ago,and chose the summer tasting menu.Two dishes in particular,very summery and light,were well worth remembering;peekytoe crab with watermelon sorbet,wasabi,and a basil sauce...roasted corn ravioli,with lots of tiny tomatoes,more basil,more corn.They sent us all of the desserts,which was pretty crazy-4 different themes;apricot,cherry,exotic fruits,and chocolate[i think]They were all beautifully made and crafted,but I was disappointed that the chef didn't make more use of the best fresh fruits of the summer.The room and the view are unique,and it was a lovely evening.

[yvonne johnson]

A couple of Sundays ago I had a fine dinner at Jean Georges (JG, Trump International Hotel, 1 Central Park West, @ 60th St, 212-299-3900). Our four friends enjoyed it tremendously too. Around eight years ago, g. and I had dinner in the main dining room, but this dinner, in the less formal room that includes the bar (the only part of the restaurant that is open on Sundays), was better than the former.

There appeared to be some direction in the tasting menu, moving from subtle to more intense flavors. (I think Steve P pointed out something similar in the Arpege thread that reminded me of the progression.) This is somewhat different to the usual intense appetizer followed by a duller main course and may point to some more thought on the chef's part.

The amuse was, as a whole, not my favorite presentation: cold sweet-corn soup in a something resembling an espresso cup and on the plate underneath, by the cup's side, a small portion of tuna tartar. I guess this amounted to two amuses presented simultaneously. Taken in isolation each one worked, but they did not complement each other that well.

1.Crab salad with tropical fruit placed on the plate as part of a threesome with a pile of cress (does JG like his cress); 2. Foie gras on ultra-thin toast and-- in between the two-- slivers of strawberries. To some the fruit was overabundant and a little squishy, to the majority the fruit worked well. But whatever the views on the amount of the berry this dish was a success as raw strawberry would not have given enough sweetness

to cut through the lovely fat; 3. A white fish (cod, I'm pretty certain) on green beans that had been cut thinly like angel hair pasta surrounded by little chunks of tomato and a gentle broth. 4. The highlight: Veal with a peanut foam and risotto. On paper this sounds a potential disaster, but it was the best course. There were some whole nuts in the dish to give a crunch and the creaminess of everything else together with the tender cut of meat was a real hit. 5. Desserts was nothing to write home about: a chocolate tasting spongein the middle of a plate with passion fruit at one end and ice cream at an other.

I thought the meal was very good to excellent and my husband thought that, given its overall consistency, it was better than the recent one we had at Gordon Ramsay (Royal Hospital Rd.). The service, I thought, needed polishing. For instance, the waiters bumped into people's arms at least twice bringing or removing plates. There were three crash, bang, broken glass episodes in the evening. That said, the sommelier was helpful and because the food was so good, the service didn't detract from the food.

Tasting menu $65 per person. A very good buy, I reckon.

We had bottles of Gewertraminer, a white Languedoc and a San Giovese--all good (oh, as well as a red sparkling red dessert wine (top of dessert wine list and cheap-ish).

A very good time and highly recommended. And JG wasn't even in the kitchen.

[Earlier discussion of JG and Nougatine room

http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...%20georges&st=0

]http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...l=jean+georges]

[Fat Guy]

Many thanks for the report. At some point -- scary that I can't remember this stuff anymore -- I wrote an article about the casual dining areas connected to upscale restaurants. The general point I made about the restaurant-within-a-restaurant formula was that the synergy gives such a place a big advantage over a standalone restaurant: You get access to the talents of a first-class chef (and pastry chef, which few smaller restaurants have), the main restaurant's entire wine cellar and, in some cases, a well trained service staff (this is especially true at a place like the Tavern at Gramercy Tavern). Of course you have great walk-in potential for spur-of-the-moment dining. And on occasion, one of these satellites can actually put out a better meal than the mother ship. Many people, for example, prefer the Bread Bar at Tabla to the upstairs dining room. Wollensky's grill is in many ways a more enjoyable place to eat than Smith & Wollensky. I've had some very good food at Nougatine as well, though also some very rude service. The food at Nougatine reminds me a bit of the food at Jo Jo, if that makes sense.

Nougatine does a nice breakfast, by the way.