Where to Eat in Point Reyes?

[rhiannonstone]

The boyfriend and I are spending a long weekend in the Point Reyes area, and need suggestions for places to eat. We've already got reservations for dinner at Manka's one night, and are planning on getting oysters from Hog Island and cheese and other goodies at Tomales Bay Foods for a picnic lunch the next day, but those are really the only places I know about that are supposed to be good (because those are the only places people mention when they talk about Point Reyes and food). There've got to be other places worth eating! I'm especially interested in recommendations for a really good breakfast, and at least one place that doesn't have "California Cuisine" stamped all over it (because CA Cuisine is fabulous, but variety is also good!).

[MaxH]

Not sure what's obvious and what's not; but there's a fair amount of eating slightly up and down the coast from Pt Reyes Station proper. Tony's, few miles up the coast (15-minute drive) is widely known and popular locally. Fresh seafood specials, right on the water. Old-fashioned friendly family-style place. Tomales Bay Foods in Reyes itself, mentioned already, has done semi-catered dinners, i.e, you pick up multiple courses, ready to serve, very reasonably priced. But call them in advance for current availability. Slightly south, in Olema, are a couple of places -- hotel restaurant, local café, etc., no direct experience to report though. You can also get fresh oysters in bulk, a very longtime local specialty: fans of them have been known to behave strangely, as if drawn by a spell, from other parts of the Bay Area. You have been warned.

Edited to add:

1. Forgot to mention, there've been some good Breakfasts at a local diner-like hangout in Reyes itself, I forget the name, and the Reyes-Olema file's elsewhere. Driving through town from the south, you go through the main business street (supermarket on right, bookstores and later tie-die places on left). I remember the breakfast restaurant as further in the same direction a couple blocks, on a side street to the left. Somebody can probably add more.

2. Usual approach to the region from points east and south is via Sir Francis Drake Blvd (which comes directly off both Hwy 101 and the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge road) through multiple Marin-County towns, liesurely but picturesque, finally through a forest preserve to the coastal road at Olema. Don't, unless you have a good reason or are traveling at an unusual hour, try to get there along the coast from the south (via Stinson Beach). The problem there is not the drive up from Stinson (which is pleasant) but getting to Stinson from further south. The small road winds up and down tortuously, one lane each way and often blind, and you will often find a huge tourist car with out-of-state plates -- a large dark-red Ford maybe, driver wearing a golf hat -- going ten miles an hour with infinite ease and serenity, and 30 impatient cars backed up behind hitting their brakes jerkily. It can cause delay, among other effects.

Edited August 14, 2006 by MaxH (log)

[ludja]

...

1.  Forgot to mention, there've been some good Breakfasts at a local diner-like hangout in Reyes itself, I forget the name, and the Reyes-Olema file's elsewhere.  Driving through town from the south, you go through the main business street (supermarket on right, bookstores and later tie-die places on left).  I remember the breakfast restaurant as further in the same direction a couple blocks, on a side street to the left.  Somebody can probably add more.

....

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I've heard a lot of people recommend the Pine Cone Cafe which is right in town. I think they are know for using fresh, seasonal ingredients.

The place I've eaten breakfast at several times is a pretty obvious choice right on the "main drag" of Pt. Reyes Station--The Station House Cafe. I've been happy with the meals there. Lunch or dinner may also be nice, but I've only eaten breakfast there. They always seem to have a bunch of homemade pies made as well as a homemade butterscotch pudding...

The little Mexican place on Main St. is actually quite nice. I looked up the name and they also say that they use Niman Ranch meats and make homemade tortillas..

Taqueria LaQuinta

11285 Hwy. One

P.O. Box 429

Point Reyes Station, CA 94956

(415) 663-8868 (415) 663-1925 fax

If you're up for a hearty meal after a day of hiking, you may enjoy

Vladimir's Czech Restaurant

12785 Sir Francis Drake Blvd.

Inverness, CA 94937

(415) 669-1021

Open since 1960. They have dishes like Roast duckling, Wienerschnitzel, Moravian cabbage roll, dumplings, klobasa, apple strudel. (closed Mondays) The place has a lot of atmosphere which includes Vladmir, the owner. It specializes in hearty Czech fare and they have nice beers on tap.

Has anyone eaten at Rancho Nicasio in the nearby little town of Nicasio?

http://www.ranchonicasio.com/index.htm

It's an incredibly charming little old western town set around a square with many old wooden buildings. We stopped by once when they were having a big outside bbq to go along with a live show and it looked like it could be pretty nice. I've wanted to check it out sometime.

Edited August 14, 2006 by ludja (log)

[kiliki]

The Pine Cone Cafe is fantastic. Terrific pancakes, REAL (the shredded kind) hash browns fried in butter, locally produced eggs and bacon....I miss it. If you sit outside the service can be iffy, and depending which way the wind is blowing, you'll smell the cows from the Giacomini's ranch. The Station House is fine for breakfast-they have a nice patio-but I like the PCD much better. The Station House is fine for other meals, too, but it doesn't blow me away.

Tony's is not good. They are really riding their reputation of being an old favorite in the area.

The Mexican place is allright but honestly, it too often made everyone a little sick (I used to work at the National Seashore). It's good, and we'd all routinely go there, but we'd often end up paying for it with, umm, intestinal trouble, later.

Last time I was at Tomales Bay Foods (Feb.) it was radically different than when I lived there. Gone were the lovely chocolat pot-de-cremes, homemade pickles, and terrific looking lunch stuff. It looked like they still did sandwiches, and there is still the Cowgirl Creamery (YUM) cheese stand and produce stand.

Toby's Feed Store has a better than you'd expect selection of drinks and locally made snacks.

The Inverness Store made good sandwiches, especially shrimp, but they have new owners as of this year and I'm not sure if things are still the same.

Most people love Bovine Bakery-I'm not a big fan of American style bakeries (muffins, etc) but if you are, check it out.

In Olema, the Olema Farmhouse isn't that great. I've heard the Inn is good but haven't eaten there.

And saving the best for last...the Marshall Store for bbq oysters. They are fantastic and I love the place-it's creaky, funky, order at the counter and get your own beer out of the cooler. Bring a sweater for sitting on the deck, the heat lamps always have issues. They have chowder and raw and rockefeller oysters, too.

Have a great weekend-it's such a fantastic place. If you go to the lighthouse, think of me-I used to live in one of those apartments (you'll walk right by them, a white dog named Jello will probably bark at you the whole time) there.

Edited August 14, 2006 by kiliki (log)

[ludja]

...

The Mexican place is allright but honestly, it too often made everyone a little sick (I used to work at the National Seashore). It's good, and we'd all routinely go there, but we'd often end up paying for it with, umm, intestinal trouble, later.

...

And saving the best for last...the Marshall Store for bbq oysters. They are fantastic and I love the place-it's creaky, funky, order at the counter and get your own beer out of the cooler. Bring a sweater for sitting on the deck, the heat lamps always have issues. They have chowder and raw and rockefeller oysters, too.

Have a great weekend-it's such a fantastic place. If you go to the lighthouse, think of me-I used to live in one of those apartments (you'll walk right by them, a white dog named Jello will probably bark at you the whole time) there.

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Thank you for the more in depth information on Taqueria LaQuinta... We've eaten there about three times with no incident but being a local rather than a "semi-local" surely has advantages in determining the consistency (health safety?) of a place.

I must go to the Marshall Store; not sure why I haven't been there yet. Thanks for the scoop on that and your other comments.

That is so cool that you lived and worked at the lighthouse. Everytime we go by ourselves or bring visitors there I always wonder who are the people living in those houses and what would it be like to live there. I have so many favorite natural spots in the greater Bay Area but Pt. Reyes might be my favorite. I've hiked most of the trails in the park and love going there at all times of the year.

[MaxH]

Tony's is not good. They are really riding their reputation of being an old favorite

Hi kiliki, can you be more specific about this criticism?

My friends and I have had pretty good luck there even in the last couple years. (I often get a seafood special over linguine; some prefer the fried foods.) Can't compare it back more than 10 years or so, but we still like to go back, and find the place a good addition to the other local offerings.

Haven't tried Vlad's Czech place, but seen it (near the national seashore). One friend looked in for a snack and she said that Vlad showed up in riding breeches, carrying a riding crop or sword or something (adding to his colorful image), and said something authoritative (like "we're closed") so she hasn't tried it either.

[MaxH]

Filling in some details from earlier:

... You can also get fresh oysters in bulk ... there've been some good Breakfasts at a local diner-like hangout in Reyes itself

That major raw seafood source is Tomales Bay Oysters. Been in business forever. Tip: bring a cooler to keep the mollusci cold, unless you are staying near and can promptly refrigerate.

The good breakfast place I know is indeed (literal name) Pine Cone Diner.

[kiliki]

Hi kiliki, can you be more specific about this criticism?

I based my Tony's opinion only on two visits (with friends, so we had a number of dishes), which may not be fair, but they committed some restaurant sins that made me not want to chance it further. For example, the lettuce in my salad had brown edges. YUCK. The seafood was greasy and the pasta overcooked. All of my co-workers raved about the place but they were all a little vague as to when and if they'd actually been there (that's why I made the reputation comment). But I'm glad you've had good experiences and I know we could have caught them at off times.

That is so cool that you lived and worked at the lighthouse.

There were some very cool things about it and some bad things (my apt. was mouse infested, heat-less and generally really gross-the NPS has no $$ to maintain employee housing. That's one reason I got to know the restaurants and delis so well-I was too grossed out by mice to cook at the apt.). I do feel very lucky that the one time I've been stationed in a park it was near such good food! I've made a number of research trips back since I left, and I will go way out of my way to eat a Pine Cone diner breakfast and Marshall Store oysters. The MS has very odd hours (I think they close at 4 on tuesdays, for example)-be sure to check these if you're making a special trip.

Edited August 14, 2006 by kiliki (log)

[eje]

Some Sonoma friends have been enthusiastic about Seaweed Cafe in Bodega Bay. I haven't been there yet, so can't vouch for it myself; but, it sounds interesting.

The Pine Cone Diner is great for breakfast and lunch.

I had dinner at the Station House once a few years ago and wasn't over impressed. I doubt I'd return unless I was staying in the region for an extended period.

[TarteTatin]

On day on our recent vacation from Philly, we drove from our Santa Rosa base- toward Bodega Bay and down route 1 to Point Reyes. This was on New Year's Eve Day. The cows are amazing! They're everywhere and just beautiful. I wonder if the ones that stand on the sides of hills have one leg shorter than the other.

The redwoods and water, passing by Hog Island Oyster house, etc.-all a very pretty drive.

We were headed to Johnson's Oyster House, now called Drake's, that we'd heard about -in Tomales Bay. As we drove out the other side of Point Reyes, we saw a big sign that said, "Butcher", and had to stop. This was the Marin Sun Farms- local organic butcher shop. Just amazing! There were signs about CSA pick up and all local meats and we were just in heaven. They had different cuts of meat too, not your typical cuts that one gets in the States. We ended up buying this amazingly gorgeous rib roast for the four of us for our New Year's Eve dinner. Absolutely some of the tastiest meat I've ever had! We bought numerous packages of their jerky to bring back for friends.

Continuing on to the Tomales Bay Park, we got to Drake's oyster farm. Walked in the door and there were many sizes of oysters, we bought 3 dozen smalls, which weren't that small, for $9.00 a dozen. For our appetizer that night. While we were there we had 4 each, shucked right there and I thought I'd gone mad. West coast oysters are SO much better than East coast. I know, I know, some of you might not agree...but I've had lots of different ones, including Chincoteague and Cape May salts and New Orleans and Canadian east coast. But every time I come to the west coast, the taste amazes me! Just preference, I guess. These looked like Belons. Out back of the shack there were the men working the production line, right there, bringing them in from the water and separating the sizes on the conveyer belt. A great place. We signed a petition to keep it open, because they want to close it down. I believe its the national park service?

Drove back into town and stumbled across the Pine Cone Diner. WOW. We loved this place! Sat at the counter with two very nice locals next to us, telling us what to order. They were also into local foods and the owner (I believe she was the owner) talked to us as well. I had a fried oyster salad over the best greens, avocado, feta, can't remember what else, just a beautiful salad. Mr. Tarte Tatin had the vegetarian chili (he figured with all the meat we were eating for dinner, he wanted to be good). WOW again. Very spicy, but truly not like any other chili we've ever had. After lunch, we walked across to the Cowgirl creamery, lovely local fresh cheeses....

What a great town.

[MaxH]

TT, thanks for the detailed follow-up.

... shucked right there and I thought I'd gone mad. West coast oysters are SO much better than East coast. I know, I know, some of you might not agree...but I've had lots of different ones, including Chincoteague and Cape May salts and New Orleans and Canadian east coast. But every time I come to the west coast, the taste amazes me! Just preference, I guess. These looked like Belons. ...

That's interesting. I have to say as a local native, oysters in this region never had the prominence they do elsewhere. I've probably eaten more of them around New Orleans for instance (where they're offered everywhere, in restaurants from lavish to illegal) despite spending far less time there. They are enjoyed and served in the Bay Area too, but crab and (formerly, but then even more so) abalone overshadowed them, or that's my impression.

(When the subject has come up in discussion, one or two local friends admitted being underground fresh-oyster addicts, driving at dawn for first crack at catches of particular species in Marin County, the region of this thread. But it doesn't seem to be as common as in some other coasts.)