Chapter One Restaurant, Dublin

[Indy67]

We just got home from two weeks in Ireland. We divided our time almost equally among Dublin, Ennis, and Kilkenny. This is the first of three reports on our experiences eating at Chapter One and Shanahan's. (If I have time -- and I really have a sizable stack of laundry and mail to deal with-- I'll write about Ely's Wine Bar and a couple of other places where we ate.)

Chapter One

Executive Summary: Delicious food. All dishes were extremely well executed and appealingly plated. Gracious welcome. Attentive but not intrusive service. Attractive surroundings.

Detailed version: The evening began with festivities even before we got to the restaurant. I'm a great fan of contemporary art. Barry Flanagan, a British sculptor who is famous for his sculptures of hares, will be having a show at the Irish Museum of Modern Art opening June 28. The median strip on O'Connell Street north of the Liffey has become an ad hoc sculpture garden for Flanagan sculptures in conjunction with the museum show. As we cruised to the restaurant, we were delighted by the sight Flanagan's whimsical sculptures.

The restaurant is lovely with a sleek, modern look. The upholstery on the seating is understated to keep the visual focus on the stone walls. I don't know if the stone is original to the Jameson family's time in the building or an interior designer's addition. In spite of the stone walls, the noise level in the restaurant was not a problem, although there were outbursts from a large group celebrating a milestone anniversary.

We ordered the tasting menu: six mini-courses. A tasting menu often involves no choice; however, I asked if we could substitute a different dessert and they agreed happily. (The original selection was a chocolate and banana concoction.) Empowered, my husband asked about substituting a different meat dish for the Spring Meat Pie. This time the answer was no with the explanation that the chef had planned the progression of tastes and our tinkering would upset the balance. As you'll read below, the progression of tastes involved a surprising amount of repetition.

First course: Lobster and crab cocktail with avocado and sun-dried tomato.

Second course: Pithivier (puff pastry) filled with griolles (wild mushrooms) with asparagus garnish.

Third course: Ballantine of foie gras with peach wedges

Fourth course: John Dory with griolles and asparagus

Fifth course: Spring Meat Pie (puff pastry filled with chunks of squab, lamb, chicken, and veal) with Bernaise sauce and peas

Dessert: Lemon creme caramel with mango and mango sorbet (husband)

Custard tart with fresh strawberries and creme fraiche ice

cream (me)

Wine: We shared a bottle of wine, a Sancerre. The sommelier first recommended a pinot gris from Alsace. When we expressed some concern about it being too sweet for our taste, he assured us it was rich and fruity but not sweet. Since that wine was sold by the glass, he brought us a bit to taste. Whoops! It was appallingly sweet. I've never had a sommelier's recommendation be so far off. My husband's next move surprised me. He informed the sommelier that he wanted a Sancerre and to please recommend one that would work with our meal. This is contrary to our practice of letting the sommelier make an independent recommendation with only price to guide him/her. Obviously, the sommelier had lost standing as far as my husband was concerned.

The fish preparation that was served was not the one described on the menu. That version featured John Dory with mussels in a ginger vinaigrette. Since we had gotten griolles in the second course, I think the menu dish would have been better choice. In addition, I think the menu should not have included two dishes with puff pastry or asparagus. Now the food was masterfully prepared and tasted delicious. However, the purpose of a tasting menu is to see the chef's range of talent. Serving dishes with repeated ingredients seems to defeat some of that purpose.

Based on our experience, is Chapter One really the best restaurant in Dublin? I'd be hard-pressed to give Chapter One the nod over Shanahan's. (We did not eat at Patrick Gilbaud's restaurant.) The issue with duplication on the tasting menu was a negative for me even though each dish was really, really excellent. The interesting combinations in each dish was a positive for me. Perhaps I'm most influenced by the fact that as suberb an experience as we had at Chapter One, the evening met our expectations. The evening at Shanahan's exceeded expectations.

Indy 67

[Corinna Dunne]

Thanks for the report Indy67. We are long over due a Chapter One, Dublin, thread (not to be confused with the London restaurant).

I've eaten in Chapter One many times (although not recently), but I've never had the tasting menu. I agree with you. It does sound like there is a bit of repetition on it, and it seems to me that it doesn't fully capitalise on what makes Chapter One so special. For me, the great thing about Chapter One is their focus on the fresh, local and seasonal matrix; and their charcuterie starter (for about €18), served from a trolley at the side of the table, is one of the best show cases you’ll find for Irish produce. In summer and autumn, this is replaced with a “fish plate” trolley service. The last time I was there, this included a fricassee of mussels with peas and broad beans topped with a garlic crumb; sublime smoked salmon with the lightest of salmon mousses (practically a foam, although this would not be their thing); a chunky leek and smoked haddock boudin; seared tuna with lime and a wonderfully light brandade with a black olive oil.

There was also a particularly good terrine of black leg chicken with foie gras starter, which had good: gutsy bits of chicken layered with generous swathes of creamy foie gras, all held together very nicely on a beetroot puree. And a starter of pea and ricotta ravioli in a girolle cream was outstanding. The pasta was practically translucent, the sweet green of the peas gleamed through, and the girolle sauce worked perfectly.

For our main course, we had John Dory, served off the bone on a leek puree; guinea fowl on a delicately sweet onion puree with a gutsy bacon boudin; roast duck breast with buttered cabbage and white turnip with a very clever roast apple and walnut crumble; and a particularly good breaded loin of veal, with pancetta and sautéed girolles in a herb sauce

Our desserts on that occasion were nice enough, but not up to the standard of the savoury courses. Their cheese board was good too, but I think they are missing a trick by not serving this from the trolley and allowing diners to choose what they want. From my experience, Les Freres Jacques on Dame St (celebrating their 20th birthday this year), has the best cheese board in Dublin. (Their fixed price table d’hote menu is great value, but the ALC can add up to quite a bit and the food is better at Chapter One).

And it sounds like you had a particularly bad experience with the sommelier, which is unfortunate, and I think probably untypical. We generally opt for wines at punter rather than expense account level, and unlike some restaurants around town (although Les Freres Jacques is also an exception on this); Chapter One has a pretty good selection of house wines. We had a very good Alsace Riesling for around €23 and followed with a Crozes Hermitage for about €33. And the port by the glass was a particularly generous pour.

To answer your question, “Is Chapter One the best restaurant in Dublin?”… it is certainly not. But it is a very good restaurant and is considered by many to be the best value in Dublin.

It sounds like your experience at Shanahan’s was much better, so I’m really looking forward to your report. I’ve never been, but know plenty of expense account people who have enjoyed it, but would be reluctant to cough up the hefty prices for the legendary steaks out of their own pockets. As there is no existing thread, perhaps you could start one?

Note:

There are a few pictures of Chapter One food on the Taste of Dublin thread.

[Indy67]

"From my experience, Les Freres Jacques on Dame St (celebrating their 20th birthday this year), has the best cheese board in Dublin."

One of the food disappointments of our trip to Ireland was the dearth of cheese plates as lunch options. I could have happily eaten an assortment of cheese, brown bread, and salad daily. Admittedly, we didn't make a point of planning places to eat lunch, preferring to keep our emphasis on seeing the sights so my wished-for lunch might have exisited.

However, the place where we ate lunch in Thomastown -- the Cafe at the Watergarden -- struck me as restaurant that should have had a cheese plate given the nature of its menu and its devotion to quality ingredients. A local woman recommended the cafe when we discovered Hudson's didn't serve lunch. Still, our soup and sandwich was delicious and we got the added bonus of a charming glimpse of town life. Everyone knew everyone in the restaurant so hugs and cross-table conversation was constant. One woman paying her bill complimented the cashier on the chicken salad plate. The cashier replied, "Elaine made the marinade." Obviously, that was all that needed to be said!

In a pub in Kilkenny, I asked if they could put together a cheese plate for lunch. No problem. They served me slices of Brie, really lovely cheddar, and mozzarella with brown bread. Not quite the assortment of Irish cheese of my dreams. They did serve the cheese with something I would call chutney, but which they called salsa. Their salsa was fantastic, and I don't know why I didn't ask if the chef would

share the recipe.

"It sounds like your experience at Shanahan’s was much better, so I’m really looking forward to your report. I’ve never been, but know plenty of expense account people who have enjoyed it, but would be reluctant to cough up the hefty prices for the legendary steaks out of their own pockets. As there is no existing thread, perhaps you could start one?"

I will. For now, I'll simply say that my enthusiasm for Shananhan's stems from the fact that my husband shared some of his rib eye steak. It was, quite simply, the best steak I have ever eaten. Details to follow.

Indy 67

[Corinna Dunne]

One of the food disappointments of our trip to Ireland was the dearth of cheese plates as lunch options. I could have happily eaten an assortment of cheese, brown bread, and salad daily.

←

This is a really good point. Unfortunately, we have a long way to go before pubs and small establishments get this message. There is some wonderful artisan produce in Ireland, and I can't believe that there is not a stronger push on regionality. Since you mention Kilkenny... Lavistown cheese and sausages (made by my friend's mother) are a great example of local Kilkenny produce, and I think you would have really enjoyed them.

I do, however, think that we are turning the corner and things are starting to improve.

[brr]

Congratulations Chapter One on attaining a Michelin star!

[Corinna Dunne]

Yes... congratulations. It's been a long time coming.

Some more accolades on the Michelin 2007 thread here

[Corinna Dunne]

Chapter One has scooped a few more awards. This time it’s the Restaurant Association:

Dublin restaurant Chapter One has been voted the best restaurant in Ireland for the second year running by the Restaurant Association of Ireland.

And the Best Chef Award:

Chapter One, the only northside Dublin restaurant with a Michelin star, also took the award for best chef for its head chef Ross Lewis.

Raymond McArdle of The Restaurant @ Nuremore, Co Monaghan, and Dylan McGrath of Mint Restaurant, Dublin, were also nominated in this category.

So that should settle things in the kitchen a bit. Garrett Byrne, who has been cheffing there for the past two years or so, got a Food & Wine Best Chef award last year and there were feathers ruffled at the award not going to the chef proprietor, which would be more usual.

I think Dylan McGrath is a much better chef than Ross Lewis, not because his food is avant garde or different, just because he is better. For a start... just compare the bread in each restaurant, and move on from there (click here for the thread on Mint).

[minichef]

I ate in Chapter One a couple of weeks ago. It was Friday the 13th, and my birthday, and I had no reservation. So I crossed my fingers, and tried my luck, and it was in, and voila, birthday dinner a deux. I was bowled over by the great service, to say nothing of the food, which was as always, very good, and reasonably priced, although several things stuck in my mind.

1) When i was coming back from the loo, I heard a fairly loud and irate voice saying;

'...and that ould blond bag on table four won't fecking stop moaning... mouwldy ould bitch...' It was the manager, talking to one of the waiters, who had the grace to smile in my direction. To be honest I thought this was hilarious, I work in a high end Dublin restaurant and the language and comments that go on there far outweigh the comment overheard here. It did'nt stop the service being absolutely and utterly charming, including when....

2) as the beautiful and very professional waitress was making Irish coffees from a gueridon for the next table, we nipped out for a cigarette. Monents later the guy from the next table appears out with a face like thunder... 'jaysus,' he said, 'it's smokier in there than it is out here.... that eejit waitress is after setting the place alight'. We were rather shocked at how mean he was being about, and sure enough, when we went back in the lovely waitress was beginning her Irish coffees once more, caramelising the sugar, flambeeing the whisky, and looking very crestfallen. I thought it was all rather amusing, having done far worse things during service myself, and anyway, she had been perfectly sweet to us, and nothing less than utterly professional. Anyone can make a mistake, even in Chapter One.

Having said all that, please don't let any of what I said put you off... customers will invariably get bitched about if they set foot in any restaurant, and what do we know... the ould bag probably deserved that comment and worse! (Hee hee)

(edit: typo)

Edited May 17, 2007 by minichef (log)