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This week in wine


Florida Jim

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1999 J.J. Prum, Riesling Spätlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr(AP12 00):

It has taken seven years for the sulpher to blow off but it finally has leaving a fairly straightforward, sweet riesling that wasn’t worth the wait. Adequate with Thai food but little more and a touch too confected even with the spicy stuff.

$36 on release; I’d not buy it again even at half the price.

2004 Terres Dorées (Brun), Fleurie:

Stony, raspberry/strawberry, face powder aromatics; on the palate it’s filled with bright, crunchy fruit with herb/mineral nuance, good depth and a solid dose of joy; yummy now. So impressive, that I opened another bottle later in the week and it was every bit as tasty albeit showing a little younger. Very happy juice.

About $19, on release; I’d buy this again at that price and then some.

1998 Salomon, Grüner Veltliner Reserve:

This bottle showed slight oxidation but is still a full flavored, ripe and balanced wine with a layered flavor profile and a medium length finish. Probably time to drink them.

About $9, on sale; I have more and if the next one shows the same oxidation, I would not buy it again at that price; if it’s clean, I definitely would.

1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Cuvée Mystére:

I am told this is a blend of under-ripe and over-ripe grapes and, as much as I applaud the “use every part of the buffalo” mentality, it is ultimately unsuccessful. Both prune and acrid green elements obscure the fruit and any sense of place is completely lost. DNPIM.

$30 on release and I would not buy it at any price.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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