Starker's Reserve - KC

[moosnsqrl]

The last time I ate at Starker's Reserve there was still a "Harry Starker's." My memory's not all that great but that was quite some time ago. I don't think it will take me that long to return unless something goes terribly wrong. The choices on the Plaza are few these days, if you want a unique dining experience. And, since Plaza gift cards seem to be holding strong as the favorite corporate gift, we find ourselves all too often choosing between the lesser of several evils. I'm happy to have rediscovered fine dining where "the card" (lower case) is accepted.

I will post in greater detail when I've managed to clear the cobwebs from my memory (it was only a few days ago but I've been up to my ears in naan, raita, and other Indian delights since and have to cleanse my palate before I can do it justice).

I will start the ball rolling with the first amuse: a house-made potato chip topped with beautiful, tiny coral roe and a very mild horseradish (the name of which sounded like Edmund Hillary's Sherpa comrade, Mr. Norgay. Tenzing? Can I get an assist here?)

[jgm]

I dined with Judy and Katie Nell, and we had a wonderful time. My trip to KC from Wichita was expressly for the purpose of having dinner with my new friends, and was one of the best things I've done in ages. My co-workers still are amazed that I would drive to Kansas City for dinner. A plus: I got to meet several other eGulleters, also.

The second amuse was, if I remember correctly, a raw almond and grape gazpacho. Just wonderful. I wish I could add some other comments here, but this was the first time I've had this type of gazpacho, so I have no comparisons. But I really, really enjoyed it.

I've lived a rather sheltered-from-fine-food life, and this trip was also a deliberate move to broaden my horizons and enjoy some foods I've never had before. Both of the amuses fit in to those plans. I've seen recipes for that type of gazpacho, and am now enthusiastically planning to settle on one and try it in my own kitchen.

I opted for a salad instead of an appetizer, and ordered the leaf lettuce salad with Granny Smith apples, Maytag cheese, spiced walnuts and Pommery Mustard vinaigrette. The viniagrette beautifully tied the ingredients together. The salad was excellent.

My entree was a roasted giant Hawaiian prawn stuffed with shellfish mousseline, Asian braised pork belly, bok choy, napa cabbage, and prawn broth. I confess: it was the pork belly that hooked me, and I was not disappointed. And I've never had braised bok choy as a side dish; in fact, it's never occurred to me to consider it as anything but an ingredient in stir fries and traditional Asian cooking. It was absolutely delicious, and has me excited and thinking about various pairings with main dishes that I might use.

I'd venture into dessert territory, but it's someone else's turn now, and we have a salad, an appetizer, and two other entrees to discuss. Hint: After tasting that dessert, if I wasn't already married and probably old enough to be his mother, I would have had to ask Chef John to marry me.

[joiei]

Hi jgm, I enjoyed meeting up with you guys at Bluestem after your dinner. KC is turning into a pretty decent food town. I will wander over to Wichita some time this summer for a little exploration.

[moosnsqrl]

Thanks, I was afraid I was going to have to do this alone and, as we were chatting and I did not take notes, my details are sketchy.

I opted for crab cakes as a bridge between the amuses and the main event. I don't often order crab cakes these days, having had too many bad experiences ranging from disappointment to illness. My gold standard for them is not anywhere near an ocean, rather that notable seafood center, Chicago IL. Susie Crofton (Crofton on Wells) is the autueur and I can't walk down that street without involuntarily salivating. But I digress. Chef McClure's were thoroughly enjoyable and I'm really glad to know, when the craving strikes, I can drive fewer than 7 hours and indulge. His version have a delightful texture, neither too dense nor too crumbly, yet I didn't detect any significant presence of filler. Apart from basic freshness and quality of crabmeat, that is my single highest criteria and the cause of failure (IMHO) more often than not. I may have to sneak into the kitchen to observe how the miracle occurs. The cakes were served over a salsa fresca with either creme fraiche or crema (the slightly more-liquid Mexican cousin), with some cress. A brilliant and welcome alternative to the more cloying (and more common) sauces resembling a marriage of tartar and thousand-island dressing.

[moosnsqrl]

Hi jgm,  I enjoyed meeting up with you guys at Bluestem after your dinner.  KC is turning into a pretty decent food town.  I will wander over to Wichita some time this summer for a little exploration.

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[ulterior epicure]

...after we were forcibly fed snickerdoodles and ice creams

[joiei]

Did I mention anything about a second dessert, noooooo. A little after dinner drink, maybe. Some convivial conversation with Chef and a little rest after collecting my own Ultimate Collection. PLus the fact that I had to recover for the 8 course dinner I had at Kokoa Chocolatier the next night was about all I could do. The desset at Kokoa was a warm chocolate pudding which was the best thing made of chocolate I have put into my mouth in several years. Dark, dark and bittersweet with the creamy texture of a baked pudding that wasn't over sweet. u.e., when you come this way, let me hook you up with Stephen Howard at his place, he is a chocolate genius.

[ulterior epicure]

... it's really okay Judy... I totally understand. This coming from a man who has, on occasion, been known to finish off every dessert - on the menu.

joiei - post about Kokoa Chocolatier under a different thread and I'll pick you up over there...

u.e.

[Big Country]

I dined with Judy and Katie Nell, and we had a wonderful time.  My trip to KC from Wichita was expressly for the purpose of having dinner with my new friends, and was one of the best things I've done in ages.  My co-workers still are amazed that I would drive to Kansas City for dinner.  A plus:  I got to meet several other eGulleters, also.

The second amuse was, if I remember correctly, a raw almond and grape gazpacho.  Just wonderful.  I wish I could add some other comments here, but this was the first time I've had this type of gazpacho, so I have no comparisons.  But I really, really enjoyed it. 

I've lived a rather sheltered-from-fine-food life, and this trip was also a deliberate move to broaden my horizons and enjoy some foods I've never had before.  Both of the amuses fit in to those plans.  I've seen recipes for that type of gazpacho, and am now enthusiastically planning to settle on one and try it in my own kitchen.

I opted for a salad instead of an appetizer, and ordered the leaf lettuce salad with Granny Smith apples, Maytag cheese, spiced walnuts and Pommery Mustard vinaigrette.    The viniagrette beautifully tied the ingredients together.  The salad was  excellent. 

My entree was a roasted giant Hawaiian prawn stuffed with shellfish mousseline, Asian braised pork belly, bok choy, napa cabbage, and prawn broth.  I confess:  it was the pork belly that hooked me, and I was not disappointed.  And I've never had braised bok choy as a side dish; in fact, it's never occurred to me to consider it as anything but an ingredient in stir fries and traditional Asian cooking.  It was absolutely delicious, and has me excited and thinking about various pairings with main dishes that I might use. 

I'd venture into dessert territory, but it's someone else's turn now, and we have a salad, an appetizer, and two other entrees to discuss.  Hint:  After tasting that dessert, if I wasn't already married and probably old enough to be his mother, I would have had to ask Chef John to marry me. 

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Your to sweet.

[Big Country]

Hi jgm,  I enjoyed meeting up with you guys at Bluestem after your dinner.  KC is turning into a pretty decent food town.  I will wander over to Wichita some time this summer for a little exploration.

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I thought we had all agreed that it wasn't necessary to mention we went out for a second dessert after we were forcibly fed snickerdoodles and ice creams I won't need anything sweet for roughly six months.

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Sorry no one leave with out some ice cream and/or cookies if I am in the dining room

[ulterior epicure]

Sorry no one leave with out some ice cream and/or cookies if I am in the dining room  

What's there to be sorry about? That sounds like a fine set-up! I wish all restaurants had that policy!

u.e.

[Big Country]

Sorry no one leave with out some ice cream and/or cookies if I am in the dining room  

What's there to be sorry about? That sounds like a fine set-up! I wish all restaurants had that policy!

u.e.

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The hardest thing as a Chef is to get the food you want into your guests mouth. Now I love all of the dishes on my menu but, just like different song on a great jazz album I like some better than others. so if they don't order it I give it to them. Even if it is some cookie to go that they can have in the morning with coffee.

[ulterior epicure]

Sorry no one leave with out some ice cream and/or cookies if I am in the dining room  

What's there to be sorry about? That sounds like a fine set-up! I wish all restaurants had that policy!

u.e.

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The hardest thing as a Chef is to get the food you want into your guests mouth. Now I love all of the dishes on my menu but, just like different song on a great jazz album I like some better than others. so if they don't order it I give it to them. Even if it is some cookie to go that they can have in the morning with coffee.

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Well, you certainly won't have a hard time gettin' snickerdoodle in my mouth... and I'll certainly have it with coffee the mornin' after too!

u.e.

[moosnsqrl]

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The hardest thing as a Chef is to get the food you want into your guests mouth.  Now I love all of the dishes on my menu but, just like different song on a great jazz album I like some better than others.    so if they don't order it I give it to them.  Even if it is some cookie to go that they can have in the morning with coffee.

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The hardest thing as a consumer of fine foods is having an appetite (and by that I mean capacity AND financial) to try everything you want to try. I know fine restaurants can't give it away and survive (but wouldn't that be great?) but I am always willing to "donate" what my allowance allows and pleased if I get some "gravy," because I am a glutton for punishment.

Edited to fix quote

Edited June 5, 2006 by moosnsqrl (log)

[MarketStEl]

The hardest thing as a Chef is to get the food you want into your guests mouth.  Now I love all of the dishes on my menu but, just like different song on a great jazz album I like some better than others.    so if they don't order it I give it to them.  Even if it is some cookie to go that they can have in the morning with coffee.

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Speaking of jazz, is that still on the menu as well?

I have this vague recollection of having gone to Starker's when I brought my partner to KC to "meet the folks" back in 1984. The place was on the second floor of the building housing the Plaza Theatre, Nichols Road side.

There was a fairly decent combo performing--and I ran into a neighbor girl who lived across from my Grandma's house (5400 block of Agnes) and with whom I played all the time growing up, who was also there that night with her boyfriend.

[Katie Nell]

Okay, okay, my fans are asking for me...

I had a salad like jgm except I went for the Baby Arugula and Watercress Salad with fresh Goatsbeard Farms Cheese, Missouri Strawberries, Pistachios, and Balsamic Vinaigrette (okay, I admit it, I consulted the website for the description!) For my main I had the Sauteed Wild Salmon with Potato Puree, Morel Mushrooms, Wild French Asparagus, and Foie Gras Cabernet Sauce... Whew! It was my first for a few things... my first pork belly (thanks jgm!,) my first morel, my first wild asparagus, and I had thought it was my first taste of foie gras, but the bf reminded me that I had indeed had it once before! So, it was a fantastic night for me! I was a little scared of the pork belly, because I'm a little timid when it comes to meat textures, but it truly was amazing... such an intensity of flavors! I really loved the wild asparagus and the sauce on my salmon was to die for! The salmon itself was really lovely as well!

And then on to my favorite part, the dessert, of course! (u.e. I'll be glad to take the title of KC's resident sweet tooth!) John brought out his grandmother's snickerdoodles with a trio of ice creams... Tahitian Vanilla, Mexican Hot Chocolate, and my personal favorite, Brown Butter Banana! (It would not hurt my feelings at all, John, if you PM-ed the recipe for the Brown Butter Banana! ) And then, because I think John thought jgm was so cute , he brought out an extra scoop of Rum Raisin ice cream!

It was a wonderful evening and I can't wait to bring my bf back to try everything... I know he would have loved it too!

[MarketStEl]

I had a salad like jgm except I went for the Baby Arugula and Watercress Salad with fresh Goatsbeard Farms Cheese, Missouri Strawberries, Pistachios, and Balsamic Vinaigrette (okay, I admit it, I consulted the website for the description!)  For my main I had the Sauteed Wild Salmon with Potato Puree, Morel Mushrooms, Wild French Asparagus, and Foie Gras Cabernet Sauce... (emphasis added)

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Uh-oh.

[jgm]

Uh-oh?

[ronnie_suburban]

Uh-oh?

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Sandy was referring to the foie gras. No need to worry about that in KC . . . at least not yet.

=R=

[joiei]

Uh-oh?

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Sandy was referring to the foie gras. No need to worry about that in KC . . . at least not yet.

=R=

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Let's hope so. I need to get to Starkers on my next trip up.

[Big Country]

The hardest thing as a Chef is to get the food you want into your guests mouth.  Now I love all of the dishes on my menu but, just like different song on a great jazz album I like some better than others.     so if they don't order it I give it to them.  Even if it is some cookie to go that they can have in the morning with coffee.

←

Speaking of jazz, is that still on the menu as well?

I have this vague recollection of having gone to Starker's when I brought my partner to KC to "meet the folks" back in 1984. The place was on the second floor of the building housing the Plaza Theatre, Nichols Road side.

There was a fairly decent combo performing--and I ran into a neighbor girl who lived across from my Grandma's house (5400 block of Agnes) and with whom I played all the time growing up, who was also there that night with her boyfriend.

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We do not have live Jazz at Starker's currently. When the restaurant was down stairs and Bar/Lounge was upstairs they had live jazz nightly.

[Zeemanb]

Sandy was referring to the foie gras.  No need to worry about that in KC . . . at least not yet.

=R=

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I was worried that Lawrence, KS. would be the next to hop on the foie ban-dwagon, but they are currently embroiled in the fight to ban all cell phone use in cars. Hopefully this will buy us foie eaters some time..........

[MarketStEl]

We do not have live Jazz at Starker's currently.  When the restaurant was down stairs and Bar/Lounge was upstairs they had live jazz nightly.

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Sorry to hear that. I take it you no longer have the upstairs space.

There is a very good restaurant here in Center City Philadelphia called Zanzibar Blue that is also one of the city's premier jazz clubs, and it's all on one level. This is the place where the legends play when they swing through Philly. The jazz, however, is as big a draw as the food, if not bigger, and the stage is on the restaurant side of the house. The bar is separated from the restaurant by a glass partition, which lets you see the performers if you like. This is actually a very good arrangement, for it allows patrons who can't (or don't want to) swing the cover charge for a big act to experience it anyway for the price of drinks; the music is piped into the bar over the restaurant's speaker system. I heard Gato Barbieri perform in just this fashion back in March.

I don't know if the space you have now is configurable in this manner, or whether your restaurant patrons would be annoyed or not by the presence of the musicians. I only post this by way of offering an example of how great dining and great jazz can coexist in a single space.

[Big Country]

We do not have live Jazz at Starker's currently.  When the restaurant was down stairs and Bar/Lounge was upstairs they had live jazz nightly.

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Sorry to hear that. I take it you no longer have the upstairs space.

There is a very good restaurant here in Center City Philadelphia called Zanzibar Blue that is also one of the city's premier jazz clubs, and it's all on one level. This is the place where the legends play when they swing through Philly. The jazz, however, is as big a draw as the food, if not bigger, and the stage is on the restaurant side of the house. The bar is separated from the restaurant by a glass partition, which lets you see the performers if you like. This is actually a very good arrangement, for it allows patrons who can't (or don't want to) swing the cover charge for a big act to experience it anyway for the price of drinks; the music is piped into the bar over the restaurant's speaker system. I heard Gato Barbieri perform in just this fashion back in March.

I don't know if the space you have now is configurable in this manner, or whether your restaurant patrons would be annoyed or not by the presence of the musicians. I only post this by way of offering an example of how great dining and great jazz can coexist in a single space.

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We are on the second floor but on the other side of the building from where the bar/lounge was located. The private dining rooms are still in the same location. They were built in 1986, in '96/'97 Cliff (the owner) closed the downstairs and bar/lounge on the second story. He then remodeled and re opened the restaurant on the second story also. We now have a 40 seat restaurant and the private dining room that can hold up to 80. I have been here for a year and a half and love it. It has been a great experiance for me. I have worked under some great Chefs in my career and now I am able to work with man that has owned a restaurant on the Plaza for 35 years. He has been working down here for over 40 years. Cliff was on the opening staff of the Plaza III when it opened as a manager.

[moosnsqrl]

Bumping to call to your attention a special event at Starker's Reserve.

August 7 we'll be enjoying the Local Heirloom Vegetable Dinner, as interpreted by Chef John McClure. The format is 5 courses with wine pairings for a reasonable (assuming no plonk ) $75.

By then all of the really good stuff should be plentiful and who can't use a new idea or three for the glut of tomatoes, squash, etc. that we long for ~9 months of the year and then curse in August and September?

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