Eleven Madison Park

[DutchMuse]

Is anyone familiar with current BYOB policies. While I have read in the past that they were open to BYOB (with corkage of course), I just want to make sure that they are still open to it....

←

BYOB is $35/bottle up to 4 bottles. After that, you need to arrange it in advance with the sommelier (and pay a fee to have a special sommelier for the night) but no problem up to 4 bottles.

[BryanZ]

In my attempt to give Danny Meyer as much of my money as possible before the Christmas holiday I partook in the Gourmand menu at EMP last night, one night after a tasting menu at Gramercy Tavern. Needless to say, I've been eating well.

The current Gourmand menu looks like this.

This was unveiled only this week, so it's pretty new. I'd had some of these dishes before, having been recast using the same ingredients but different preparations or vice-versa.

Unfortunately, EMP is not the amazing value it once was. At $145 it is now unquestionably an expensive restaurant. All in, with two value-oriented (read: cheap, $55-$65) bottles of wine split between four diners and a cocktail each, it came to $245/person. My bank account felt this one. That minor concern aside, this was a most excellent meal.

I dined with three banker types who have been trying to distance themselves from the Taos and Bobby Vans and One If By Lands (seriously, I kid you not) of the world that their peers so enjoy. This was their first extended tasting menu, so it was a big deal for them. I think the amount of food and range of flavors that EMP serves on Gourmand was perhaps slightly overwhelming for my friends, but they thoroughly enjoyed their experience. While there were many, this-is-interestings, there were as many if not more this-is-AMAZINGs.

The meal went off pretty much without a hitch. Service was generally spot on, and the room felt more sedate than usual in spite of the holiday rush. Perhaps the restaurant is booking fewer turns per night, but a faint hum replaced the definite buzz of previous visits. Our captain was quite attentive and professional, and the sommelier very willing to work within my constraints with no attempts at upselling.

This marked the third time I've had the Fantasy of Eggs, so there's little to add there. It was not served hot, however (more barely warmed) and I'm not sure if this was on purpose or not. The first time I had this dish it was perfect, the second time the yolk was too firm, now I just wished for bit more warmth in this opening course. The heirloom beet dish involves two alginate s'fers of chevre and beet. Cool for those unfamiliar with the technique but this was one instance where I definitely preferred the old, more traditional version. Perhaps the weakest part of the meal was the cheese course. The cart is stocked with 11 selectionss and between the four of us we tried them all. While the cheeses were enjoyable and well-kept, they lacked breadth or many truly interesting, esoteric selections. I most enjoyed a cheese steeped in herbed olive oil.

Highlights of the meal included an incredibly light foie gras terrine with amazing brioche. The bread almost stole the show. Also, the turbot with crunchy celery and truffles was completely heady. Truffles made a another appearance in the signature poularde dish that two diners requested in place of the frog's legs. Gone however, is the sheet of impossibly thin skin found in a previous iteration of the dish. Instead, the truffles are tucked under the CSV breast rather than inserted into the meat. Still, this dish is a classic. Our main course of squab was perhaps the the surprise hit of the evening. This was certainly the best squab/pigeon I've ever had. It was unbelievably tender yet the skin was rendered thin and crisp. A beautiful plate, too.

The evening winded down with a great pre-dessert that included a range of citruses and a very light tarragon-vanilla parfait. The chocolate dessert was, perhaps expectedly, less successful. I very much enjoyed the lollipop mignardises served at the end of the meal. They were a little more memorable that the standard petits fours one usually receives.

I maintain that Chef Humm is serving up some of the most exciting and soulful food in the city. I actually wish he'd stay away from the overtly modern techniques, as they almost seem disingenuous and take away from his obviously masterful command of flavor and balance. With the improved service of this visit I'd hazard that this meal was on the four star level, though now with the prices to match.

[ulterior epicure]

I had a wonderful dinner at Eleven Madison Park not too long ago. We had the 11-course Gourmand Tasting menu.

You can read my entire review here. See all of the photos from this meal here.

Highlights included:

1. A new incarnation of the "crab roll," this time the crab salad contained lime and green apple and was rolled in avocado. It's accompanied by a swatch of tangy yogurt.

2. A new presentation of the Nova Scotia Lobster. I can't believe how perfectly cooked the lobster was despite the fact that the broth was served piping hot; the lobster seemed impervious to the heat at the table. Every bite, from start to finish, was equally as succulent. Maybe it was because it was so good I scarfed it down much faster than I realized. While I thought this course was wildly over-salted by itself, the wine pairing put it all in check. This was my favorite wine pairing of the meal (M. Sorrel Hermitage, Rhone Valley, France, 2004, a white Rhone).

3. Duck! Duck! Duck! The server presented the bird, with its plumage of lavender, table-side before whisking it away to be carved and plated. Although I have absolutely no reason to doubt them, I have a hard time believing that the presented bird was the same from which our portions were cut. I am always skeptical of Western preparations of whole duck; the Chinese really do have a knack for the quacker. But, here, the skin was crackling crisp, perfumed with lavender honey and spices (I recall getting a smoky hit of cumin), *and* the breast meat was moist and flavorful; there was just enough fat between the two layers for measured indulgence. How did they do that? I barely needed the rich veal demi glace that was presented. No less impressive was the square of duck confit (obviously prepared separately) topped with an equally crispy sheath of duck crackling. This, above the Cape Cod Baby Crab and the Nova Scotia Lobster, was my favorite course of the evening.

Other notes (forgive me if this is old news):

1. They have a cheese cart now. The selection is somewhat beyond pedestrian, but for the most part, the limited selections were common (Epoisses, Tomme de Berger, Monte Enebro, off the top of my head). It certainly is no match for the enthusiasm and range offered at Picholine, where I dined the following evening. But, this admitted cheese snob was certainly not disappointed; I was just thrilled to see them offering a cheese course.

2. Chef Humm is now in charge of the pastry department. The Vermont Quark Souffle is a must.

Many have said it; I have said it; and I’ll say it again: it’s absolutely absurd that Chef Humm doesn’t have a single Michelin star. Personally, I think he and his staff deserve two. That Humm achieved his first Michelin star when he was 24 (in Switzerland at Gasthaus zum Gupf) has nothing to do with it. Or, it has everything to do with it - he’s now had six more years to progress and excel.

For all the insight and “expertise” that the Michelin Guide Rouge has on the New York dining scene, the omission of Eleven Madison Park from its asterisked list indicates an near-fatal flaw and oversight in their evaluation process. I’ll refrain from making comparisons. Suffice it to say, considering some of the operations that the Michelin has awarded stars to, it’s preposterous that Eleven Madison Park has none. I hope they fix that this year.

Again, if you're up for reading a much more (too much?) detailed review, click here.

Edited June 17, 2008 by ulterior epicure (log)

[oakapple]

For all the insight and “expertise” that the Michelin Guide Rouge has on the New York dining scene, the omission of Eleven Madison Park from its asterisked list indicates an near-fatal flaw and oversight in their evaluation process.

←

I certainly agree that it's the most shocking of the omissions, but it seems every critic or guidebook commits a few howlers. The only one that doesn't is the one you've written yourself.

[chefboy24]

awesome review ue, your blog is always a pleasure to read. that duck is slammin'.

[tupac17616]

no peanuts in your pad thai? dude...

great review, as always!

[Ndy]

Excellent review ue. I enjoy the thoroughness, and always make sure to read everything regardless of how long. The details help to convey the nuances of the meal, which I'm guessing is your overall purpose. Needless to say, you write very well. Anxiously awaiting more!

[ulterior epicure]

Thanks chefboy24, tupac17616, and Ndy.

tupac17616 (where did you get that string of numbers, by the way?), no peanuts in my Pad Thai. No peanuts anywhere in my food.

[paulraphael]

I had a less stellar meal than U.E.'s last Sunday (and wrote a brief review on Yelp.com). His review adds to my suspicions: that we were there on an off night, and that the tasting menu is probably the way to go (we had the regular 3 course prix fixe). We really didn't love the large plates.

Edited June 19, 2008 by paulraphael (log)

[ulterior epicure]

That's a shame.

Which Sunday was this, specifically?

What dishes, particularly, did you have?

[tupac17616]

where did you get that string of numbers, by the way?

my cholesterol level after seeing all the pictures from your spandex week in NY

To keep this on topic, it seems like the kind of disappointment paulraphael had with the 3 course prix fixe as opposed to the tasting menu is something many folks (the majority of which did not order the duck as the main course) have mentioned since the beginning of Humm's tenure.

[oakapple]

To keep this on topic, it seems like the kind of disappointment paulraphael had with the 3 course prix fixe as opposed to the tasting menu is something many folks (the majority of which did not order the duck as the main course) have mentioned since the beginning of Humm's tenure.

←

It's also a chronic issue on prix-fixe-only menus. You're locked into a minimum of $82 for three courses. Forced to choose two from among fifteen savory courses on EMP's menu, there's a pretty good chance you won't land on the strongest ones. On the Gourmand menu, you're getting eleven courses, and even if three or four disappoint you, there are more opportunities for the kitchen to shine.

[ulterior epicure]

Forced to choose two from among fifteen savory courses on EMP's menu, there's a pretty good chance you won't land on the strongest ones.

If this true, then EMP is not as great as I estimate. In fact, it would be highly disconcerting. If the majority, or even a good half the choices are likely to disappoint, then I would go so far to say that such a restaurant is bad.

I've only had the Gourmand, and both times, I've had a blast.

On the Gourmand menu, you're getting eleven courses, and even if three or four disappoint you, there are more opportunities for the kitchen to shine.

←

From my limited experience, this has yet to happen, thankfully. I can't say I have been disappointed by a savory course. Actually, even the desserts are fine. But, certainly, there are some courses that are much likable or successful than others. Edited June 20, 2008 by ulterior epicure (log)

[oakapple]

Forced to choose two from among fifteen savory courses on EMP's menu, there's a pretty good chance you won't land on the strongest ones.

If this true, then EMP is not as great as I estimate. In fact, it would be highly disconcerting. If the majority, or even a good half the choices are likely to disappoint, then I would go so far to say that such a restaurant is bad.

Let me clarify that. It's not that that half the choices at EMP are disappointing. It's just that if there are fifteen of them, perhaps a couple are disappointing, another half-dozen are average, and then another half-dozen are great. (And by "disappointing" and "average," I am using those words in relation to the price point.)

On an $82 prix fixe menu, if you generously allot $20 to the dessert, then it means you've paid about $30 apiece for each of your savory courses, and there are pretty good odds that you chose at least one of the disappointing or average ones.

I've only had the Gourmand, and both times, I've had a blast.

I've been there only once during Chef Humm's tenure, and that's what I had, too. I was impressed, though I thought The Modern was a shade better. I think the Gourmand menu has been expanded since I had it.

On the Gourmand menu, you're getting eleven courses, and even if three or four disappoint you, there are more opportunities for the kitchen to shine.

←

From my limited experience, this has yet to happen, thankfully. I can't say I have been disappointed by a savory course. Actually, even the desserts are fine. But, certainly, there are some courses that are much likable or successful than others.

←

I wasn't saying that three or four of the Gourmand dishes are actually disappointing. It was more a general comment about long tasting menus: when there are eleven courses, you can tolerate some disappointments and still feel good about the meal overall. Edited June 20, 2008 by oakapple (log)

[ulterior epicure]

Eater reports that as of July 19, Eleven Madison Park will cease serving Saturday brunch and will no longer be open on Sundays.

[edo]

Eater reports that as of July 19, Eleven Madison Park will cease serving Saturday brunch and will no longer be open on Sundays.

←

Yeah, I just saw that and came to comment. I'm quite curious why they are closing on Sundays. Especially the last time I was there, the food was incredible, but the service was awful. Very very slow for everything. Bringing cocktail, menus, taking the wine order, taking regular orders, bringing the check. Really disappointing given how good the service is at all Meyer's other places, and how good it can be at EMP. My only speculations are that there was a large party in the private room that may have distracted resources, or possibly Sunday is a regular manager's night off and the sunday guy is not nearly as good???

[ulterior epicure]

Or, maybe there is a perception that restricted service hours = more respect, although clearly per se (and perhaps a few others I'm not thinking of) ruins that theory.

[oakapple]

Or, maybe there is a perception that restricted service hours = more respect, although clearly per se (and perhaps a few others I'm not thinking of) ruins that theory.

←

I doubt it. More likely, they're not seeing enough traffic to justify it.

[DutchMuse]

I wrote this email to Danny Meyer a couple of days ago and am posting it publically to share my experience:

Dear Danny

Twenty fours cannot go by without my telling you about how special last night's dinner was at Eleven Madison Park. You have on your hands one of the best restaurants in the world. I think the dinner last night rivaled my dinner a year ago at Troisgros (when Pierre graced us by joining us and introducing us to his son, Michel). Last night's food, wine and service is among the three best meals I've had in my life--the other two being Troisgros and Jamin. I've said it before, but I continue to find it reinforced--Daniel Humm is, in my mind, another Robuchon.

What a team you have put together--these folks just work magic! Look how beautiful the room looks--the flowers, the smiles on everyone's faces, the colors, the warmth in the attitudes of the staff, and the incredibly beautiful presentation of the dishes. Can you find more beautiful presentations in any restaurant in NY? Not in my book.

The FOH has evolved to now being perfection defined. A brief turn of the head would result in our Captain, Meghan, being right there. How are people omnipresent yet non-intrusive? And how does John Ragan manage to be everywhere at once, yet unhurried and relaxed, with a smile on his face, as he picked the perfect and interesting wines for our meal? And Will and his managers were as watchful, helpful, but obviously monitoring the floor the whole night, as people could be.

The food challenged and stimulated us.

The wine took the food to even greater heights.

The service made the whole thing come together.

The last time I was there (just a week prior) and last night, I noticed something I haven't seen before--tables enjoying their meals for multi-hours. I don't know, maybe as a restauranteur that isn't the best for profits, but as a serious foodie, it tells me the place is now filled with people who love the experience and are savoring it. No more of this in and out stuff....these people are seriously enjoying their experience.

My friend Mark (who, himself, is a serious foodie--he used to get a Christmas card every year from Jean-Claude Vrinat) in addition to being wowed by the food, commented "how do they create a perfet service of a Michelin 3 star restaurant in a restaurant much larger than most 3 star restaurants? They are doing it." And its true.

Even down to the wait staff and wait-staff assistants. One of the runners (my term; not sure what the proper title is for the people) who delivered our plates seemed to be so enjoying himself--he had a genuine (nothing forced) smile on his face every time he would come to the table. It was obvious he was interested in his job and his work. I said "you must have an interest in food and all this." "Oh, I do--I graduated from the Cornell school ..." he replied. We chatted a bit but he was so excited by his work--and this as a runner. Think how great he'll continue to be as he is promoted down the road. It just permeats the whole place and the whole staff.

You have every right to be proud of these folks--it has become the best of the best--but with warmth and a smile and no sense of smugness that would mar the experience. I'm already looking forward to my next visit.

Thank you again for putting all the pieces together and making it possible for us to enjoy this experience. We were on a major high when we left, and my friends and I who dined last night talked again today about how thrilled we were by the whole experience.

[tupac17616]

I wrote this email to Danny Meyer a couple of days ago and am posting it publically to share my experience [...]

Sweet serendipity to read something like this after having just gotten off the phone to make a reservation at EMP.

[Ochowie]

I wrote this email to Danny Meyer a couple of days ago and am posting it publically to share my experience [...]

Sweet serendipity to read something like this after having just gotten off the phone to make a reservation at EMP.

←

Same thing here. I kept meaning to get around to trying this restaurant and finally made a reservation today, came to read up on it here and found this review. I will report back but if it's half as good as Dutch said I'm in for a great dinner.

[Ochowie]

As I mentioned in previous post I would come back with my impressions of EMP. My reservation was yesterday and I was very impressed with the restaurant especially the with the service.

Due to a delay at work I was over an hour and fifteen minutes late for my reservation which caused my dinner partner to drop out. However, the host and hostess didn't miss a beat and were able to find me a seat.

Once seated I ordered a vesper as my cocktail which I enjoyed. Once I ordered the cocktail I was presented with the dinner menu and wine list. I ordered the three course menu with foie gras terrine and Suckling Pig. Since I was alone they offered me a sweet wine to pair with the foie gras which I thought was a unique choice. Also since they saw I was alone they brought out some of the house magazines for me to look through while I waited for my food.

The first thing that came out was the amuse bouche and although I can't remember them all I remember the anchovie tart and the rabbit to be very good. Also they brought out these little cheese puffs with fleur du sel on them that were excellent (I ate them so quickly that they brought out a second dish of them ). Along with the little amuses there was a gazpacho with summer lemon that was very interesting. My family pickles watermelon and the flavor of the tomato base with the watermelon reminded me of that taste.

Next came the foie gras which I thought was one of the best foie dishes I have had in the city (along with the lychee foie gras from Ko). I really enjoyed the creaminess and how it contrasted with the crispiness of the cherry brioche toast that came with it. The one disappointing aspect was the mousse that accompanied it (which the waiter suggested was a good entry into the dish) was a little bland. The recommended wine which was a Zwiegelt worked well with the dish in my opinion. I enjoyed a slight fig taste which is one of my favorite fruits.

The main course was the suckling pig, which I had read about in the reviews of this restaurant. I was impressed by how tender the meat was and also by how crispness of the skin. Getting both components of dish in the same bite provided for an awesome contrast.

For dessert I ordered the bing cherry and pistachio mille feuille with mascarpone ice cream. This wasn't a bad desert just not as exciting as the rest of the meal. Although I thought the mascarpone ice cream was delicious and I would love to order it individually.

Throughout the whole meal I was very impressed with the level of service. From the runners to the captains and the sommelier everyone working in the FOH was attentive and seemed happy to be working at this restaurant. I could tell that every member of the staff took pride in their work. Towards the end of the meal chef Daniel was stopping by the tables and chatting with the patrons. I was happy I could tell him how much I enjoyed the food and the experience at his restaurant. Overall I enjoyed my experience and will definitely be returning in the near future.

(Sorry if this review wasn't great I'm still kind of new to these boards and this is my first more in depth review).

Edited August 13, 2008 by Ochowie (log)

[Jesikka]

I ordered the three course menu with foie gras terrine and Suckling Pig.  Since I was alone they offered me a sweet wine to pair with the foie gras which I thought was a unique choice. 

Next came the foie gras which I thought was one of the best foie dishes I have had in the city (along with the lychee foie gras from Ko).  I really enjoyed the creaminess and how it contrasted with the crispiness of the cherry brioche toast that came with it.  The one disappointing aspect was the mousse that accompanied it (which the waiter suggested was a good entry into the dish) was a little bland.  The recommended wine which was a Zwiegelt worked well with the dish in my opinion.  I enjoyed a slight fig taste which is one of my favorite fruits.

(Sorry if this review wasn't great I'm still kind of new to these boards and this is my first more in depth review).

←

Thanks for the review. Do you mean that they gave you a free glass of wine because you were alone? A sweet wine is an extremely common pairing with foie gras- the most classic pairing of all is sauternes. How would you compare the foie gras to that at Jean Georges? Is it a torchon?

[Ochowie]

Thanks for the review.  Do you mean that they gave you a free glass of wine because you were alone?  A sweet wine is an extremely common pairing with foie gras- the most classic pairing of all is sauternes.  How would you compare the foie gras to that at Jean Georges?  Is it a torchon?

←

No. I didn't mean that they gave me a free glass. I just meant that because I was alone I was forced to order by the glass. Honestly I don't order foie gras too often and have not had it at Jean George. I did like it more than the seared foie gras at Daniel although they are pretty different. It wasn't a torchon rather more of a mousse.

[Jesikka]

Thanks for the review.  Do you mean that they gave you a free glass of wine because you were alone?  A sweet wine is an extremely common pairing with foie gras- the most classic pairing of all is sauternes.  How would you compare the foie gras to that at Jean Georges?  Is it a torchon?

←

No. I didn't mean that they gave me a free glass. I just meant that because I was alone I was forced to order by the glass. Honestly I don't order foie gras too often and have not had it at Jean George. I did like it more than the seared foie gras at Daniel although they are pretty different. It wasn't a torchon rather more of a mousse.

←

In that case you should go try the dish at Jean Georges. They've got it paired with strawberries and balsamic right now- very good. Also the best lunch deal in the city at two courses for $28. I'd be curious to hear your comparison afterwards if you go.