Copenhagen

[jakob nielsen]

Again, Jakob, thank you. When we have our final travel dates, I may post again with any gastronomic questions. I know, for instance, that I will be eager to know about the best pastry shops and cafes serving Danish cakes and pastries.

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No problem, I am sure some of the other guys will chip in as well.

Denmark, or more specifically Copenhagen, has enjoyed a gastronomic surge over the last 5 or so years, so there is plenty to pick from in almost any category.

[emsny]

Well, we have now booked our air tickets and will be in Copenhagen from 3 through 7 January, leaving for London on the 8th. Noma does indeed sound like someplace we must not miss and we shall certainly try to get a table there, but I'm looking for a few other things as well. Specifically, places that serve unreconstructed, traditional Danish dishes - it is okay if they specialize in one particular thing (herring, for instance), though a broader menu would be more useful for a short visit like this. Also, pastry shops/bakeries/cafes that serve high-quality Danish pastry; my only acquaintence with this school of pastry is through G. Wennberg's book, which I think dates back to the 1950s or 60s, and I look forward to trying it in its home town, so to speak. Finally, are there decent/interesting places open late? We are hoping to go to the Royal Danish Opera (if we can arrange tickets), and it would be nice to be able to find something good to eat after the show(s). Thanks, all.

[Poots]

The most famous bakery that i know of is La Glace which is located in the middle of Stroget the walking street. It's website is: La Glace

One of it's more interesting specialities is Sports Cake...don't ask me why it's called that because i have no idea(although i just found out on their website). They even have pictures of their cakes, hmmm:Cakes

I'm not a big consumer of traditional danish food(other than my daily lunch at work) so i can't help you there. Two useful sites are the Press guide at Wonderful Copenhagen Press Releases

and AOK which has restaurant listings and other tourism info.

Looking at the opera's website Opera

you'll get out of the opera sometime after 10. I don't know for sure if they serve food that late but their hours show them open til 2 on the weekends is Cafe Quote. It's in Kongens Nytorv and a pretty good place. Cafe Quote Website

-Brian

Edited October 19, 2006 by Poots (log)

[jakob nielsen]

I am not much of a cake person, but La Glace is a copenhagen classic.

I personally prefer the mini-chain Emmerys. Their cakes (and bread!) are in my opinion better, but the stores lack the charm that La Glace has.

There is an Emmerys at Østerbrogade 51. There is another one at Vesterbrogade 34 (no seating)

For traditional danish "smørrebrrød" go to Toldbod Bodega, Esplanaden 4. It's fairly close to the Royal Residence. Great Place. Lots of atmosphere. Have the "fiskefilet". http://www.toldbod-bodega.dk/

Another place is Kanal Cafeen. Close to the parlament. Frederikshols Alle 18.

At both places you might wan to check out how much smoking is going on, before you get seated.

For "new" danish cuisine. Noma is the place.

[emsny]

Thanks, Poots and Jakob. When I've digested your comments, I may get back to you with more questions.

[Max Frank]

Spent a recent weekend in Copenhagen, and had some wonderful dining experiences:

Noma: This was a truly sublime experience, and well worth its place in the world's best. A second or third michelin star can only be a matter of time. We had the 7 course tasting menu with matching wines. It was truly exceptional cooking of the highest standard. Delicate and refined and with the freshest of ingredients. There was an overwhelming natural resonance to the ingredients which was intoxicating. All the food was sourced from scandinavia (deer, elderberries, scallops, squid, mussel, walnuts, seaweed, skate to name some of the foods we had). It truly had soul.

Some standout courses:

Pickled skate and elderberries and a foamed mussel sauce: Gorgeously delicate skate punctuated with the kick of each elderberry, and the delightful hint of mussels with the foam. I'm not overly keen on foams but this hit just the right note.

Squid with truffles, with a hazelnut sauce and yoghurt: Absolute heaven! Delicate squid made intense with the truffles, and then transcended to another level with a rich hazelnut sauce, offset with a mix of yoghurt. Paired with this a wonderfully complex and richly perfumed slovenian wine (ribolla grape from simcic).

Vension sausage and poached pear with walnuts and verbena: The vension achieved an impossible richness and delicateness all at once. Offset to perfection with the pear. It sounds odd to say, but you almost felt at one with nature eating this dish. Overwhelming.

Dessert of milk in different textures with mountain cloud berries: Milk in various reductions, down to a richly textured sauce and then eventually a wafer. An inventive and intelligent course, but never forsaking the taste. A delight.

A wonderful evening, and in a beautifully converted old warehouse high on natural design (exposed woodbeams, restrained danish design, 60s chairs with sheepskin throws etc.) and looking out across the water. Very special.

Cofoco: This was an incredible deal. A lively place, beautiful decor and even better food. We had 3 courses for 225dk each (about €30), and a bottle of very drinkable shiraz for 100dk (about €14). You can choose to sit at an individual table, or a large communal one. These are incredible prices in Copenhagen for the level of food and surroundings we got. We had jerusalem artichoke soup with goat's cheese, main course of deer, and pungent ice-cream of chocolate and lychees for dessert. Superb cooking. Incredible value. Book ahead.

Soren K: This is the restaurant in the 'Black Diamond' extension of the royal library down near the waterfront. The location can't be beaten. Looking out over the water. Excellent quality food, and good value 2-course deal available.

Hotel Skt Petri: The restaurant here is in a stunning and trendy hotel conversion from its previous life as a department store. 4 storey high curtains robe off the restaurant from the main atrium. Dramatic indeed. A buzzy sort of place aswell with beautiful people. The food is probably a bit expensive for what it delivers, but the whole package is worth it. There is an asian influence with some of the dishes which worked very well. The menu allows you pick small,medium or large portions of any dish on the menu which is a great novelty. I had a small main course of fillet steak and we shared a lovely chocolate dessert.

So, Copenhagen shined. I'll be back soon. I heartily recommend it.

[jakob nielsen]

Thanks for the report.

All good choices, it looks like you did some serious homework!!

[emsny]

Any thoughts on the restaurant(s) in the Hotel d'Angleterre? In so many cities, hotel restaurants are now far better than they used to be - ten years ago I wouldn't even have asked the question!

[ckruse]

Any thoughts on the restaurant(s) in the Hotel d'Angleterre? In so many cities, hotel restaurants are now far better than they used to be - ten years ago I wouldn't even have asked the question!

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I havent read all the previous posts but for smorbrod I would suggest Kanal Kafeen, I found it excellent in terms of ambiance and food quality. I suggest leverpostej (liver paste with bacon and mushrooms) and fleskastej (sp) (pork with cracklings)

go to any konditorei and have a wienerbrod or a mazarin

[jakob nielsen]

D'angleterre...

Don't do it!

D'angleterre was the scene of one of the most talked about (amongst food people) controversies in DK this year.

After years of mediocrity, D'angleterre hired Rasmus Kofoed, who placed 2nd (or 3rd) at last years Bocuse D'or. He is considerede one of the brightest talents in Denmark.

After a few months he abruptly left. In the media it was said, that the owner forced him to put club sandwiches amongst other things on the menu.

His whole staff left with him.

Then they hired another good chef (forgot his name just know), but he left after a short period as well. Since then, D'angleterre hasn't been mentioned much.

There are plenty of good alternatives very nearby, if you are staying at the hotel. Which is still excellent (and fairly expensive).

Edited December 9, 2006 by jakob nielsen (log)

[emsny]

Thank you SO much for that update/history, Jakob. I had read about the hiring of Kofoed, which piqued my interest, but not about his having left!

I hate to trouble you, but what are some of the other options near the hotel? I was thinking of our first night, when we may want to get back to our bed quickly after dinner. We're interested both in simple and fancy - but somewhere focusing on Danish dishes would be most welcome.

[jakob nielsen]

Thank you SO much for that update/history, Jakob. I had read about the hiring of Kofoed, which piqued my interest, but not about his having left!

I hate to trouble you, but what are some of the other options near the hotel? I was thinking of our first night, when we may want to get back to our bed quickly after dinner. We're interested both in simple and fancy - but somewhere focusing on Danish dishes would be most welcome.

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These are all within easy walking distance of the Hotel.

Top Class:

Premisse, www.premisse.dk, also in english. Dronnings Tværgade 2.

Ensemble, www.restaurantensemble.dk, Tordenskjoldsgade 11, very close

A less formel place that is getting good press lately

Oubæk, www.rasmusoubaek.dk/, St. Kongensgade 52, very close by. A former top place turned brasserie. Haven't been there, but supposedly good value.

None of those places are particularily danish

this is though

Tolbod Bodega, http://www.toldbod-bodega.dk/, mentioned above. Esplanaden 4, maybe a good kilometer away. You might want to check there opening hours. Traditional danish food is often thougt of as a lunch thing, but I am sure they'll be open most nights.

The area around the hotel, is filled with small little streets, there are plenty of good takeaways and such.

Across the square from the hotel is the Nyhavn area, which especially in summertime is very popular with tourists, might be in december as well. Don't go there for the food, go there for the atmosphere, and maybe a beer or two.

Edited December 9, 2006 by jakob nielsen (log)

[emsny]

Many thanks, Jakob; yes, a kilometer certainly counts as nearby - we are New Yorkers and, hence, walkers.

One more question (for now): where does one find the best wienerbrod? So far, the best I've ever eaten was in Tokyo (!) - in a cafe at the Royal Copenhagen china department in one of the big Tokyo department stores.

[jakob nielsen]

Many thanks, Jakob; yes, a kilometer certainly counts as nearby - we are New Yorkers and, hence, walkers.

One more question (for now): where does one find the best wienerbrod? So far, the best I've ever eaten was in Tokyo (!) - in a cafe at the Royal Copenhagen china department in one of the big Tokyo department stores.

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I am not a big Wienerbrød fan, but La Glace that Poots recommended is probably a good bet.

There is quite a lot of not very good bakeries, so keep your eyes open.

Upthread I recommended the chain Emmerys, if you come by one of those. It's generally better quality of ingredients, and nos a sugary as many of the more traditional places.

[YKL]

this thread has reminded me that I have dinner booked at The Paul in Tivoli later this week. Will be my first visit and I have high expectations .... are they justified?

[ckruse]

Many thanks, Jakob; yes, a kilometer certainly counts as nearby - we are New Yorkers and, hence, walkers.

One more question (for now): where does one find the best wienerbrod? So far, the best I've ever eaten was in Tokyo (!) - in a cafe at the Royal Copenhagen china department in one of the big Tokyo department stores.

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Great wienerbrod is pretty ubiquitous if you go to a konditori (the pretszel looking sign is an indicator) if you want a change of pace try a mazarin. veksegudt (sp)

[emsny]

Thanks for the pretzel-sign tip.

[Pille]

I had a really enjoyable & fun meal at Madeleines Madteater in late November. It's a three-hour eating show (fixed menu, several courses, light&music, 1.200dkk pp, alcohol included) that is themed "Den 7'ende sans" (seventh sense?). You get something crisp, something bitter, something salty, something soft, something sour, something strong and something sweet. Some really interesting flavour combinations there (pigeon in liquorice sauce and black pepper paste; duck liver in crispy coating with pumpkin, etc).

The experience lasts for 3 hours and you're supposed to book in advance.

Anyone else been there yet?

[John Talbott]

In the January Food & Wine, among their 100 "Tastes You Must try in 2007" are three from Copenhagen; Noma on which there's a thread currently running and Remisse + Paustian which have already been mentioned here and there.

[YKL]

this thread has reminded me that I have dinner booked at The Paul in Tivoli later this week.  Will be my first visit and I have high expectations .... are they justified?

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rather remiss of me not to have commented earlier on this but our evening at The Paul in mid December was fantastic - excellent and luxurious food (could barely move by the end of it), superb service - knowledgeable and friendly and we were privileged to spend a lot of time talking to Paul Cunningham himself ... who is a marvellous bloke! Am still trying to put together some notes ... almost there.

My return to noma was also stunning ... comments on the main noma thread

Cheers

[BenjaminTheBartender]

Hey Emsny

If you're planning on returning to copenhagen, Rasmus Kofoed is soon to open at REstaurant Kongens Have from what I've heard. I work close by and I've really enjoyed this thread to see people take on copenhagen and where they tend to go. Anyone coming hear from egullet feel free to e-mail at benjamin@er-go.dk, I'd love to give my best advice on copenhagen seing as this society has inspired me so much!

[BenjaminTheBartender]

oh, and by the way, late places to eat: Vita at Store Kongensgade, I think is open till 2 and serves traditional danish food, no real gastronomic experience but still better than Mcdonald's and Rio Bravo which is also a low standard restaurant decorated in an old school AMerican western theme, but they're open till 5 a.m.!

[YKL]

The Paul, Copenhagen - 15 Dec 2006

My niece and I had fantastic time here in December - not least because they had figured out from a random post on EG that I was visiting - and so Paul Cunningham came over at the start to introduce himself and to say hello! Once I'd got over the initial shock and we started chatting, he turned out to be a marvellous bloke and a very hospitable one as well. An unexpectedly exciting start to the evening ... oh goody!

My notes and thoughts on food are below ... it was the set 7 course menu, and we asked to split a wine flight .. rather than risk being found dancing on the tables by the 3rd course ... and they were very obliging about all this.

(Food descriptions and wines taken from the menu - photos are all my own inept efforts so apologies in advance.)

Aperitif - Glogg

Oh we enjoyed this so much that we asked for the recipe!! I think it's usually red wine based - liked a mulled wine? This version was made with white wine though, with orange juice, cointreau, white port, sugar to taste and all heated through with Christmas spices. A very enjoyable and festive start to the proceedings ... probably a little too enjoyable because I accidentally drank it all!

Our snacks, spoons + aperitivos –Gruyere profiterole, aged Parmesan & Ventrechè. Roasted Marcona almond. Date, chorizo mayonnaise – Branflakes., Olive vert Italiano Grande & olive Nero baked with Pimento del Piquillo, avocado crema, foie gras creme

We happily munched through these huge selection of nibbles - all were pretty good. Think my favourite was the date+chorizo mayo - a good sweet spicy flavour.

Queenie scallops, herbes fine, leather pumpkin

The scallops had been marinated in champagne vinegar and lemon oil and were deliciously sweet. The pumpkin puree had been mixed (in the words of Paul C himself) excessive quantities of parmesan and marscapone, which meant that his prediction of finding us on the sofas at the end of the night, groaning with how full we were almost came true!! Unbelievably rich - probably too much so for me .. probably should have resisted the deliciousness and left some behind. whoops.

‘ Brændnede Kærlighed. ‘ - Elvis Aaron Presley 1935 - 1977.

Roasted lobster with pommes puree. Lobster reduction & pork crackling.

Rosé Champagne. Delamotte.

"Burning Love" is a poetic name for this traditional (?) Danish dish and the back story is that it was cooked by two students as a sign of their deep love for each other, and who wouldn't love someone who provided you with enormous bowls of mash?! Not quite sure about the Elvis connection though - maybe the lobster makes it more upscale? In any case, it was another incredibly indulgent dish with generous portions of lobster and potato puree. Although the latter was so rich it was probably more butter than tuber. The pork crackling were fantastic little crunchy squares which gae much needed texture to the dish - and was probably he only thing that could have held its own on that plate of richness.

Roasted monkfish with veal sweetbread from Dønnerup Gods.

Onion soubise & poached Butan onion. Clipped cress.

Puligny Montrachet, Louis Carillon.

Best dish of the night for me - every component was so delicious and flavoursome. The monkfish was of a most superior quality and all the different onion preparations were fab. But the genius touch was the deep fried sweetbreads which the crisp exterior yielded to a wonderfully chewy interior. Marvellous ... and the plates were very clean at the end.

’ Bloc de foie gras. ’ –

Poached pork cheek with Autumn truffles from Alba. Green apple, sprout leaf & honey.

Carte D’or, Baumard, Loire.

Ah .. this was an interesting dish for us since individually, we found the honey sauce too sweet and the foie too salty. But bring the two together and they balance each other perfectly and you get a wonderfully rich and delicious forkful of food. To take yourself to a special place, add a sliver of sharp apple and a sprout leaf for bitterness and it becomes sublime. A very very good dish, superb balance and I just hope the photos give you some sense of what we enjoyed.

Jerusalem artichokes & roasted forest mushrooms. Watercress leaves. Aged Parmesan.

Babera, Sandrome. Italy.

A welcome appearance of vegetables after several rich courses and I really enjoyed the earthy flavours.

Duck, roasted with it’s own sausage. Coco blanco, hazelnut & golden sultanas.

Maple syrup & raspberry vinaigre reduction. Parsley.

Marquis de Terme, Bordeaux.

Apparently duck is a traditional Christmas Eve meal - hence it's appearance here. I love duck, but even I had to admit it was a very rich dish and it almost defeated M but it was so yummy that we soldiered on bravely .

They offered us the option of a cheese course next but having forgotten to pack an extra stomach - we decided to move straight to desserts! So Paul C wandered over and deposited this on our table ...

the instructions were to leave for a couple of minutes and teh remove the lid for a sniff. Turned out the contents was a smouldering pine branchlet - and a lovely fragant scent. We were amused by this but didn't understand until this plate arrived ..

It was an orange dessert selection - and the ice cream was smoked pine!! there was also some mousse, marshmallow, segments ... don't have full notes since this was a a bonus gift from the kitchen and a very delicious one too - lightness and sweet orange flavours - a great plate.

Rice and cherry brûlèe, Champagne granitè. Cherry & roasted almond ice cream.

Brachetto. Malvira, Italiano.

the brulee was excellent and the granita was also very good. There was a clafoutis which was rich and dense - saved from being too cloying by the sour sweet cherries - so another good dessert. Should mention that they were being incredibly generous with their pours of wine - I'm sure we were given almost full servings!

THEPAULchocolate – Winter ’06.

Burmester Vintage ’03.

sorry, but my memory and notes are all a bit hazy on this because I'm so tipsy by this point. My recollection is that it was another good dish and we were finally at the end of an excellent and epic meal.

Petit fours - Nougat Française, Winter spices. Pear & cranberry gel. Blackberry sphere with dark chocolate.

Lavender flower truffle & honey crisp…….to coffee.

I'd asked for peppermint tea for its digestive effects but I was probably beyond saving by that point since I could only manage one ickle P4 - but that was very good. M tells me the others were also very much up to scratch.

Overall

The food is very good indeed - all beautifully presented, well executed and with some flair and imagination. The particular menu we were served was incredibly rich though so if I were to visit again - would probably skip lunch that day! They currently have one Michelin star - and I just wish other 1* in the UK were so good and so much fun.

Service was impeccable all night - and we were very well looked after by Paul and his team. In fact, he spent so long chatting during the final dessert that the ice cream melted! We wouldn't have minded but this was unacceptable to him and he promptly whisked them away and sent for replacements!! Staff were all friendly and enthusiastic, water and bread constantly topped up and nothing was too much trouble for them. Some really good attention to detail during the service as well.

In summary, a splendid place - full of happy smiley people who can't wait to smother you with good food and generous hospitality. Special mention should be made of Paul C - a great personality and full of joie de vivre ... and we were very grateful to him for letting us take up so much of his time!

[Shirley]

Great review completely agree with everything said, I ate there twice in the summer and had great meals. Paul and the boys will be at the food festival at Northcote manor next week well worth a visit.

[emsny]

We had a terrific five nights in Copenhagen; the city's museums were eye-opening, notably the Carlsberg Glypotek. Noma far exceeded my expectations - despite the enthusiastic recommendations from one and all, something about the menus I read made me a bit skittish. But it was spectacular in all respects from the bar snacks to the desserts. Some haunting flavors there. We ate dinner one night at the new opera house. It was fine for opera-house food and a pleasant place to dine before the show, but it would not pass muster as a stand-alone restaurant in that price range. Custom House, the new Conran place, to which friends took us, did not seem to be up to speed yet - or if it was it isn't terribly impressive. Other than that, lots of Wienerbrot (often at La Glace) and good smorrebrod (including at Cafe Sorgenfri, which we thought was great fun). Thanks all for the guidance - especially for the strong recommendation of Noma.