Copenhagen

[John Talbott]

Seth Sherwood {I'm beginning to envy his lifestyle more than I did Johnnie Apple's} has an article in Sunday's Times of NY entitled The Coming of Age of Nordic Cuisine that features three places: Noma, Alberto K + Geranium all most enticingly.

[John Talbott]

Stephen Whitlock, in today's NYT mentions Noma, Claydies, Karriere + Aamanns for interesting food and decor.

[docsconz]

If there is one city right now in the world that I haven't been to, but most desire getting to for culinary reasons, it is Copenhagen. The articles John pointed out illustrate why, though my conclusion was cinched at the latest Madrid Fusion, where a number of those chefs including Rene Redzepi presented.

[YKL]

Couple of places to mention from latest Copenhagen trip ..

Friday night was dinner at www.cofoco.dk - we were in search of a decent but low key supper, and the set 3 course menu (with 3 choices for each course) for 275 DKK seemed to fit the bill nicely.

And we had a pretty good meal - simple dishes, generally executed well and with friendly smiley service. There were three of us, so it was easy to just order everything off the menu … and so from memory we had:

Starters - foie gras terrine; scallops with avocado, tomato and parmesan; green pepper gazpacho with granny smith. All were good and very flavoursome

Mains - poussin with polenta and chanterelles; veal with summer truffles and potatoes; skate wing with samphire and capers - the skate was the best dish I think, although we were disappointed that the veal was tougher than it should have been - particularly given the 50DKK supplement

Desserts - chocolate French toast with yoghurt ice-cream; crème brulee with vanilla ice cream; buttermilk with blueberries and ??? - isn’t it great when you can just push all the desserts into the centre of the table and all dig in?? All pretty nice

So with some mineral water and a couple of glasses of wine, we paid 400DKK a head which seemed like fair value. Certainly a good option for a more casual meal in Copenhagen - and I can imagine that I’ll return.

Also popped into the new nimb brasserie in Tivoli on Sunday morning - main website is www.nimb.dk - couple of pics of the room below

Had mistakenly thought that they might do brunch, but no such luck, so we picked off the lunch menu. My sampler plate of various things including gravlax, air dried ham, fish cakes, herring etc was fine, but not standout. The others didn't rave about their choices euther which is a shame since it’s a nice room with an open kitchen so I can imagine that when it’s buzzing and the kitchen is in its stride, it could be quite a good venue. So … mildly disappointed and not in any rush to return … although am prepared to give them the benefit of the doubt and think that perhaps we were just unlucky.

And lots of hot dogs over the weekend … well, woudn’t be very Danish if I didn’t would it?!

[lambretta76]

Heading over to CPH for a quick weekend from NYC and find myself at a loss for where to eat. I'm a big fan of Danish "quick foods", and sadly don't have the finances for the likes of Noma, The Paul, or formel B. Anyways, can someone chime in with some recommendations for some of the following:

* the best smørrebrød

* the best pølse (hopefully open late at night, when I'll most need one)

* a place serving new Danish cuisine without the price tags of the Michelin-starred restos

* the best bakery (heard good things about Andersen from Japan - are there better locals?)

Thanks in advance for any help - most of the posts I've read have focused on the high end whilst ignoring the lower/middle end.

[jakob nielsen]

Heading over to CPH for a quick weekend from NYC and find myself at a loss for where to eat. I'm a big fan of Danish "quick foods", and sadly don't have the finances for the likes of Noma, The Paul, or formel B. Anyways, can someone chime in with some recommendations for some of the following:

* the best smørrebrød

* the best pølse (hopefully open late at night, when I'll most need one)

* a place serving new Danish cuisine without the price tags of the Michelin-starred restos

* the best bakery (heard good things about Andersen from Japan - are there better locals?)

Thanks in advance for any help - most of the posts I've read have focused on the high end whilst ignoring the lower/middle end.

←

I'll give it a go

Best smørrebrød: My vote goes to Aamanns, in Østre Farimagsgade

http://www.aamanns.dk/index2.html

- it is a slightly modern, less mayonaissey version of smørrebrød. All homemade, and even cheaper than most of the usual suspects from the guide books. It is a little off the beaten track, but not far from the city centre, and right next to The National Museum of Art, should one be so inclined.

The best pølse:

Across the street from the central train station is a deli abnd a hotel called Nimb. In a small hole-in-the-wall they do great (yet ekpensive) hot dogs. Greeeattt.

Not michelin:

Slightly more difficult. The best ´nordic´places are top end, and I advice you to eat a few more hot dogs and save up for Noma. One place http://www.saahvidt.dk/, supposedly does good modern danish food, but I haven't been there myself, so I cant vouch.

Bakery:

Andersens, to my knowledge, has no store in Denmark. I like the chain emmerys, to be found in several locations, http://www.emmerys.dk/emmerys.htm. More traditional, but also good, Lagkagehuset, in Christianshavns Kanal. Great neighborhood to get a cofffee and relax.

Enjoy

Jakob

[lambretta76]

I'll give it a go

Best smørrebrød: My vote goes to Aamanns, in Østre Farimagsgade

http://www.aamanns.dk/index2.html

- it is a slightly modern, less mayonaissey version of smørrebrød. All homemade, and even cheaper than most of the usual suspects from the guide books. It is a little off the beaten track, but not far from the city centre, and right next to The National Museum of Art, should one be so inclined.

The best pølse:

Across the street from the central train station is a deli abnd a hotel called Nimb. In a small hole-in-the-wall they do great (yet ekpensive) hot dogs. Greeeattt.

Not michelin:

Slightly more difficult. The best ´nordic´places are top end, and I advice you to eat a few more hot dogs and save up for Noma. One place http://www.saahvidt.dk/, supposedly does good modern danish food, but I haven't been there myself, so I cant vouch.

Bakery:

Andersens, to my knowledge, has no store in Denmark. I like the chain emmerys, to be found in several locations, http://www.emmerys.dk/emmerys.htm. More traditional, but also good, Lagkagehuset, in Christianshavns Kanal. Great neighborhood to get a cofffee and relax.

Enjoy

Jakob

←

Sadly, I went with Ida Davidsen for smørrebrød. While she is a gem, the restaurant is not. I ordered two very traditional smorrebrods - smoked eel with scrambled eggs, spinach, and chives, and the Hans Christian-Andersen, which was chicken liver with bacon, horseradish, and aspic (think beef Jell-o). While the smoked eel was very tasty, the spinach was overcooked to an almost gelatinous mush, and the eggs were mealy and flavorless. As for the HCA, the chicken liver was fine, but the bacon had clearly been cooked earlier that morning and was burnt to a crisp. The aspic was entirely flavorless, which some may think of as a good thing, but it seemed like it was there to add a saltiness to the dish that was otherwise lacking. The worst part of the meal was the cost. These two sandwiches, perhaps the size of two tea sandwiches each, along with a half-pour of dill "snaps" and a bottle of water ran me nearly $50. (It was 280kr at 5.9kr to the US$.) I should say that the dill snaps was incredibly tasty, but it's a commercial product that I believe is available in the US even.

The polse at Nimb is the real deal. I fell in love with these, and had about 6 throughout the city. It's amazing, but pricey (47kr, or close to $8). BUt you get a house-baked bun, an amazing sausage, carmelized onions cooked in duck fat, cornichons, a really tasty remoulade. Just brilliant.

There is an Andersen in CPH, it's at Østerbrogade 103, and it's brilliant. The best pastries I had on my trip. In fact, I'd break it down as this:

1. Andersen

2. Illums Bolighus

3. Reinh van Hauen

4. Emmery's

Andersen had the best, with a nice, buttery, flaky crust. They get extra points for serving mini versions of many pastries. Emmery's - who I really wanted to like as their design is beautiful - was the worst - hard, dry yet chewy, just very disappointing. My favorite overall was the poppy seed "knotted" pastry I got at Illums Bolighus - I could eaten a dozen of them. RvH was solid, but nothing special.

I'll report back on some of my other meals, including an amazing experience at Nørrebro Bryghus, when I get some free time.

[TheSwede]

Anyone care to do an update on Copenhagen? What is hot and exciting? Will anything be open during july?

[jakob nielsen]

Not much opening,

far more closings (Noveau, Geranium)

A couple of places recently opened in the upper medium genre, getting some buzz

Kødbyens Fiskebar - http://www.fiskebaren.dk/da/

- fish place in the old meatpacking part of Copenhagen that also sports a couple of fancy bars, and some galleries among the still working butchers

MASH - steakhouse http://www.mashsteak.com/default.asp

- founded by the guys behind Le sommelier, and Umami (both still worth a visit)

in the High end

Restaurant MR is set to reopen - http://www.mr-restaurant.dk/

Scarpetta- an italian place from the boys behind Cofoco etc just won AOK - Best new restaurant, haven't been myself

Aamanns - whose danish smørrebrød I am a huge fan of, has opened an evening place next door, focusing on modern danish - http://www.aamanns.dk/

[TheSwede]

Thanks! Will probably visit Kødbyens Fiskebar during the weekend.

[jakob nielsen]

Thanks! Will probably visit Kødbyens Fiskebar during the weekend.

←

How was it?

[ginger chef]

when and why did geranium close. had a brilliant meal there last year.

[jakob nielsen]

when and why did geranium close. had a brilliant meal there last year.

←

Geranium closed about a month ago, due to a disagreement btw søren and rasmus and the new owner. The old owner was commited to turning Geranium into a world class restaurant, the new one, not so much apparently.

Quite a shame, but the boys have promised to open up a new place.

Edited July 25, 2009 by jakob nielsen (log)

[TheSwede]

Thanks! Will probably visit Kødbyens Fiskebar during the weekend.

←

It was really excellent. I had their various raw starters together with a nice champagne. It is not a restaurant for some quite dining though, more of a "start the evenings party" place.

[Paola]

I'm trying to plan a 4-day stay in Copenhagen and I want to eat well (but not necessarily crazy expensive every time).

I saw the dissapointing review for Ida Davidsen in this thread. Where to go for great smorgasbord then?

Noma still worth it? How about MR?

Do Schultz & Passagens Spisehus still exist?

Is Cofoco still good? Does Spisellopen have good food, or is it just an interesting place?

Where else to go? I like to eat my main meal at lunch, so preferable some good lunches and light dinners.

Would love your advice! Thank you!

[Mette]

Hi Paola,

I'll mention some of the places not featured in the above....

For smørrebrød, there are a couple of very good alternatives to Ida Davidsen:

• Kanalcafeen (Frederiksholms Kanal 18) which is good and very traditional (only open for lunch)
  
• Gitte Kik (Slotskælderen, Fortunstræde 4) - again traditional - good chance of spotting members of parliament
  
• Aamanns (Øster Farimagsgade 10) - a modern take on smørrebrød - I have not been but heard very great things about Aamanns (they apparently also do take out)
  

On the sweet side, La Glace off the main walking street offers delicious hot chocolate and some very filling and extremely tasty cakes (try the sports cake - nothing sporty about it) Right next to La Glace, you can buy Peter Beier chocolates - the closest Copenhagen comes to artisan chocolate - a bit traditional but good quality

For dinner, I do feel compelled to recommend BrewPub Copenhagen (Vestergade) (yes, I do own shares, my husband helped open the place :-)) - microbrewed beer, beer tasting menus and a very good vegetarian burger in the pub

For haute cuisine, try Alberto K in the SAS-hotel, extremely tasty and with a wonderful view of the city

Oh - and for Noma you do need to book well in advance

I hope you enjoy Copenhagen

Edited February 2, 2010 by Mette (log)

[Food Snob]

noma is definitely worth it!

MR too. Some amazing dishes here.

Søllerød Kro and Bo Bech are another two excellent higher-end options.

For Danish frokost, there is Told og Snaps and Schønnemann...

Aamanns is a modern, slightly more sophisticated take on this and good for lunch or dinner.

Edited February 2, 2010 by Food Snob (log)

[Christopher Haatuft]

I second Noma and Kanalcafeen. I also had a great, though very simple, meal at Restaurant Gammel Mønt; http://www.gammel-moent.dk/

[cxt]

Just had a nice sushi dinner at Damindra. Beautiful presentations and interesting texture and flavor combinations in their sushi rolls. Service was a little slow but very friendly.

[ladydisdain]

I'll be in Copenhagen for a week starting Friday with my husband and 3 1/2 year old daughter. We're staying in an apartment, so we'll be self-catering some of the meals, but we'll all go nuts if we do that all the time.

We can't do fancy. We can't do Noma, or anything remotely like it; we don't do multiple courses (unless there's an appetizer for us all to share or something). We usually get an hour if we're lucky in any restaurant so we can't do leisurely service.

I'm hoping for some very casual recommendations for lunch and dinner (breakfast is usually fruit/eggs/pastry at home). We pretty much eat anything except Indian, which doesn't agree with me. So any kind of food at all - sandwiches, seafood, any sort of ethnic dining, good street food, excellent takeaway, and the foodstuff we're all obsessed with - ice cream.

We've sighed and come to the conclusion that fine dining is not possible right now, and neither is getting a babysitter in Copenhagen. But anything - and I really do mean anything - else that you might have an idea about would be super - even if it's another site to check. (I already checked Chowhound; totally useless.) We're already bracing ourselves for the cost - we're in Stockholm this week and the sticker shock has been considerable.

We're staying near...the Round Tower? but are happy to go anywhere as long as it's walkable or accessible by public transportation.

[FrogPrincesse]

I will be in Copenhagen next month, so it would be great to get updated recommendations.

Of course it's already too late to get reservations for Noma. But are there any other places that I should make sure to visit?

So far, my tentative list contains, after studying the various discussions on eGullet:

• Relae
  
• Kodbyens Fiskebar
  
• Paustian Bo Bech
  
• Aamans
  

We are not looking for super-high end. For dinner I am looking at menus around $50 - $75, maybe slightly more for something that is really remarkable.

Thanks!

[iainpb]

I'm off to Copenhagen in August and looking for suggestions of places to eat. My list currently runs as

Noma (obviously)

Geist

Salt

Does anyone have any opinions on these places? Are they worth visiting? Is Noma really worth its enormous price tag?

Any suggestions appreciated!

[patrickamory]

On the old-school tip (i.e., lunch), try:

Husmann's Vinstue

Ida Davidsen

[FrogPrincesse]

I would include Relae. More suggestions here, here and here.

Edited April 16, 2013 by FrogPrincesse (log)

[Mjx]

I always make a beeline for BrewPub; both the pub and the restaurant are excellent, but if you're specifically interested in Nordic ingredients, go with the restaurant (the pub's focus is on universal pub classics).