StudioKitchen (2002-2007)

[shacke]

I'll take the blame for this near-tragedy, I'd known intellectually to keep a thumb on the cork as you pull the cage on a bubbly, but thought I'd have another millisecond or two... Thankfully the caroming cork made a lot of noise, but somehow avoided taking anyone's eye out. Delicious stuff, and not too much of it ended up on the floor...

←

It would have taken my eye out had I been facing you. That noise you heard was my skull cracking but hey - we're friends.

Evan

[shacke]

Pity Evan owns all of the remaining known bottles of Monbazillac...

←

Actually there is stock left and I also found out today that the vineyard was sold off and the new owner is making good wine with other varietals on the chateau. There is no word on future crops of the monbazillac but there is great hope as the producer does seem to be aware of the prized vines they have purchased.

stay tuned I guess.....

Evan

[shacke]

Amuse - Chick Pea and Lemon Soup, Panini of Mushrooms and Serrano Ham.

A terrific start to the meal. Not much to add to that.

Parsley Risotto, Rabbit Salmorejo, Manchego Cheese Broth, Arbequina Olive oil

(Andre Bonhomme Vire Clese)

This was my wife's favorite and she even went so far as to tell Shola that it was better than the risotto she had in Italy. The color was vibrant and not overpowering with parsley flavor as the color suggests. The rabbit was tender fall of the hare soft. That's cheese foam on top.

Applewood Smoked Wild Salmon, Apple-Miso Glaze Vanilla Oil Curry Emulsion

(Kosta Browne 2002 Sonoma Cost Pinot Noir)

This may have been my personal favorite but the lamb was also crazy good. The wild salmon had the typical stronger flavor than its penned cousin and the sweet accompaniments and curry notes were great together. I also very much dig wood smoked salmon.

Grass Fed Lamb Loin, Chick Pea Croquette, Olive Caramel and Pistachio Praline

(Joseph Phelps 2000 Insignia)

The lamb was presented in two ways. For the life of me I can't remember the name of the pepper the lamb dice was stuffed in but it was Spanish in origin. Started with a "P" (not pepper so don't even try it). I am sure someone knows.

The loin was cooked sous vide and, no BS, may have been the best lamb I have had. Seared and homogenously rose colored throughout. Fantastic. The olive caramel was a nice touch.

Roquefort Panna Cotta, Pear-Sauternes Gelee Frisee, Endive Marmalade

(Chateau Haut Bernasse 2000 Monbazillac)

I forgot to take a picture of this one but it was damn good. The candied endive and the roquefort was particularly well balanced.

Cornflake Crusted Peach Bread Pudding, Peach Ginger Coulis, Quark and Yuzu Ice Cream, Candied Mineola and Almond Granola

Just Coffee for this one!

Just peachy here. A Yuzu is a japanese lime cousin. the german cheesy Quark and the Yuzu together were a big hit. Everyone had seconds I think. The "granola" was a kaleidoscope of flavors that packed a big punch. There was salt, sugar, orange peel, cocoa nibs, nuts maybe and who knows. Just a pinch between the cheek and gums was all you needed.

So that was it. Superb and never disappointing. I look forward to going back soon. Shola is a great host and so even keeled. Some in my group were - shall I say - um ... uh - LOUD and a tad locker roomesque but they enjoyed themselves tremendously. They all can't wait to get back as well.

Ahh.... I remember my first time too.......

Evan

[mrbigjas]

Grass Fed Lamb Loin, Chick Pea Croquette, Olive Caramel and Pistachio Praline

(Joseph Phelps 2000 Insignia)

that's an interesting plating. looks like the lamb crash-landed and skidded into place. mayday! mayday! incoming!

i kid! i kid because i love!

The lamb was presented in two ways.  For the life of me I can't remember the name of the pepper the lamb dice was stuffed in but it was Spanish in origin.  Started with a "P" (not pepper so don't even try it).  I am sure someone knows.

piquillo

[philadining]

Amuse - Chick Pea and Lemon Soup, Panini of Mushrooms and Serrano Ham.

Oh man, I could REALLY go for one of those paninis right about now! We often joke about the various shops that Shola could open, and I'll add the Panini Palace to the list. Could be the ultimate lunch: a shot of soup, a grilled panini filled with premium ingredients, a foamy goblet of dessert. Perfect.

Everything else looked great too. That risotto with the rabbit sounds especially delicious.

And dude, Percy and I would like to remind you that you would have had 43 photos of your Roquefort Pannacotta if you'd been a little more careful about your guest list... Close personal friends and relatives?!?! What were you thinking?! This is serious business man! You've got to think about future generations, the historical record, your legacy. We're not just trying to weasel our way into another SK dinner, we're just thinking about the children. It's for their sake really, imagine what a tragedy it would be for them to grow up without carefully-lit pix, from several angles, of every foam and drizzle and pile of granola.

But no, you'll have to live with the consequences of that image of the cheesey flan fading from your memory, to be someday the subject of bitter arguments with your friends about what shape it was, and what color, and where the endive marmalade was on the plate. I hate to see that happen.

I'm just trying to help...

[Capaneus]

Quoth mrbigjas:

"that's an interesting plating. looks like the lamb crash-landed and skidded into place. mayday! mayday! incoming!"

"i kid! i kid because i love!"

Man! I *wish* it was incoming. Memo to self: "Never look at an SK post when hungry!"

[philadining]

Studio Kitchen October 1, 2005

Coconut Carrot Soup

Crab Spring Roll

This is still more evidence of how great a “Shola’s Soup Kitchen” would be. A creamy coconut broth was vibrant with spices and carrot flavor, lightened by an airy foam. This itself would have been plenty satisfying, but the addition of tender bay scallops, bright orange mussels and chunks of lobster made it even more delicious.

The crunch of the fried spring roll made a nice textural contrast, the crab filling lending another sweet note from the sea. I liked dipping the spring roll in the soup…

Grilled Chicken "Sate"

Cucumber Pickle, Peanut Praline

In theory this is a pretty simple dish, just grill some chicken and serve peanut sauce. But not surprisingly, this reached new heights in Shola’s hands, with extremely tender, marinated chicken, touched with grill char, dressed lightly with peanut sauce, served over a sweet peanut caramel.

The pickle of thin strands of cucumber echoed the traditional cucumber salad so often accompanies these skewers in Thai restaurants. Apologies to Kamol Phutlek of Nan restaurant, but I have a new favorite satay….

Applewood Smoked, Roasted Wild Salmon

Tamarind Glaze, Soy Mushrooms, Braised Chinese Celery

The tamarind glaze gave a slight sweetness to this rich fish, which had just enough smoke to add another dimension, but not so much that it overwhelmed the inherent flavors of the salmon. A variety of wild mushrooms, with a little splash of soy, provided an earthy platform for the fish. The braised Chinese Celery was boldly bitter, and would have been hard to take on its own, but was a perfect foil for the fattiness of the salmon.

Poached Lobster with Asian Spices

Dessicated Tomatoes, Lemongrass Tea

Banana Leaf, Kaffir Lime and Lemongrass Perfumed Jasmine Rice

Yeah, yeah, lobster, yada yada, fabulous, delicious, whatever, let’s talk abut the rice! First of all, jasmine rice has a lovely aroma of its own, but when cooked in coconut milk, a pinch of turmeric for good measure, then steamed in a banana leaf, with a stalk of lemongrass and a couple of kaffir lime leaves, it turns into something amazing. We were all pretty happy just eating the rice out of the mini steamer baskets. The perfume released by simply unwrapping the banana leaves was intoxicating.

OK, I guess it should be acknowledged that the Lobster was pretty amazing too. The meat itself was sprinkled with spices such as cinnamon, allspice, star anise, and Sichuan peppercorns, which gave it a complex edge, but left it tasting like a lobster. The real magic came from the combination of all the elements: spearing a chunk of lobster, a piece of the concentrated tomato soaking in the lemongrass broth, and scooping up some of that rice. Fabulous.

Frozen Pineapple Compote

Lemon Sponge Cake, Coconut Sorbet, Ginger Broth

Sour Milk and Lemon Cloud

We were laughing about how one doesn’t often hear the phrase “the cloud is really good” around a dinner table, but we heard it quite a lot this night! Buttermilk, cream and crème fraîche were foamed into a mold, which when removed, left a soft, billowing cloud of lemony goodness. The coconut sorbet was colder and sharper and cleaner, a nice contrast. The lemon sponge cake sat atop a log of concentrated pineapple, drizzled with basil oil, sprinkled with fleur de sel. All of this was drifting in a pool of subtle ginger broth. It was a beautifully bright ending to a vibrant meal.

It’s sounding like a cliché to keep saying it, but it’s true: yet another Studio Kitchen meal that was interesting, exciting and delicious. In some ways the menu wasn’t quite as far-out as some meals we’ve had at Studio Kitchen, but this was largely due to Shola’s adhering to the concept of the food having at least a vague Thai theme. And I’ll sacrifice novel for delicious any day!

Big thanks to Percy for coming up with the idea of a Thai theme, and for organizing the event, and to the rest of the folks at the table for the lovely company, and for contributing some fabulous wines (more details soon on the very challenging wine pairings.) And of course, thanks to Shola for yet another incredible meal!

Edited October 2, 2005 by philadining (log)

[percyn]

Philadining, I am now convinced you are a nocturnal creature.

Not sure I can top the great pics and commentary, so I will add the wines we tried along with the description of each dish.

Thanks everyone for the great company and a special thanks to Jeff for bringing more than his fair share of wine.

Shola...you have outdone yourself again !

Studio Kitchen October 1, 2005

Coconut Carrot Soup

Crab Spring Roll

Domaine des Terrisses Gaillac Vin Doux Sparkling - This was a sweet sparkling which is typically served with dessert, but the sweetness of the carrots and coconut in the soup complimented the sweetness of the wine.

2004 Dr Konstantin Frank Dry Finger Lakes (NY) Riesling- This was one of the driest Rieslings I have every tried. It certainly provided good contrast to the sweetness of the soup.

This is still more evidence of how great a “Shola’s Soup Kitchen” would be. A creamy coconut broth was vibrant with spices and carrot flavor, lightened by an airy foam. This itself would have been plenty satisfying, but the addition of tender bay scallops, bright orange mussels and chunks of lobster made it even more delicious.

The crunch of the fried spring roll made a nice textural contrast, the crab filling lending another sweet note from the sea. I liked dipping the spring roll in the soup…

Grilled Chicken "Sate"

Cucumber Pickle, Peanut Praline

2004 Ignaz Niedrist Sudtirol Terlaner Sauvignon - This is an Italian Sauvignon, which has a wonderful, complex nose and fruity palate.

2003 Migration Pinot Noir - A great pairing with the chicken sate. Fruity and lusious, but not overly so.

In theory this is a pretty simple dish, just grill some chicken and serve peanut sauce. But not surprisingly, this reached new heights in Shola’s hands, with extremely tender, marinated chicken, touched with grill char, dressed lightly with peanut sauce, served over a sweet peanut caramel.

The pickle of thin strands of cucumber echoed the traditional cucumber salad so often accompanies these skewers in Thai restaurants. Apologies to Kamol Phutlek of Nan restaurant, but I have a new favorite satay….

Applewood Smoked, Roasted Wild Salmon

Tamarind Glaze, Soy Mushrooms, Braised Chinese Celery

2001 Alsace Barmès-Buecher Riesling Grand Cru Steingrubler 2002 - Well balanced Riesling  with a hint of sweet lime.

2004 Domaine Amido Lirac Rose

The tamarind glaze gave a slight sweetness to this rich fish, which had just enough smoke to add another dimension, but not so much that it overwhelmed the inherent flavors of the salmon. A variety of wild mushrooms, with a little splash of soy, provided an earthy platform for the fish. The braised Chinese Celery was boldly bitter, and would have been hard to take on its own, but was a perfect foil for the fattiness of the salmon.

Poached Lobster with Asian Spices

Dessicated Tomatoes, Lemongrass Tea

Banana Leaf, Kaffir Lime and Lemongrass Perfumed Jasmine Rice

2001 Louis Latour Montagny 1er Cru 'La Grande Roche' - The structure of this white burgundy stood up well to the lime and lemongrass flavors.

2002 Georges Duboeuf Viognier Les Ozils - Don't recall a lot about this wine, which means it did not knock my socks off.

Yeah, yeah, lobster, yada yada, fabulous, delicious, whatever, let’s talk abut the rice!  First of all, jasmine rice has a lovely aroma of its own, but when cooked in coconut milk, a pinch of turmeric for good measure, then steamed in a banana leaf, with a stalk of lemongrass and a couple of kaffir lime leaves, it turns into something amazing. We were all pretty happy just eating the rice out of the mini steamer baskets. The perfume released by simply unwrapping the banana leaves was intoxicating.

OK, I guess it should be acknowledged that the Lobster was pretty amazing too. The meat itself was sprinkled with spices such as cinnamon, allspice, star anise, and Sichuan peppercorns, which gave it a complex edge, but left it tasting like a lobster. The real magic came from the combination of all the elements: spearing a chunk of lobster, a piece of the concentrated tomato soaking in the lemongrass broth, and scooping up some of that rice. Fabulous.

Frozen Pineapple Compote

Lemon Sponge Cake, Coconut Sorbet, Ginger Broth

Sour Milk and Lemon Cloud

2003 Chateau La Casenove Muscat De Rivesaltes - Excellent pairing with the tangy sour milk lemon cloud, which was out of this world (will have to try making it soon).

We were laughing about how one doesn’t often hear the phrase “the cloud is really good” around a dinner table, but we heard it quite a lot this night! Buttermilk, cream and crème fraîche were foamed into a mold, which when removed, left a soft, billowing cloud of lemony goodness. The coconut sorbet  was colder and sharper and cleaner, a nice contrast. The lemon sponge cake sat atop a log of concentrated pineapple, drizzled with basil oil, sprinkled with fleur de sel. All of this was drifting in a pool of subtle ginger broth. It was a beautifully bright ending to a vibrant meal.

It’s sounding like a cliché to keep saying it, but it’s true: yet another Studio Kitchen meal that was interesting, exciting and delicious. In some ways the menu wasn’t quite as far-out as some meals we’ve had at Studio Kitchen, but this was largely due to Shola’s adhering to the concept of the food having at least a vague Thai theme. And I’ll sacrifice novel for delicious any day!

Big thanks to Percy for coming up with the idea of a Thai theme, and for organizing the event, and to the rest of the folks at the table for the lovely company, and for contributing some fabulous wines (more details soon on the very challenging wine pairings.) And of course, thanks to Shola for yet another incredible meal!

←

[philadining]

Thanks for those careful notes, Percy. We got pretty darn close with many of these wine matches, sometimes by pure luck, but not too many unequivocal home-runs.

Coconut Carrot Soup

Crab Spring Roll

Domaine des Terrisses Gaillac Vin Doux Sparkling - This was a sweet sparkling which is typically served with dessert, but the sweetness of the carrots and coconut in the soup complimented the sweetness of the wine.

2004 Dr Konstantin Frank Dry Finger Lakes (NY) Riesling- This was one of the driest Rieslings I have every tried. It certainly provided good contrast to the sweetness of the soup.

The Gaillac was one of the just-about perfect marriages with the food. Alone, it was delicious, but almost too sweet. But with the soup... transcendent. We would thank the folks at Moore Brothers for this recommendation, if someone had gone to Jersey for wine, which, of course no one did. That would be wrong.

My advocacy for NYS wines, Keuka Lake wines in particular, and Dr Frank even more specifically, will continue until my dining companions start complaining, and so far they have not! This was indeed an extremely dry Riesling, with a very unusual flavor pattern. As the wine first hits the tongue, it tastes like nothing at all, but then blooms into an austere, but complex fruit.

Grilled Chicken "Sate"

Cucumber Pickle, Peanut Praline

2004 Ignaz Niedrist Sudtirol Terlaner Sauvignon - This is an Italian Sauvignon, which has a wonderful, complex nose and fruity palate.

2003 Migration Pinot Noir - A great pairing with the chicken sate. Fruity and lusious, but not overly so.

I thought the Terlaner Sauvignon was delicious, and went pretty well here, and probably would have gone pretty well with most anything we ate. The surprise was the Migration Pinot, which I agree was independently tasty and really nice with the chicken.

Applewood Smoked, Roasted Wild Salmon

Tamarind Glaze, Soy Mushrooms, Braised Chinese Celery

2001 Alsace Barmès-Buecher Riesling Grand Cru Steingrubler 2002 - Well balanced Riesling  with a hint of sweet lime.

2004 Domaine Amido Lirac Rose

The Riesling was a big, intense, golden-colored wine, practically a different grape than the version we had earlier. The age, and some time on wood, gave this a hefty flavor that went pretty well here. Not exactly right, but good... I saved some to try with the lobster, and it was pretty good there too!

I liked the Lirac, but didn't love it with the salmon. Nice wine though, and not bad with the lobster either.

Poached Lobster with Asian Spices

Dessicated Tomatoes, Lemongrass Tea

Banana Leaf, Kaffir Lime and Lemongrass Perfumed Jasmine Rice

2001 Louis Latour Montagny 1er Cru 'La Grande Roche' - The structure of this white burgundy stood up well to the lime and lemongrass flavors.

2002 Georges Duboeuf Viognier Les Ozils - Don't recall a lot about this wine, which means it did not knock my socks off.

Chardonnay is often a good match for lobster, and this elegant, clean Burgundy was very nice here. The Asian spin of the spicing made it a tiny bit less ideal than it would be with simple lobster and butter, but still, I liked this pairing.

The Voigner was good too, but I'll agree that it didn't kill me here.

Shola had suggested that a Belgian Trippel Trappist Ale might have gone well here, and I'm kicking myself a bit, because it crossed my mind as we were planning, but I dismissed the idea!

Frozen Pineapple Compote

Lemon Sponge Cake, Coconut Sorbet, Ginger Broth

Sour Milk and Lemon Cloud

2003 Chateau La Casenove Muscat De Rivesaltes - Excellent pairing with the tangy sour milk lemon cloud, which was out of this world (will have to try making it soon).

This was one of my favorite wines of the night, and could have done well as a starter too, but I'm glad we kept if for the end, the floral nose and sweet citrusy flavors really complimented this dessert. I'd love to take credit for this idea, but I had a little moore help than I'm at liberty to discuss....

All in all, a very nice array of wines, and fairly nice matches overall, I thought. Big thanks to everyone for their excellent contributions!

Edited October 2, 2005 by philadining (log)

[shacke]

Since you provided the instructions, I will have to one day try the jasmine rice in coconut milk. Sounds great....

Evan

[KatieLoeb]

Will that do to convey the pea green with envy emotion??

I am so sorry I missed this, but duty calls and I remain fairly buried in Spanish wine notes and information. Looks like dinner was another smash and the wine pairings look fabulous!! The sweet sparkler with the soup is brilliant. The Niedrist Sauvignon is awesome stuff and I think it might have been my influence that strongarmed a couple of you into buying it on our last wine shopping adventure to Pennsauken. So I will make do by living vicariously, knowing that some small part of me was there in spirit.

I had forgotten about Shola's time spent in Thailand, and it certainly appears that some of that knowledge took root. I hope to be able to enjoy some Thai cooking at StudioKitchen some time in the future, if this wasn't a one time only performance.

[philadining]

The Niedrist Sauvignon is awesome stuff and I think it might have been my influence that strongarmed a couple of you into buying it... 

←

Indeed, thanks for that tip, and your other advice as well, we kept all of it in mind as we were selecting the wines.

[KatieLoeb]

The Niedrist Sauvignon is awesome stuff and I think it might have been my influence that strongarmed a couple of you into buying it... 

←

Indeed, thanks for that tip, and your other advice as well, we kept all of it in mind as we were selecting the wines.

←

Glad I could help, but I was really referring more to the fact that I felt I'd sort of browbeaten you guys into buying a wine you'd never heard of from a crazy winemaker in the far reaches of Alto Adige.

Glad you liked it though!

And I remain envious...

[Capaneus]

Thanks for those careful notes, Percy.  We got pretty darn close with many of these wine matches, sometimes by pure luck, but not too many unequivocal home-runs.

Coconut Carrot Soup

Crab Spring Roll

Domaine des Terrisses Gaillac Vin Doux Sparkling - This was a sweet sparkling which is typically served with dessert, but the sweetness of the carrots and coconut in the soup complimented the sweetness of the wine.

2004 Dr Konstantin Frank Dry Finger Lakes (NY) Riesling- This was one of the driest Rieslings I have every tried. It certainly provided good contrast to the sweetness of the soup.

The Gaillac was one of the just-about perfect marriages with the food. Alone, it was delicious, but almost too sweet. But with the soup... transcendent. We would thank the folks at Moore Brothers for this recommendation, if someone had gone to Jersey for wine, which, of course no one did. That would be wrong.

My advocacy for NYS wines, Keuka Lake wines in particular, and Dr Frank even more specifically, will continue until my dining companions start complaining, and so far they have not! This was indeed an extremely dry Riesling, with a very unusual flavor pattern. As the wine first hits the tongue, it tastes like nothing at all, but then blooms into an austere, but complex fruit.

Grilled Chicken "Sate"

Cucumber Pickle, Peanut Praline

2004 Ignaz Niedrist Sudtirol Terlaner Sauvignon - This is an Italian Sauvignon, which has a wonderful, complex nose and fruity palate.

2003 Migration Pinot Noir - A great pairing with the chicken sate. Fruity and lusious, but not overly so.

I thought the Terlaner Sauvignon was delicious, and went pretty well here, and probably would have gone pretty well with most anything we ate. The surprise was the Migration Pinot, which I agree was independently tasty and really nice with the chicken.

Applewood Smoked, Roasted Wild Salmon

Tamarind Glaze, Soy Mushrooms, Braised Chinese Celery

2001 Alsace Barmès-Buecher Riesling Grand Cru Steingrubler 2002 - Well balanced Riesling  with a hint of sweet lime.

2004 Domaine Amido Lirac Rose

The Riesling was a big, intense, golden-colored wine, practically a different grape than the version we had earlier. The age, and some time on wood, gave this a hefty flavor that went pretty well here. Not exactly right, but good... I saved some to try with the lobster, and it was pretty good there too!

I liked the Lirac, but didn't love it with the salmon. Nice wine though, and not bad with the lobster either.

Poached Lobster with Asian Spices

Dessicated Tomatoes, Lemongrass Tea

Banana Leaf, Kaffir Lime and Lemongrass Perfumed Jasmine Rice

2001 Louis Latour Montagny 1er Cru 'La Grande Roche' - The structure of this white burgundy stood up well to the lime and lemongrass flavors.

2002 Georges Duboeuf Viognier Les Ozils - Don't recall a lot about this wine, which means it did not knock my socks off.

Chardonnay is often a good match for lobster, and this elegant, clean Burgundy was very nice here. The Asian spin of the spicing made it a tiny bit less ideal than it would be with simple lobster and butter, but still, I liked this pairing.

The Voigner was good too, but I'll agree that it didn't kill me here.

Shola had suggested that a Belgian Trippel Trappist Ale might have gone well here, and I'm kicking myself a bit, because it crossed my mind as we were planning, but I dismissed the idea!

Frozen Pineapple Compote

Lemon Sponge Cake, Coconut Sorbet, Ginger Broth

Sour Milk and Lemon Cloud

2003 Chateau La Casenove Muscat De Rivesaltes - Excellent pairing with the tangy sour milk lemon cloud, which was out of this world (will have to try making it soon).

This was one of my favorite wines of the night, and could have done well as a starter too, but I'm glad we kept if for the end, the floral nose and sweet citrusy flavors really complimented this dessert. I'd love to take credit for this idea, but I had a little moore help than I'm at liberty to discuss....

All in all, a very nice array of wines, and fairly nice matches overall, I thought. Big thanks to everyone for their excellent contributions!

←

See, I thought we did poorly overall: the Gaillac, the Migration and the Muscat were very close to right; a few of the others, notably the Mersault, the Terlaner and the Barmes-Buecher showed real class independently of anything else, and really deserved better than the fate we consigned them to. Some, like the Lirac, were just such hopeless misfires I can only hang my head in abject shame.

Still, the evening was not much tarnished by that. Shola's food would have shined if we'd brought soda-pop. The soup, the chicken (the pickled cucumber fairly sung, when you had a combined mouthfull) and the cloud were the evening's standouts for me, but mostly because they brought an element of surprise, either by elevating an old stanby (chicken) or by being entirely new (cloud). There wasn't a less-than-sublime mouthfull in the meal.

Another slice of SK bliss. Thank you, Percy. As always, a great evening.

[philadining]

I was lucky enough to partake of yet another StudioKitchen dinner recently, and as will shock nobody who's read this topic, it was another great meal, with a few variations of some familiar SK preparations, as well as some new twists.

Roasted Foie Gras, Quail Egg, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Truffle Syrup.

The tiny poached quail egg was a wonderful companion for the foie, especially with the deep fall flavor of truffle and black trumpets. The sprinkle of amaranth sprouts brought some lightness of color and flavor.

Chicken Escabeche Ravioli, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Red Lentil Soup, Roasted Peanut Oil

This ravioli and the soup have been favorites of mine from previous dinners, but in different settings. Together, they were better than ever! The ravioli filling was tender and assertively flavored with vinegar and smoked paprika, a wonderful contrast to the impossibly smooth lentil soup.

Valencia "Bomba" Rice, Rock Shrimp, Slow-Roasted Tomatoes, Piperade Jus, Esplette Pepper, Bottarga, Fennel Emulsion

Until eating at StudioKitchen, I had labored under the naive presumption that arborio was the only rice suited for making risotto, but Shola often employs different rices for risotto-like dishes. This Valencia rice was wonderfully creamy, with a little bite remaining, and the intense, tomatoey broth was just addictive. Shola was kind enough to leave the rock shrimp out of my bowl, saving me a quick trip the the emergency room, but they received raves from others around the table, even from folks who said they had never cared for rock shrimp. I didn't miss them, especially as one of those concentrated tomatoes exploded in my mouth.

As often happens at Studio Kitchen, Shola made a last-minute change to the menu, this time adding a complete course.

Roasted Razor Clams, Glazed Chicken Wings, Fava Beans and Cepes, Brown Butter - Dashi Emulsion.

The clams were actually a little on the chewy side, but I loved the flavor, especially the buttery miso vibe of the emulsion merging with the juices collecting in the bottom of the shells. The tender favas and chunks of mushroom went very nicely with the clams.

This was the most elegant chicken wing I've ever encountered, off-the bone and sweetened with a tangy glaze. I suppose it seems a bit odd in the abstract: "What did you have at Studio Kitchen?" "Clams and Chicken wings.." But in Shola's hands, it's what bar food dreams of being someday!

Dry Aged Ribeye Steak, Braised Beef Cheeks, Slow Cooked Hanger Steak, Mushroom Marmelade

This was quite a pile of beef! The Niman Ranch Ribeye was good, but, you know, it's a steak... The beef cheeks and hanger really transcended that. The cheeks were just barely holding together, with the intense flavor of slow cooking. The hanger was the biggest surprise. That has always been a tasty cut, but often a bit chewy. But by searing, and then slow-poaching sous-vide, Shola intensified the flavor and made the meat amazingly tender. It doesn't even seem like the same meat as used in a quickly seared steak frites, this version is even more delicious, if you can picture it! The mushroom marmalade added a nice sweet twist.

Banana Tatin, Butterscotch and Chocolate Sauces

This was simple, straightforward, and amazingly delicious! Just puff pastry, tender caramelized bananas, and a drizzle of sauces that added a nice accent to the already vivid flavors.

Yet again, interesting, inventive, and well-executed food, another great meal at StudioKitchen. Thanks Shola!

And thanks also to another group of entertaining dining companions, for good conversation, and great wine. The bottles were coming fast and furious, so I couldn't keep track, but there were some amazing vintages on the table, if I can find some notes, I'll add them here.

Edited October 8, 2005 by philadining (log)

[percyn]

Wow...razor clams and chicken wings, never had that at SK before.

Did you have a wine scribe ?

[mrbigjas]

holy moly, philadining. you know, the bathroom there still has a shower in it--have you considered just taking the plunge and moving in?

[philadining]

I'm working on that, it really would save on gas....

[philadining]

A kind soul from the recent dinner forwarded me some wine notes (thanks Beth!). These folks were not fooling around...

opener - Vilmart Coer du Cuvée

Roasted Foie Gras, Quail Egg, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Truffle Syrup.

2004 Albert Mann Cuvée Albert Pinot Gris

1995 Clos St. Immer Gewurztraminer V.T. Goldert

Chicken Escabeche Ravioli, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Red Lentil Soup, Roasted Peanut Oil

1997 Domaine Closel Cuvée Isa

1999 Domaine Weinbach Schlossberg Riesling Cuvée Catherine

Valencia "Bomba" Rice, Rock Shrimp, Slow-Roasted Tomatoes, Piperade Jus, Esplette Pepper, Bottarga, Fennel Emulsion

1999 Brunello Uccelliera

1997 Montevertine Pergola Torte

1995 Bodega Ismail Arrayo Val So Gillo

Roasted Razor Clams, Glazed Chicken Wings, Fava Beans and Cepes, Brown Butter - Dashi Emulsion.

2001 Mersault Les Porozots Boillot

2004 Brunori Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Le Gemme

Dry Aged Ribeye Steak, Braised Beef Cheeks, Slow Cooked Hanger Steak, Mushroom Marmelade

1985 Chateau Margaux

1989 Leoville Les Case

1996 Seavy Cabernet Sauvignon

Banana Tatin, Butterscotch and Chocolate Sauces

2001 Les Tuilleries Sauternes

2001 Suidirot Sauternes

So many of these were so good, I was really losing track... I do recall just loving the Gewurtz, the Mersault, the Margaux, and one of the Sauternes (but tragically I don't recall which one....)

There were so many bottles swirling around, and half-finished glasses spanning courses that it was hard to recall exactly what went best with what. The clams were an unexpected course, so the Verdicchio was a hail-mary that actually worked pretty decently. The Mersault was open during the rice course, and I loved it there. I thought the reds might have been a bit big, certainly with the rice, even with the beef. Not that I'm complaining, I was happy to sample them nonetheless! Sauternes was nice with the bananas.

From now on, I'm taking better notes....

[KatieLoeb]

A kind soul from the recent dinner forwarded me some wine notes (thanks Beth!).  These folks were not fooling around...

opener - Vilmart Coer du Cuvée

Roasted Foie Gras, Quail Egg, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Truffle Syrup.

2004 Albert Mann Cuvée Albert Pinot Gris

1995 Clos St. Immer Gewurztraminer V.T. Goldert

Chicken Escabeche Ravioli, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Red Lentil Soup, Roasted Peanut Oil

1997 Domaine Closel Cuvée Isa

1999 Domaine Weinbach Schlossberg Riesling Cuvée Catherine

Valencia "Bomba" Rice, Rock Shrimp, Slow-Roasted Tomatoes, Piperade Jus, Esplette Pepper, Bottarga, Fennel Emulsion

1999 Brunello Uccelliera

1997 Montevertine Pergola Torte

1995 Bodega Ismail Arrayo Val So Gillo

Roasted Razor Clams, Glazed Chicken Wings, Fava Beans and Cepes, Brown Butter - Dashi Emulsion.

2001 Mersault Les Porozots Boillot

2004 Brunori Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Le Gemme

Dry Aged Ribeye Steak, Braised Beef Cheeks, Slow Cooked Hanger Steak, Mushroom Marmelade

1985 Chateau Margaux

1989 Leoville Les Case

1996 Seavy Cabernet Sauvignon

Banana Tatin, Butterscotch and Chocolate Sauces

2001 Les Tuilleries Sauternes

2001 Suidirot Sauternes

So many of these were so good, I was really losing track... I do recall just loving the Gewurtz, the Mersault, the Margaux, and one of the Sauternes (but tragically I don't recall which one....)

There were so many bottles swirling around, and half-finished glasses spanning courses that it was hard to recall exactly what went best with what. The clams were an unexpected course, so the Verdicchio was a hail-mary that actually worked pretty decently. The Mersault was open during the rice course, and I loved it there. I thought the reds might have been a bit big, certainly with the rice, even with the beef. Not that I'm complaining,  I was happy to sample them nonetheless!  Sauternes was nice with the bananas.

From now on, I'm taking better notes....

←

Dude - you're not kidding that y'all weren't messin' around with the wines. Nice lineup to say the least. Sheesh! Sweet selection you got going there...

I happen to personally love that Brunori Verdicchio and I'll bet it's freakin' fabulous with the clams. I put that wine on as the only Italian white on the current list I just finished and there's Razor clams grilled on the plancha on the menu. I'll definitely have to recommend that pairing. Sounds like a winner.

[Capaneus]

These folks were not fooling around...

Ya think?

Jeebus!

'85 Margaux... well, it isn't the '86

I've *heard* of the St. Immer "Goldert". Never *seen* one, mind you!

'89 Leoville Las Cases. Great vintage of a good wine. How are the '89s drinking?

If the stuff I don't know is anywhere close to this level I could conceivably keel over and die of pure, distilled, concentrated envy.

And I'm willing to bet the Sauternes you liked was the Suduiraut. One of the stars of what's been described (truthfully this time) as the best vintage in twenty-five years. At least it isn't the Guiraud, I would have plotzed. What happened, you guys stumble and break the bottle?

[MobyP]

I'm intrigued about how he succeeds with so many courses and so many intricate preparations whilst still being on his own. Is there any chance someone could convince him to write/record a day in the life? How many of these meals can he pull off in a week? How many days prep for each meal?

Might someone ask?

[philadining]

So, what, I was supposed to turn down this invitation just to avoid being mocked mercilessly on this forum? I'll withstand your cruel taunts for another dinner like this one!

StudioKitchen October 12, 2005

Chufa and White Truffle Horchata, Pardinas Lentil Emulsion

Chicken Wing Escabeche

2003 Blue Mountain Vidal Blanc

Yeah, Studio Kitchen has become our favorite spot for wings... And why is it that all the sports bars don't french their wings out so they have a nice neat little handle? This version eschewed the Crystal hot sauce for the subtle sourness and paprika notes of an escabeche. But the more dramatic flavors were coming from the multi-stage flavor transformations of the soup, a lovely creamy puree, rich with the flavor of tigernuts, crossfading with truffle, lentil, back to the truffle...

The Pennsylvania Vidal was not as sweet as some, just nice and crisp and refreshing, and a very nice partner with these flavors.

Calasparra "Bomba" Rice

Parsley Puree, Escargots, Baby Clams,Finocchiona

Smoked garlic Froth, Marcona Almonds

2002 Heron Hill Semi Dry Riesling

Wonderfully tender snails, not those rubbery erasers so may places try to pass-off. And instead of bathing in garlic and butter, they absorbed more of the bright parsely flavors, and some of the smoke from the ethereal garlic foam. I especially liked the salty edge from the fine dice of Finocchiona salami. The rice itself was creamy, yet still in distinct grains, bathing in the herby broth.

This Heron Hill Riesling is made a few hundred yards up the road from Dr Frank's place, but isn't nearly as serious. Its forward sweetness was a bit overbearing on its own, but ultimately played off the herby, salty flavors in a nice way. This is not a particularly distinguished wine, but it did a nice job with this course.

Halibut Wrapped in Serrano Ham

Pork Trotter Croquette

Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Shaved Mojama

Jerez Sauce

1996 Domaine Billard Beaune “Les Epinottes”1er Cru

Halibut can be mild to the point of flavorlessness, but wrapped with good ham, seated on a sherry sauce, this version was delicious.

Even so it might have been upstaged by the Croquette, its intense porky flavor and slightly gelatinous texture crowned by a satisfying crunch. The mushrooms, perked-up by a sprinkle of dried tuna, refused to resign themselves to the status of a simple accompaniment, demanding attention on their own, and soliciting many raves.

This light red Burgundy is a favorite of mine with fish, playing a quiet supporting role.

Wagyu Oxtail and Onion Tart Tatin

Yellowfoot Chanterelles

Whipped Horseradish

Rioja Glaze

2001 Byron Io

I'll bet you'd been wondering what happened to waygu oxtails... Well, Shola makes dessert out of them. This actually wasn't sugary, although the caramelization of the meat and onions, and the Rioja glaze gave it a slight sweet note. But the wonderful falling-apart texture of the beef, mingled with the earthy mushrooms, atop a crunchy pastry made this perhaps my favorite dish of the night.

The Rhone-style Io from California came out swinging, a big, bruiser of a wine, seemingly way too aggressive for this dish. But with a little air, it ended up being a really enjoyable partner with this deeply beefy dish. I liked it a lot.

Bergamot Scented Braised Lamb Shoulder

Escalivada Piquillo Rellenos

Ibores and kefir Cream

Spicy Membrillo

1999 Millbrook Pinot Noir

Another one of Shola's slow-braised dishes, which ended up as an intensely full-flavored lamb, but without any of that muttony funk. The tea notes from the bergamot were subtle yet undeniable. A little dab of the quince membrillo was an excellent counterpoint. The tender Piquillo pepper was stuffed with a light vegetable stew, a wonderful balance to the earthy meat.

I wouldn't have thought of a Pinot Noir for this course, but I'm glad we drank it for a few reasons. First, it was just a really nice wine, on the lighter end of the scale, but very tasty. Second it was a revelation to have this good of a Pinot from the mid-Hudson Valley in NY. And third, it ended up matching well with the lamb. Nice call, I can't take credit for it!

Chocolate Cherry Ganache

Fromage Blanc Ice Cream

Olive Oil Caramel

Black Pepper and Cocoa Nib Craquant

Black Olive Tuiles

Yeah, yeah, another molten chocolate cake... but this one was injected with an intense cherry syrup, melding with the liquid interior. And when's the last time you got one accented with black olive? The very olivey stripe of caramel, and more subdued flavor in the crunchy tuille were both surprises, a good partner with the chocolate, and a novel one (at least for me!) The ice cream was mostly super-creamy, rather than cheesey, and especially good as it picked-up the citrusy crunchies, and combined with the cake.

Again, a thoroughly enjoyable dinner, every forkful delicious. These dishes were a little different from what I'd been getting lately, and every bit as good, or better! The interesting textures from the trotters and oxtails were welcome, as were some of the uncomplicated, direct flavors, like the trumpet mushrooms.

And we keep saying this, so it seems like we're just being polite, but I think there's something magical about the room, and Shola's vibe, so I always end up really liking meeting everyone at the table, enjoying the comraderie almost as much as the food. We had folks who traveled from NY and Washington DC purely for dinner, and all seemed to think it was more than worth it!

So, big thanks to everyone who came, for the good company, and for good (and sometimes surprising) wines. Especially big thanks to Christina for putting it together. And of course, thanks to Shola for another exciting meal.

Edited October 14, 2005 by philadining (log)

[shacke]

OK. Since you prepared for the taunts I will go on the record as saying you officially need therapy (beyond lipitor which goes without saying).

You must realize that I say this to you not as physician or friend but as a intensely green, jealous sunuvabitch. Moreover, posting these glorious and tempting photos on this holy day of fasting may fit the legal definition of a hate crime.

forbidden wings.... gluhhhh....

Evan

[philadining]

Oh, yeah, sorry to post these pics on the day of a fast...

I'll try to spend this day finding a way to atone for it...