Canada, eh?

[Gifted Gourmet]

article from Slate Online

The story of Canadian wine is a tale of two provinces. Although there are vineyards in Nova Scotia and Quebec, wine grapes are cultivated in far greater numbers, and with far more success, in Ontario and British Columbia, which together are now home to more than 200 wineries. Ontario alone accounts for over 80 percent of all the wine produced in Canada... Canadian winemakers are in an exuberantly experimental stage. They've planted a broad range of vinifera grapes, including cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, sauvignon blanc, Riesling...The frigid Canadian winter does, however, serve one useful purpose: It makes possible the production of what has become Canada's signature wine—icewine.

Good article and it talks about my favorite: icewines ...

Comments from our Canadian chums on eGullet on this piece?

[SBonner]

Ontario, due to it's colder climate, produces more reliable vintages of ice wine and usually more intense and viscous than our B.C. counterparts. B.C.'s Okanagan is a region to watch. We are making some amazing Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Semillon, and Pinot Noir. The Southern Okanagan, known as the "Golden Mile", is producing good concentrated Bordeaux red blends and Merlot.

Cheers,

Stephen

Vancouver

Edited January 24, 2006 by SBonner (log)

[joey madison]

Here's a link to a recent article on Canadian wines from Niagra and the Okanagan Valley.

http://www.slate.com/id/2134157/?nav=tap3

Check it out!

[Keith Talent]

I didn't realize Ontario accounted for such a large percentage of Canuck vino. And there's going to be some pissed of partisans that Osoyoos Larose is damned with faint praise.

[sadistick]

Ontario is becoming more and more well known not only for their icewines, but for their whites (which they have been for a few years now) but as well for their reds.

Here are a few vineyards to check out with regards to Red wines:

Stratus

NCT

Lailey

Stratus has a gorgeous Merlot, as well as their signature blend 'Red'

NCT is the Niagra teaching winery, run by a well known wine maker, and they buy their grapes from local vineyards and make their own...Recently had their 2004 Pinot and it was stellar.

Lailey I just so happened upon on my last visit to the region. Their Cab/Merlot blend was outstanding, as was their Pinot.

Cheers

[merlin]

Decent enough article.

I like the Osoyoos Larose very much and believe that the '03 vintage is better than the '02 which was better than the '01.

I love the Cave Springs Reserve Riesling. The only Cdn. riesling I have enjoyed more is their CSV label.

Sadistick mentioned a couple of ON producers. I have never seen a Lailey product in Alberta but did enjoy their wines at restaurants on trips to Ottawa.

Had a bottle to the Stratus Red a couple of weeks ago. Unfortunately, not impressed. Disappointed. Lots of light raspberry and strawberry flavors but not much weight. Not sure what was the combination of grapes as nothing was noted on either label and I understand that the winemaker has done this intentionally. Do not get me wrong. This was a pleasant wine. However, at $40 + too much competition at this price point.

[jamiemaw]

Gifted Gourmet,Jan 24 2006, 03:13 PM]

The story of Canadian wine is a tale of two provinces. Although there are vineyards in Nova Scotia and Quebec, wine grapes are cultivated in far greater numbers, and with far more success, in Ontario and British Columbia, which together are now home to more than 200 wineries. Ontario alone accounts for over 80 percent of all the wine produced in Canada... Canadian winemakers are in an exuberantly experimental stage. They've planted a broad range of vinifera grapes, including cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, sauvignon blanc, Riesling...The frigid Canadian winter does, however, serve one useful purpose: It makes possible the production of what has become Canada's signature wine—icewine.

Good article and it talks about my favorite: icewines ...

Comments from our Canadian chums on eGullet on this piece?

Slate: With the exception of Inniskillin and a few others, Canadian wines can be tough to find in the United States. Relatively speaking, not a lot of wine is produced in Canada. In addition, some of the better wines are made by small estates that don't want the hassle of exporting, and Canadians naturally prefer to keep most of the good stuff for themselves. Given attitudes south of the border, can you blame them for not wanting to share?[/

This is true GG. BC wineries play very hard-to-get. One, Blue Mountain, can be visited by appointment only, and famously sent out invitations to their Vancouver wine reception several years ago . . . during the postal strike.

So short of sleeping with the winemaker (which, incidentally, I don't recommend as they are notoriously selfish lovers, much more concerned with 'dropping fruit', 'oxygenating' and 'drip irrigation'), you'll find it very difficult to access Canadian wines.

On the other hand, we're happy to share our enormous reserves of beaver pelts, softwood (aka 'flaccid') lumber, and oil. In fact Canada just replaced the fine oligarchy of Saudia Arabia as your lead supplier of oil. Our 10:30 Meritage is quite thirst quenching of a summer's afternoon.

So the following may change . . .

Slate: Being oblivious to Canada is, for many Americans, a point of pride. Some even consider it a civic duty. Who's the new prime minister of Canada? Who cares! Such willful ignorance may be un-neighborly, but it's hard to argue that the United States has suffered any onerous consequences because of it. We still send Canada acid rain; it still sends us hockey players. There are, however, smaller costs. Few Americans are aware, for instance, that Canada has a thriving viticultural industry that is producing commendable wines.

Back to wine, this wasn't a bad sample, but it was a tiny one. At the end of my street in Kelowna, there's a little winery called CedarCreek, whose Platinum Series of wines is really quite good. And there are many other local examples, some of which we touched on during that little blog in December. But you'll have to come here to try them with us locals, on the back stoop, bottle in hand.

[KevV]

Writing from Toronto ('Tarano') I just figured I should do my part...

Yes, the Niagara area may be at the same latitude as Tuscany, but from what I know conditions will still favour colder weather varietals. My feeling is that, aside from Icewines, Rieslings may be the best buys - as with the Cave Springs mentioned above, which is a good one and well-regarded.

I've been out of Canada for years, am recently returned, but am very far from being an expert. I've read more of Ontario wine than tasted - but this is also due to the fact that local vins still seem to be taxed at the same rates as imports. At the more affordable to mid- end of the price scale, they can hold their own alright. But, with no price advantages, I still tend to stick with what I know better, which is the imports.

For more info you can might start with Canada's 'Wine Guru'.

[KevV]

Oh, and I should have provided a link to Tony A's article on Icewine, so have a look here.

[thom]

Hello all,

I'm a long-term eGulleteer but very much a wine novice so this is my first post in the forum.

My interest in wines has been growing strongly over the last year or so, and like many enthusiastic amateurs I am starting to take a strong interest in what I drink, but don't always have the depth of knowledge to make informed choices.

Dessert wines were until recently a closed book to me, apart from a liking for orange muscat. Last night though, I did have a kind of epithany and I'm keen to build on this new nugget of appreciation.

The wine in question had been brought back from Canada by a very good friend of mine and her Canuck husband. It was a 99 bottle of the Inniskillin Icewine (I think the word 'Vidal' was in there too but I'm not even sure to what this referred?).

We had it yesterday as part of a (probably very unsuitable) Valentines meal as it was one of the very few occassions we ate dessert at home, and the bottle in question had been sat in my cupboard for nearly two years now.

The wine (to my uneductaed pallatte) was utterly spectacular. It didn't taste cloying, sticky or overtly sweet, but was lucious and spacious yet intense. Real honey notes (almost a kind of honey cough sweet note if that isn't a faux pas to say), and it really got into your nose (citrus possibly?) though there was no discernable hit of alcohol. Oh I don't know, I really lack the vocabularly here but it was great. I really feel like my eyes (and tastebuds) have been opened.

So now I'm wondering if the wine is actually as good as it seemed to me? And I'm also wondering whereabouts I can get some more in the UK? Are wine websites my best tack? If so, are they any who are trusted and are likley to carry such a wine?

All feedback greatfully received.

[Sneakeater]

Vidal is type of grape.

That wine is as spectacular as you thought. You are VERY lucky to have started seriously drinking dessert wines near the top. (Don't let it spoil you.)

[thom]

Sneakeater,

Thanks for your reply, which comfirmed both my hopes and fears.

My hopes in that I can at least recognise a special dessert wine, even after a clam linguine with chilli and garlic.

My fears in that it is likely to be very expensive and hard to get hold of, and other wines will pale by comparison.

Bugger.

Oh well, I'm going to remortgage the house and try and track some down online.

Thanks again.

Cheers

Thom

[Sneakeater]

To support your worst fears, I paid $30 (NYC -- USA) for a glass of that as a special treat for someone I was taking out to dinner a few nights ago.

Edited February 15, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[thom]

In that case I have upgraded the status of the friend who bought me the bottle from 'very good' to 'best'.

$30 a glass in NY? I'm working on that being equal to about £18 a glass, but as far as I know North American wine tends to command a premium over here (as I know from trying to source Cali Pinot Noirs) so maybe £25 a glass in a restaurant

How many glasses in that teeny little bottle? Maybe three? So bottle price may be approx £60 retail (£40-ish for wholesale?).

Gracious.

If only it hadn't tasted so good. Oh the curse of such a delicately calibrated pallatte...

Anyone know the best way to buy it in Blighty?

Thom

[Sneakeater]

Don't worry THAT much. Some NYC restaurants have HUGE mark-ups.

[Sneakeater]

First, now that I think of it, I think my dinner guest probably had a glass of riesling, not vidal. The riesling is slightly more expensive. (I love them both myself; in theory, or as a matter of principle, I prefer the vidal as a native grape; but in my heart of hearts I probably like to drink the riesling a little more.)

Second, if I remember correctly, at retail in NYC, bottles of Inniskillin Vidal Icewine usually go for something like $50 or $60. (Can anyone confirm or correct?) They're usually more recent vintages than the 1999 your friend treated you to.

Edited February 15, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[GordonCooks]

First, now that I think of it, I think my dinner guest probably had a glass of riesling, not vidal.  The riesling is slightly more expensive.  (I love them both myself; in theory, or as a matter of principle, I prefer the vidal as a native grape; but in my heart of hearts I probably like to drink the riesling a little more.)

Second, if I remember correctly, at retail in NYC, bottles of Inniskillin Vidal Icewine usually go for something like $50 or $60.  (Can anyone confirm or correct?)  They're usually more recent vintages than the 1999 your friend treated you to.

←

50-60 for 375ml is right.

[Walter Moar]

Second, if I remember correctly, at retail in NYC, bottles of Inniskillin Vidal Icewine usually go for something like $50 or $60.  (Can anyone confirm or correct?)  They're usually more recent vintages than the 1999 your friend treated you to.

←

Just for comparison, the current retail price for Inniskillin Niagara Vidal Icewine in British Columbia (west coast) is CAD$50 for the 375ml bottle. The price for the Inniskillin Okanagan Vidal Icewine (grown out west rather than in Ontario) is CAD$53. We're talking around £25, but of course you have to take into consideration taxes and duties when alcohol moves across borders.

Glad to hear that you enjoyed it! The thing that sets quality dessert wine apart is that it needs a healthy amount of acidity to prevent it from being cloying -- the "citrus" you spoke of is a pretty good indication of good acid.

The Inniskillin web site lists Liberty Wines and Western Wines as UK importers. Good luck!

[thom]

Thanks guys, thanks Walter.

I have tracked it down, initially through Harvey Nichols (posh department store) wine shop. They don't tend to be the cheapest, but nor are they guilty of vicious mark-ups, and they do have a very well-sourced list.

Tha damage?

£57:50 (I think) for the Riesling, and £47.50 for the Nadal (both UK pounds obviously). These are for the 2002, though to be honest I'm not sure how that year rates compared to the 98, and whether the latter would have commanded a premium?

Ah well, next time I have even the sniff of a reason to celebrate I'll be down to the Manchester branch of Harvey Nicks waving my credit card.

Cheers

Thom

[Sneakeater]

I have to say that I know nothing about vintages and would be grateful for any information from people who do.

Edited February 15, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[Walter Moar]

£57:50 (I think) for the Riesling, and £47.50 for the Nadal (both UK pounds obviously). These are for the 2002, though to be honest I'm not sure how that year rates compared to the 98, and whether the latter would have commanded a premium?

←

The prices I quoted are from our provincial government liquor board site, and they are a little lax about keeping the vintage information up to date. The Niagara is listed as 1999 and 2001, the Okanagan is 2002 and 2003.

I, too, am unfamiliar with vintage differences for Icewines.

[Brad Ballinger]

I have to say that I know nothing about vintages and would be grateful for any information from people who do.

←

I, too, am unfamiliar with vintage differences for Icewines.

←

Wine on the Web has vintage charts for white and red wines from Ontario and British Columbia. They don't go back many years, and they don't have a lot of detail, but it's something.

Also, A Pocket Guide to Ontario Wines, Wineries, Vineyards, and Vines (ISBN 0-7710-3055-X) contains vintage charts going back to 1988.

Finally, there might be some help through Opimian, The Wine Society of Canada.

[Fengyi]

Tom Stevenson's Annual Wine Report has vintage reports for both BC and Ontario going back a few years, which are quite helpful (I'd quote the points given for each vintage, except a friend has currently walked off with my copy!).

However, I don't think it concentrates on Icewines, but rather dry table wine conditions. I do think that Canadian dry wines can be excellent, having fallen in love with certain BC Pinot Noirs. They have also proved sneaky and fun bottles to put into blind tastings with wine friends!!

BTW - what's the general consensus on the Sparkling Icewine? I've had it a couple times now, but can't decide whether I think it's worth the £50 price tag.....

[bouquetduvin]

Tom Stevenson's Annual Wine Report has vintage reports for both BC and Ontario going back a few years, which are quite helpful (I'd quote the points given for each vintage, except a friend has currently walked off with my copy!).

However, I don't think it concentrates on Icewines, but rather dry table wine conditions. I do think that Canadian dry wines can be excellent, having fallen in love with certain BC Pinot Noirs. They have also proved sneaky and fun bottles to put into blind tastings with wine friends!!

BTW - what's the general consensus on the Sparkling Icewine? I've had it a couple times now, but can't decide whether I think it's worth the £50 price tag.....

←

I submitted one of the wines to Slate Magazine for review (Cave Spring Riesling Reserve). If you like Pinot Noirs from Canada, also try a Gamay, which is a lighter style red, very appealing with an enticing, almost spicy nose. And, besides Rieslings, try Gewurtztraminers too. I won't use this sight to promote my wines, but I can suggest a book called VINES - which is a great guide to Canadian Wines.

Edited February 24, 2006 by bouquetduvin (log)

[Fengyi]

If you like Pinot Noirs from Canada, also try a Gamay, which is a lighter style red, very appealing with an enticing, almost spicy nose.  And, besides Rieslings, try Gewurtztraminers too. I won't use this sight to promote my wines, but I can suggest a book called VINES - which is a great guide to Canadian Wines.

←

LOL Guess what we served at our wedding? Gamay (St. Hubertus) and Gewurtz (Iniskillin Dark Horse) from BC (they were served at our Chinese banquet)!

They went down well with the mainly international crowd, who were pleased to try Canadian wines (though we had a few wisecrackers!).

What I like about BC Gamays is that they are much more in the Swiss, rather than the Beauj, style. I haven't found a single BC producer who carbonically macerates their gamay (Don't know about the Ontario ones).

Dry rieslings are not that common in BC - it's much easier to get hold of gewurtz (and generally very good Gewurtz!).

Did you like Vines? We were given a copy, but weren't impressed by the writing style. I thought the editing could have been a lot tighter.

Has anyone here read John Schreiner's new book Wines of Canada?

What's the verdict on that?

Edited February 24, 2006 by Fengyi (log)