TN: Christmas Dinner (Champ, Vouvray

[jrufusj]

CHRISTMAS DINNER - At home in Tokyo (12/25/2005)

Cathryn's parents and brother and sister-in-law were in town for the holidays. We also had Richard, Naoko, and the kids to join us for dinner.

Settling in

• N.V. José Michel & Fils Champagne Cuvée du Père Houdart - France, Champagne, Moussy
  Some goldish depth to the yellow and a mousse that is full but somehow seems to move almost in slow motion – produces an interesting anticipatory sort of urgency to take the first sip. The nose produces an immediate impression of deep white plums and brioche, with a general bass-level clay kind of mineral behind it. With a search and a sniff, some apple and honey and nuts are there as well. Palate is smooth and soft, with a mousse that is not quite creamy, but certainly smooth. After more deep plum fruit and toasted nuts and butter, there seems to be a grilled mushroom kind of character on the lingering finish. Completely different to the V-F, this is all about depth and maturity. An interesting blend of base wines from ’85, ’86, and ’88, recently disgorged and having a fairly high proportion of Pinot Meunier. A clear case for what that grape can do with a little respect thrown its way.
  

Mingling with stand up appetizers

Fresh local oysters on the half shell; diver scallops and razor-thin slices of lemon wrapped in fresh yuba and fried; and fresh medium shrimp fried tempura style but with a very ligth dusting of panko added on -- the fried items with a ponzu-mayo dipping sauce

• 1964 Domaine Bourillon Dorléans Vouvray Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
  This a deep gold, but still has a surprising brightness for its age. Nose shows some nutty/sherry-flavored oxydised notes upon pouring. However, there’s still fresh ripe apple fruit, along with more mature sweet figs. Underneath all of this is a spine of crushed stone that is consistent through both the nose and the palate. The palate initially shows the same oxidation as the nose, along with nectarine and fig fruit. It is a pleasant surprise when, over the course of about an hour, the oxydised element actually recedes and the wine picks up a sense of fruit freshness on the nose and acid definition on the palate. There’s always a slight rancio character – this is past its prime – but the wine becomes much younger with time in the glass. This far exceeded my low expectations for a 41-year old wine that was modest to start. Then again, I always underestimate the longevity and capacity for evolution of good chenin blanc. Not the best match with the food, but a pleasure to drink.
  
• 1990 Guy Michel Coteaux Champenois Guy Michel - France, Champagne, Pierry, Coteaux Champenois
  Pale yellow, with darker hints around the rim. The surprisingly youthful look carries through to a nose that simply screams chalk and tart pears. Underneath this initial youthful presentation is a bit of more mature and ripe apple, plus some grilled nut that hints at a bit more underlying maturity. On the palate, the wine is a little sharp and is texturally thin, though not thin of flavor. A bit of slightly exotic citrus joins the white tree fruit, but this is really all about chalk and acid brightness. The mid-palate fills with chalk that is reminiscent of upper Loire chèvre in its chalky stage – both in flavor and texture. The finish lingers a bit with more chalk and just-ripe apple. I’m not sure I’d want to drink this alone, but this was fantastic with the fresh oysters and fried shellfish. This chardonnay from Pierry is an absolute testament to terrior and the ageability and lurking character of what can seem like thin and acidic base wines.
  

Sitting down to -- pasta??? or rice???

Traditional Sicilian tuba -- oven-baked terrine of eggy, pecorino-flavored carnaiolo rice on the outside with tomato-sauced penne and fresh peas on the inside.

• 1990 Villa de Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rufina
  Clear and bright red-orange, noticeably lighter at the edge. Nose is still bright with earth and sour cherry, along a with a little mushroomy depth. Palate shows good acid brightness and complete absence of tannins. Initially quite light, but cherry fruit actually picks up a little weight with some air. Not quite thin, but definitely to the lean side of the scale. Strong features are a pleasantly sinewy texture, good acidic cherry-toned Rufina fruit, and a nice earthiness that comes back out on the finish. A good accompaniment to the tuba, this is not yet long in the tooth but does need to be consumed. This was a great value. I’m glad I’ve still got two more bottles.
  

And now for the bird

Long Island duck roasted with sourish orange-lemon-honey-black pepper-cinnamon glaze. Sauce of defatted pan remainders enriched with Champagne and butter then reduced. Gratinée of potatoes that cooked with the duck in its fat then were browned with a little cream. Haricots verts sautéed in walnut oil with shallots and crushed walnut.

• 1993 Hubert de Montille Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
  Bright reddish burgundy, still pretty solid at rim. Threw a small amount of sediment when decanted. Opened and decanted about an hour and a half before serving, the first impression from the decanter had it very much closed up, with some sweet dark fruit and a little earth on the nose, but not much more. When poured, it was much more open, but still far from generous. The nose showed a nice concentration and density of dark berry richness, along with an undertone of earth and anise. On the palate, it first shows as being a bit rough, with slightly dusty tannins overwhelming the sappy berry fruit and bright acidity. However, a little time comes to the rescue and the brightness and focus of the acidity, plus the silkiness of the fruit, make this much more pleasurable and Volnay-like. The lingering sweet berry and earth finish promises a lot. At a bare minimum, this still needs a good three to five years to finish softening and integrating (and is drinking surprisingly younger than the Pommard Pez), but is already enjoyable with meaty dishes. Provided a very nice match with the duck.
  

Just a wafer-thin mint (or more)

Charlotte russe (like a trifle but lighter -- without the fruit and sherry/port/brandy)

• N.V. Franck Bonville Ratafia de Champagne - France, Champagne, Avize, Ratafia de Champagne
  The color of a very light brandy, this has a nose that gives off delightful and slightly spirity wafts of orange liqueur. Along with the orange, closer inspection shows macerated raisin and pear. The palate is warm but not at all hot, with sweet caramelized pears, chocolate-covered orange peel, and Christmas pudding spice. Deceptively gentle, this is dangerous as one wants to sip and sip and sip, but there is 18% alcohol hidden under the fruit and spice. One of the best accompaniments to charlotte russe that I have ever found.
  

Wines showed well in general and worked especially well with the food. Great company as always. I am blessed to have my cousin Richard and his Japanese family living here in Tokyo. The fact that he is a terroir-obsessed wine geek is just lagniappe.

Posted from CellarTracker

Edited January 4, 2006 by jrufusj (log)