Michelin 2006: New three-star restaurant

[Luis Gutiérrez]

From what I know--from pretty reliable sources--there are just two inspectors in Spain for the entire country and they are not terribly knowledgeable. The Spanish Michelin guide is among the most under-financed of all editions. Which explains the small number of stars in relation to, say, Italy which has nowhere near as many creative restaurants as Spain. Or France where every restaurant with a clean toilet seems to get a star. The promotion of Ruscalleda & Andoni was a rare bit of insight for the Red Book, it has to be said.

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Pretty strange considering Spain is one of the most exciting places for gastronomy in Europe. Why would they do that?

[vserna]

Which explains the small number of stars in relation to, say, Italy which has nowhere near as many creative restaurants as Spain.

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It's not a matter of the number of full-time inspectors in Spain. It's a matter of policy dictated by the firm's headquarters in Clermont-Ferrand: the total number of stars in Spain has to be kept under a loose lid, around 110 or 120, and so it's been for the past 20 years, which is ridiculous considering the culinary explosion in this country, where everything has changed since 1985. The chief inspector in Spain confessed that surporising fact to me, directly, in response to my criticism, and that of the other leading restauranrt critics in this country, about Michelin's inexplicable stinginess here.

The promotion of Ruscalleda & Andoni was a rare bit of insight for the Red Book, it has to be said.

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Not really. These are well-established places. They have both sported three Campsa 'suns' for years.

[ulterior epicure]

What?! No second star for Gaig? I'm really surprised...

U.E.

Edited November 27, 2005 by ulterior epicure (log)