Some notes

[Florida Jim]

Dinner with George:

With salmon spread and crackers:

2002 Chidaine, Montlouis sur Loire Les Choisilles:

Knowing both producer and vintage, I had expectations; but this showed a bit thin and not ready for drinking yet. I suspect a year or two will be helpful. Hold.

With roast pork, crusty bread and vegetable mélange:

2002 Dom Michel Voarick, Corton-Renardes:

The cork was wet to the capsule with some leakage – and if that’s what it takes, may every bottle be that way. Killer aromatics in the cherry and stone register with nuances of spice, earth and very light fresh herb, complex and alluring; every bit as arresting on the palate where the stone is in charge but the fruit and nuances are layered and the texture is silken, good concentration and intensity, lovely balance; good length and clarity. Integrated, ripe without any over-ripeness and pure as can be. Wonderful Corton.

After:

2001 Ricasoli, Formulae:

Mostly sangiovese this is medium weight, varietally correct and not in the least overdone or over-oaked (why am I so surprised?). An easy wine to like, without real effort, and one possessing good cut and balance. Better than expected.

Others:

2002 Barthod, Bourgogne Les Bons Bâtons:

As this is closing up, it is losing the sweetness it had on release and is retreating to its structure. Thinner today but good and should be held awhile.

2002 V. Dauvissat, Chablis La Forêt:

Showing beautifully with classic Chablis structure and flesh but balanced fruit. Delightful today and, likely, for years to come.

2000 V. Dauvissat, Chablis Les Preuses:

Closed. Nothing like the last bottle (June, 2005) with scant fruit and lots of structure on the nose and palate. Hold.

2001 Coturri, Pinot Noir Jewell Vineyards:

This Sonoma Mountain vineyard yields less than 1/2 ton per acre from 40 year old vines that are biodynamically and dry farmed. On the other hand, this producer scares me – about half of the bottles I buy that bear its name are not good, for one reason or another.

So thank-you Kate for this bottle - since I did not buy it, I am out nothing if it’s bad.

It isn’t.

This is a good example of the concept of ‘concentration’ (as opposed to extraction) with very powerful fruit and spice tones on the nose, and, deep, rich black fruit with red fruit and spice nuances on the palate. Nothing feels manipulated, although the new/candied oak is evident, and nothing feels overblown, even though the alcohol is at 15% (and nothing shows it; no heat whatsoever). Concentrated, old-vine fruit can veil a myriad of sins. Good structure, too.

For those familiar with the producer, there was no brett, VA or other obvious contamination and nothing to suggest that there ever would be. There was however, sediment covering every interior surface of the bottle. Now, that’s unfined and unfiltered!

I would love to see this fruit in someone else’s hands . . . like mine, for instance.

2002 Drouhin, Volnay:

Pretty nose that still shows some baby fat; more focused in the mouth with red fruit and mineral flavors, medium concentration and intensity – starting to show some structure; medium finish. Hold

N/V Marquis de Monistrol, Cava Brut Reserva Seletion Especial:

Fruity and earthy at the same time with an exuberant bead and a clean finish. Without question, the best $20 sparkler in the market – except that, it only costs $7.

Best, Jim