Jump to content

  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Côte d'Azur Riviera

Jonathan Day

By Jonathan Day
in France: Dining

 Share

Recommended Posts

Busboy

Busboy

Posted
Posted
In my limited experience the "never trust the food at a restaurant with a view" has been pretty accurate in and around the harbors of the Cote d'Azure.

Come now, surely someone can come up with one example of a restaurant where this is not true? If I was touring through, I'd hate to waste the view... :rolleyes:

I am, like, 0-for-5 on restaurants with a Med/harbor view, with 4 merely mediocre and one aggressively bad (and brutally expensive), though the sunset made up for it.

On one of these threads mentions a great restaurant with a view in, I believe, Eze, but at this point I think "caveat diner" is a good motto.

The view is, indeed, too good to waste -- my wife almost began crying at the sunset we watched quaiside in Villefranche (I didn't cry until I saw the check) -- so I will be delighted to be set right. In the mean time, I'll wager that there are exellent picnic spots to be found and the quaiside cafes are perfect for an apero or three after a hard day of sailing or touring.

I'm on the pavement

Thinking about the government.

John Talbott

John Talbott

Posted
Posted
In my limited experience the "never trust the food at a restaurant with a view" has been pretty accurate in and around the harbors of the Cote d'Azur

I think I'm marginally on topic with this tale originally told to me by Gerald Asher of wine writing fame. He was doing a stage at Sherry-Lehman in NY, prior to assuming the big job and Christmas week 1968 or so a woman of a certain age entered and asked for a specific Italian wine, the label of which she held out. She told of how she had settled into a chair at a table in a resto on the Isle of Capri overlooking the Bay, was approached by a handsome young Italian man, shared a dinner and this wonderful wine, as the sun set over the Bay. Could he get her a case? Of course Madame, said young Asher, but I cannot reproduce the sunset, the view or the young man.

Moral of the story: some meals consist of more than the food, even on coasts like that of the Azur.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

CommissionerLin

CommissionerLin

Posted
Posted
In my limited experience the "never trust the food at a restaurant with a view" has been pretty accurate in and around the harbors of the Cote d'Azur

I think I'm marginally on topic with this tale originally told to me by Gerald Asher of wine writing fame. He was doing a stage at Sherry-Lehman in NY, prior to assuming the big job and Christmas week 1968 or so a woman of a certain age entered and asked for a specific Italian wine, the label of which she held out. She told of how she had settled into a chair at a table in a resto on the Isle of Capri overlooking the Bay, was approached by a handsome young Italian man, shared a dinner and this wonderful wine, as the sun set over the Bay. Could he get her a case? Of course Madame, said young Asher, but I cannot reproduce the sunset, the view or the young man.

Moral of the story: some meals consist of more than the food, even on coasts like that of the Azur.

What a fine story and the moral rings true time and again. I have read Gerald Asher - his "Vinyard Tales" has had me enthralled through repeated readings. I don't know the man personally except by reputation but I know his brother, an investment banker of great repute whom I hold in immense regard.

Carlsbad

Carlsbad

Posted
Posted

Some meals are indeed more than the food. I was very wary of dining in Villefranche before our trip there two summers ago, especially after reading some reviews here. Since we were staying in Villefranche, we decided to try it one night. To my surprise, we enjoyed our dinner at La Mere Germaine so much that we returned several nights later, and enjoyed it even more. The setting was magical and the service was extremely attentive and gracious. The food was very good, if not spectacular- certainly very solid, especially the simple fish dishes. Of course we paid more than we would at a bistro on a side street, but then we were paying for more than the food.

menton1

menton1

Posted
Posted
In my limited experience the "never trust the food at a restaurant with a view" has been pretty accurate in and around the harbors of the Cote d'Azure.

Have to pretty much agree on this one. I have a dim view of Villefranche, it looks so promising yet has proven so disappointing. I've tried several restos there, and none were very good.

I do know of 2 more casual, less serious restaurants with a terrific setting right on the water, though. They won't be getting any Michelin stars, but they are fun.

African Queen, in the Beaulieu port, has tables set among large potted plants, right on the dockside with all the boats bobbbing and the warm breezes blowing. Good, casual food.

Le Cabanon in Cap d'Ail, literally right on a secluded beach dune, a very nice way to spend a lunch or a nice dinner with the waves crashing. Salads, omelettes, and small plates mostly.

I also found a photo of the Marina Baie des Anges, so those who have not seen it can get an idea of just how unusual it really is, especially on the air approach to Nice.

Marina Baie des Anges Apartments

ASM NY

ASM NY

Posted
Posted
For a fine meal, I would recommend La Bastide de St. Antoine in Grasse, I have had some of the best meals of my life in that place (not cheap). I liked it more than the Louis XV, found it to be more laid back. Especially if you can go there for lunch, it's much more affordable, and if you can secure a table in the garden, it's just a great experience.

Not sure if this will "fit" the entire crew you are going with, but a place worth visiting in my opinion is Le Musee de l'Art Culinaire which is in Villeneuve-Loubet, just west of Nice. It's Escoffier's childhood home, and it became a museum in 1966.

Thanks Arley, yes I have heard and read good things about LBdSA and very much want to go there. The thing that's making us think twice is the logistics on how to get 8 people from the marina to Grasse. Are public cabs freely available? Do we take the train? From the miniature maps I'm working with I can't work out whether Grasse is closer to Cannes or Nice. But I will certainly make an effort to visit the Musee de l'Art Cullinaire. Hadn't heard about it before. The "crew" are all foodies so I don't expect anyone to veto this suggestion. Thanks.

There are plenty of taxis, but they are very very expensive. You can take the train, but what I would suggest is a call to the restaurant and find out what they suggest. It is closer to Cannes, just further away from the sea.

Arley Sasson

CommissionerLin

CommissionerLin

Posted
Posted
Some meals are indeed more than the food.  I was very wary of dining in Villefranche before our trip there two summers ago, especially after reading some reviews here.  Since we were staying in Villefranche, we decided to try it one night.  To my surprise, we enjoyed our dinner at La Mere Germaine so much that we returned several nights later, and enjoyed it even more.  The setting was magical and the service was extremely attentive and gracious.  The food was very good, if not spectacular- certainly very solid, especially the simple fish dishes.  Of course we paid more than we would at a bistro on a side street, but then we were paying for more than the food.

Thanks Carlbad. Thats a very sound endorsement for La Mere Germain. We will definitely go there during our stopover in Villefranche. Cheers.

GastroChick

GastroChick

Posted
Posted

I was in this region over Christmas and New Year.

I ate at Jacques Chibois's restaurant, Bastide St Antoine, which was memorable. The truffle menu is exceptionally good, based around simple, fresh products with a distinctive provencal flavor.

On New Years eve we went to La Reserve de Bealieu, they put on a magnificent spread which was also fairly truffle centric. A popping candy desert will always remain with me. The dining room is grand and tres chic so if you go dress for the occasion.

If you go to Nice make sure you get a reservation at La Petite Maison, a nicoise institution, which serves one of the best truffles with scrambled eggs around. The whole roast chicken stuffed with foie gras is also sublime.

La Merende I can also recommend, southern french, peasanty food which has a strong tripe emphasis.

GastroChick
menton1

menton1

Posted
Posted
Thanks Menton, have noted Le Cabanon and African Queen.  Thanks for the photo.  Wow its shimmering curves are reminiscent of the pyramids as seen by Dali.

It's quite an eye-catcher. Surprised it isn't more well-known. From the air, it always means 5 minutes to touchdown. Would love to see the inside of one of the apartments...

CommissionerLin

CommissionerLin

Posted
Posted
I was in this region over Christmas and New Year.

I ate at Jacques Chibois's restaurant, Bastide St Antoine, which was memorable.  The truffle menu is exceptionally good, based around simple, fresh products with a distinctive provencal flavor. 

On New Years eve we went to La Reserve de Bealieu, they put on a magnificent spread which was also fairly truffle centric.  A popping candy desert will always remain with me.  The dining room is grand and tres chic so if you go dress for the occasion. 

If you go to Nice make sure you get a reservation at La Petite Maison, a nicoise institution, which serves one of the best truffles with scrambled eggs around.  The whole roast chicken stuffed with foie gras is also sublime. 

La Merende I can also recommend, southern french, peasanty food which has a strong tripe emphasis.

Thanks GastroChick, I have added La Reserve, La Petite Maison and La Marende to my shortlist. Would love to go to Bastide St Antoine but I fear the logistics of getting 8 pax from the marina in Cannes to Grasse may defeat us. I'll have to consult the rest of the group on this one.

Cheers.

ASM NY

ASM NY

Posted
Posted
Thanks GastroChick, I have added La Reserve, La Petite Maison and La Marende to my shortlist.  Would love to go to Bastide St Antoine but I fear the logistics of getting 8 pax from the marina in Cannes to Grasse may defeat us.  I'll have to consult the rest of the group on this one.

Cheers.

I also love La Reserve, I would recommend however to go for lunch instead of dinner. I found the ambiance to be a lot more laid back and the view is beautiful if you ask to be seated next to the windows.

Arley Sasson

mdbasile

mdbasile

Posted
Posted

I would highly recomend lunch @ Paloma beach in St Jean - wonderful spot. Also there is a nice little but excellent restaurant in St Jean called La Provencal - great food and excellent view.

I have a question, however, what bad news have you heard about Louis XV? it has been a year, but it has been excellent each time we have been there.

La Voile d'Or hotel restaurant on a nice evening is a magical setting with old world charm.

Lastly - Reserve de Beaulieu - is one of the best restauants on the Cote - not to be missed.

Lastly I agree Les Agave in Beaulieu is a nice little spot.

CommissionerLin

CommissionerLin

Posted
Posted
I would highly recomend lunch @ Paloma beach in St Jean - wonderful spot. Also there is a nice little but excellent restaurant in St Jean called La Provencal - great food and excellent view.

I have a question, however, what bad news have you heard about Louis XV? it has been a year, but it has been excellent each time we have been there.

La Voile d'Or hotel restaurant on a nice evening is a magical setting with old world charm.

Lastly - Reserve de Beaulieu - is one of the best restauants on the Cote - not to be missed.

Lastly I agree Les Agave in Beaulieu is a nice little spot.

Thanks mdbasile for the recommendations. Will definitely check out La Provencal and Paloma beach in St Jean. Will look into the others as well. Thanks.

CommissionerLin

CommissionerLin

Posted
Posted
I am probably way behind in finding this on the European Gourmet site and it is probably well-known by frequenters of the South, but there is a guide in French and English of 800 places and 500 products written by Jacques Gantié called the Guide Gantié , 22€ that thery highly recommend.

Thanks John, I managed to Google Guide Gantie and there is an online version, www.guidegantie.com in English to boot!! :biggrin:

Thanks also for digging up the old threads. Most helpful although some are a little dated. The itinerary has been expanded to include Barcelona with a stopover in Roses if we can get reservations at El Bulli (fingers crossed). Do I ask for recommendations for restos in Barcelona or should I post in the forum on Spain?

John Talbott

John Talbott

Posted
Posted
Do I ask for recommendations for restos in Barcelona or should I post in the forum on Spain?

PLease use the Spanish forum. My experience last year was that they were most helpful and I ate like a king.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

mdbasile

mdbasile

Posted
Posted
I would highly recomend lunch @ Paloma beach in St Jean - wonderful spot. Also there is a nice little but excellent restaurant in St Jean called La Provencal - great food and excellent view.

I have a question, however, what bad news have you heard about Louis XV? it has been a year, but it has been excellent each time we have been there.

La Voile d'Or hotel restaurant on a nice evening is a magical setting with old world charm.

Lastly - Reserve de Beaulieu - is one of the best restauants on the Cote - not to be missed.

Lastly I agree Les Agave in Beaulieu is a nice little spot.

Thanks mdbasile for the recommendations. Will definitely check out La Provencal and Paloma beach in St Jean. Will look into the others as well. Thanks.

When you are anchored off St Jean/ Beaulieu - Paloma will send a tender - the tel # is posted - you may need a scope to read it though....

On the other side of Cap Ferrat(the Villefranche side) there is Passable beach - they also will send a tender...

menton1

menton1

Posted
Posted (edited)
I am probably way behind in finding this on the European Gourmet site and it is probably well-known by frequenters of the South, but there is a guide in French and English of 800 places and 500 products written by Jacques Gantié called the Guide Gantié , 22€ that thery highly recommend.

The Gantié is one of my favorite restaurant guides. I love the pithy style. Be advised, that the online edition is only a small portion of the restos listed in the book. If you pass a Librairie in a town you may wish to browse through it or splurge the 15€ for the book. The web site only has a few selected towns. Same with the shopping items.

Edited by menton1 (log)
CommissionerLin

CommissionerLin

Posted
Posted
When you are anchored off St Jean/ Beaulieu - Paloma will send a tender - the tel # is posted - you may need a scope to read it though....

On the other side of Cap Ferrat(the Villefranche side) there is Passable beach - they also will send a tender...

Thanks for the suggestions - sounds exiting already. The boat has 2 tenders so we can also get there ourselves if we can't read the tel no. I don't suppose we need to make reservations at a beach club?

mdbasile

mdbasile

Posted
Posted (edited)
When you are anchored off St Jean/ Beaulieu - Paloma will send a tender - the tel # is posted - you may need a scope to read it though....

On the other side of Cap Ferrat(the Villefranche side) there is Passable beach - they also will send a tender...

Thanks for the suggestions - sounds exiting already. The boat has 2 tenders so we can also get there ourselves if we can't read the tel no. I don't suppose we need to make reservations at a beach club?

Depends on time of year and day of the week.... but you can call that day. If you are there later in May then Paloma is open for dinner, and it is a magical spot... trust me.

There is another really great spot in Cap d'Ail - La Pineade - sea side seafood - be sure to ask for a table on the "open terrace." You moore by Cap d'Ail beach and then I believe you would tender around the point to a little beach there.

Edited by mdbasile (log)
CommissionerLin

CommissionerLin

Posted
Posted

Depends on time of year and day of the week.... but you can call that day. If you are there later in May then Paloma is open for dinner, and it is a magical spot... trust me.

There is another really great spot in Cap d'Ail - La Pineade - sea side seafood - be sure to ask for a table on the "open terrace." You moore by Cap d'Ail beach and then I believe you would tender around the point to a little beach there.

 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...