The Last Supper

[CookingFire]

I am hoping for a some good opinionated ideas on what I can't miss before I depart, from people who've had mind-opening food experiences in this city -- from good tacos to fine dining to the One True Vegetable Stand.

Now that my plane ticket is bought, and clock is ticking down for me, I'm panicked over all the things I've put off for the past seven months, when I felt the indefinite future stretching before me. Now, as my days are numbered, I still know I've only seen the half of it.

Edited August 11, 2005 by CookingFire (log)

[nickarte]

I am hoping for a some good opinionated ideas on what I can't miss before I depart, from people who've had mind-opening food experiences in this city -- from good tacos to fine dining to the One True Vegetable Stand.

Now that my plane ticket is bought, and clock is ticking down for me, I'm panicked over all the things I've put off for the past seven months, when I felt the indefinite future stretching before me.  Now, as my days are numbered, I still know I've only seen the half of it.

←

Will your last meal be comida or cena? If comida, go to Coox Hanal

Isabel la Catolica 83, 2nd floor, near c/Mesones, (Centro Historico)

Have Yucatecan food - Sopa de Lima, Panuchos, Pan de cazon and horchata.

You will be dreaming about this for years...

Or, if you want to have the REAL mole experience, go to a little fonda on calle Delicias, just east of c/Buen Tono, around the corner from the Mercado San Juan. It is VERY FUNKY and small, you can't miss it, trust me, I'm not sending you on a wild goose chase, I'm sorry I don't have the exact address or name, but I think it's Fonda del Buen Tono. They have a sweetish, great, mole poblano served any way you like it, (also in paste form para llevar) and it's only open Monday-Sat. from 1 to 6. Don't be put off by the funkyness.

For Last Supper:

I'm sure you've already done Izote (?)

How about good 'ole Fonda del Refugio? It's still the old time standard, and their mole verde can't be beat.

Or, for a great last "low" experience, there's the Mercado de Antojitos in Coyoacán,

on calle Higuera, just off the main plaza, open to the street. It is open late, til midnight, and they have GREAT pozole and incredible deep fried quesadillas, which are the ultimate heavenly grease-bomb experience, really good and fresh despite their deep-friedness. And good ambiente.

I always felt the way you do, so I ended up moving here and becoming a Mexican citizen: now I NEVER have to leave, but I STILL worry that I havn't eaten everything...

[shelora]

Thanks for the hot tips Nickarte. Will be in D.F. in December and always stay in the Centro Historico, so can check out your recommendations on Isabel la Catolica.

So sorry to hear you are leaving Cooking Fire, I so enjoyed your mercado adventures and photos. But, I know you'll be back.

[CookingFire]

I will going to all those, Nickarte -- time permitting. Thanks for the tips.

I have been to Coox Hanal, if that is the one that used to be very small and on Mesones. My "suegra" took me there a couple years ago -- it was one of the places she would go with her father. I had forgotten about it -- I will definitely make a trip back before I leave. I think I just had panuchos, but I will try Pan de Cazon and Sopa de Lima next time...

I haven't eaten at Izote, and just read about it on your other post. Okay, this is my dilemma -- there are a number of fancy restaurants that I've heard of, and I'm planning on one good, expensive meal before I leave. Should this place be it? I keep hearing about Aguila y Sol, and Contramar. Should I break my budget to try these as well -- or are they up to their hype? Also, should I buy Patricia Quintana's cookbook -- and which?

As for the Mercado de Antojitos, I do love the place. In previous visits I think it was here that I first ever ate huitlacoche in quesadillas, and cesos. There's even a guy there who makes "pornographic hotcakes."

Also I have a question about a previous "recommendation" of El Caguero/Caguamo -- is that a place to try -- or is the name a warning?

[CookingFire]

And Shelora -- thanks for the nice wishes. I will definitely be back. Living here has been a great experience -- though the city can drive me a little crazy. Of all the boards I read on eGullet, the Mexican region is the most laid back and nice and pretensionless. Not to mention the intensity of passion everyone here has for the food.

[nickarte]

Coox Hanal is one and the same place. They moved to a much larger place a couple of years ago, which replaced the old time charm of the old place with ugly new decor, but also eliminated the inevitable wait on the street. And I forgot to mention to order the papadzules....

I would still definitely go to Izote as your splurge, especially as you haven't been there. The other places. Aguila y Sol, MP Bistro etc., are more "international" or "creative" in their menus, whereas Izote is basically presenting traditional Mexican food but gussied up. I think it has set a standard for real appreciation of Mexican cuisine. The ambiente there is less "see and be seen" and more about the FOOD.

As for the books, I have PQ's Antojeria Mexicana which is a beautifully designed book with good recipes; there is one about something like foreign cuisines in Mexico, which is bad and seems , with good reason, yo be remaindered everywhere..

There is a new, intriguing one about moles which seems only to be for sale at Izote but I haven't bought it yet.

Contramar is very good, but less spectacular and wide-ranging in its menu, which is more like "beach" food- it isn't quite as expensive, ie., we usually spend about $250 per person, whereas Izote is more like $350-500, depending on wine and drinks.

El CAGUAMO, its real name, is GREAT and you shouldn't miss it!!!!

Edited August 15, 2005 by nickarte (log)

[caroline]

Nick, all these recommendations sound great. We sshall all be grateful when you bring out your web site on places to eat in the city . . . so many great places hidden away. And Will, we shall miss you among the tiny number of people who post here. so you'd better return,

Rachel