Boston Chinatown Restaurants

[Chris Amirault]

I've been to many, many restaurants in Boston's Chinatown over the years. I've had some horrorshow meals, and a few pretty good ones. But... they were also greasy, usually reheated, and not nearly as good as they should be. Not a single place I've been is even in the same league as our wonderful, humble Lucky Garden here in North Providence.

Why do Boston Chinatown restaurants all seem to be so mediocre? (Boston Chinese restaurants in general, perhaps, deserve the same criticism.) Are there any truly fantastic places and dishes? Don't be telling me about Peach Farm's hot pot chicken or East Ocean City's lobster with ginger and scallion or any of the dim sum parlors, either, chum, 'cause I ain't buying that, no how.

[LindaK]

What do you mean by a great restaurant? It sounds like you're looking for experimental, cutting edge, Michelin star potential. Not in Chinatown or anywhere in Boston. My Chinese friends rave about the Chinese food in Toronto, London, or Hong Kong but would also argue that there's some good stuff to be had here. I've had a few transcendent experiences--scallops w/ garlic on the half shell at Peach Farm could not be better. But the soup dumplings I had in NYC a month ago were no better than the soup dumplings I've had at Taiwan Cafe (both delicious--humble, but so what?).

I'd agree with you that most are mediocre and even that most of the good ones deserve one star at best. My sense is that most have adapted their offerings for what they think Western palates like, the flavors can be very muted. And I wish some of them would do something about the decor too, even the decent ones can be very depressing.

I wish I had time to check out some of the small places in Dorchester or East Boston. While I wouldn't expect fancy, I'd expect to find more vibrant flavors.

[Chris Amirault]

What do you mean by a great restaurant? It sounds like you're looking for experimental, cutting edge, Michelin star potential. Not in Chinatown or anywhere in Boston. My Chinese friends rave about the Chinese food in Toronto, London, or Hong Kong but would also argue that there's some good stuff to be had here. I've had a few transcendent experiences--scallops w/ garlic on the half shell at Peach Farm could not be better. But the soup dumplings I had in NYC a month ago were no better than the soup dumplings I've had at Taiwan Cafe (both delicious--humble, but so what?).

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Golly moses -- I'm not talking about Michelin stars here. I'm talking about stuff that doesn't swim in old grease, chicken that isn't overcooked and dry, pea pod leaves that don't require chicken fat for flavor and umami. I would've ordered that scallop recipe but it wasn't on the Peach Farm menu that night, but given what we did eat, I'm not convinced that would have been transcendent.

However, I do eat transcendent Chinese food very regularly at a place here in RI, and I'm beginning to think we're very spoiled. Save for some great Chinese food I've had in London, nothing compares to Lucky Garden. But Lucky Garden is a very simple place: good ingredients cooked well. Their pork belly isn't an exercise in Keller-esque experimentation; it's just fucking good pork belly. Ditto their char siu bao, scallops and tofu with black beans, and, yep, pea pod leaves.

[LindaK]

hmmm...not sure what to say. I'm no expert on Chinese food but I'm not quite as critical as you are of the local offerings. 2:3 of my visits to restaurants in Chinatown are with Chinese friends who do the ordering, I rarely see a menu. Perhaps that accounts for what seems to be a better experience. My own personal gripe is with Vietnamese restaurants. I discovered Vietnamese food in St. Louis, MO, of all places, and haven't found anything here that doesn't taste bland by comparison with the vibrant food (however simple) that I ate there.

[SushiCat]

Try "Brezhnev's" the actual name is King something and I don't have the address ... SERIOUSLY, this is the best place in Boston's chinatown, it is tiny, maybe 6 tables at most and zero decor (well ok there is some plaque about the best peking duck).

Ok, so I thought it might be King Fung and did a google search, it is King Fung Garden and the address is 74 Kneeland Street. Try this link: http://www.planet99.com/boston/restaurants/14668.html

You think I am joking, but I am not. The things to order are:

Hon Sue Beef

Pot Stickers - big meaty and homemade

scallion cake

peking duck - save room for the third course of soup. note: order your duck in advance.

Shanghai noodles are good

Various rice noodle dishes are good and I think they have either good Ma Po Tofu or something similar.

Once we saw some people really enjoying hotpot - it was a cold Thanksgiving weekend and they were really enjoying it ... but alas I am a sucker for the duck and usually organize my meal around that.

Don't skip the Hon Sue beef, even if you just take it home, it is special and decilious.

[Chris Amirault]

You don't sound kidding at all! This place is worth a try. Thanks!

[Chris Amirault]

Quick update. I spent part of yesterday shopping in Chinatown (largely at the wonderful C-Mart Supermarket on Washington St) and parked across from a small bbq shop at 15 Hudson St. I only had a bit of cash left, so I bought only a pound of char siu, which was outstanding: juicy, flavorful, tender, and no red dye #2. Anyone else been here or know the name? The card says "GREAT B.B.Q." but I'm not sure if that's a name or a descriptor, and the rest is in Chinese characters.