Papaloquelite (or papalo)

[Chris Amirault]

We have a CSA here in Rhode Island, and four weeks ago, instead of picking one of the usual herbs, I chose one I had never eaten, nor seen, nor heard of, which the folks there referred to as "papalo." (From the few mentions here, I understand that the full name is "papaloquelite.") They referred to it as a kind of "Mexican cilantro," which seemed a bit tautological -- and once I popped some in my mouth, I realized it was also reductive in the extreme.

I loved it. While it has some of the profile of cilantro, it is more lemony and practically floral. We sauteed some salmon massaged in Reed Hearon's chipotle rub, threw in some chopped spring onions into the pan after the fish was done, and tossed the onions off heat with shredded papalo and a bit of lime to sit alongside the fish: it was great.

Unfortunately, it turns out that a cabal of ding-a-lings phoned the CSA and basically demanded that they tear it up and plant basil. So, no more papalo from them for this year -- but I'm hunting for more.

The nice folks at Cornell have a great papalo pdf here, and here's a good website on the herb. (Gourmetsleuth.com, on the other hand, has what looks like an incorrect image on their site.)

So: ideas? recipes? seeds? sources? lore?

[theabroma]

I love the stuff. It is not botanically related to cilantro, but my mouth agrees with yours: it has a very similar, yet spicier flavor profile. It often pops up as the green stuff on top of street tacos, huaraches, etc. where we have unimaginatively used shredded lettuce.

Quelitl is the Nahuatl word for what we generically call 'greens.' Papalo means 'butterfly', so it is butterflygreens, based on the shape of the leaves. I think that seeds are available through either Redwood City Seed Company or J.L. Hudson, and possibly through Native Seed Search and the Seed Saver's Exchange. It's great stuff, and as a weed is very easy to grow.

Theabroma

[shelora]

When I was doing a stage with chef Roberto Santibanez in Austin, we made a guacamole using papalo, tomatillos de milpa, serranos and salt. Everything was used its raw state - we didn't cook or roast the tomatillos - all handground on the molcajete. Delicious.

[trillium]

Portland Nursery here in Portland (duh) sells the plants, I think from Log Cabin Gardens? I could check my label at home to be sure.

Funnily enough, the partner thinks papalo tastes similiar to what he calls laksa leaf, or polygonum odoratum in latin. It's pretty tasty used similiarly to epazote. I like dry frying field corn with some onions and garlic and sprinkling it on top with lime. Can't get field corn here, so we make do with sweet corn. We not only use it in a Mexican context, but a Southeast Asian one as well. It's very nice as part of the herb and salad plate you bring to the table with nearly every Vietnamese dish, or sprinkled into anything you might use laksa leaf/rau ram in.

regards,

trillium

[caroline]

I don't have much to add because this is not a herb/quelite used in this part of Mexico. I would second the claim that it's really easy to grow. I have some in a pretty small pot and they self-seed all the time. I just yank out the dying ones and let the new ones come on.

Like everyone else, I've enjoyed the taste. But quite a lot of Mexicans avoid it because although the taste is good the first time round, it tends to "repeat" as the Mexicans politely put it. I don't know if this happens with everyone or is specific to certain physiologies. I've certainly experienced it.

Rachel

[esperanza]

To me, papalo is reminiscent of nasturtium greens. Not quite that peppery, and equally delicious.

[Chris Amirault]

Thanks for all the great replies. Are there any traditional preparations used with it? It seems to be a condiment or addition more than a central element of dishes, from what I'm reading.

[trillium]

A farmer here is growing this too, and he says that the guys who live/work with him on the farm say it's for making green sauce for chicken. I'm assuming this is a roasted tomatillo based dish, but I wish I could talk to them directly!

regards,

trillium

[docsconz]

Thanks for all the great replies. Are there any traditional preparations used with it? It seems to be a condiment or addition more than a central element of dishes, from what I'm reading.

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I just had papalo with cemitas in Puebla. the cemitas from El As de Oros, especially the cemitas milanesaas were incredible. The Milanesa consisted of a wonderfully crusty roll enrobing a breaded and fried pork cutlet, string cheese and avocado. It was bursting at the seems and benefited from just a little papalo as wll as pickled jalapeno and chipotle morita.

Papiloquelite

Cemita Milanesa

Eating my Milanesa. I don't think I have ever had a better sandwich

[molto e]

Doc,

Who has posted in as many forums as your have this year? That sandwich looks delicious, I wish I did not see that-I'm hungry now!!

Nice Pics,

Molto E