[CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 1)

[AlexP]

The Alinea Quatrain.

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That is just freaking outstanding. Thanks a lot Yellow Truffle. Fantastic.

Well, if that is what I think about the photos, I cannot even imagine what would be for me to go to Alinea and have dinner. Some day.

Alex

[snekse]

The Alinea Quatrain.

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That is just freaking outstanding. Thanks a lot Yellow Truffle. Fantastic.

Alex

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I agree, an amazing link. I'm a little peeved that all those pics weren't posted before Just kidding YT.

Actually I think it's interesting to see the evolution (or in some cases the de-evolution) of certain dishes. Most notably the Sour Cream.

You're dedication to sharing your experiences is greatly appreciated by those of us stranded in the desolate culinary wastelands of America.

[docsconz]

Great job YT. It shows the value of photos over time. You have given me reason to photograph again when I return there. I had been thinking that I couldn't add to your work with the camera. While I can't match your quality, I might still be able to add to the evolution. same for others.

[chefg]

Viewing all of the dishes side by side from evolving menus becomes a very unique tool for me to gauge progress and overall style change. As you cook through a year it is very difficult to see progress. We can use tools like these to help us not only keep moving forward but also analyze natural patterns in aesthetics, technique, menu flow, and ingredient combinations. Later this will help us avoid duplicating these characteristics or remind us of the patterns that worked well.

Edited October 21, 2005 by chefg (log)

[snekse]

Viewing all of the dishes side by side from evolving menus becomes a very unique tool for me to gauge progress and overall style change. As you cook through a year it is very difficult to see progress. We can use tools like these to help us not only keep moving forward but also analyze natural patterns in aesthetics, technique, menu flow, and ingredient combinations. Later this will help us avoid duplicating these characteristics or remind us of the patterns that worked well.

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Sounds like you really are on the payroll now YT

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     |            |
     | WILL       |
     | PHOTOGRAPH |
     | FOR        |
     | FOOD       |
     |            |
     ==============

[poq]

yellowtruffle, we were there on the same night! We sat on the second floor, banquette closest to the window.

I'll post my pictures (er, some, since yt seems to have done such a wonderful job) and my comments soon as well.

yt seems to have had some different courses than we did, which makes me slightly jealous.

[cricklewood]

being following the achatz thread since his days in trio, the guy is truly impressive, he is young yet has a clear idea of what he wants to do and from what i have seen of him he knows how to get the best of his staff. Too bad we don't have anything this avant-garde in Montreal, don't get me wrong i'm not slagging anybody but no one is doing food at that insane level here. Although i'm not sure we have the public for it either?

[docsconz]

being following the achatz thread since his days in trio, the guy is truly impressive, he is young yet has a clear idea of what he wants to do and from what i have seen of him he knows how to get the best of his staff. Too bad we don't have anything this avant-garde in Montreal, don't get me wrong i'm not slagging anybody but no one is doing food at that insane level here. Although i'm not sure we have the public for it either?

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Don't fret too much about not having anyone doing anything this creative in Montreal. There aren't too many places anywhere doing food like this.

[chicagowench]

Dinner on Wed. was lovely and mindblowing as expected. i had been to Trio, my colleagues and dining companions had never experienced Chef Achatz's work before, and watching their stunned and joyful reactions was hilarious and awesome. When my colleague sends me the digital pics he took, I'll post.

I send mad props to the captain, who around course #8 for us, murmured, "Miss will be pleased to know the White Sox won."

[mczlaw]

Allow to me join the chorus of praise for this amazing restaurant and its outstanding chef and staff. I had the privilege of dining there solo last Sunday (10/23) for the 12 course menu.

From entry and greeting through my visit to the kitchen and chat with Chef Grant after the meal, the experience compared favorably to the two other highlight meals I have enjoyed in the last year, Tetsuya's and French Laundry.

It was particularly gratifying, as a lone diner, to be treated graciously and even accorded an extra measure of attention. I had a fine seat at a big table in the corner of the larger upstairs dining room. From there, I could soak up the rhythm of the entire room. The trio of servers, and the busser, each demonstrated a high degree of professionalism, including a comprehensive understanding of the kitchen's output down to the most elemental details.

Much has been written in the food forums and food-related blogs about the delight of the food. I experienced that, too. What set Alinea apart, in my experience, is the spirit of whimsy that pervaded the meal. Emblematic was the first course, the celery/curry shell/pear. From my perch, those who were "on the bus" started smiling from the moment they shot, then crunched into this unusual assemblage of tastes and textures. The unique service pieces furthered the sense of gustatory gambol.

In the same vein, this was a meal without pretense. There was none of that obnoxious hushed reverence from the staff nor, worse, the intimation that one should feel (and act) privileged to be seated in such a mecca of fine dining. Instead, the servers seemed to be having as much fun presenting the food as the patrons were eating it.

I have not had reason to visit Chicago for many years. Along with my niece in college at Northwestern and the resurgence of the White Sox, Alinea gives purpose to the trip.

(BTW, favorite dishes: squab stew, bison. Dish I didn't like: the matsutake cake. And, the relatively dry, nonalcoholic French cider I mentioned to my server, but the name of which escaped me, is called Duche de Longueville. It is from Normandy and is distributed in the USA by Europvin U.S.A., Oakland, California.)

--mcz

Edited November 1, 2005 by mczlaw (log)

[docsconz]

Much has been written in the food forums and food-related blogs about the delight of the food.  I experienced that, too.  What set Alinea apart, in my experience, is the spirit of whimsy that pervaded the meal.  Emblematic was the first course, the celery/curry shell/pear.  From my perch, those who were "on the bus" started smiling from the moment they shot, then crunched into this unusual assemblage of tastes and textures.  The unique service pieces furthered the sense of gustatory gambol.

In the same vein, this was a meal without pretense.  There was none of that obnoxious hushed reverence from the staff nor, worse, the intimation that one should feel (and act) privileged to be seated in such a mecca of fine dining.  Instead, the servers seemed to be having as much fun presenting the food as the patrons were eating it.

--mcz

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mczlaw, Welcome to eGullet!

Nice report. I believe that you have captured the essence of the restaurant and its appeal in these paragraghs, precisely what John Mariani didn't get as discussed here.

[mczlaw]

Nice report. I believe that you have captured the essence of the restaurant and its appeal in these paragraghs, precisely what John Mariani didn't get as discussed here.

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Thank you kindly for the welcome. Funny you should mention Mariani. When I was chatting in the kitchen with the maitre d' post-meal, I mentioned how I thought the man (Mariani, not the maitre d') was an ass. I offered that, given all the wonderful dishes I had tasted, I couldn't believe Alinea would serve "limp bacon," and was sorry that that course was not included in my menu.

We continued to chat, and moments later, the bacon course (pig on a flying trapeze?) was offered right there in the kitchen. The strip I ate was perfectly crisp, thank you very much.

--mcz

(N.B. Mariani heaped effusive praise on a restaurant here in Portland that has proven itself to be inconsistent at best. The man has zero credibility.)

Edited November 1, 2005 by mczlaw (log)

[babern38]

I was wondering if anyone here is a vegetarian who has dined at Alinea and done the Tour. I am hoping to go with my vegetarian fiancee and while I know they are accomodating to such needs, I was wondering how the quality/inventiveness/etc. holds up to their meat-containing dishes.

[docsconz]

Nice report. I believe that you have captured the essence of the restaurant and its appeal in these paragraghs, precisely what John Mariani didn't get as discussed here.

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Thank you kindly for the welcome. Funny you should mention Mariani. When I was chatting in the kitchen with the maitre d' post-meal, I mentioned how I thought the man (Mariani, not the maitre d') was an ass. I offered that, given all the wonderful dishes I had tasted, I couldn't believe Alinea would serve "limp bacon," and was sorry that that course was not included in my menu.

We continued to chat, and moments later, the bacon course (pig on a flying trapeze?) was offered right there in the kitchen. The strip I ate was perfectly crisp, thank you very much.

--mcz

(N.B. Mariani heaped effusive praise on a restaurant here in Portland that has proven itself to be inconsistent at best. The man has zero credibility.)

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Great story. I think it conveys the character of the restaurant perfectly.

[ducphat30]

I was wondering if anyone here is a vegetarian who has dined at Alinea and done the Tour. I am hoping to go with my vegetarian fiancee and while I know they are accomodating to such needs, I was wondering how the quality/inventiveness/etc. holds up to their meat-containing dishes.

My wife and I dined with chefg at Trio, he and his staff were more than accomodating to her "aversions and allergies", I would expect that they have the same level of customer service, if not greater. Substituting vegetable courses for dishes she would have had a tough time with. The one suggestion I can give is to make sure that you give the restaurant plenty of notice, like when you are making your reservation, and I am sure you will both have a great time.

Quality and inventiveness were at the same level to their carnivorous counterparts.

ducphat30

[babern38]

I'm curious, I have never heard any mention of a cheese cart or mignardises or parting gifts being served at Alinea. Am I correct in thinking that these things are not done there?

[JWest]

I'm curious, I have never heard any mention of a cheese cart or mignardises or parting gifts being served at Alinea.  Am I correct in thinking that these things are not done there?

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There was a cheese course, when I enjoyed dinner there. As far as a cheese cart or parting gifts, I didnt see anything of that nature at the time.

[nick.kokonas]

I'm curious, I have never heard any mention of a cheese cart or mignardises or parting gifts being served at Alinea. Am I correct in thinking that these things are not done there?

It is a pretty safe bet that you will not see a cheese cart ever wheeling its way around the Alinea dining room. That is not to say that you will not eat cheese... you may. But such a presentation would not fit well with the rest of the meal at Alinea.

Mignardise are more vague. Thus far, the last course of the evening is what Alinea considers a "composed" course... a few bites of a sweet/savory to end the meal. Again, not the equivalent of a traditional chocolate and cookie platter or the like.

However, beginning as soon as next week, you will be taking home a wonderful packaged good that is part of your meal... we expect this to be seasonal, and perhaps fleeting.

[mczlaw]

I'm curious, I have never heard any mention of a cheese cart or mignardises or parting gifts being served at Alinea. Am I correct in thinking that these things are not done there?

It is a pretty safe bet that you will not see a cheese cart ever wheeling its way around the Alinea dining room. That is not to say that you will not eat cheese... you may. But such a presentation would not fit well with the rest of the meal at Alinea.

Mignardise are more vague. Thus far, the last course of the evening is what Alinea considers a "composed" course... a few bites of a sweet/savory to end the meal. Again, not the equivalent of a traditional chocolate and cookie platter or the like.

However, beginning as soon as next week, you will be taking home a wonderful packaged good that is part of your meal... we expect this to be seasonal, and perhaps fleeting.

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.

After finishing the dry caramel/salt "mignardise" at Alinea two Sundays ago, I asked my server if I might have some cheese. Smile and thoughtful look. I was served the idiazabal puff. Now, I'm bummed I didn't wait a couple weeks so I could get the lovely parting gift, too.

--mcz

[snekse]

However, beginning as soon as next week, you will be taking home a wonderful packaged good that is part of your meal... we expect this to be seasonal, and perhaps fleeting.

Can you expand on what you mean by "perhaps fleeting"?

Edited November 4, 2005 by snekse (log)

[chefg]

However, beginning as soon as next week, you will be taking home a wonderful packaged good that is part of your meal... we expect this to be seasonal, and perhaps fleeting.

Can you expand on what you mean by "perhaps fleeting"?

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The honeycomb centerpiece is producing a large amount of unused honey. We decided to squeeze and jar the honey that remains in the comb after the tableside service, and give it to the guests after their meal. ”Fleeting” because around January-Feb. we will be out of honeycombs for the centerpiece concept.

[JWest]

How is the honey comb used in this menu?

[Dave the Cook]

How is the honey comb used in this menu?

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Yellow Truffle explains here.

[nick.kokonas]

some information including current menus can be found here

more to come...

[chefg]

Yes, we hope to keep the site fresh by frequently updating menus and images as things change.

Edited November 7, 2005 by chefg (log)