Wines that 'close down'

[DCMark]

I have been reading some old posts. This one is a gem for learing about Rhone wines:

Rhone

Specifically in this post, Ron Johnson says:

"I think that most good Rhones may be consumed within 2 years of the vintage or after 10 years. It is in between this time that they close down. When I was there last, Barge was making fun of how americans are so serious about properly aging their wine."

Can anyone explain this to me? Why does this happen. How does one know if a certain wine is in this particular stage (besides the obvious date).

This was prompted by a wonderful Cornas I had over the weekend. 1997 Dumien-Serrette Cornas Vielles Vignes.

[DTBarton]

I've not personally experienced a wine that was good the two years after the vintage and then closed down. The reds I've aged have been closed from the start or more accessible from the start.

My only recommendation if you're aging wines is one I've posted before. Do some research on wines from regions you favor in your price range and when you decide to buy, commit to at least 3 bottles. Then you can taste the first one at what you think is a proper time based on grape, producer, etc. Now you have a baseline and can go from there, wait or enjoy. Nothing more frustrating than having one bottle of something 10 or 15 years old. If you're putting the time, money and effort in to aging wine, buy multiples.

In general, I agree that rhones, even very good ones, often shine young. The Rhone grapes are not nearly as tannic and severe as big time cabernet. Lesser Rhones I usually consider to be drink nows, or shortly after I buy them. More expensive Chateau Neufs I find drink very nicely at about 6 - 10 years of age, some go longer. I just finished my 3 bottle stash of 1998 Cuvee du Vatican in about 2 months because the first one I opened was so good, great balance between fruit and structure, time to enjoy.

In my personal experience, red Burgundies are the only wines that have been very unpredictable in the bottle over time, confounding the user by getting better, or worse, on their own schedules. And when Burgundy is bad, man, it's bad!