Italian Wines in 100 Words or Less

[Busboy]

This Sunday the Missus and I will have to negotiate a wine list the size of a phone book with the sommelier -- or his designee -- of Washington's (arguably) finest Italian restaurant. We'll be doing a little woodshedding through other sources, but any quick rules of thumb that you can leave us with ("Pinot Grigio tastes like cat piss"; "Tuscans are overpriced; ________ offer similar tastes and better value;" "Prosecco is for breakfast, only") that will help us speak intelligently with the wine guy will be appreciated.

There will be 30 people, most relatively unsophisticated, many will drink very little, so rather than paying per person for the sommelier to match, we'll probably be buying by the bottle. The budget is not parsimonious, but it would look good to the person who signs the bonus checks if we are not extravagent, either. It will be a multi-course tasting menu, but we will probably not match a wine to every course -- far too fussy for this crowd. Rather, we'll probably get a general-purpose white, something a little more sophisticated for the fish course, and a burly red for the meat.

I know this is vague, but thanks for any general words of wisdom.

[DTBarton]

I think you described your intent very well in your post. Present that description of your priorities and budget to the sommelier and he or she will most likely hook you up.

Hard to get much more specific without seeing the wine list, but you're already on the right track.

[Miguelito]

I would humbly and respectfully suggest that you simply state your desires, your likes and your dislikes (and what your constraints are) simply and plainly to the sommelier in whatever terms make sense to you.

It is the sommelier's job to translate that discussion into wines that you will enjoy, and that will fit within the parameters you identified. No sommelier worth his or her tastevin is going to treat you poorly because you do or do not already know everything they know about wine, or because you do or do not speak about wine in the same, often arcane, terms others might use.

It may seem obvious, but it would probably be best to call and have this conversation at least a day in advance of the big event, so that you can ponder and fine-tune the recommendations if necessary.

In any event, if you are going to Tosca, I can vouch for the approachability, knowledge and helpfulness of the sommelier -- she will take good care of you.

[Brad Ballinger]

Piling on. . .

That's what the sommelier is paid for. And your tip should include a tip for her. I'm wondering if there are other issues at play. For example, do you need to make an impression on someone? Even if the answer is yes, you will make a better impression working well with the sommelier instead of trying to figure it all out on your own.

But if you want to ask some "knowedgeable" questions of her, consider:

1. We'd like a crowd-pleasing white to start off with. Do you have a clean refreshing white or two you'd recommend. My experience is mainly with Pinot Grigio wines, but I'm intrigued to try a Soave Classico or a Falanghina. What do you think?

2. (It will depend on what type of fish course, but) For the fish course, we'd like to ramp it up a little in terms of complexity in the wine. But we'd like to have a wine made from a grape or grapes mostly associated with Italy. Are there some southern Italian whites that would be out of the mainstream, but still have enough acidity to pair well with the food we'll be served?

3. Finally, we want a burly red. Again, it would be fun to stick with something made from grapes associated more with Italy, and not a Tuscan Cabernet. My mind immediately goes to Barolo and Barbaresco, but my mind also goes to the price tags of those wines. Would a Gattinara be a more budget-friendly, and earlier drinking version, of nebbiolo? Or are we better off trying something from the northeast like a Lagrein or Refosco?

Just some thoughts (in more than 100 words). But you get the idea. Use whatever knowledge you have (even if it isn't much) to ask thoughtful questions.

[Busboy]

I'm actually pretty good with knowing how to work with a sommelier. And, if I belived that the sommelier is a good and honest person -- which I'm sure he is -- and that there exists, for every dish, a single, objective, "best " pairing, then putting myself entirely in his hands would not be a problem.

But, having no faith in objective truth, and enjoying the process of negotiating, if you will, the wines, I like to come into the process with a little knowledge of my own. Why? It allows me to express what I want more precisely, and allows me to understand what he is saying more accurately. And, if you say two even reasonably smart things to a sommelier about his wines (cf point three above), or ask a couple reasonably smart questions you will get a more interesting, or perhaps even better, wine for your money. You might even get a splash or two of something special, on the house.

Why? Because you communicate interest and enthusiasm and respect to the sommelier, and he or she will be see you less as a customer and more as a fellow enthusiast (not as a blood brother -- I'm not getting carried away here).

So, I take what I know, flip through Bobby P. for a crash course and come away with some reasoned and nuanced impressions and opinions. But quick and dirty stuff is fun, too. I was actually trying the bring out instinct, long-held prejudices, deep-seated grudges and blind enthusiasms, too, because, what the hell, you only (me, anyway) only get to eat out on the boss so often, and you only get a few minutes a year with someone who knows Italian wines as well as this guy will.

Might as well be able to pick his brains at every level. For me, that's when I learn the most and drink the best.

To tell you the truth, with this crowd, the fact of a private dining room at a nationally-known restaurant, and what I assume will be spectacular service, will count far more than the food and wine as far as impressions go. We're playing for ourselves, my wife's boss (a very good guy), and the five people out of the rest who will hopefully, look up from a conversation about investment banking and say "holy shit this is good. "

So, anyway, everyone should feel free to jump in if they have any advice -- even of the most shallow kind -- to offer.

[redwinegulper]

Sure, I'll throw in my two cents. As the above said, the experts can be very helpful...but if not

For whites...I like the Soave idea, crisp but not too acidic, and well liked by many. There is nothing wrong with a good Pinot Grigio, goes great with fish. I would avoid Chardonnay, I think Italian wines fall short here.

For reds...Barolo as mentioned will probably be too expensive, but the Gattinara or Nebbiolo would be nice choices (all have nebbiolo grape). They will certainly have a large Tuscan selection. Super Tuscans will be big, but too expensive. Carmignano is a nice alternative, it is based on sangiovese like most Tuscan wines like Chianti, but many have other grapes added, and 20% Cabernet can make a very nice blend...but still affordable.

ciao....ed

[Miguelito]

For reds...Barolo as mentioned will probably be too expensive, but the Gattinara or Nebbiolo would be nice choices (all have nebbiolo grape).

←

I second the recommendation of Gattinara. It's a kind of under-appreciated region, and good values can be had as a result. Travaglini is a reliable and well-known producer (now part of Beringer, I think); I look for the "Tre Vigne" selection, which is a bit spicier and more intriguing to my palate than the generic or reserve bottlings.

[Marco_Polo]

What I'd suggest is that you go for a good mid-range white and a good mid-range red each of which has that character so prized by the Italians, tipicità. 'Typicity' does not really translate: it means that a wine tastes of from where it is made, from grape that could have come from there alone and no where else.

The best Italian whites are strong, dry wines to go with food, unoaked (of course), and made from indigenous Italian grape varities. Depending on the wine list, I'd suggest something from Friuli, perhaps an archetypal Tocai del Collio. Or perhaps a good Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Verdicchio is in my opinion one of Italy's greatest indigenous white grape varieties), or a good, unoaked Vernaccia di San Gimignano (but watch out for the 2003s some of which are overly alcoholic due to the exceptionally hot summer). If you're looking to the South, the Falanghina and Fiano grapes can both result in beautifully expressive whites.

For reds, there is no shortage of choice. Barbera is the great workhorse grape of Piemonte, and great examples come from the Langhe vineyards of Alba. Barbera d'Asti and di Monferrato can also be very good and - very important - sensational with rather richer foods. Another undervalued region is Le Marche, and I adore reds such as Rosso Cònero. Look to Puglia for great wines made from the massively characterful Negroamaro, such as Salice Salentino. Aglianico, meanwhile, is (along with Piemonte's Nebbiolo and Tuscany's Sangiovese) one of Italy's greatest red grape varieties. Sensational examples come from poor, remote Basilicata as well as from Campania.

DINGGGGGG

Oh, have I exceeded one hundred words. Sorry. I'll shut up and pour myself a glass...

MP

[hathor]

Blind enthusiasm checking in!

I was recently introduced to the Verdichhio dei Jesi that is mentioned upthread. Its fabulous... I can still taste it on my tongue. Bit flinty, fruity, crispy. Excellent with some fish.

There are also some lovely Grechetto's from Umbria that are outstanding paired with fish.

More enthusiasm than tech knowledge....

[Coop]

White, Inama Soave 2002

Red, Nero' d"Avola from Sicily (Cusamano, Morgante, Donnafuggata).

Try saying something like " I hear they are doing great things with native grapes in Sicily". Let the wine person take it from there.

[TongoRad]

More blind enthusiasm:

You could get some Chianti Classicos that are quite nice without going the route of the Supertuscans, and they would probably be more food friendly in an all-around sense. They'll also keep your budget in check, and perhaps even serve as a step up to something bigger. I've long been fond of Castella DiAma and Castellare. I think they retail in the $30-$40 range.

My father is a Barolo nut, so I've had exposure to quite a few of them in all price ranges (even Giacosa, Marchese, etc.). An affordable one that we enjoy is Ceretto's Zoncherra (sp?)- something to keep an eye out for. The Prunotto Barbaresco is also quite good- I think I like that one better, actually (not as musky as the Barolo).

I also like the idea of looking into a Barbera or a wine from Salice Salentino, that's actually what I drink the most of. Michele Chiarlo does a great job on a Barbera at the $10 retail price point. Stefano Farina makes a really good one called Silenzio. Taurino has a heck of a Salice Salentino. Great values, all.