The Zero-Six Fete de la Gastronomie:

[Steve Plotnicki]

Freida-I checked the map out on the Le Garde-Frienet website and I noticed that the village is right near the town of La Mole. Though I've never been, I have friends who rave about Bistrro La Mole. It's been on my list of places to get to for a while. What do you think?

[cabrales]

Last night, on local Gourmet-TV, Reine Sammut, of Auberge de la Fenière in Lourmarin, Vaucluse, . . .

FriedaL -- If you'd like to discuss it, I'd appreciate your views on Sammut vs. Loubet, and how they rate relative to one another. For once, the French female chef is significantly overrated.

Sammut has one star, and that is appropriate (in an absolute sense) in my mind (despite my never having particularly appreciated her cuisine).  She receives quite a lot of media coverage, and has a book published. It is also appropriate that Loubet (for other members, whose restaurant is also located in the smallish village of Lourmarin) has two stars.  He is in my mind one of the strongest two-stars in France (together with J-M Lorain at Cote Saint-Jacques, Joigny, and O Roellinger at Cancale -- two restaurants Fat Guy has mentioned elsewhere -- and excluding M Meneau; no information on E Jung). Yet compare Michelin's commentary on the two restaurants (roughly translated):

Sammut -- "A *graceful culinary haven*, facing the mountains of Luberon. You will appreciate, apart from the table [i.e., the cuisine], elegant rooms decorated along themes of artistic trades."

Loubet -- "A vaulted dining room with exposed old stones and the remnants of a mill. Ravishing terrace. *The herbs, aroma and flavors of Luberon fill your plate*."

Reading the two commentaries, one might believe the restaurants are more comparable than they are.   :confused:

[cabrales]

Their specialty was/is pigeons, since they also owned a pigeon elevage just outside the village.

FriedaL -- Speaking of pigeons and appreciating that palombes may not be popular to pursue in your particular geographic area (even though they are from the South broadly), do you have any input on palombes? I tasted them in Paris during 4Q 2001, at a tiny bistro, and the meat did not leave a strong impression on me. (General note: I have also seen palombe on the menu at Helene Darrozze in Paris, during the right season).

The marron glacee ice cream from your locality sounds good. I have to admit to having been disappointed by the marron glacee flavor of Berthillon ice cream, although I did not take it at a Berthillon store, but only at a Paris cafe that sold such ice creams. I had heard so much about this flavor, and also about the frais des bois (wild strawberry) variety, beforehand. I have yet to taste Berthillon's frais des bois, which (together with blood orange, certain peeled green grapes, and cherries, particularly Rainier) are my favorite fruits.  

Also (and apologies for all the questions), do you cook with Menton lemons?

[John Whiting]

La Colombe Joyeuse, owned by a Belgian, not Dutch proprietor.

David de Scheemaecker had it when I was there. It sounds Dutch and I thought he said he was Dutch, but you would know better than I!

I'm both glad and sorry to hear that that the village is being discovered. In 1996 it seemed just on the edge -- not exactly sleepy, but not long awake. I did include it in my French travel book, but I'm sure I'm not responsible for its sudden success.  

[FriedaL]

Cabrales,

I haven't yet visited La Moulin at Lourmalin. It's a day trip from here to the Luberon, no sweat from an American perspective, but locally it means some planning. One day...

Even though Reine Sammut might get mixed press, she's still a formidable woman chef among others. It's very hard for women in France to  make a mark, 100 times more difficult than in the States, even though most French chefs claim to have been inspired by the cuisine of their mother or grandmother.

Lemons here are mainly from Spain, in season indeed from Menton. Sometimes I receive a batch from a friend in Naples, the very best.

Frieda

[FriedaL]

Hello John,

David is still in charge of La Colombe Joyeuse. he's Belgian/Flemish, which is a bit diiferent from Dutch (my provenance). There's a bit of rivalry between the two sides, to say the least. I have to admit that when it comes to pure linguistic challenges (a popular contest on Dutch TV), the Flemish most always beat the Dutch!

Frieda

[FriedaL]

Steve,

The Auberge de la Mole is now very well known in the region. I had dinner there more than 8 years ago, and remember their confit de canard, perfect. At the time we stumbled on this non-descript place, with a gas pump outside (no longer working) from the 40's or 50's. We stopped for a drink on our way home from Porquerolles. The outdoor terrace was as many in Provence, rough tables, a newspaper left behind, filled ashtrays. But the waft that came from the kitchen, where they were preparing dinner, was so inviting. We returned and loved it.

In the meantime, the auberge has been written up by Peter Mayle in one of his later books, and as a consequence over-run by his fans. When all the hype has died down, I'll go back. My motto for a good local restaurant is: good service, reasonable prices and, above all, local ingredients cooked with amour.

Frieda

[robert brown]

Cabrales, if I had been more venturesome. I would have proposed for our dinner together the newly-promoted-to-two-stars Hostellerie Jerome in La Turbie that is the unofficial shrine to the Menton lemon. I had delicious San Remo prawns in a lemon sauce and an unusual and delightful confit slice of the lemon. Then as a follow-up dessert, they serve a terrific Menton lemon sorbet in a scooped out lemon, just like those Motta sorbets in frozen lemon or orange skins, but infinitely tastier:not icy or tart.

I have been meaning to post about the restaurant, but if I don't, people take note. It's coming on very quickly.

I have to agree with you about Lourmarin. Two meals at La Feniere showed uneveness, with the first meal mediocre and the second meal quite good. Edouard Loubet, on the other hand, shows his pedigree (Chapel and Veyrat among others) with great finess and imagination. I'll be going back soon for sure.

Frieda, what do you like down there?

[cabrales]

Hostellerie Jerome in La Turbie that is the unofficial shrine to the Menton lemon. I had delicious San Remo prawns in a lemon sauce and an unusual and delightful confit slice of the lemon. Then as a follow-up dessert, they serve a terrific Menton lemon sorbet in a scooped out lemon

robert -- This restaurant sounds so promising! Lemon might an underutilized ingredient in its interesting non-dessert forms (obviously excluding lemon juice for fish, etc.).

Are members aware of any NYC, London or Paris restaurants that make good use of lemon in such forms?

[John Whiting]

Are members aware of any NYC, London or Paris restaurants that make good use of lemon in such forms?

Here's a recipe that's served Chez Merlan:

LEMON CHICKEN WITH GARLIC (for 8)

8 chicken legs (thigh and drumstick)

juice and grated rind of 1 lemon

2 tbsp fresh thyme, chopped

80-100 ml olive oil

salt and pepper

1kg baby new potatoes

1 lemon, thinly sliced

12 large cloves garlic, peeled or unpeeled

Preheat oven to 180ºC. In a bowl toss together the chicken, lemon juice and rind, thyme and olive oil. Add the potatoes (may be cracked open) and mix well to coat. Season. Spread the chicken and potatoes out in a large baking tray or dish. Tuck in the lemon slices and garlic cloves and bake for about 50 minutes or more, basting occasionally. (If the chicken browns too quickly, cover the dish with foil.) Serve with a tossed green salad with a mustardy dressing.

That comes from Petra Carter, a lovely food writer who helps Dublin to be so liveable.

[FriedaL]

Robert,

What I do in the region?

I look for affordable places in Provence with "honest" cuisine and lots of ambience. I can recommend the best pizza from the truck with wood-burning oven at the market in Saint-Tropez (Tuesday and Saturday morning).  But that's just a snack to take you to Senequier on the harbor for the best people and mega yacht watching in the world, and an expensive coffee service.

But for more serious dining, still within budget:

Le Logis de Guetteur (in Les Arcs, Var):

A restaurant, established in a cave in the medieval part of the village. This may sound pretentious amd for that reason I held off for a long time. But when I finally lunched there I was convinced. A Dutch chef friend of mine (who has recently received his first Michelin star) claimed it was star quality.  I had Fleurs de courgettes in such a light batter (and believe me, that can go wrong). Followed by dos the sanglier, not as strong as daube de sanglier (wild boar), just pefect. The service (including sommelier who was very informative about Cotes de Provence) was correct. Alas, we overstayed our meal. When my friends urged for a coffee and cognac, the only - young - waitress left (the rest must have succombed to their sieste) filled the cognac glasses to the rim. The designated driver winced and left his glass untouched. To be fair for Le Geuetteur, cognac is not a usual après in the region.

Prices menu: starting 25 euro,  w/out wine

Aside: Les Arcs and close by Taradeau offer one of the best Cotes de Provence wines, though my favorite is La Giscle, a small domaine nearby Cogolin. Shh, a little secret. They make wine without adjcectives, win prizes, export to other European countries., decided not to export to the US because of of all the lable requierments. It's a family-run operation.

Auberge du Lac, Bauduen

With a view of Lac Ste Croix (a huge man-made lake, filled by EDF in the 70's with the dam farther down) you find a sympa restaurant with all the ingredients of the local terroir, often embellished by the truffe found nearby. (The winter truffle market of Aups is renowned.) The deco in the restaurant is very Provencal, the plats varying from simple bavette to civet. Service is charming.

Prices menu: starting 25 euro, w/out wine

Hostellerie du Couvent Royal (St-Maximin la Sainte Baume)

I have to admit, I'm fond of this place, if only for the historical surroundings. There you are, eating in the cloisters of a 13th C. convent, whose Dominicans safeguarded the relics of Mary Magdalene in the adjacent Basilique for centuries. The chef is very much 21st century with delicate plats that change by day, A light cuisine, fragant with truffes. Not expensive for lunch. The convent has also been converted to a hotel with reasonable prices.

La Fouquette (Les Mayons-Var)

This is an example of Repas à la Ferme. The French government allows farmers to set up a simple restaurant (no outside help allowed), providing that most of the ingredients come for their farm, and giving them tax-breaks as a consequence. My close-by neighbor had such a restaurant until recently (in the Guide Gantié). Alas, he closed down a year ago, otherwise I would have included his place here. His dinners were copious with rabbit, duck, or chicken from his own farm. La Fouquette is similarly run, by the daughters of another of my  neighbors.  

More later,

Frieda

[robert brown]

Frieda, thanks so much for the recommendations.  Le Logis des Guetteurs is a restaurant a friend of ours in Les Arcs took us to a few years ago. We liked it a lot. I like the idea of a farm restaurant. Last summer I drove from Nice to Rocquebrun s/Argens to check out this cheese "affineur", Robert Bedon. He only sells wholesale now, but he supplies a food store in the town. I would have to say that I missed the main event by some months. Do you know the fellow? Keep the names coming. Have you any places in St. Tropez you like? I need addresses in your neck of the woods since we are in the Var fairly often.

[Bux]

FriedaL, I find your contribution to my knowledge of pieds et paquets, as well as chataigne et marrons invaluable.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

From Bux:

pieds et paquets...I have a memory of lamb's feet and tripe being involved.... I also thought that it involved the feet along side the packages which are stuffed pieces of tripe...

Exactly.  Sammut's "La Cuisine de Reine" describes braising stuffed, rolled and tied pieces of lamb tripe and blanched and flambed lambs' feet with herbs, garlic, white wine and tomato for 7 1/2 hours. At this point the feet are boned, the cooking juices reduced, and the meats returned to the juices for a final gratin.

After poring over her book at home, I ordered this "local color" dish at La Feniere, and was appalled after my first bite.  It was probably the most singularly disgusting taste I had ever encountered, and I order this kind of stuff often.  (The night before I had had a wonderfully comforting plate of tripe at a small bistro in Lourmarin.)  At any rate, I managed to finish my portion of P&P, but was not able to eat another bite at that dinner, soothing my insulted system with the rest of the wine and bubbly water.

The following year when we were in the area, I had to "massage the wound" by ordering pieds et paquets at L'Antiquare, which is owned by ex-employees of Sammut who struck out on their own in her previous venue in Lourmarin. To my relief, their rendition lacked the gross undertones I found objectionable at La Feniere.

At this point, I am not a convert nor do I feel compulsed to research this dish further.    

[robert brown]

Margaret, you were with us in spirit at Maximin (sorry if you also did not like the food). I said to my tablemates that you seem to have disappeared from the site. Is it my imagination or what?

[Margaret Pilgrim]

We haven't been home much, Robert: in France end of March/early April, home but jetlagged, a week in the country and just this week back to a reasonable schedule, although we leave for the east coast midweek.  A steady job actually sounds restful.  Will post on Pays Basques as soon as I get myself and notes in order.  Thanks for the inclusion at your joyous party!  

[cabrales]

After poring over her book at home, I ordered this "local color" dish at La Feniere, and was appalled after my first bite.  It was probably the most singularly disgusting taste I had ever encountered

Margaret -- I'm sorry to say I think it's a problem with Sammut, not a problem with the dish itself. That being said, I haven't sampled the dish sufficiently to say with indicate the aforesaid with any conviction.  :confused:

Consider Loubet -- much, much better. I don't understand why people aren't struck by the marked difference after the first meal at each place.  

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Cabrales, I have no doubt that you are entirely correct, particularly after my second encounter with the dish at another dining room.  I have the awful thought that perhaps the difference was simply one of the number of soakings and blanchings. Scary.  I am very philosophic about this dish: there are far too many dishes out there that I haven't tried for me to invest any more evenings with this plate!  

[Steve Plotnicki]

I ate at La Feniere this past February when we were on our truffle trip. There were five of us traveling together but two dropped out for this dinner because their car was broken into.

The place was lovely, but like many places in France with a star it was too formal in an old fashioned kind of way. In fact I'm not sure if it was just this particular night but we seemed to be the only people dining there who were not in their 60's.  I think the three of us were the only men not wearing ties.

We had the truffle menu which was a reasonable 100 euros for something like 8 courses. The food was what Patricia Wells often calls "correct." Some dishes were more interesting than others. The food aspired to two stars from the perspective of the technique applied, but probably merited only one when awarding stars on the basis of ultimate taste. I have not eaten at Loubet, but I have to assume he is better than Sammut. I think Sammut would be much more enjoyable if she cooked hearty and simple Provencal cuisine that didn't aspire to that second star. I think in her kitchen the additional application of technique actually removes flavor from the food.

A note about the service here. When we first arrived for dinner

the reception was rather cool. They stuck us at a table all the way in the corner of the back room facing the window which was sort of odd because it was nightime and dark. We were also the only people eating in the room. I actually got up and asked them to move us to the main dining room which they did. Then we had a run-in with the sommelier. I tried to order a bottle of I believe it was 1985 Nicolas Joly Savenierres Coulee de Serrant which was priced quite reasonably. This order (a deft one on my part I thought) brought a frown to the sommeliers face and he said the wine needed 2 hours decanting time and he didn't want to serve it to us.  And although I could have insisted, he was pretty adamanant so we shrugged and ordered a 1989 Sauzet Batard Montrachet instead. The wine was fine (I've had better bottles of it) but in hindsight I felt stupid about it. This guy must sell thousands of bottles of wine that aren't ready to drink all of the time and he doesn't say boo. But this time he chimed in. And I'm certain it's because he has certain bottles of wine on the list to make it look good. He  doesn't really want to sell them. I just zeroed in on one of the bottles. Anyway, after we ordered the Batard-Montrachet, and a bottle of 1980 Vogue Musigny VV ($600 of wine) everyone seemed much happier with us.

[ajay]

Sorry for the digression, but I'm curious...why would a bottle require two hours time to decant?  Is it intrinsic to this particular producer?  Or was this a complete red herring?

[Steve Plotnicki]

Ajay-Wine needs time to aerate for a number of reasons. For young bottles of wine, they usually have a high proportion of tannic acid in them. Tannins are an acid that is in the skin of the grape and gets into the wine when they press the grapes.

When you open a bottle and let it aerate,  the tannic acid burns off and you are left with fruity wine. This phenomenon is different from wine to wine, vintage to vintage, even bottle to bottle given the same wine and vintage.

The thing that usually impacts the most on this issue is who made the wine. Traditional producers like Beaucastel in Chateauneuf du Pape will always make a wine that is closed (tannic) when young. If you were to open say a bottle of 1998 Beaucastel, it might take 48 hours for it to be enjoyable.

As for older wines like the one I wrote of, they still might be highly tannic. But more likely the fruit and has been repressed by having lived in a near vacuum (in bottle) for the last 16 years. In that instance, it could easily take 1-2 hours for the wine to "wake up" from the long sleep it's had.

[Beachfan]

The dinner at Maximin sounds a little like the "new cruelty" practiced at Restaurant L'Idiot in LA Story.

Maybe it's the old cruelty when taking place in the old world.

PS A gold star to anyone who can name the actor playing the Maitre d' at L'Idiot in the movie.

[cabrales]

If you were to open say a bottle of 1998 Beaucastel, it might take 48 hours for it to be enjoyable.

As for older wines like the one I wrote of . . . . it could easily take 1-2 hours for the wine to "wake up" from the long sleep it's had.

Steve P -- In view of the need for decanting for such significant periods (even 1-2 hours would be lengthier than available at restaurants, in many cases), are there white Burgundies or white Bordeaux that one should not choose at restaurants due to inadequate decanting time?

[cabrales]

Steve P -- Please see the above post.  

[robert brown]

Cabrales, the only time I ever dealt with a decanted white Burgundy was at Le Louis XV where the sommelier decanted a magnum of a 1989 Francis Jobard single-vineyard Meursault. (This was in 1997). If you decant a white wine, you will pretty much knock it back to room temperature. Knowing if and when to decant even red wine is a matter than never has had any hard and fast rules. I certainly would not decant a ready-to-drink good white wine. I suspect that until recently it was rare to decant them. Perhaps this is a new wrinkle like some makers of chardonnay advising the use of 'balons" from which to drink their wine.