WTN: Recent Whites

[Veloman]

Some recent whites . . .

San Michele, Doltetto, Roero Arneis, Piemonte, 2003: A light amber/gold color, this shows some melon and vaguely nutty aromas; on the palate it is ripe, round, medium bodied and balances the fruit with firm acidity, and a very slight hint of mineral/earth on the finish. We've gone through close to a case in the past few months because this pairs so well with a range of foods--very versatile and consistent.

Le Pavillon, J. Christopher, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2003: Jay Somers continues to impress, especially with whites. This is a field blend of 65% pinot gris and 35% chardonnay from the Le Pavillon vineyard. The nose of this wine is absolutely captivating, just leaps out of the glass with tropical fruits. The label boasts "no oak, no malo," and it shows in a good way on the palate--tons of juicy fruit (apples, pears, hint of guava), with a very crisp, mineral edge and firm structure. Long, clean, lean finish. Beautifully made, and very distinctive.

Le Petite Chambord, Francois Cazin, Cheverny, Loire, 2003: Another everyday white that goes well with a wide range of food. I usually drink little sauvignon blanc, often finding it either too grassy or too harshly acidic. This 2003, however, reflects the warm growing season of 2003. It's ripe and plump, showing a lot of fruit (with a citrus and pear flavor profile), while maintaining a backbone of acidity to keep things in balance. Another in a string of 2002 and 2003 Loires that provide a lot of pleasure and great value.

Cheers,

Tom