Five and Ten, Athens GA

[Tonyy13]

5 & 10 Restaurant, Athens, GA

Half-Shell Oysters- Champagne & Shallot Mignonette, Cocktail Sauce, Sesame Crackers

Oysters Bienville- 5 Coldwaters Baked with Mushrooms, Bacon, Shrimp, Chiles, Shallot

Local Lettuce- Marinated Feta, Ruby Red Grapefruit, Toasted Hazelnuts and a Hazelnut Oil Vinaigrette

Spinach Salad- Gorgonzola, Spiced Pe ans, Pear, Shallot Thyme Vinaigrette

Really Good Caesar Salad- Romaine Hearts, Apple Bacon, Crutons, Real Parmesan

White Bean and Fennel Soup- Proscuitto, Roasted Tomatoes, Parmesan Shavings

Butter Poached Lobster- In a Bowl of Red Mule Grits, Wilted Frisee, Balsamic Brown Butter

Torchon of Foie Gras- Bread and Butter Piclkes, Peppered Mango, Onion Jam, Crostinis

Breseola of Beef Tenderloin- Pantalleria Capers, Roasted Pepper Agrodolce, Grilled Flatbread

Housecured Gravlax- Pistachio Oil Vinaigrette, Toasted Pistachios, Endive and Citrus Salad

Hand Cut Pasta Ribbons- Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Jalapenos, Basil, Fresh Mozzarella

Potato Gnocchi- Wild Mushroom Ragout, Fresh Basil, Shallot, Pecorino Romano

Lowcountry Frogmore Stew- Georgia Shrimp, Fingerling Potatoes, Leek, Fresh Corn, Andouille Sausage

Roasted Scottish Salmon- Grain Mustard Emulsion, Roasted Pepper Fregula, Brussel Sprouts

Crisp North Carolina Trout- Warm Baocn Vinaigrette, Fennel Slaw, Crisp Spaeztle, Braised Nappa Cabbage

Grilled Prime NY Strip- Creamed Spinach, Fondant Potatoes, Maitre D' Butter, Bordelaise

Roasted Bell and Evans Chicken Breast- Maitake Mostarda, Squash Casserole, Braised Leeks, Tarragon Jus

Pork and Beans Redux- Grilled Tenderloin, House Baked Beans, Pear Chutney, Baby Carrots, Port Reduction

Rosemary and Garlic Braised Lamb Shank- Roasted Carrots and Parsnips, Soft Polenta, Pine Nut and Mint Salsa Verde

Cheese (Cause We Love Cheese...)

Well, I have to tell you guys, that this was one of the better meals that I have had in a while. I went this last week, it was the second time that I have had dinner there. I went with my girlfriend and a mutual friend of ours who wasn't really a foodie, so I was interested to see what she was going to order.

I ordered an antipasto special platter that they had for the table to share, as well as 6 oysters (from up north, a hot commodity that for some reason we can't seem to find in Orlando) for myself, as well as the foie gras terrine for myself (glutton.... ). The cocktail sauce that came w/ the oysters was thin, but good, just wish it would have been a little bit thicker. Slammed them, in no time, and then started on the fois gras. I think that the chef thought that I was someone important or something , becuase I got the biggest portion of foie gras that I have ever had in a restaurant. It must have been a torchon about 2 inches across, and he gave me two slices that must have been 1.5 inches long each!! The torchon was creamy as hell, so nice, but needed a little bit of seasoning, didn't taste like much. It was a great match w/ the bread and butter pickles, a match that I wasn't expecting to work as well as it did.

My gf had the Frogmore stew, somethign that her mother had last time we dined there, so I was aware of what a nice dish it was. It is the chef's (Hugh Acheson) signiture dish when he won Food and Wine Magazine's Top Ten Best New Chef's Award in 2002. It is a combo of this spicy broth w/ gorgeous Andouille sausage that is plump, and the only downside to the dish is that it comes w/ corn on the cob, and it is set in a bowl, which makes it hard to cut (as my gf found out, splattering the great tasting sauce (but not too great-looking -on-clothes) all over her J.Crew blazer. Our friend had the gnocchi, which I almost also ordered, and I wished that I had. The gnocchi were fluffy as pillows in heaven, and the ragout was full of flavor that was just so well formed. The Pecorino was the perfect match, with the nice piqueness of the tart cheese. I had the scottish salmon, which was nice, but I wish that the portion was a little bit bigger. I asked for the salmon to come Medium rare, and it came medium well, but I was having such a good time, it didn't really matter. The mustard emulsion worked well with the fregula, which was similar to an Italian cous cous like pasta. The Brussel sprouts, which I only usually like roasted, were tender and flavorfull sauteed.

The girls loved dessert, which I can't remember what they ordered, and I had cheese, which was a nice change from the Ho-Hum cheeses that seem to float around Orlando.

Hugh came out to the table to say hello, which was a very nice gesture on a Friday night (although it wasn't that busy). He seems like a really cool guy, a class act, who hasn't let his success go to his head. I had made the reservation the day earlier at about noon time, stopped in to make it as I was enjoying the five points area (specifically Jittery Joes, another establishment that deserves a praising thread), and Chef Hugh was the person who took it from me. They are not open for lunch, so it was nice to see the Chef was there early, making sure that everything was cool. I feel like places like this need to have their praises sung from the highest mountain, as they inspire those of us who love to cook to be better cooks, and better eaters. Any info or comments about this great place would be great.

[gaf]

I just returned from three days in Athens and environs, and made my usual delicious visit to Weaver D's (fried chicken, field peas, squash casserole, and sweet potato souffle). Automatic for the People! Their neighborhood has gotten more spiffy, and after construction is completed, it will be even spiffier. I also had some fine Brunswick Stew at Hot Thomas's in Watkinsville and at Zeb's in Danielsville (the latter more of a burgoo stew; the former more pure spiced meat). Unfortunately neither Hot Thomas nor Zeb's has truly first rate BBQ (the first specializes in tomato based BBQ [although one can get vinegar based, which reveals a surprising lack of commitment, much like a bar with Cubbie and Sox memorabilia] and the latter is vinegar based, although not as pungent as in eastern Carolina).

The revelation on the trip was a new (or perhaps not so new) high-end restaurant in Five Points: Five and Ten. As noted by Tony, the chef is Hugh Acheson, formerly executive sous chef at Gary Danko in SF, who followed his partner to Athens. For good and for ill, the restaurant does not have either the pretensions or the ambition that it might have, but it is by a long-shot the best restaurant in Athens, and among the best in Georiga. We were told in no uncertain terms that we need not wear jackets and ties, and that the restaurant aspired to be a local neighborhood restaurant. Well, that is a bit disingenuous, but it certainly does not have the airs of Restaurant Gary Danko.

We had a superb Oyster Stew, divinely flavored with saffron and fennel. The best main course (of the three) was Lowcountry Frogmore Stew (Georgia shrimp [Georgia shrimp?], local fish, fingerling potatoes, leek, corn, and andouille sausage. Very satisfying. The blackened redfish with roasted pepper farro, artichoke, asparagus, and lemon emulsion was quite good, although by no means as assertively spiced as a New Orleans blackening. Less successful (a bit of a mess, actually) was red grouper with a boiled peanut buerre blanc (!!!), grits, fennel slaw, and roasted tomotoes. Like so many young chefs, there is a sense that the more ingrediants one throws in a pot, the better it is. Beware: no chef should be allowed to include more than ten ingrediants without a license.

We skipped desserts: ginger creme brulee, warm chocolate soup, and strawberry baked alaska.

Hugh Acheson is a young chef worth watching, and 5&10 is the only serious restaurant in Athens. The question is whether its ambitions will remain local or whether this is a place in which the chef is experimenting with southern products in preparation for greater glory.

[Tonyy13]

I too was actually in Athens this last week, sorry I missed you gaf, but we stopped by 5 & 10 to see how the menu looked, and it looked great. Unfortunately, due to my low budget at the time, we were unable to eat in the restaurant, even though they are now offering a very inexpensive prixe fix menu for $20 a head (3 courses from a choice of 2 set menus). The menu looked great, and while I thought that some of the dishes were a stretch, I was interested enough in them to want to order them, but not so turned off by the addition of a few extra ingredients that it made me not want to try them. He is pushign the envalope wiht ingredients that we all love. Boiled peanut Beurre Blanc? I am telling you, NO ONE is doing that.

Hugh's food is so very clean, every time that I have had dinner there (3 times now, not bad for an out-of-towner) the food has been super concise with very clean flavors. It is kind of a neighborhood restaurant, and while i have neve rdined at Danko's, I am sure that is is more relaxed, with the staff, both FOH and BOH showing off their body art along with their culinary knowledge. Last time I dined, Hugh sent out a huge piece of foie ballantine, I think he knew that I was a foodie or a chef because of the way that we orderd (one of almost every appetizer, shared through the table, and 3 entrees for the two of us to split). Sometimes, the kitchen's cooking is a little bit off, see above review, overcooked salmon, and that foie was underseasoned on the inside, but other than that, it is an awesome experience.

I was dissapointed when I first posted that not many viewed the link, I really want to give this guy the credit he deserves. He is a normal guy, no sort of hype in him at all, I saw him at the bank last week, and was too embarassed to say hello, he is just great though.

They have a great piece of art on the wall too, where the artits has taken several ties and sewn them together to form a circle, kind of like a multi-colored black eyed susan pattern, it looks really cool.

C'mon EG'ers in the Athens or Atlanta area, you guys have to get to see this guy, one of the best in the region. I travel 7 hours from Orlando to eat there, you guys need to make sure you check it out!!

[Gifted Gourmet]

Okay, okay! I will make the culinary 'pilgrimage' to Acheson's mecca to see why the rave notices are coming in ... here is the website, should anyone be interested in details .. the red wine list is nothing short of incredible!

Five and Ten website

[therese]

I was dissapointed when I first posted that not many viewed the link, I really want to give this guy the credit he deserves....C'mon EG'ers in the Athens or Atlanta area, you guys have to get to see this guy, one of the best in the region.  I travel 7 hours from Orlando to eat there, you guys need to make sure you check it out!!

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Atlanta's got a very active local dining scene, Tony13, both on and off-line and as a result there's rather less activity here on eGullet than there'd otherwise be. Five and Ten's well known (it does routinely make Atlanta restaurant critics' "best of" lists, along with Alix Kenagy's Cargo in Brunswick). So not to worry that he's not getting sufficient recognition.

It's a long way to drive for dinner (1.5 hours for me) and an even longer drive back, particularly for those of us who live in Atlanta, as it means we're driving past about a bajillion great restaurants on our way out of town. I'm driving to Athens today, but won't be able dine there because of the timing. I may manage next Friday, when I return.

That said, Acheson's very talented. He's Canadian, so it's interesting for me to hear somebody with a distinctly non-southern accent to talk about the local ingredients, but he uses them well. There are a number of organic farmers in the Athens areas and he makes a point of using their produce.

The best main course (of the three) was Lowcountry Frogmore Stew (Georgia shrimp [Georgia shrimp?]

You're kidding, right? Because it sounds like you're surprised that Acheson would be using Georgia shrimp. Georgia's got some of the best shrimp in the world, frankly, and if you can manage to be somewhere where you can actually get fresh Georgia shrimp right off the boat you should do so. Just about anywhere along the long Georgia coast (virtually all of which is protected by barrier islands and Jekyll and Hilton Head and Cumberland) will do.

We skipped desserts: ginger creme brulee, warm chocolate soup, and strawberry baked alaska.

Skipped dessert? Tragic, absolutely tragic.

[Gifted Gourmet]

article on Acheson from Runners World

Acheson, 33, never went to cooking school. He credits chef-mentors in his hometown of Ottawa, Canada, and in San Francisco with teaching him French cooking techniques, such as how to make sausage and confit from scratch. He describes Five & Ten as an intensely personal place, where he does everything from cook to answer the phone. "We offer unpretentious American food--good food, good wine, and that's it," he says. "Nothing fancy." Popular menu items include grilled pork tenderloin with maple-whipped sweet potatoes and a butter lettuce salad with green goddess dressing.

Good article and recipe included ...

[Guest MNewman]

Five & Ten has become a favorite of mine since it opened. I'm a devotee of his Frogmore Stew, the dish he cooked for Woodfire Grill's 3rd anniversary dinner and at his initial Cook's Warehouse cooking class.

Last week, I went for the $20 prie fixe dinner special. He had two options, one Bavarian in style and the other a simple butter lettuce salad with grapefruit and buttermilk dressing, blackened redfish and apple sorbet.

The dinner special at this place is a steal. Hugh recently revamped the menu of an Italian restaurant in Athens and has opened a wine shop.

Edited November 10, 2005 by MNewman (log)