couscous

[chefzadi]

I'm a cooking instructor. (after 16 years of sweating it on the kitchen line). Anyway I also teach recreational cooking classes to home cooks.

In France, North African cuisine is usually equated with Algerian cooking. We are the largest minority group over there. Here in the States North African cuisine is equated with Moroccan cooking. I'll be teaching a few classes on Moroccan tajines (and some classes on French cooking) at Sur La Table. When I submitted my class ideas to the cooking school director I submitted them as "Algerian tajines," she promptly changed the classes titles to "Moroccan tajines."

Just a bit o trivia....

[helenas]

Quite an illuminating thread!

What is a barley couscous? Is it the same as barley grits?

[Wolfert]

ChefZadi: By chance, are you describing the smen laded tlitli? What an unfortunate name ! I, too, had tlitli, but only once. Happily, the cook served a garnish of hard boiled eggs.

In Morocco, the couscous, vegetables, meat or whatever, and sauce are all served on the same plate placed in the center of the table. In restaurants catering to tourists, they serve everything separately.

Helenas: barley couscous is simply couscous made with cracked barley.

The protein in barley is so low it doesn't make sense to turn it into flour, then roll it into a couscous pellet to steam. Instead, cooks crack it, toast it or cook it and then steam it.

.

Edited January 14, 2005 by Wolfert (log)

[hazardnc]

In Anissa Helou's "Mediterranean Street Food" there is a recipe for "Chicken with Moghrabbyeh." Hanou defines moghrabbiyeh as the Lebanese version of couscous with a much bigger grain.

I have a bag of "Israeli" couscous in my pantry. Can this be substituted?

Edited January 14, 2005 by hazardnc (log)

[Wolfert]

In Anissa Helou's "Mediterranean Street Food"  there is a recipe for "Chicken with Moghrabbyeh."    Hanou defines moghrabbiyeh as the Lebanese version of couscous with a much bigger grain.

I have a bag of "Israeli" couscous in my pantry.  Can this be substituted?

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I have been collecting cookbooks devoted to the cuisines of North Africa since 1959, and have more than 100 books. I keep them altogether in my library. Unfortunately, I can't find Anissa's book. I think it is a very fine book but I have misplaced it so I have to 'wing' my answer.

Moghrabbiyeh is the Middle Eastern Arabic word for Israeli couscous. I know it as the Moroccan berkoukech, a hand rolled tiny ball that is dried, rolled in onion juice to help harden it ,and dried again. This makes it strong enough to be simmered in sauce or water or both, but not steamed.

The reason I wanted to check the book is there is also large grain couscous called mhammsa, which is twice the size of the regular packaged grain couscous and is served with chicken, onions, chickpeas and raisins, but it isn't hardened so it has to be steamed. And it is steamed 5 times before it becomes light and tender. If you simmered it you would have only pastywater!

[zeitoun]

Guys, I have to say, this is great reading material. Chefzadi, you rock!!

I don't mean to badger you with questions, but one of your earlier posts brought another question to light. You refer to tajine as a thick stew or soup which is traditionally served as an “accompaniment” to couscous. Is the preparation process of a tajine when it is served individually any different from when it is prepared to be served with a couscous? My Moroccan friends have told me that traditionally, home made tajines (comme au bled ) are brought to hammams where they are very slowly cooked in steam. Were they pulling my leg or is this correct?

In Anissa Helou's "Mediterranean Street Food"  there is a recipe for "Chicken with Moghrabbyeh."    Hanou defines moghrabbiyeh as the Lebanese version of couscous with a much bigger grain.

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Moghrabbiyeh is indeed the Lebanese (or Israeli too? Wolfert?) version of couscous and in addition to the use of a bigger grain, it involves as Wolfert suggested a much different preparation than with North African couscous. Along those lines, I would be curious to know if there is a difference between the Israeli and Lebanese version of it. Foodman might be able to help on this one.

I would note though that ineterstingly the word "moghrabbiyeh" duly attributes the origin of this dish to North Africa, even though the "Lebanized" version of the dish is very different from its North African cousin.

[hazardnc]

The reason I wanted to check the book is there is also large grain couscous called mhammsa, which is twice the size of the regular packaged grain couscous and is served with chicken, onions, chickpeas and raisins, but it isn't hardened so it has to be steamed. And it is steamed 5 times before it becomes light and tender. If you simmered it you would have only pastywater!

Here is what Helou says: "Moghrabbiyah, which means 'North African" in Arabic, is the Lebanese version of couscous, althouh the grain is much bigger, more like m'hamssa, the large grain couscous. You can buy it freshly made, when it is at its best, or dried, in which case you need to soak it before steaming."

The list of ingredients, in addition to the chicken and moghrabbiya, includes baby onions, chickpeas, 7 spice mix, cinnamon - but no raisins.

This recipe sounds similar to a Lebanese dish my husband's cousin makes that we call Mary's Dish because we do not know the proper name. In this dish, rice is mixed with browned ground beef and onions flavored with cinnamon and then this is topped with pieces of chicken, toasted pine nuts and almonds, and more cinnamon.

Edited b/c the "b" key on my laptop keeps sticking!

Edited January 14, 2005 by hazardnc (log)

[Adam Balic]

I would note though that ineterstingly the word "moghrabbiyeh" duly attributes the origin of this dish to North Africa, even though the "Lebanized" version of the dish is very different from its North African cousin.

Clifford Wright has this to say about one of the possible origins of this style of couscous.

"The coriander seed-type appears to be a form of pasta secca, called maccarone in fifteenth century Sicily, that later became known as maghribiyya in Syria, also known as the name of a dish, and the muhammas of Tunisia and the burkukis of Algeria."

An early mention of it is in the 13th century Muslim Andalus recipe collection, which would suggest a Berber origin. However, I have heard of millet 'couscous' style preps from the Sub-Sahara, so maybe there is a non-Berber origin as well.

[Wolfert]

The great Marrakesh dish called tangia is prepared in an amphora shaped earthen ware pot that is placed in the furnace area next to a bath house or hammam.

It is a dish made by men---a dish of soldiers, sheepherders and others separated from women. Hence your friends telling you it is a dish from the bled (countryside).

It isn't a tagine, but it is a stew. A tagine (the pot) has a circular bottom and is set over a brasier for long cooking.

Anissa's use of the word "fresh' makes me think it is the chickpea sized mhammsa and not harder onion juice-rolled-and-dried berkoukech. You didn't tell us what she wants you to do with it in the recipe. I am sure you can use the Israeli couscous as a substitute for mograibyeh.

Edited January 14, 2005 by Wolfert (log)

[FoodMan]

Absolutly awsome thread, I learned so much in the last 30 minutes. I have never steamed couscous, but now I am so psyched to try it. Thanks all.

It is both apporpriate an quite funny that Moughrabiya (translates to "Moroccan" not "North Africa", since in Arabic Morocco is known as "Maghrib" ) is mentioned. I say this because I bought bag of the stuff recently and I am planning on making the dish and post about it as part of the not-very common middle eastern dishes threads. The grains are a bigger than the regular couscous but smaller than chickpeas, more like pearls. I actually have seen it being refered to as pearl couscous in some restaurants.

As to how it relates to Israeli couscous, I am not sure. But I would assume they are more or less interchangable although the Israeli one seems a little samller.

The versions I had were cooked with beef chunks and chicken pieces along with lots of onions and spices. It truly is a wonderful dish.

Elie

[andiesenji]

Ms. Wolfert,

I would like to thank you for posting the information about the earthenware steamer.

My pocketbook is now a little lighter as I ordered one plus a few other "must haves" from Clay Coyote pottery.

Lovely things and very practical - even better they have a glaze that will go so well with the rest of the colors in my kitchen.

I am really looking forward to using it for couscous, in addition to other things. - I always steam dried fruits to plump them, rather than soaking, particularly when used in baking.

Andie

Edited January 14, 2005 by andiesenji (log)

[Wolfert]

I am thrilled that you like the colander. I love mine and store it in the sink and use it all the time for washing fruit, vegetables, whatever.

---

Don't forget to butter the inside of the colander before steaming.'

[zeitoun]

I am planning on making the dish and post about it as part of the not-very common middle eastern dishes threads.

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I can hardly wait..

Now that means someone will have to make the north african version and post it on this thread.

A vos couscoussiers...

[andiesenji]

Sadly, not possible in the long term as I am a sucker for cooking equipment. It was only by an act of great will that I turned down an Alessi couscousier for the bargin price of £120  .

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Sadly, this is a U.S. company, but for those on this side of the pond who want a real couscoussier, this vendor, Fantes, has the best prices I have found for the copper ones. The middle eastern store in my town will special order them but the two quart would be 150.00.

The one I have is similar to the large one shown on this page, however mine is just a bit larger in diameter at the base than their description and may be just a bit squattier.

It also is not as pretty, having been knocked around a bit during my several moves over the years since I received it.

[chefzadi]

Zeitoun-

Badger me with all the questions you want! I've never had or prepared a tajine that was not served with couscous. Also I said that tajines are thin stews or thick soups.

Tajines can be cooked on the bottom section of a couscousier or a cooking vessel that is also called a tajine or in a big pot. There's really no significant difference in the preparation process. If you don't have the time to prepare the semolina couscous you can eat a tajine with bread. It's not traditionally North African. But the Algerians in France will often times serve baguettes AND couscous with tajines, eat a sweet couscous for dessert than serve a second dessert course of French pastries.

I would be more than happy to post some Algerian recipes here, along with pictures when available.

[zeitoun]

I've never had or prepared a tajine that was not served with couscous. Also I said that tajines are thin stews or thick soups.

Tajines can be cooked on the bottom section of a couscousier or a cooking vessel that is also called a tajine or in a big pot. There's really no significant difference in the preparation process. If you don't have the time to prepare the semolina couscous you can eat a tajine with bread. It's not traditionally North African.

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Now, I am a little confused . If I understand you correctly, the tajine dishes you see on menus in the US or even in France are not traditionally served this way in North Africa? Take for instance a dish like a "tajine au poulet et citron confit", you are suggesting that traditionally, this kind of tajine would always be served with couscous and not alone?

[chefzadi]

I would note though that ineterstingly the word "moghrabbiyeh" duly attributes the origin of this dish to North Africa, even though the "Lebanized" version of the dish is very different from its North African cousin.

Clifford Wright has this to say about one of the possible origins of this style of couscous.

"The coriander seed-type appears to be a form of pasta secca, called maccarone in fifteenth century Sicily, that later became known as maghribiyya in Syria, also known as the name of a dish, and the muhammas of Tunisia and the burkukis of Algeria."

An early mention of it is in the 13th century Muslim Andalus recipe collection, which would suggest a Berber origin. However, I have heard of millet 'couscous' style preps from the Sub-Sahara, so maybe there is a non-Berber origin as well.

←

Adam-

Throughout the history of the Mediterranean there has been a tremendous amout of travel back and forth, sometimes for the purposes of war and colonizing, for trade and commerce, political refugees, nomads... Sometimes the Arabs ruled parts of the Euorpean side of the Basin and other times the Europeans ruled parts of the African and Middle Eastern sides.

Near my family farm in Algeria there are Ancient Roman ruins. Makes me dream about the rich history there.

By the way Arabs controlled Sicily for a while. My wife and I went to a bakery run by a Southern Italian family once and when she saw the cookies and pastries she said, "it looks Arab and French." She did some research and sure enough Sicilian pastries were influenced by the Arabs and Normans. I'll look for the article(s) and post the link here.

[chefzadi]

I've never had or prepared a tajine that was not served with couscous. Also I said that tajines are thin stews or thick soups.

Tajines can be cooked on the bottom section of a couscousier or a cooking vessel that is also called a tajine or in a big pot. There's really no significant difference in the preparation process. If you don't have the time to prepare the semolina couscous you can eat a tajine with bread. It's not traditionally North African.

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Now, I am a little confused . If I understand you correctly, the tajine dishes you see on menus in the US or even in France are not traditionally served this way in North Africa? Take for instance a dish like a "tajine au poulet et citron confit", you are suggesting that traditionally, this kind of tajine would always be served with couscous and not alone?

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I'll have to answer this one a little later when I get back on line...

[zeitoun]

Throughout the history of the Mediterranean there has been a tremendous amout of travel back and forth,

.....

By the way Arabs controlled Sicily for a while.

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Incidentally, the people of the island next door (Malta) speak a langague that is very close to Arabic. The similarity in grammar and vocabulary is quite striking.

[andiesenji]

Years ago there was a Moroccan restaurant in what is now West Hollywood (before it became a "city"), that served foods either at small tables individually or if you wished, you could join others, sitting on cushions on the floor, at these huge round brass trays that were on folding supports and eat "family-style" where the food was placed in the center of the tray in a very large earthenware dish or dishes and everyone helped themselves. Small individual dishes and spoons were provided for those people who were uncomfortable eating with their fingers (right hand only) from the communal dish but most people tried the traditional way after instruction from "old hands" and learning a finger bowl was provided for frequent hand-washing.

It was fun and interesting and since you did not order specific dishes, one got to try interesting new foods that you probably would not have ordered off the menu.

The place is no longer there, in fact, a high rise office building is now on the site, but it was a great place, very popular with the college crowd because it was inexpensive and fun. They had musicians and dancers on Friday and Saturday nights and it was very crowded then. I usually went on Wednesdays when they had a lot of specials and extras that I think were being tried out by the chef.

Most of the dishes included couscous in one form or another, often a wide ring of couscous with the meat or vegetable portion in the center.

Edited January 14, 2005 by andiesenji (log)

[Wolfert]

lNow, I am a little confused . If I understand you correctly, the tajine dishes you see on menus in the US or even in France are not traditionally served this way in North Africa? Take for instance a dish like a "tajine au poulet et citron confit", you are suggesting that traditionally, this kind of tajine would always be served with couscous and not alone

I only spent 10 days in Algeria and it was back in 1973, but I can't imagine that much has changed. And I can hardly hold a candle to the chef and his knowledge of his country's food. But in the area around Biskra where I spent most of my time, the word 'tagine' was hardly ever used to describe a meat stew. Instead each dish had its own name, or it was called by its main ingredients. For example, a stew with lamb, potatoes and tomatoes would be simply called 'potatoes and tomatoes;' the word 'lamb'omitted. I had other starchy accompaniments with the various stews including a sensational crepe-like semolina bread.

In Morocco, four major and different traditional recipes called chicken with lemon and olives are popular. In the seven years that I lived in Morocco, I never heard of serving any of these four versions with anything but homemade dense wheat bread scented with anise.

Edited January 15, 2005 by Wolfert (log)

[chefzadi]

This thread is more a richly textured web.

Andie, your personal and poetic stories of first tasting couscous and then enjoying it with friends at an informal restaurant are so vivid I can “taste” similar moments that I’ve had.

Zeitoun, olives, is there a richer symbol of Arab/Mediterranean culture and cuisine? The ancient olive tree that is still standing after hundreds and hundreds of years, the olive branch as a symbol of peace and of course olive oil with all it’s mythical and medicinal properties. Your enthusiasm is infectious.

Ms Wolfert, thank you for embracing North Africa. You documented so much that was not written about before. You will no doubt be remembered in history as an important scholar of North African and Mediterranean culinary traditions.

As I mentioned before, I am neither a historian nor a scholar. My musings on food are more of a “slice of life’.

So here are more of my observations on Algerian Cookery…

In Algeria couscous is also called ta’am, which means “food”. The word tajine is hardly ever used. In some restaurants you won’t find the words couscous or tajine on the menu at all instead you will find dishes that can be translated as “Food with Meat” or “Food with Chicken.” Not very poetic or descriptive. But the word tajine is not very descriptive either. So many dishes can be called a tajine that it’s about as meaningful or meaningless as calling a dish a curry. The term tajine is used liberally in France and America. It’s not one that I personally use much at all, unless I’m teaching. In Los Angeles, Moroccan cuisine has been and is becoming increasingly trendy. Out here the types of tajines that are in demand are the ones served with couscous. As for Poulet aux Citron, Algerian versions tend to have quite bit of sauce and they are served with couscous. So in answer to Zeitoun’s questions regarding tajines being served with couscous, I jumped the gun with my answer. It’s confusing for me too, because tajine (as is the case with words in general) has denotative and connotative meanings. Because I’m now in Los Angeles I just got into the habit of thinking of it the way it’s commonly used out here. Actually all the questions regarding different types of tajines makes me think that I should do a bit more editing in my cookbook.

More from me later…

[andiesenji]

I finally found where my housekeeper had put the canisters of couscous I buy at the local middle eastern store. I buy in bulk as they sell it loose, by the pound.

One type is the regular, pinhead size, golden in color. Another is one that they have labeled as "maftoul" (at least that is what I wrote down on the receipt so I would remember it".

It is like little beads, ranging in size from pinhead size to the size of a BB. It is a tan color and actually looks slightly toasted. It is much smaller than the "Israeli" couscous or the Moughrabiah which is the size of a pea or larger.

I like the flavor, it has a deeper flavor than regular couscous, almost like a brown rice and seems to have some flavoring in it, when I taste it plain.

The ingredients or grain source is not listed in the store and we have a bit of a language problem when I try to ask what things are made from.

[chefzadi]

I finally found where my housekeeper had put the canisters of couscous I buy at the local middle eastern store.  I buy in bulk as they sell it loose, by the pound. 

One type is the regular, pinhead size, golden in color.  Another is one that they have labeled as "maftoul" (at least that is what I wrote down on the receipt so I would remember it". 

It is like little beads, ranging in size from pinhead size to the size of a BB.  It is a tan color and actually looks slightly toasted.  It is much smaller than the "Israeli" couscous or the Moughrabiah which is the size of a pea or larger. 

I like the flavor, it has a deeper flavor than regular couscous, almost like a brown rice and seems to have some flavoring in it, when I taste it plain. 

The ingredients or grain source is not listed in the store and we have a bit of a language problem when I try to ask what things are made from.

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Where do you get Middle Eastern groceries in LA? I usually go to the Pakistani store on Vermont Blvd for spices and couscous. I finally found a really good kefir at an Iranian market. They sell bulk couscous at Whole Foods. My favorite packaged brand so far is Rivoire & Carret.

[Wolfert]

I might be wrong but I think maftoul is the Jordanian word for moghrabiya.