couscous

[zeitoun]

Could someone tell me what the differences are between the couscous(es) prepared in Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia? Also, as i understand it, within those countries, couscous might be prepared differently also. I once had a tunisian couscous prepared by a jewish tunisian family that was completely different from the couscous i had at an arabic tunisian owned restaurant in Paris.

[chefzadi]

Could someone tell me what the differences are between the couscous(es) prepared in Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia? Also, as i understand it, within those countries, couscous might be prepared differently also.  I once had a tunisian couscous prepared by a jewish tunisian family that was completely different from the couscous i had at an arabic tunisian owned restaurant in Paris.

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Couscous, you say? I can and have written a dissertation this. But I'll provide just the basics here. Couscous is made from semolina flour, water and salt. It comes in various sizes from tiny granules to buck shot sized ones (at which point they are calle berkoukes and no longer couscous). The most common type of couscous in the Maghreb (Algeria, Morroco and Tunisia) are the fine to medium sized ones. In all the countries the traditional preparation involves 2-3 steamings. W

The variations occur with how the tajines are spiced. Tajines are thin stews or thick soups. Lamb is the most authentic protein, but nowadays chicken and beef are pretty common. In the coastal cities seafood tajines are obviously common. Broadly speaking the Tunisians like their red hot peppers, Caraway and Tumeric, the Morroccans use a wider array of spices (lots of cinnamon and nutmeg) and more of it (they also emphasize sweet and sour combinations more) and the Algerians are more simple (we prefer cumin the most and compared to the Morrocans we tend to use a fewer range of spices in our dishes. We also don't use as much red pepper as the Tunisians do). But the differences in the Magrheb countries is not that important. We are more or less one people. We speak the same Arabic dialect. You can talk about differences from country to country, but you are more likely to find greater variations from region to region or neighbor to neighbor.

If you want to get into semantics/linguistics we can do that later. Basically couscous is the staff of life to us North Africans. The word means so many things to us.

[chefzadi]

Could someone tell me what the differences are between the couscous(es) prepared in Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia? Also, as i understand it, within those countries, couscous might be prepared differently also.  I once had a tunisian couscous prepared by a jewish tunisian family that was completely different from the couscous i had at an arabic tunisian owned restaurant in Paris.

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Arabs come in all religious guises. I was born into a Muslim family. But there have been Arab jews as long as there has been Judaism and Arab Christians as long as there has been Christianity. The Jews have a long history in North Africa, if not longer than the Muslims. So the only difference I can think of in the recipes are related to religious requirements.

[Wolfert]

I love what you have to say, but what about barley, acorns, corn, millet and even, dried breadcrumbs?

And all those half semolina-half barley mixes that they make in Tunisia?

[chefzadi]

I love what you have to say, but what about barley, acorns, corn, millet and even, dried breadcrumbs?

And all those half semolina-half barley mixes that they make in Tunisia?

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Yes, Ms Wolfert.

I wanted to keep it concise. I am very open to a discussion about all the different types of grains or processed grains are steamed in a couscousier. And of course the origins of the couscousier itself.

Let's keep the dialogue open! We can go allover Africa and then some!

[Wolfert]

You are absolutely right!

I hesitated to answer zeitoun's query because I thought I would never have the time or the energy.

On the other hand, barley is said to be the 'first' couscous of north africa

That should be mentioned. Also, because it is so delicious.

[zeitoun]

Couscous, you say? I can and have written a dissertation this.

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Man, I knew you would fire back with a great answer!! I know the basics, it is that dissertation of yours that intrigues me!! Please share more with us!

How about the use of meats (merguez, chicken, lamb), chickpeas or not, dried raisins?

[chefzadi]

You are absolutely right!

I hesitated to answer zeitoun's query because I thought I would never have the time or the energy.

On the other hand, barley is said to be the 'first' couscous of north africa

That should be mentioned. Also, because it is so delicious.

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Ms Wolfert,

I really do want to discuss the ancient (Berbers and beyond) and more modern Jewish (Pied Noir) versions of couscous. We're getting into Culinary evolution now, which is always a fun discussion. I will post more on this tomorrow and I look forward to having a stimulating dialogue with you.

[chefzadi]

Couscous, you say? I can and have written a dissertation this.

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Man, I knew you would fire back with a great answer!! I know the basics, it is that dissertation of yours that intrigues me!! Please share more with us!

How about the use of meats (merguez, chicken, lamb), chickpeas or not, dried raisins?

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The dissertation is part of the cookbook I wrote, But I believe in the free sharing of information and knowledge. So I will more than gladly post everything I know (which doesn't amount to much) here! Give me some time and it will come to you.

[zeitoun]

The dissertation is part of the cookbook I wrote, But I believe in the free sharing of information and knowledge. So I will more than gladly post everything I know (which doesn't amount to much) here! Give me some time and it will come to you.

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Thanks. Free is good, but once it is published, please let us know. You have a buyer here. I have not come across any decent north african cookbook even in France...

[Adam Balic]

Very interesting stuff. Having made couscous (following Paula's methods) I was surprised by how easy it is to make (and would be easier if I had the correct sieves!), but one think that I am interested in is why couscous at all? Why is couscous so prevalent in the North Africa, rather then other durum wheat/semolina products like dried pasta?

The 13th C, muslim cookbook "Kitab al-tabikh fi al- Maghrib wa’l-Andalus" (Charles Perry translation) mentions three "pasta"* type products, one sounds very much like berkoukes/muhammas etc, the others more 'conventional' pasta types. I have seen recipes for pasta steamed in a kiskis like couscous from North Africa, so pasta is used in some cases, but while is couscous more widely seen?

May be there is a historical or religious reason for this, but could it be that not wheat (millet/barley) couscous where more common wheat couscous historically and these are not very good for making pasta?

* I guess that couscous is technically not a pasta, but I hope that you know what I mean.

[Wolfert]

Very interesting stuff. Having made couscous (following Paula's methods) I was surprised by how easy it is to make (and would be easier if I had the correct sieves!),

So pleased you saw the beauty in hand rolling couscous. To get the right sieves, check out an Indian grocer. They sell sets of 4 sieves for very little money.

but one think that I am interested in is why couscous at all?

I think there are a number of reasons, but the major one is saving on fuel by the stacking of pots on top of each other when cooking --i.e. the couscous rack over the steaming soup.

Why is couscous so prevalent in the North Africa, rather then other durum wheat/semolina products like dried pasta?

Clifford Wright has done research on the introduction of hard wheat (durum-semolina) in the 12 th century. It quickly became the flour of choice in pasta and couscous .

In Tunisia there are mosaics from Roman times showing the making of couscous. No doubt with barley or millet. By the way, there are Berbers in North Africa who still use barley rather than durum wheat for couscous, bread, etc.

The 13th C, muslim cookbook "Kitab al-tabikh fi al- Maghrib wa’l-Andalus" (Charles Perry translation) mentions three "pasta"* type products, one sounds very much like berkoukes/muhammas etc, the others more 'conventional' pasta types. I have seen recipes for pasta steamed in a kiskis like couscous from North Africa, so pasta is used in some cases, but while is couscous more widely seen?

Berbers in North Africa claim they developed the art of culinary steaming in the Mediterranean. And they do steam a lot of different foods including rice, itriya (hand rolled noodles), fresh favas, whole chickens, chunks of lamb, fish, and chick peas.

[chefzadi]

Very interesting stuff. Having made couscous (following Paula's methods) I was surprised by how easy it is to make (and would be easier if I had the correct sieves!), but one think that I am interested in is why couscous at all? Why is couscous so prevalent in the North Africa, rather then other durum wheat/semolina products like dried pasta?

The 13th C, muslim cookbook "Kitab al-tabikh fi al- Maghrib wa’l-Andalus" (Charles Perry translation) mentions three "pasta"* type products, one sounds very much like berkoukes/muhammas etc, the others more 'conventional' pasta types. I have seen recipes for pasta steamed in a kiskis like couscous from North Africa, so pasta is used in some cases, but while is couscous more widely seen?

May be there is a historical or religious reason for this, but could it be that not wheat (millet/barley) couscous where more common wheat couscous historically and these are not very good for making pasta?

* I guess that couscous is technically not a pasta, but I hope that you know what I mean.

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I will answer parts of your question for now and the rest later when I have more time.

It's thought that the Berber's invented the couscousier, the double tiered cooking vessel. You are correct historically non-wheat couscous was more common. As Ms Wolfert mentioned it was Barley. Wheat was introduced later, some say by Arabs others say by the Romans. It was certainly the Romans who turned Tunisia into the breadbasket for Europe. So why this shape of "pasta"? I'm not a food historian or a scholar. But I will share some observations. The shape of semolina couscous bears resemblance to grains (millet for instance) that were originally cooked in a couscousier. Semolina couscous is pretty much indestructable so it's easier to store and travel with than most other shapes of "pasta". Traditionally couscous is eaten with one's fingers, it's hard to eat Angel hair pasta with one's fingers (I know I've seen my 20 month son try this). Semolina couscous is more versatile than other types of "pasta". It can be eaten plain, with fermented yoghurt, sweetened with sugar and raisins, paired with savory tajines. Semolina couscous is probably so prevalent because it deliciously addresses the diverse needs of the Magrheb ....

More from me later.....

[therese]

...more modern Jewish (Pied Noir) versions of couscous...

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A bit beside the point, but I'm used to the term pied noir referring to French whose families had previously lived in North Africa and now live in France. I once lived with a pied noir family from Algeria who'd ended up in Normandy---great couscous and merguez.

Is the term used for both?

[chefzadi]

...more modern Jewish (Pied Noir) versions of couscous...

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A bit beside the point, but I'm used to the term pied noir referring to French whose families had previously lived in North Africa and now live in France. I once lived with a pied noir family from Algeria who'd ended up in Normandy---great couscous and merguez.

Is the term used for both?

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It's used for both and more. Pied Noir also refers to other European settlers.

[Adam Balic]

So pleased  you saw the beauty in hand rolling couscous.  To get the right sieves, check out an Indian grocer. They sell sets of 4 sieves for very little money.

Ah, thanks for that suggestion. All I need now is to find a couscousiere in the UK. I use my french friends one at the moment. Infact, I used her couscousiere on monday, along with the tagine I got in Meknes. I have also been using barley couscous recently, tastes good and looks good as well.

Berbers in North Africa claim they developed the art of culinary steaming in the Mediterranean. And they do steam a lot of different foods including rice, itriya (hand rolled noodles), fresh favas, whole chickens, chunks of lamb, fish, and chick peas.

Well I gues the Almoravids and the Almohads were Berbers, so no wonder it turns up in Andalus. I wonder if it comes down to a preference for steaming verses boiling. Would be interesting to know what influenced this preference (if there was one), kitchen layout maybe.

[Wolfert]

Forget buying a co uscous cooker. A steamer over a pasta pot works very well. Actually, my new favorite way to steam couscous is to use an earthenware colander set tightly over a pot of boiling water.

[Adam Balic]

Sadly, not possible in the long term as I am a sucker for cooking equipment. It was only by an act of great will that I turned down an Alessi couscousier for the bargin price of £120 .

[helenas]

Forget buying a co uscous cooker. A steamer over a pasta pot works very well. Actually, my new favorite way to steam couscous is to use an earthenware colander set tightly over a pot of boiling water.

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will it work with Kalustyans couscous? If yes, do i need to moist it before?

EDIT: Found this thing by Alton Brown - he basically has answers to my questions:

Steamed Couscous

Edited January 13, 2005 by helenas (log)

[andiesenji]

This is a terrific thread. Thanks for introducing it, zeitoun. Couscous in one of my favorite starches and I have been preparing it, in what I believe is the Moroccan way, since the late 1970s. I hosted a young woman from Morocco who was in So.Calif. attending an artist's workshop for a few weeks. There were not as many "ethnic" markets where such things were available and it was quite an adventure just finding "real" couscous in bulk.

There was boxed version but it was deemed not authentic.

I liked it from my very first taste and found it went well with many different foods, not just the foods of North Africa.

Mira sent me a rather large copper couscousier after she returned home and I still use it, so much so that it has been re-tinned at least 3 times in the last 25 years.

Harissa was another thing to which she introduced me and it has been a staple in my spice drawer ever since, along with combining sweet dried fruits with savory meats and vegetables.

It is true that couscous can be prepared in just about any type of steamer, however if you want to find an inexpensive stainless steel couscousier, you should be able to find one at any middle eastern market. The one in the town where I live has one for $29.95. and a larger one for $49.95 and they are the traditional shape.

Finding an authentic tagine has not been as easy in the past. Now they are available online and at many cookware speciatly stores, even one with a cast-iron base is available now from Le Cruset (Sur La Table). I have several of the traditional terracotta type, both glazed and unglazed from small to large. I have never had a problem with cooking on top of the stove, using a diffuser, so have not considered the cast iron version.

[chefzadi]

So pleased  you saw the beauty in hand rolling couscous.  To get the right sieves, check out an Indian grocer. They sell sets of 4 sieves for very little money.

Ah, thanks for that suggestion. All I need now is to find a couscousiere in the UK. I use my french friends one at the moment. Infact, I used her couscousiere on monday, along with the tagine I got in Meknes. I have also been using barley couscous recently, tastes good and looks good as well.

Berbers in North Africa claim they developed the art of culinary steaming in the Mediterranean. And they do steam a lot of different foods including rice, itriya (hand rolled noodles), fresh favas, whole chickens, chunks of lamb, fish, and chick peas.

Well I gues the Almoravids and the Almohads were Berbers, so no wonder it turns up in Andalus. I wonder if it comes down to a preference for steaming verses boiling. Would be interesting to know what influenced this preference (if there was one), kitchen layout maybe.

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My relatives in Algeria still make handmade semolina cousous. As for kitchen layout, the old Berbers were nomads. So one heat source cooking was ideal. As for "contemporary" Algerian kitchens, my relatives have one heat source in their kitchen.

My family is from an area that neighbors the Kabyle, we are actually a mix of Arab and Beber.

[chefzadi]

Forget buying a co uscous cooker. A steamer over a pasta pot works very well. Actually, my new favorite way to steam couscous is to use an earthenware colander set tightly over a pot of boiling water.

←

will it work with Kalustyans couscous? If yes, do i need to moist it before?

EDIT: Found this thing by Alton Brown - he basically has answers to my questions:

Steamed Couscous

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I read Alton Brown's directions for preparing couscous. I don't think 25 minutes total steam is anywhere near adequate for dried, packaged couscous. More like at least twice that amount of time. And it should cool for more than 5 minutes in between steamings.

[chefzadi]

Couscous, you say? I can and have written a dissertation this.

←

Man, I knew you would fire back with a great answer!! I know the basics, it is that dissertation of yours that intrigues me!! Please share more with us!

How about the use of meats (merguez, chicken, lamb), chickpeas or not, dried raisins?

←

The beauty of Tajines is that they are so flexible, there are "no rules" to what can be added to them. Some are extremely simple with just a few ingredients and spices. Others seem to have every thing but the kitchen sink in them. Old Arab recipes simply call for "meat" and "meat" meant lamb. But when chicken and beef became more widely available throughout North Africa, they were quickly incorporated into Tajines and other dishes. As for Merguez it's grilled and served seperatley with the other meats from the tajine. Merguez isn't directly added to a tajine, at least not in Algeria. Some tajines even combine beef, lamb and chicken. Others use fish. Some versions have chick peas other don't. Dried fruits such as apricots, prunes and raisins can be added. There are tajines made from game birds as well.

When I have more time I will begin posting recipes that illustrate different techniques and flavor combinations.

[Wolfert]

Helena:

Yes, store-bought couscous is fine but you need to dampen it down and break it up in a bowl before steaming..

The only time you steam semolina couscous without previous dampening is when you make your own hand rolled cosucous and it goes straight from the bowl into the steamer. If you dry the couscous ---in the sun---then you need to dampen it as well.

Brown suggests one inch of water. This must be a mistake. I can't imagine steaming with so little water . I use 6 or 7 inches of water.

You don't need a tea towel or anything to shield the holes in the steamer. When steam is going up through the holes, the couscous sticks together and it won't fall through.

You can steam covered or uncovered. Moroccans rarely cover, TUnisians always cover their couscous. The Moroccan couscous comes out lighter and needs longer cooking.

I steam 15 minutes each time with 5 minutes out on a try. After the first steaming I add salt, a drop of oil and enough cold water in small amounts to dampen it. THen I take a long wide whisk and break up the lumps. Oddly to break up small gooey lumps you should wet your fingers and roll them out to break them up.

I always repeat this p rocess a third time but without adding oil or salt. The water needs to be added very gradually. The secret of couscous expanding is...it doesn't do it in the steamer it does it in the wide open pan as you break up lumps. and wet it down.

On the other hand, with homemade rolled couscous ,you need to steam it at least 3 times to fully cook it

The reason I switched to an earthen steamer is it produces a lighter and fluffier couscous. The old couscous steamers in Morocco and Tunisia were made with clay.

CHeck out theClay Coyote Pottery at www.claycoyote.com

They sell beautiful ceramic colanders that work perfectly and cost about 32 dollars.

.

Edited January 14, 2005 by Wolfert (log)

[chefzadi]

Zeitoun-

I keep thinking about your questions regarding the different types of couscous dishes in the various Maghreb countries. You see Algeria borders both Tunisia and Morocco, so depending on the region of Algeria you are in there is culinary overlap with the two other countries. Ms Wolfert mentioned that the Moroccans cook their semolina couscous uncovered and the Tunisians cover the pot. In Algeria both techniques are used, again depending on the region. The Tunisians also serve their couscous more like a pilaf, they lay the meat and vegetables from a tajine on top of the semolina couscous and pour some of the cooking broth on top. In Algeria the presentation is different. The Semolina couscous is served seperately, the meat and vegetables are served on a platter and the broth is served in a tureen. I understand the Moroccans serve it the same way.

I also add butter and olive oil to my semolina couscous. My mother in France has always done so and so do my relatives in Algeria. They churn fresh butter almost daily on their farm. They preserve the leftovers for Smen. (btw, I hate Smen. My mother used to add it to my least favorite dish. Chicken with these torn pancakes. I couldn't stand the mushy broth soaked pancakes and the smen made it even worse. I would wonder, "why, why, why do I have to eat this?).