TN: Christmas Dinner

[jrufusj]

At a gathering at my house of my wife and kids, with my parents (visiting from the US), my cousin's family who also live here in Tokyo, and his parents and sister (also visiting from the US).

1989 Philipponnat Champagne Grand Blanc - France, Champagne, Mereuil Sur Ay, Champagne

As an aperitif, with asian-seasoned avacado mash in endive leaves and ikura on toasts as finger food.

Deep golden color. Slight mousse suggesting a champagne with more age. Initial impression created by visual of mousse was carried through on nose and palate. Maderized mature champagne aromas and flavors that would have led me to think this was significantly older if tasted blind. Nose showed little to no fruit. Had a honeyed character, slight yeastiness, but a more primary yeastiness than a bread yeastiness. Palate was more interesting, but suffered from a lack of acid. Fruit was primarily quince and fig, with subtle bits of apple and lime. Enjoyable and, above all, interesting, but not very exciting or lively. Quality of storage not in question. And I do generally like mature champagnes.

2002 Huët Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

With a soup of pureed Japanese winter squash (kabocha) and pureed assorted Japanese mushrooms, moistened enough to allow the pureeing with a roasted onion stock. Enriched with a little cream and a little walnut oil smuggled in from France as a Christmas gift by a friend. Finished with crisp fried onion and garlic crumbs. More like a veg puree than a soup.

Very, very light straw yellow..crystal clear. Expressive nose of tart apple, stone fruits, mineral, and nutmeg. Great acidity on palate. I wanted to give this one time to develop, but it was hard to stay away from...one of those wines that makes you want to drink it right up. Called to mind Hugh Johnson's quote on claret -- "goes down like water". Light body and mouthfeel containing explosion of tart fruit, pebbly stones, honey without sweetness. Elegant like liquid velvet. Can you tell I like it?

1989 Domaine Rabasse-Charavin Côtes du Rhône Cuvee Syrah - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

From magnum.

With simple roast duck (cassis mustard and honey glaze), parsley crusted lamb rack, and various typical Christmas sides.

Mature (though not heavily faded) lighter red color. Not tending to orange, but all of the ink is definitely gone. Nose with the slightest bit of dust and leather and stable, but still clean. A little allspice and just a hint of pepper, but mostly subdued raspberry and dark cherry fruit. Other than fruit opening up a tad, very little evolution over the course of an hour. Palate shows barely noticeable fully resolved tannins, raspberry fruit, and just enough acid to hold it all together. A pleasure to drink with the duck and lamb. a good demonstration of the aging potential of a simpler wine with good balanced structure to start.

2001 Mas de Boislauzon Côtes du Rhône Villages - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages

Follow on bottle with the duck and lamb.

Young, deep dark red. Rich nose of sweet berry fruit, spice, anise, and herb. Round and smooth with mild tannins, little to no noticeable acid, and strong deep raspberry fruit with a light pepper spice and a tad of chocolate. Pleasantly full body and good finish in which the fruit lingers. One of the better CdR I've had recently. Makes me glad I bought a case for current drinking, though I wouldn't wait on this one.

1988 Andre Beaufort Champagne Rose Grand Cru Doux - France, Champagne, Ambonnay, Champagne

Degorge -- May 2004

With a charlotte russe.

Light, clear strawberry color with lively mousse. Strawberry color notes carried through to strawberry fruit on the nose, accompanied by candied citrus and marinated cherry, with just a touch of cinnamon and even a little floral hint. Rich sweet mouthfeel that stood up well to charlotte russe. Surprisingly good acid balanced the sweetness. This wine just screams strawberries and sweet cream from front to back of mouth, though a little lemony touch keeps the finish from cloying. Generally not my style of wine, though it is the best match for the charlotte I've ever had.

1989 Huët Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Haut Lieu - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

With an array of cheeses.

Deep yellow-gold, crystal clear, solid to rim. Except for depth of gold, could have been a baby. Nose showed immediate honey richness, peach and apple fruit, ground stone. Developed apple pie type spice and fleeting citrus notes as it sat, as well as a yeasty sweet cheese character similar to brie baked in pastry. Mouthfeel that would have suggested TBA sweetness, but less sweet than that and balanced by an acidity that kept it as fresh as bubbling streamwater. Complete from front to back of palate, with still primary fruit and flavor like waxy honeycomb. Long, long finish with that pleasurable slight stinging in the back of the nose that comes from good lavendar honey. Great bottle of wine!

Jim