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Low priced stuff


Florida Jim
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Aperitif:

2002 Brocard, Bourgogne Kimmeridgien:

Viscous but fresh, ripe yet with cut, tart, balanced and persistent; not bad . . .

Reminds me of village Chablis. Thanks Bill.

With assorted cheeses:

2002 A. et P. De Villaine, Bourgogne Les Clos Blanc:

Lighter, cleaner and more focused than the preceding wine but with better balance and precision. My preference of the two and, I suspect, more versatile with lighter fare. Charming wine.

With roasted salmon and side dishes:

2000 David Bruce, Pinor Noir Sonoma County:

Oaked to the point that the wood obscures the smell and taste of the fruit. A waste of grapes and money.

and,

2002 A. et P. De Villaine, Bourgogne La Digoine Rouge:

Translucent; clean on the nose and palate with brisk red cherry scents; crisp cherry and stone flavors, delineated (nearly strained) and a bit tight; clean after-taste. Not a complexity champion but much more enjoyable than the David Bruce.

With vegetarian pizza:

2003 Foillard, Morgon Cote du Py:

Red fruit, face powder and spice nose with hints of wax; completely ripe and rich (but not jammy) red fruit, good concentration and structure, no lack of acid but it doesn’t stick out either, very fine tannins, intense, no overt alcohol and a nicely balanced showing for such a youngster. Although Morgon is not my favorite appellation in Beaujolais, if this is representative of the vintage there, I will be trying others soon.

and,

2003 Duboeuf, Moulin-a-Vent Dom. des Rosiers:

Restrained on the nose and structured on the palate, this wine has less fruit and character than the foregoing, is more black fruit driven and less complex. There’s no banana scents or flavors, overt alcohol nor evident wood; it has enough acid and gives the impression that cellar time would be helpful. A well-made, tasty, hearty Beaujolais just below the level of the Foillard.

With grilled chicken and sides:

2002 R. Chevillon, Passetoutgrains:

The motor-sailer of wines, that is, a fusion that is, IMO, less than the sum of its original parts (in this case, pinot noir and gamay). Lightweight and a bit too tart in the fruit elements, moderately intense, little finish. I’m glad I tried it but this is not for me. Thanks Bill.

With turkey sandwiches:

2002 A. et P. De Villaine, Bouzeron:

My first aligote wine and nothing to get excited about. Clean and fresh but sort of diffuse and vinous on the palate with little complexity or finish. Okay, but little more.

With grilled N.Y. strip and Caesar salad:

2000 Dom. de l’Olivette, Bandol:

75% mourvedre, 14% alcohol; a nose of olive, flowers, chocolate, red fruit and baby powder; big and dense on the palate with extraction, concentration and intensity, mouth-puckering tannins and an astringency that seems unrelated to the tannins; drying finish. This wine is obviously Bandol, clearly mouvedre based, definitely well-made but I will never buy it again; it does not go with the food I eat. Even with this dish it was over-powering. We had to go get cheese to be able to finish a glass. Perhaps, with ten years in the cellar . . .

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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