2002 Montreal High Lights Festival

[Lesley C]

Any e-gulleters visiting Montreal between Feb. 14th to March 3rd might be interested in the “Arts de la Table” events of the Montreal Highlights Festival, where visiting chefs from around the world are paired with local restaurants. This year’s lineup includes

Laurent Tourondel (Cello), Kerri Simon (Prime), Jean-Michel Lorain (La Cote Saint-Jacques), Eric Fréchon (Le Bristol), David Van Lear (Le Maxence), Jean-Paul Thibert (Thibert), Rocco DiSpirito (Union Pacific), Tetsuya Wakuda (Tetsuya), and more.  

These diners are, for the most part, reasonably priced (lowly Canadian $$) and when the chef takes the time to get to know our ingredients, impressive. There are all kinds of other events as well: a massive choucroute feast by Antoine Westermann, pastry seminars by Gabriel Paillasson, wine tastings, cooking demonstrations. If anyone is interested, a complete list of guest chefs and events is available at the festival website http://www.montrealhighlights.com/english/...uests-list.html.

Beware: the English translation is horrible.    

[Andy Lynes]

Lesley

welcome on behalf of the UK board and users in your new role as community co-ord. Hope you have as much fun as I have (actually, considering recent events over on the UK board, I hope you have a lot more  ;) ).

[Lesley C]

Thank you Andy!

One can only hope this board will some day match the eccentric vernacular of the UK board.

Come on Canadians, let loose!  

[Steve Klc]

Be careful what you wish for Lesley.

[Andy Lynes]

Steve - I can't help but second that emotion.

[Dan Smith]

Thanks for the great info Lesley.  I live close to Montreal and I'm always looking for new things to experience.  I'll probably go at least once, if I do, I'll let you guys know what I thought of the event.  BTW, your provided link does not work

[Lesley C]

Sorry about the link. Try www.montrealhighlights.com and click on what you are interested in from there.

I'll be going to about five guest chef dinners (Laurent Tourondel of Cello tonight, and Jean-Michel Lorain of the Cote St-Jacques tomorrow) and will try to post a few impressions ASAP. If you're interested book soon. I hear many of the chef dinners are already sold out.

[Patrice]

Last night, I hand dinner at Chez L'Épicier where chef Laurent Tourondel of Cello, in NY, was cooking.  Even if I cannot compare this meal to the one I had previously this year in NY at his restaurant, yesterday dinner was indeed a very good.  The desserts, prepared by his pastry chef Jean-François Bonnet were my personnals highlights. I really enjoyed his pre-dessert: a grapefruit sorbet with fromage blanc foam served in an eggshell.

[Steve Klc]

Patrice--did you chat with Laurent and Jean-Francois?  did he do the foam in an iSi whipper or with an immersion blender? was the egg top cut cleanly/precisely--or rather roughly cut?  also, did Laurent introduce his sous-chef and pastry chef to the crowd?  Lesley C--did you enjoy the dinner, too?

[Patrice]

For the grapefruit sorbet,  the egg was cleanly cut and was set over some sugar, inside it was half grapefruit sorbet and half a fromage blanc foam done with an iSi whipper. The foam was very tasty and the texture was light and smooth.  Laurent also used an imersion blender in another service: a lobter risotto with foie gras an a Sauterne emulsion.  

I had the chance to chat only with Mr Tourondel.  But everybody in the kitchen told me that they were very nice and professionnal.

My next meal: Rocco DiSpirito of Union Pacific at Toqué,  Eric Fréchon of the Bristol at The Ritz, Tetsuya also at the Toqué and a nine service chocolate menu at La Chronique

[Lesley C]

Both dinners were amazing, AMAZING! It’s hard to pick one over the other, but I think I’d give the edge to Lorain who has less of a flair for plate presentations but is more playful and creative with his ingredients (more on that dinner later).

Tourondel drove to Montreal and brought his sous-chef, pastry chef and many ingredients – and all his sauces -- with him. The menu included:

White mushroom velouté with a black truffle sabayon

Diver sea scallops with a cauliflower mousseline and citrus caper beurre noisette

Risotto of pan-seared lobster and foie gras with parmesan, sauternes emulsion

Pistachio-crusted venison, porcini, caramelized chestnuts and cranberries

Grapefruit sorbet with fromage blanc foam

Lavender honey chocolate crumble with milk crème glacée

The mushroom soup was heaven: rich and creamy soup, airy full-flavoured truffle foam topped with a large slice of black truffle. It was served with a wonderful little pain brioche laced with truffle butter and Fleur de Sel. The scallops had a crisp topping of brunoise-sized brioche cubes and the caper butter had an intense vinegar/butter flavour that contrasted so well with the earthy cauliflower. The risotto was probably my favourite dish: the lobster was tender, the rice was al-dente and creamy, and the emulsion (he’s big on emulsions) was strong enough to complement the foie gras (delicious) and lobster without overwhelming. The only small disappointment for me was the venison. The filet was a bit tough (should have brought my Laguiole), did not have a pistachio crust but a sprinkling of pistachios, and the chestnuts were floury —as chestnuts tend to be. A side dish of cranberry/ pear/ peppercorn chutney added a welcome sweet element (I only wish there had been more).  

The grapefruit sorbet was nice, if a bit underwhelming. The egg shell had a straight clean edge and I believe the fromage blanc was made with an iSi whipper (it was thicker than the other foamy emulsions). The dessert was very good, the mousse base had an almost ganache-like texture (thanks to the honey) that was offset so smartly with the chocolate crumble topping (somebody please give me this recipe). I found the ice cream (more of a sorbet au lait really) a bit dull next to the chocolate. The mignardises included rose water madeleines and a selection of chocolates from Cello, which were OK, but didn’t rock my world.

This six-course menu cost $80 (about $50 US?) or $140 (about $85 US) with 5 glasses of excellent wine – a steal considering the number of courses and quality of ingredients (truffles, foie gras, lobster, venison, scallops).

At the end of the service Tourondel came out to speak with us. He must be one of the nicest chefs I’ve ever met, and I’ve met my share of nice chefs. Not only is he enthusiastic about cooking and discovering new ingredients, but he only had kind words for his fellow New York chefs – especially the Americans. He also likes Montreal, which makes him a great guy in my books! Of the three nights he was in town, the first night (Sunday) was sold out and the third night (Tuesday) was overbooked, but the night I was there (Monday) I was sorry to see no more than ten people in the dining room.  

What impressed me about Tourondel’s dishes were the tasteful plate presentations, the perfectly balanced flavours (especially the sauces) and spot-on seasoning (Lorain’s food was much saltier). He told me he started as a pastry chef and it shows. Details like the brioche, quality of desserts, and mignardises made all the difference. But unlike Patrice, I was won over by his savoury dishes, especially the seafood.

I was sorry we weren’t in a luxurious setting (Chez L’Epicier is cute, not grand) but in such humble surroundings, the food was the star of the show – as it should be. Tourondel tells me he’ll be writing a book this year on fish cookery for the home chef -- no stocks, no complicated chef recipes. I can hardly wait.

[Patrice]

Last night I went to the Toqué where Rocco DiSpirito of Union Pacific, in NY, was cooking.

The meal was VERY good:

-Taylor Bay Scallops with uni and mustard oil  (Der Grüne Veltliner 1999, Veltlinsky)

-Seafood fiesta platter  (Franciacorta, Cuvéé Brut,Bellavista)

-Bouillon of forest mushrooms with Olorosso Shery

-Roasted foie gras with glazed pear and lovage purée  (Coteaux-du-Layon 1985, Moulin Touchais)

-Chiliean Sea Bass with squash pudding au safran  (Fleurie 2000,Domaine du Vissoux)

-Osso Bucco in San Marzano Tomatoes and fresh black truffles  (Rasteau 1998,Domaine de la Soumande)

-Gougères

-Gianduja parfait with milk chocolate cream  (Vidal icewine 1999, Konzelmann Estate Winery)

The combination of scallops with uni and mustard oil is really fantastic. The punch of the oil succed to balance the sweeteness of the scallops.

The seafood platter was a big surprise: in the mibble of the bolw there was a cube of wine gelly, trapped inside the gelly was pieces of lobter. On top of this cube was sitting a flouder ceviche. on the plate was sevruga caviar... A beautiful and very tastefull dish.

The lovage purée with the foie gras was a very clever accompaniment.

The sea bass was perfectly cooked and the squash pudding ( more like a purée) was perfect.

The Osso Bucco plate was covered with slices of fresh Truffles but, the real highlight of this plate was the small spoon in the bone that made possible  eating the incredible bone marrow...

The dessert was perfectly executed but lacked the originaly of the other services.

Mr DiSpirito was really nice, chatting with each guests during all the evening. Another very good meal !!!

[Steve Klc]

Patrice--would you elaborate on the construction and service of the dessert--and whether you thought the icewine pairing was appropriate?  I have had that particular wine and am curious how well it worked, on your palate, with gianduja and milk chocolate.

[Patrice]

The parfait was rectangular: about half an inch tall, half an inch wide and four inches long. The top had a velvet texture ( a mixture of chocolate and cocoa butter shooted with a paint gun)  on the side there was a quenelle of milk chocolate cream ( a type of ganache done with crème anglaise ). There was also some caramelized rice crispies around the plate.

I was really surprised by the choice of the wine, after tasting, I can say that I was even more surprised...for my taste, the ice wine didn't worked with this dessert. Because of it's acidity, the ice wine competed against the others elements of the dessert. Chocolate, nuts and caramel are not the perfect pairing for such a wine.

[Lesley C]

David Van Laer (of Le Maxence) at the Montreal Casino last night served a caramelized endive with spice biscuit and maple syrup ice cream with an Inniskillin Icewine from the Niagara Peninsula. The wine was wonderful and worked very well with the spicy/herbal taste of the dessert. He served tarte aux pralines roses as mignardises. Very nice.

I ended up at this --interesting -- dinner after having to cancel another where a certain well-known American chef was planning on serving sauteed mushrooms on toast, rack of lamb, goat cheese terrine and fruit salad. :confused:

Tomorrow night, Eric Frechon, who I hear may be the hit of the festival so far. He also brought along his sous-chef and pastry chef -- and cod!

[Steve Klc]

Lesley--you are so chaste.  are we talking about that long-haired, motorcycle-riding star of American Iron Chef infamy?

I have heard he has a delicate touch sauteeing mushrooms.

[Lesley C]

My lips are sealed    

[Suvir Saran]

Steve what do you think of that wine paried with gianduja and milk chocolate?

Would love to hear your thoughts.

What are your favorites in Montreal for a dessert lover like myself?

Lesley, who are the great pastry chefs in Montreal?  Where are they cooking?  I live for desserts, and would love to know who is creating a sweet sensation in Montreal.  Since it is one of my favorite cities.

[Steve Klc]

Suvir & Patrice--I suspect I would have disliked the pairing, too--but did not want to influence the answer.  I have tried to understand Canadian icewines and paired chocolate desserts extensively with Canadian icewines to very limited success--and I've never achieved an ideal pairing--where both the chocolate dessert and icewine are enhanced.  (I've done most of my work with Inniskillin and Hillebrand Estates.)

And I haven't been to Montreal yet--but when I do go, I'm going to trust the opinions of Patrice and Lesley C--and perhaps we should take a roadtrip so all of us can make desserts together?  I have this idea that the 4 of us use the same ingredients--and then each do dessert independently--and then taste.

[Lesley C]

First off, Hi Patrice! Nice to run into you at Eric Fréchon last night! You were right, the desserts were the best part of the menu.

I met the Bristol’s pastry chef, Gilles Marchal. What a sweetheart. Steve Klc, do you know him? You must know of him. We had a long discussion about the Paris pastry scene and how pastry chefs are now developing their own menus, managing their own staff (he has a staff of 20 at the Bristol, or was it 30?) and generally getting the respect they deserve.

The big trend in Paris desserts according to Marchal is serving everything in glasses (no gelatin!), just like his dessert last night, a chilled chocolate sabayon with nougatine and spices topped with vanilla ice cream and gold leaf. He also served a miniature soufflé Grand Marnier with a glass of crème brulée and mulled red wine.

Suvir, we have many excellent pastry chefs in Montreal, but most hide behind the doors of pastry shops, hotels (fewer and fewer) and restaurants (only the top restos here have pastry chefs). Many are from France but there are a lot of local chefs as well. The problem here is that many young people are opting out of cooking careers. The pay is often lousy and there are fewer and fewer places for them to exploit their talents. The number of pastry students in our hotel school is dropping year after year. Many hotels now opt to buy their pastry from a wholesaler, obviously caring more about quantity than quality (let’s just fill those brunch tables with lotsa cakes!).

The pastry shop scene in Montreal is now dominated by one big name (Patisserie de Gascogne). With four, million-dollar stores in the city, this company has wiped out many of the smaller pastry shops and has taken away a lot of the momentum for young chefs willing to go into business on a small scale (that may change).

Generally the quality of the pastry in Montreal is very high and the bread is superb. I can buy first-rate baguettes at my local supermarket. Of course, we’re famous for our bagels, which are far superior to anything I’ve tasted elsewhere (and I quite like those bready New York specimens).

Steve Klc and Suvir, I would be more than happy to show the culinary sights in Montreal if you ever make it up here. I’d highly recommend a visit during this Festival. Where else can you eat at the hands of so many top chefs in one week? Be warned, however, February is about the worst month to be in Canada, unless you’re a skier (I hear Tourondel and DiSpirito both went up to Tremblant for a few days on the slopes before returning to NY).

And Steve, please, no dessert competition! After scanning your web site and reading your posts, I’m sure my rusty pastry skills could hardly compete. I haven’t worked as a pastry chef for about 5 years now (my significant other could probably give you a run for your money though).

[Patrice]

Hi Lesley, I was very pleased to finally met you yesterday.

Even if service was awful at the Ritz, I had a very good meal.

The macaroni with artichokes, foie gras and truffles was superb but, it's the dessserts stole the show.

On the menu, they seamed very simple and conventionnal: Grand Marnier Souffé, Chocolate Sabayon, Pineapple and banana tartlet.  But the surprise was when you received them, they were far more complex and original.  The chilled chocolate sabayon served in a glass was very classy and and a wonderful texture. The soufflé with his crème brûlée and the mulled wine offered a wide range of flavours and textures. I also had the banana and pineapple tartlet served with a coconut parfait and a perfect pineapple chip.

The migardises were also terrifcs: miniature chocolate tartlet, pâte de fruit, truffle ( really not the best I had) , sablé with rasberrie and gold leaf, pinenut cake.