An Ode to Philadelphia

[Mulcahy]

Hubby and I arrived in Philadelphia last Friday night for a wedding. Checked into the Ritz-Carlton (fabulously low holiday rate) and headed to our first destination: Ralph's, for the rehearsal dinner.

We had antipasto salad (very good, short on anchovies) which was followed by calamari. They must pound the calamari for hours. It was some of the most tender calamari I've ever had. Next was veal parm for me, ravioli and meatballs for hubby. Both were excellent versions of classic italian-american dishes. I didn't love the meatballs, but the ravioli was fluffy and cheesy. Mmmmm.

We retired to the Bar at the Four Seasons where we drank too much scotch with our friends.

Saturday dawned and we arose (stumbled, really, in my case) with plans to go to the Reading Terminal Market. Within seconds of arriving I turned to hubby and said "I could spend days in here." Our first stop was the salumeria where I selected a Hoagie with everything which we split for breakfast. I have never had a sandwich that well balanced and flavorful in my life. If I had the money I would commute to Philly regularly for one of those.

Next we split a rib sandwich from the rib stand in the back of the market. Also excellent, though not nearly as exciting (to me) as the Hoagie. But the bread was soft and the sauce spicy. And man it was good.

At this point my hangover was tolerable so we decided to go do touristy (non-food related) stuff. That stuff included seeing the Constitution Museum and the Liberty Bell and walking a lot to make room for cheesesteaks.

Alas we ran out of time, so were unable to make it to South Philly and had to settle for a return trip to the Reading Terminal Market and a Rick's Steak. I had never had a cheesesteak before. Well, I have had what puports to be a cheesesteak, but nothing like that. See all my prior comments about the Hoagie and commuting to Philly and apply them here. I can only imagine how good they are from the South Street legends.

Sadly, we had to cease culinary adventuring to go to the wedding (which was quite lovely and the caterer quite good) and departed the next morning for Saratoga Springs, NY.

I can't wait to come back. Neither can my husband. You all have a lovely city.

[KatieLoeb]

Hubby and I arrived in Philadelphia last Friday night for a wedding.  Checked into the Ritz-Carlton (fabulously low holiday rate) and headed to our first destination:  Ralph's, for the rehearsal dinner.

We had antipasto salad (very good, short on anchovies) which was followed by calamari.  They must pound the calamari for hours.  It was some of the most tender calamari I've ever had.  Next was veal parm for me, ravioli and meatballs for hubby.  Both were excellent versions of classic italian-american dishes.  I didn't love the meatballs, but the ravioli was fluffy and cheesy.  Mmmmm.

We retired to the Bar at the Four Seasons where we drank too much scotch with our friends.

Saturday dawned and we arose (stumbled, really, in my case) with plans to go to the Reading Terminal Market.  Within seconds of arriving I turned to hubby and said "I could spend days in here."  Our first stop was the salumeria where I selected a Hoagie with everything which we split for breakfast.  I have never had a sandwich that well balanced and flavorful in my life.  If I had the money I would commute to Philly regularly for one of those. 

Next we split a rib sandwich from the rib stand in the back of the market.  Also excellent, though not nearly as exciting (to me) as the Hoagie.  But the bread was soft and the sauce spicy.  And man it was good.

At this point my hangover was tolerable so we decided to go do touristy (non-food related) stuff.  That stuff included seeing the Constitution Museum and the Liberty Bell and walking a lot to make room for cheesesteaks.

Alas we ran out of time, so were unable to make it to South Philly and had to settle for a return trip to the Reading Terminal Market and a Rick's Steak.  I had never had a cheesesteak before.  Well, I have had what puports to be a cheesesteak, but nothing like that.  See all my prior comments about the Hoagie and commuting to Philly and apply them here.  I can only imagine how good they are from the South Street legends.

Sadly, we had to cease culinary adventuring to go to the wedding (which was quite lovely and the caterer quite good) and departed the next morning for Saratoga Springs, NY. 

I can't wait to come back.  Neither can my husband.  You all have a lovely city.

←

Why thank you!! It's so nice to hear that folks are enjoying some of the treats and places we often take for granted here.

You've discovered the worst kept secret in the world. Philly has the best sandwiches on earth. If it comes between bread, the best one is from right here. Between the hoagies, the cheesesteaks and the Roast Pork sandwiches (which you'll have to have on your next jaunt down), we Philadelphians take pride in our sandwiches. It's all about the bread and the quality of the deli meats and toppings on it. We have an embarrassment of riches with great bakeries (Sarcone's, Cacia's Amoroso's - they're all good) so we have a pretty high standard. Glad you enjoyed some of the local flavors.

Ralph's is a great choice for standard South Philly style Italian, and I'm certain was a really fun place for a rehearsal dinner, but there's a ton of other places to go for Italian, and many are BYOB, which is wonderful.

The Constitution Center is supposedly very cool and interactive and I'm embarrassed to say I haven't seen it myself yet.

Next time you're visiting give a shout here in the PA forum. There's plenty of volunteers for dining tour guides and plenty of advice for stops on your culinary adventure. Next time you just have to get to Chickie's for hoagies and Tony Luke's for a Roast Pork, Broccoli Rabe and sharp Provolone sandwich. They make a pretty mean cheesesteak at Tony Luke's too, so you can do double duty in one stop.

For what it's worth, I'm jealous that you can go to Katz's whenever you want...

[rlibkind]

You obviously enjoyed yourselves! The RTM is a one-of-a-kind. There are great markets in other cities, too, and each is unique. But, for overall diversity of food (both for cooking at home and eating there), RTM is tops.

I've long praised Salumeria's hoagies (hope you had it with the house dressing and marinated artichokes), and you are dead-on in focusing on the sandwiche's "balance". Oddly enough, many of the meats used by Salumeria come not from Philadelphia, but from Volpi's in St. Louis, which has been in business for more than 100 years.

Alas, the cheesesteaks at Rick's are not the best the city offers. They are merely passable, although they do give you an idea of what a cheesesteak should be.

The sandwich to go for next time at the RTM is Tommy DiNic's roast pork -- get it with greens and aged provolone. There will be lively discussion as to who as the best in town (I, for one, would certainly not disparage John's or Tony Luke's; I enjoy them both), but Tommy makes a good one.

Did you fit in a freshly made pretzel from Fisher's? And next time if you make it for breakfast during normal breakfast hours (I assume you didn't get to the market until about 11 a.m. when Salumeria starts serving hoagies), stop by the Down Home Diner or the Dutch Eating Place and get a side of scrapple with your eggs. A regional treat!

Edited September 7, 2004 by rlibkind (log)

[Mulcahy]

You've discovered the worst kept secret in the world.  Philly has the best sandwiches on earth.  If it comes between bread, the best one is from right here.

←

I love sandwiches. Would eat them three meals a day if I could. I can't believe that I never went to Philly for sandwiches before. (Smacks herself on head).

Ralph's was fun. Would imagine that there are many better places. But it was fun. And pretty tasty.

[Katie -- as an aside, this is the wedding you helped with. Sadly, your advice was for naught. I don't know if it was expense or failure to truly plan ahead or frazzlement, but I was served Woodbridge. Ah, well. I am still alive. Thanks again for your help. Sorry it wasn't put to good use (this is not to say I won't be buying your suggestions and drinking them on my own ).]

I've long praised Salumeria's hoagies (hope you had it with the house dressing and marinated artichokes), and you are dead-on in focusing on the sandwiche's "balance".

←

Absolutely! Had everything (including hot peppers) on it.

Rick's was so far superior to anything I have ever had called a cheesesteak that I cannot begin to imagine how good the rest of the city's are.

When I come back I am coming with no prior commitments (i.e. weddings) and am going to continue eating my way through the city.

Man, you folks are lucky.

And forgive me if this has been asked a thousand times, but where do those rolls come from??

[KatieLoeb]

[Katie -- as an aside, this is the wedding you helped with.  Sadly, your advice was for naught.  I don't know if it was expense or failure to truly plan ahead or frazzlement, but I was served Woodbridge.  Ah, well.  I am still alive.  Thanks again for your help.  Sorry it wasn't put to good use  (this is not to say I won't be buying your suggestions and drinking them on my own  ).]

Well don't that totally stink!!! What pisses me off more is that the caterer swore to me they'd be happy to accomodate their client in any way possible. I hope it was a budgetary decision and not that they LIED to me. Cool venue though, yes?

And forgive me if this has been asked a thousand times, but where do those rolls come from??

The best rolls are from Sarcone's or Cacia's bakeries, both local and wonderful institutions. The Amoroso's I mentioned earlier are the "supermarket" rolls we have down here, but they're still better than most of the bread I've seen elsewhere.

When I come back I am coming with no prior commitments (i.e. weddings) and am going to continue eating my way through the city.

Man, you folks are lucky.

Let us know your coming and we'll roll out the red carpet. I'll even fast in anticipation of showing you around

[Andrew Fenton]

Mulcahy, glad to hear that you had such a good time. You've only scratched the surface (even just among sandwiches) and I hope you'll come back.

Katie's point about Philly sandwiches is dead-on. New Orleans has a comparable sandwich culture, but I don't think anybody else can compare. Next time, as Bob mentioned, you'll have to have roast pork and greens. Not to mention the venerable Philadelphia Surf N' Turf. Maybe a tripe sandwich, if you're feeling adventurous.

[cdh]

Mulcahy, glad to hear that you had such a good time.  You've only scratched the surface (even just among sandwiches) and I hope you'll come back.

Katie's point about Philly sandwiches is dead-on.  New Orleans has a comparable sandwich culture, but I don't think anybody else can compare.  Next time, as Bob mentioned, you'll have to have roast pork and greens.  Not to mention the venerable Philadelphia Surf N' Turf.  Maybe a tripe sandwich, if you're feeling adventurous.

←

Hmmmm... tripe sandwiches? Where can one find one that's worth the trip?

[kieran]

Awww Mulcahy now I miss Philly eats bigtime.

I love my current food city (Seattle), where I moved two and a half years ago. I love the seafood and the plethora of superb East Asian places, especially Japanese food. I've never had sushi in Philly like I get here even at mediocre places. But... the pretzels! Reading Terminal! Ethiopian food! Hole in the wall joints in South Philly! And as Katie said, the sandwiches! Koch's! What I wouldn't give for a good Jewish deli. WON'T SOMEONE PLEASE THINK OF THE JEWISH DELI?

Glad to hear you had a good inaugural visit. Thanks for the recap -- nice foodie nostalgia for me.

[KatieLoeb]

Hmmmm... tripe sandwiches?  Where can one find one that's worth the trip?

←

Chris:

You've never been to George's sandwiches at SW corner of 9th & Christian next door to the pizza place???

Best Italian Sausage, Peppers and Onion sandwich known to man. And Tripe sammies too! There also used to be another sandwich place on the south side of Christain between 8th & 9th that had tripe sandwiches too. Don't recall it's name or if it's still there, but George's will do you fine.

Koch's! What I wouldn't give for a good Jewish deli. WON'T SOMEONE PLEASE THINK OF THE JEWISH DELI?

Kieran:

Now you've got me jonesing for Koch's!! Damn - it's been way too long since I've stood on line and listened to Bobby's bad jokes. I even made up a sandwich that they'd always make for me. A "Katie Special" is Spiced Beef, Chicken Salad, Jarlsberg cheese, cole slaw and Russian dressing on a Onion Roll. Yeah!!

Must. Go. To. Koch's. :drooling in anticipation:

[mrbigjas]

Chris:

You've never been to George's sandwiches at SW corner of 9th & Christian next door to the pizza place???

Best Italian Sausage, Peppers and Onion sandwich known to man.  And Tripe sammies too!  There also used to be another sandwich place on the south side of Christain between 8th & 9th that had tripe sandwiches too.  Don't recall it's name or if it's still there, but George's will do you fine.

i've had the tripe sandwich from george's and don't like it much, to tell you the truth. it can be real chewy, and has that flavor... for lack of a better word, it tastes like semidigested dirt and grass, which isn't that surprising, really, if you think about it--all tripe can have that flavor to some extent, but honeycomb has it more often, it seems to me. i don't know if it's inherent to tripe itself or if it's insufficient cleaning--and is there really ever sufficient tripe cleaning? i don't have enough experience with preparing it to know.

[mrbigjas]

p.s. mulcahy: glad you came, glad you had fun. come back anytime.

Edited September 8, 2004 by mrbigjas (log)

[Furious Flav-or]

You haven't been properly baptized in Philly until you risk your life on a hard "soft" pretzel from a street vendor at some place like Penrose Avenue at the base of the Schuykill Expressway.

Seriously, having a cheese steak or a roast pork sandwich from a quality place is good, but it's only scratching the surface of the food experience here in Philly. We have diversity and quality as well, in many different cuisines.

I can just imagine you, had you the chance to sample some ice cream from Bassett's at the RTM. You might still be here in the city, comtemplating the wonder.

Please do come back and let the regulars (I'm not one yet, but what the heck) know in advance. You'll be fêted and stuffed as never before.

Edited September 8, 2004 by Furious Flav-or (log)

[MarketStEl]

I love my current food city (Seattle), where I moved two and a half years ago. I love the seafood and the plethora of superb East Asian places, especially Japanese food. I've never had sushi in Philly like I get here even at mediocre places.

←

In all the years you were at Penn, Kieran, you never made it over to Sagami in Collingswood?

Since I've never been to Seattle and probably will not make it that way anytime soon, I will have no way to judge my assertion, but Sagami certainly stands head and shoulders above every other Japanese restaurant in the Philadelphia area. I suspect its sushi would hold its own against anything Seattle has to offer. Okay, almost anything.

Perusing this thread, I note that eGullet's Pennsylvania contingent appears to be a haven for upenn.talk exiles and alt.fan.kieran-snyder readers on Usenet. Coincidence?

[MarketStEl]

While we're talking sandwiches, and at the risk of repeating myself:

Two words: Planet Hoagie.

I see they now offer cheesesteaks as well. I will have to try one and report back on whether it is the equal of (a) their hoagies (b) Philly's best cheesesteaks.

(Planet Hoagie: 1208 Walnut Street; also in Norristown, Media and Brigantine, NJ)

I note that Hatfield is the chain's supplier. I don't see too many hoagie shops that use them. Any others?

(Hatfield kielbasa is very good--better than the national brand you see everywhere.)

--Sandy, free-associating

[kieran]

In all the years you were at Penn, Kieran, you never made it over to Sagami in Collingswood?

Since I've never been to Seattle and probably will not make it that way anytime soon, I will have no way to judge my assertion, but Sagami certainly stands head and shoulders above every other Japanese restaurant in the Philadelphia area.  I suspect its sushi would hold its own against anything Seattle has to offer.  Okay, almost anything.

Perusing this thread, I note that eGullet's Pennsylvania contingent appears to be a haven for upenn.talk exiles and alt.fan.kieran-snyder readers on Usenet.  Coincidence?

←

I have heard good things about Sagami, but I haven't been there myself. It's on our list next time we roll through town, probably around the holidays. In general it's hard for me to take time to have sushi in Philly, since I get such excellent stuff here and there's a lot of stuff there that I miss that I can't have here. So I tend to focus on that stuff when I'm in town.

K.

[KatieLoeb]

I have heard good things about Sagami, but I haven't been there myself. It's on our list next time we roll through town, probably around the holidays. In general it's hard for me to take time to have sushi in Philly, since I get such excellent stuff here and there's a lot of stuff there that I miss that I can't have here. So I tend to focus on that stuff when I'm in town.

K.

←

Skip Sagami - head to Fuji. See other threads in this forum for details.

[Andrew Fenton]

Perusing this thread, I note that eGullet's Pennsylvania contingent appears to be a haven for upenn.talk exiles and alt.fan.kieran-snyder readers on Usenet.  Coincidence?

←

Hmm. Six years at Penn, and I never heard about upenn.talk... Missed out, I guess...

[kieran]

Skip Sagami - head to Fuji.  See other threads in this forum for details.

←

So I hear! We were staying with mrbigjas and mrsbigjas the night you went to Fuji. I heard the completely delicious detailed account. It did sound awfully good.

[KatieLoeb]

So I hear! We were staying with mrbigjas and mrsbigjas the night you went to Fuji. I heard the completely delicious detailed account. It did sound awfully good.

←

Aha! The Mystery Houseguests revealed!

[mrbigjas]

So I hear! We were staying with mrbigjas and mrsbigjas the night you went to Fuji. I heard the completely delicious half-drunken babbling gushing detailed account. It did sound awfully good.

←

fixed that for you.

best oysters i ever had. possibly the best sake i've ever had--by which i mean it's something i would enjoy drinking all the time, which most any sake i've ever had has not been.

and sandy, i'm not an exile from anywhere.

and andrew, it's usenet--i don't know if you bother with it.

[Behemoth]

Hmm.  Six years at Penn, and I never heard about upenn.talk...  Missed out, I guess...

←

Kieran?! First friendster, now this. Shouldn't you be busy watching reality TV or something? You were right, btw, TIVO did change our lives for the better. (Can you guess who I am?)

Oh, right. The Topic. I miss Philadelphia like crazy. It is especially hard on July 4th or labor day, when my "friends" in the 215 call and "invite" me to their west philly backyard BBQ. (Okay okay, I am so socially desparate over here I was flattered that they remembered...)

Sigh.

[kieran]

Kieran?!  First friendster, now this. Shouldn't you be busy watching reality TV or something?  You were right, btw, TIVO did change our lives for the better. (Can you guess who I am?)

Oh, right. The Topic.  I miss Philadelphia like crazy. It is especially hard on July 4th or labor day, when my "friends" in the 215 call and "invite" me to their west philly backyard BBQ.  (Okay okay, I am so socially desparate over here I was flattered that they remembered...)

Sigh.

←

Nadia! I am very crafty.

OBfood: another thing I miss about Philadelphia is the food trucks. If there were food trucks near where I worked now they'd make an absolute fortune.

Edited September 11, 2004 by kieran (log)

[Furious Flav-or]

Nadia! I am very crafty.

OBfood: another thing I miss about Philadelphia is the food trucks. If there were food trucks near where I worked now they'd make an absolute fortune.

←

When April's BBQ truck gets picked up by a Sikorsky to the strains of Wagner we'll know who was responsible…