Eating in Thessaloniki

[kerriar]

This may be a bit off the beaten track for most but may strike a cord with some. About four years ago I was in Thessaloniki for a conference and was taken to what a native described as the best fish restaurant in town - and it was very good. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name but it was in the eastern suburbs, about 20 minutes by taxi from the centre. Can anybody help - or offer any other suggestions in the area?

[therese]

I'd also be interested in any dining suggestions for Thessaloniki. I'll be there for a conference (in the center of town so far as I can tell) in September.

[nikko]

This may be a bit off the beaten track for most but may strike a cord with some.  About four years ago I was in Thessaloniki for a conference and was taken to what a native described as the best fish restaurant in town - and it was very good. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name but it was in the eastern suburbs, about 20 minutes by taxi from the centre. Can anybody help - or offer any other suggestions in the area?

I used to go to Thessaloniki every summer. Unfortunately, I never had enough time to search great restaurants or explore local market.

It's been 2-3years since my last visit, though I hope to return soon & am trying to gather some information. I have since collected some Thessaloniki restaurant reviews from Greek magazine. I'll post some good-sounding ones.

kerriar, what did you eat at the fish restaurant ? I don't think I know that restaurant, but am curious.

[therese]

Any info helpful, nikko. I've got a colleague who went to university in Thessaloniki but that's now too long ago to be of much help. The English language web sites out there that I've found don't have much to offer, so info from Greek print or electronic media would be much appreciated.

[nikko]

Thessaloniki is renowned for its Politiki kouzina (Constantinople-style cooking) and there are many restaurants specializing it.

"To Peran" (Politiki kouzina)

22 Iktinou

tel: 2310-252977

opening hours: 13:00-01:00 (Mon-Sat)

price: 10-15euro excl. wine

According to the magazine article, they serve 30 different souzoukakia (Smyrna sausage. similar to meatballs) and 25 pilafs. Other dishes include:

- gavro politiko (fresh anchovy Contantinople-style)

- pita kesarias (spiced&dried beef with cheese and tomato in phyllo)

- dolmadakia yalanji me lahano (meatless stuffed cabbage)

- sikotakia Peran pano se pita (liver served on pitta)

- sardela dolma me amberophylla (sardines wrapped in vine leaves)

- keftedes me prigouri ke karidi (meatballs with bulgur & walnuts)

- kavourma politiko (kind of beef confit?)

- Simit kebab (with pistachio)

- Beyti kebab (in phyllo? & grilled)

For dessert, there are syrupy cakes & pastries as well as homemade grika koutariou (fruits preserved in syrup). House wine (organic Mesimbrias) is good, and there are about 70 Greek wines. You can also try Turkish raki.

"Sotiris Adalakis" (Ouzeri)

1 Hapsa & Karatasou

tel: 2310-544844

opening hours: 13:00-20.00??? (Mon-Sat)

price: 24-35euro incl. wine

This place seems to serve some interesting dishes as well as good basic stuff:

- fried zucchini served with tzatziki

- grilled eggplant

- kolokithokeftedes (zucchini patties)

- patzarosalata (beetroot salad)

- soupies gemistes me spanaki (cuttlefish stuffed with spinach)

- psari me lemonata prasa (fish with lemony leek)

- kalamari gemisto me tyri (squid stuffed with cheese)

- midia me kritharaki (mussels with orzo)

- khtapodi se kokhli me kokkinisto kritharaki (octopus in shell? with orzo in tomato sauce)

- peskandritsa yakhni (fish stew)

- grilled fish with onions & olive oil

Try tsipouro (it's like grappa) or choose from large selection of Greek wines. For dessert, there's syrupy pastry with kaimaki ice cream. BTW "kaimaki" in Greece is not a kind of cream; it's mastic flavored ice cream which often has stretchy texture similar to Turkish ice cream. In northern Greece, it's called dondourma. I read that kaimaki and dondourma are different, but found they are the same, at least the ones I've tried.

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I wonder if above mentioned "Sotiris" is the "Sotiri's Place" Paula Wolfert wrote about in her wonderful book "The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean"? Ms.Wolfert wrote recipe for eggplants slowly grilled over hot coals.

During my first visit to Thessaloniki, I had to have one sweet bougatsa a day. Bougatsa is a pie with custard, cheese, or meat filling. I like it better than garaktoboureko (syrupy milk pie) because it's made without syrup, and they are always served warm. When you buy, they cut it into bite-sized pieces & sprinkle cinnamon on top.

Edited August 4, 2004 by nikko (log)

[kerriar]

kerriar, what did you eat at the fish restaurant ? I don't think I know that restaurant, but am curious.

I think the meal included some mezes, several plates of small fried fish which arrived together and the main course was a dorade (sea bream). What I recall more clearly was the professionalism of the place and the stylish yet unpretentious little ceremony (I know it's common to most Greek restaurants) of bring the customer to the cold room to choose from a good selection of the freshest fish. The wine we left to an enthusiastic wine waiter who gave us a viognier and then a chardonnay - both were locally produced, unexceptional and perhaps a little expensive.

The restaurant seemed to be in a residential area. At the end of October it was already dark when we arrived - we eat indoors but perhaps there is a terrace in summer. I think the place is well known locally - both our hotel and taxi driver knew it as "the best restaurant in Thessaloniki" and told us we would eat well and we were not disappointed.

My daughter is going to Thessaloniki later this month and I would like to give her at least one recommendation - although I suspect she may take it up only if I offer to pay. Work involves me in a certain amount of travel and some local information is always good if you want to eat well - keeping some notes is a good remedy for a failing memory but eGullet is a great source and much more dependable.

[anil]

Agora Modiano in Thessaloniki - It is one of the most exciting open markets in the region. You can wine and dine open air taverna style. It is actually a very good food market, just like Boqueria, off ramblas in Barcelona.

Edited August 4, 2004 by anil (log)

[nikko]

The restaurant seemed to be in a residential area. At the end of October it was already dark when we arrived - we eat indoors but perhaps there is a terrace in summer. I think the place is well known locally - both our hotel and taxi driver knew it as "the best restaurant in Thessaloniki" and told us we would eat well and we were not disappointed.

It seems best way to find out the name of that restaurant is to ask the locals once your daughter gets there.

Maybe I've been to that restaurant too, though I can't remember the name or location.

[therese]

Back from a work trip to Thessaloniki, where I ended up eating in a number of upmarket restaurants that I'd characterize as being purpose-built for tourists, except that they were all packed with Greeks. Greek tourists, perhaps.

The first one was called Interni, located next door to the Makedonia Palace Hotel, right on the waterfront. The second was called Kitchen Bar, located in a rehabbed warehouse in the old port, so also right on the water. The third was the Roof Garden at the Hotel Electra, so not on the water but open air with great views of the water and the city.

Food best at the Electra, worst at Kitchen Bar.

All three actually enjoyable experiences in spite of the food. Sometimes dinner's not about the food.

Edited October 4, 2004 by therese (log)