[Houston] Antone's Po'Boys

[fifi]

Due to the evil influence of the "Must-Eats" Around Houston, that you just have to have, I just had to have a red wrapper for lunch. I don't have an Antone's in my area, so I depend on the sandwiches delivered to my local Randall's when one of these cravings strikes and I am out of range.

Now, it has been a while since this happened and I have had to imbibe so maybe my memory is failing me. I also make allowances for the fact that it has been in the fridge for a while and is not going to be quite the same as one made minutes ago in a high turnover shop at lunch time. However... I think they have changed the bread. It seems all wrong to me. It used to be more akin to a French baguette style, similar to but not exactly like po'boy bread you might see in New Orleans. This one is like a heavier version of a hot dog bun with a similar flabby crust. I am in a state of profound disappointment.

Is this my imagination or do we need to:

Get a rope!

While we are at it, what is your favorite version of the Antone's po'boy? Side goodies?

[Mayhaw Man]

Ya gotta have a brick oven to get bread like we have here and there are just a very few of these places left in South Louisiana (such as Lejeunes Bakery in Jennerette, where I am pictured with a large bag full of real South Louisiana French Bread) that still make the real stuff. Leidenheimer's and Binders (my personal favorite) still make the stuff by the ton and I know that a large part of their business is sending it to Houston, New York, and other Yankee outposts. You should ask what kind of bread that they make them with.

Now that I have finished entertaining myself I will ask you a serious question- These are premade sandwiches from Antone's? Please tell me about them. Where are they made? Houston? Austin? What kind of meat do they put on them and do they come dressed or plain?

[fifi]

First a little history that I may get wrong but the gist will be right. Antone's started as a deli on Taft street near downtown a long time ago. Or, they may have started at a place before the Taft location even before that. Then they started making premade po'boy's, wrapped in butcher paper with a blue seal. That is the original "blue wrapper". They were a hit and made Antone's, and the sandwich, a Houston institution, not just a place to go and buy good olives and other goodies. Then, dad died and the kids and mother got into a huge fight and one faction split off to open the sandwich shops.

(I know that I don't have the whole story here. When I have more time I will see if I can find my account number for the Chronicle to get into the archives. The bust up was quite a few years ago. The whole thing was the talk of Houston and the law suits and such were watched intently. Of course, the first fear of most Houstonians was, "What is going to happen to the po'boys?" While the theatre of the situation was fun to watch, we had to keep our priorities straight. If I can't find a quick and easy reference to tell the real story, maybe someone here knows it and can correct my errors. The whole thing was reminiscent of the Copeland's brouhaha over Popeye's.)

The spec's are: A chunk of bread pretty much like the skinny baguette's you get in New Orleans, about 9 inches long. (I don't know where they come from but that is what they have always been.) That is split and thin sliced ham, provolone, salami, mayo, dill pickle slices and chow chow are the ingredients. The chow chow and the bread were what made them distinctive.

Then they came out with other variations and other colors on the wrapper stickers. The one I got today is the red wrapper "Super" which are the original ingredients but 75% more meat and cheese. Actually, I don't like these very much. There is too much meat and cheese. The original was all about the bread and the fillings were like a condiment. It was the same principle as the Central Grocery muffalata. But, Randall's was out of the blue wrappers so I figured I would just have to suffer through.

A classic Houston lunch is a blue wrapper, a bag of chips, and a Dr. Pepper or maybe one of those fancy schmancy Dr. Brown's sodas.

Now, it appears that they have screwed around with the bread. This is a disaster.

[Mayhaw Man]

They sound delicious. Being the Texas Music Freak that I am (Texas Music is Big! ) was associating Antone's Sandwiches with this Antone's. I should have known that Texas (It's Big!) is beg enough to have two guys named Antone. One guy p=has live music, the other has food.

I love chow chow on sandwiches. Especially ham and cheese.

[fifi]

I had to laugh at the reviews in MM's link. You don't go into the sandwich shops and expect much in traditional deli service. I would have to guess that most (90%?) of the business is the prewrapped po'boys and sides. They just don't handle custom made sandwiches well. Like I said, with good turnover like at lunch time, the premade sandwiches were just fine. And the bread held up quite well. I have even bought some to take home and eat later and they were ok. I don't know about this suspicious bread that I just got, though.

I think the final split in ownership was the sandwich shops and the stores. I may be wrong about that, too.

Perhaps we can shake Robb loose from his book tours long enough to enlighten us and look into this critical matter.

[Dignan]

Also due to the discussion in the aforementioned Houston must eats thread, and specifically Madame fifi's post, I went to Randall's last week and bought a regular original Antones po'boy. I have been here for years but never had had one before, and I must say I was disappointed.

The main problem was indeed the bread. Foamy soft hot dog bread, no crust or substance. I was expecting something baguettish. I actually ended up pulling the meat and dressing out of the bread and ate it solo. The rest of the bread went into the bin.

I intend to try an Antone's shop and compare.

[jess mebane]

they're still better at the shop, always at the shop. Here in Austin I was so thrilled to see Antone's make it out westward, only to find little soggy mummys in the beer cooler at Exxon TigerMart. Anytime we're leaving Houston, we go by an Antone's on the way out and eat PoBoys all the way back to Travis County.

[fifi]

Please do, Dignan. I will try that as well. What you should be looking for is a baguette sort of bread with a nice crust, soft insides and very good flavor. If we are fortunate, maybe they only use the lousy bread for the sandwiches they send to Randall's.

[Bwana64]

Fifi,

Let me help you get your story straight. I don't know all the details but I know a few. First, the "original" is a green wrapper, "super" is red, "tuna" is blue, etc. Secondly, a real Antones po-boy is served on french bread from Royal Bakery on Dunlavy in the Montrose. This place is still in business(I pass it on the way to work daily). I think the sandwiches at Randalls are on different bread. There is no mistaking the real deal. I went to the Antones on Taft recently and they said they were closing down. Real tragedy. A few years back I stopped at Royal Bakery and asked if I could buy some bread. He said, "you got money?". I said "yeah". He said "then you can buy some bread". I bought 2 paper grocery sacks full of the 18 inch loaves and he charged me about $3.00. I served the bread with some shrimp etoufee and some red beans and rice at a party, and it was a big hit. Thats all I know. Just trying to get the facts straight.

Bwana64

[fifi]

Welcome Bwana64! Thanks for the first post.

You are correct about the colors, of course. I think I get blue stuck in my head because ever so often I just have to have one of the tunas. I am so glad that the real deal is still available. Now all I have to do is find a handy shop. Unfortunately, their web site is under construction.

That the Taft location is closing is sad news indeed.

So we are back to whoever makes those things for Randall's...

Get a rope!

Trust me on this... You don't want one of those.

[Bwana64]

Yeah, I'm with you on the Randall's bread. It's horrible. Every time I shop at Randall's my reciept says "you've earned 7 free sandwiches at Randall's deli". I tried one, and they can have the rest. I know for a fact that Segari's at Shepherd and Maxie serves the same bread that Antones uses. Go try Sam Segari's seafood gumbo and I think you will agree its the best in town. But I digress. Have you notices that Droubi's Imports has been expanding locations and now has a po-boy similar to Antone's, but not quite the same?

[FoodMan]

I've never been a fan of Antone's sandwiches. the bread always tasted/felt like hotdog buns and the filling was way too plain. All this history is very interesting though.

Elie

[fifi]

I've never been a fan of Antone's sandwiches. the bread always tasted/felt like hotdog buns and the filling was way too plain. All this history is very interesting though.

Elie

The history is there because I am never sure who is making what kind of sandwich. I just got back from Randall's and the wrapper says something like "Made under license by Tasty Po'Boys" or some such thing. Antone's should probably look into that.

If all you have had is the heavy-hot-dog-bun imposter, you haven't had one.

Now that I think of it, The original green wrapper reminds me of a New Orleans muffaletta from Central Grocery, at least in concept. It is all about the bread, a bit of ham, salami and cheese for flavor, and the chow-chow to give it zip. Change the bread, substitute the olive salad and the muffaletta is built on the same concept. Or, vice versa since I think muffalettas were "invented" about 1906.

Now if Droubi's would expand their way down to the bay area, I would be a really happy camper. I used to eat lunch there a lot when I worked downtown. Now, I try to schedule downtown meetings so that I can go in there and get my "fix".

[jess mebane]

I know for a fact that Segari's at Shepherd and Maxie serves the same bread that Antones uses. Go try Sam Segari's seafood gumbo and I think you will agree its the best in town. But I digress.

Accurate and revelatory info about H-town that we can use, man!!!! Digress on!

[LDLee]

I know for a fact that Segari's at Shepherd and Maxie serves the same bread that Antones uses.

Where is Segari's now? Last I knew, the original one burned down. Always enjoyed his gumbo.

[FoodMan]

I've never been a fan of Antone's sandwiches. the bread always tasted/felt like hotdog buns and the filling was way too plain. All this history is very interesting though.

Elie

The history is there because I am never sure who is making what kind of sandwich. I just got back from Randall's and the wrapper says something like "Made under license by Tasty Po'Boys" or some such thing. Antone's should probably look into that.

If all you have had is the heavy-hot-dog-bun imposter, you haven't had one.

Now that I think of it, The original green wrapper reminds me of a New Orleans muffaletta from Central Grocery, at least in concept. It is all about the bread, a bit of ham, salami and cheese for flavor, and the chow-chow to give it zip. Change the bread, substitute the olive salad and the muffaletta is built on the same concept. Or, vice versa since I think muffalettas were "invented" about 1906.

Now if Droubi's would expand their way down to the bay area, I would be a really happy camper. I used to eat lunch there a lot when I worked downtown. Now, I try to schedule downtown meetings so that I can go in there and get my "fix".

This really makes want to seek out a true Antone's and try their sandwiches.

Elie

[Bwana64]

LdLee,

Segari's is in a little house at the corner of Shepherd and Maxie. South of I-10, near Pizzitolas bbq, Hofbrau, Caddilac Bar, etc. There's not a sign visible from the street. You just have to know where it is. There's no menu. He serves great gumbo, huge fried shrimp, outstanding lump crabmeat, redfish, steaks, chicken and burgers done any way you want. Oh, and don't miss the blue cheese salad. It's not cheap, but the food is excellent.

Bwana64

[fifi]

Sounds like someone needs to "take one for the team", go to Segari's, take pictures, and report back here on a Segari's thread.

I don't get "into town" much so first one has dibs.

[FoodMan]

...And here's the address:

Segari's

505 Durham

Houston, TX 77007

(713) 880-2470

I am planning on giving it a try soon.

Elie

[hazardnc]

I popped back into the Texas forum after a short hiatus, and found my mention of Antone's po'boys started a decent discussion.

When I was at Memorial High School in the '70's, my friends and I would make a quick dash to the Voss location (is it still there?) for the Original at lunch - again with a mandatory side of Fritos and a Dr. Pepper.

I am in Charlotte, NC now and cannot get Antones. My substitute: french mini baguettes, turkey, Genoa salami, provolone and Wickles relish. I know Antone's uses chow chow, but I have tried several varieties here and have not found anything that tastes as good as Wickles Relish.

Now - will someone PLEASE get the recipe for Nielsen's Deli potatos salad? If you haven't tried it, you must. It is different from any you have ever had. There are no pickles, there is no mustard --- it is out of this world!

[FoodMan]

Now - will someone PLEASE get the recipe for Nielsen's Deli potatos salad? If you haven't tried it, you must. It is different from any you have ever had. There are no pickles, there is no mustard --- it is out of this world!

This is the second time you mention this. I must give it a try at the earliest possible chance and if I can pry the secret recipe from the proprietior I will give that a try as well. This is Nielsen's on Richmond close to loop 610 right?

Elie

[Bwana64]

Hazardnc,

The Voss location is now a Droubi's imports which has its own version of the po-boy. Antone's has one nearby on Voss, in a newer retail center. It's in the SE corner of the Voss/San Felipe intersection. Hey, I went to MHS too, class of '82!

Food man,

The mayo in Nielsen's potato salad, and egg salad is the secret. Mrs. Nielsen was from Belgium and makes her mayo from scratch. Check it out.

Bwana64

[fifi]

This Nielsen's talk is getting pretty interesting. I split off a new thread here.

Now, you guys get out there and eat potato salad!

[Dignan]

So I had some time today and went to Antone's at 2424 Dunstan in the Village for a "The Original" "Super Po-boy." Super means that there is more meat in the sandwich. It is $3.85 as compared to a regular "The Original" at $3.35. I examined and hefted both and couldn't tell a distinct difference between the two in that fashion -- note that even at the stand alone Antone's the sandwiches were already made and wrapped and sitting in the refrigerated reach in.

The sandwich contains the following: ham, provolone, salami, mayo, hot chow chow, and dill pickles.

Here's what it looks like (and I apologize for the quality of the pictures -- they were taken with an antiquidated picture cell phone (yes, I used antiquated and picture cell phone all in the same sentence) which I've never really used before. If the pictures hurt your eyes or just generally are useless, let me know and I'll yank them. I took a nice picture of the store itself, but apparently didn't save it). The first is a shot of the sandwich closed, the second is open so that you can sort of see the insides. The red spread is the hot chow chow.

My opinion is that is a much better sandwich than the one I bought at Randall's. The bread is of a definate better quality than the foamy hotdog bread at Randall's, though I think I was expecting a sandwich more like a pressed cuban as far as the bread. You can see the cleft in the crust of the baguette in the first photo, and it was an honest one, where as the one on the Randall's bread was the more manufactured cleft like that found on a loaf of sliced white bread. It had a good bite and a good chew.

The chow chow applies a mild bit of spice which works nicely with the mayo as well as the pickle at the same time. It was a good sandwich, with a reasonable price. I myself trend towards sandwhich dressings that aren't so creamy, like a spicy mustard, or a vinegar/oil treatment. I would never order mayo on a sandwich, but because of the chow chow (cabbage, vinegar, onions, sweet green peppers, paprika, sugar, salt, and other things) I could enjoy this one. I'll eat another.

[fifi]

Many thanks for the diligent research. Now that looks like what I remember. As I said above, I prefer the regular as I find the meat, bread, seasoning ratio more pleasing. It may not be haute cuisine, but it is somewhat addicting.

I don't know any of the shops that "make to order" with any aplomb. They have always been prewrapped in the fridge case. Turnover at lunch time means that they are usually fine and they "weather" rather well.

The buns at my Randall's didn't even have a fake cleft that I remember.

Those pictures are pretty good to have come from a cell phone. Ain't technology grand.