Le Lan - Chicago

[ronnie_suburban]

What a let-down, George. So sorry to hear how unenjoyable your experience was.

Based on your descriptions, it doesn't sound like the problems were related to the fact that the restaurant is only a few weeks old. Care to comment on that aspect?

=R=

[gmi3804]

What a let-down, George.  So sorry to hear how unenjoyable your experience was.

Based on your descriptions, it doesn't sound like the problems were related to the fact that the restaurant is only a few weeks old.  Care to comment on that aspect?

=R=

Sure.

I'm conscious of the fact that the place is only a month or so old. I take that into account when deciding when to go; I typically like to wait until the growing pains subside and initial wrinkles can be ironed out. In this case, we were invited to go, so we decided to relax our usual standards of high taste JUST THIS ONCE!

Atmosphere is a factor in the justification of high prices. Of course, atmosphere is just one part of the dining experience, but if a place has a unique location (North Pond, The Signature Room, Tavern on the Green (in NYC), etc.), the food quality becomes slightly less of a factor in determining overall experience. In the case of Le Lan, the noisy room and crowded dining space is a constant roadblock in the enjoyment of the meal, and the food we had just didn't justify the uncomfortable surroundings. If a place aspires to be "fine dining" (even casual fine dining), there should be an effort made to make the diner comfortable; good lighting, acceptable noise level, and space are luxuries for which I don't mind paying extra. Tables are jammed uncomfortably close together at Le Lan, so close that the diner is constantly interrupted by waitstaff which can barely navigate the dining room. At the back wall where we sat under the flourescent lights of the mural didn't make any of us feel good (the correct color of the wine in our glasses couldn't even be determined); the lighting of a space makes a subliminal impact on the experience. Atmosphere issues can be remedied, however, but at what cost? The assumption is that many big bucks were spent on the design here. I'm not sure if the business plan would survive either a revamping of the lighting scheme or the removal of tables, i.e., revenue, in order to make the diners (who can't seem to get enough of this place, at least for now) more comfortable.

Flavors are subjective, and lovers of thyme may swoon over ice cream that tastes like pencil shavings. Not everyone has to love everything. But when the highs are few and far between, the lows seem lower than they might under better circumstances.

I got the feeling that Le Lan is fairly settled into what it's going to be, and that many changes are not planned for the immediate future. It's set lofty ambitions for itself, with prices to match. It falls short of its aspirations in key areas. To that end, I'd not make it a priority to go back anytime soon.

[ronnie_suburban]

Thanks for the thoughtful elaboration, George.

=R=

[gmi3804]

Today's review by Pat Bruno in the Sun-Times gives Le Lan two stars.

$40 for three courses? Huh?!? The entrees are $25-$35!

LE LAN / **

[Hobbes]

Your impressions of Le Lan gmi3804, along with other posters here, seems to describe a level of confusion that is being translated into the dining experience at once dubbed "Chicago's most widely anticipated restaurant opening" by Food & Wine magazine. No doubt Chef Roland and Arun are 4 star chefs in their own kitchens but dose combining the two superstars into one kitchen equal 8 stars or confusion; dose the old adage apply in this case; too many chef spoil the soup? For myself I will leave that question unanswered until I get an opportunity to eat there myself and assess Le Lan's essence.

I am posting here today after reading the article Dynamic Duo in the new edition of Chicago's Newcity

that poses the question, "Can super chefs Arun and Roland team up to take Le Lan to great heights? Or will egos collide? Read on"

It seem to me after reading this article that even Chef Arun and Roland are questioning the direction and inspiration they want Le Lan to follow. It seems that in the chefs' own words that the restaurant is in flux and that is the way it should be. In the article the chefs both discussed changing the concept of the the deccor by adding a lounge space upstairs allowing there to be more space in the main dining room to adding more French touches. "I didn't plan to have the whole thing Asian," Sampanthavivat says. And though the lounge upstairs should be more West meets East than East meets West, "We have to add more French design, since we have Roland who is a French chef, we might as well stay with his expertise." Food concepts seem to even be a struggle the article alludes to. "...Sampanthavivat now relays him an earlier question, regarding how they will treat traditionally heavier French food in the light, airy environment of Le Lan. Both nod and smile, acknowledging that this task has been much harder than combining the talents of two food experts".

excerpt from article:

And with the food, it's like the design of the room. It's not that  it doesn't look, or taste great, it's just not their concept yet.  Everyone agrees that the menu needs tweaking, that they're still  working.

"The main thing," Liccioni says, "Is that we have young, talented  kids who want to learn and are eager to do this. It's good for them.  Give them some hands and open their minds."  [by kids Liccioni includes his Chef de Cuisiene, Andy Motto.  Read article for more information].

"And," Sampanthavivat says, "That we are learning from each other.  But the process of learning, and the beginning, this is some new thing  for both of us, and trying to do two ambitious concepts at once. In  other words, trying to find a balance." A balance of chefs, a balance of  gourmet food with a casual setting, a balance of a bar atmosphere with fine dining, a balance of East with West.

And meanwhile, a waiter downstairs approaches Reno.  [Reno being, pasty chef Joel Reno, previously at Les Nomades now at Le Lan].

"Um, listen, a woman is saying that her coconut sorbet didn't taste  like coconut," the waiter says.

I laugh; Reno does not.

After reading this article it seems that Chef Arun and Roland are really being open and experimenting and defining and keeping Le Lan as a 'work in progress.' This I see could translate into the dining room as confusion on the part on the diner.

-Hobbes

[gmi3804]

After reading this article it seems that Chef Arun and Roland are really being open and experimenting and defining and keeping Le Lan as a  'work in progress.'  This I see could translate into the dining room as confusion on the part on the diner.

Shouldn't part of a good dining experience be the consistency of the product and the service? Even if the product is ever-evolving and reinventing itself? I just don't think Le Lan has hit its stride yet. I'm hopeful for its future success, because it's just the type of place, if done right, I really love.

The fact that it's already giving out 1,000 points for select reservations on the Open Table online reservation service is not a good sign.

[Hobbes]

Shouldn't part of a good dining experience be the consistency of the product and the service?  Even if the product is ever-evolving and reinventing itself?  I just don't think Le Lan has hit its stride yet.  I'm hopeful for its future success, because it's just the type of place, if done right, I really love.

gmi3804 I am in complete agreement with you, consistency in product and in service is the hallmark of quality and imperative for a upper echelon rating and experience. In my second post I was just relaying an article that shows that both Chef Arun and Chef Roland seem to be content in many ways to keep Le Lan in flux so to speak and really holding back my oppion because I have not yet dined there myself. I will offer my opinion by piggy-backing on other's dining experiences and other articles in the media. This constant flux, I feel, will eventually lead to mediocrity if the Chefs do not refine and tune in to their strengths and relay confidence in their products (service and food). Ultimately this alone could be one of Le Lan's Akillies heal. Your experience at Le Lan communicated to me that there is something lost in translation when the two top toques joined forces, they just seem confused and this article seems to convey this as well, in the chefs own words. The only way constant re-evolution and flux can be successful in a restaurant environment is that the techniques utilized are 100% quality and portrayed in confidence; not mediocrity (wishy-washyness). It seems that what techniques Le Lan wants to use by the Chefs themselves is in question and until then I feel that Le Lan is sadly in trouble. I am ready and waiting for Le Lan's ends to meet and their namesake, the orchid, fit to a 'T' where there is a synergy between service and food where confidence is conveyed with a deft hand of simplicity. I found this synergy at Gramercy Tavern and Aquavit when I dined there in 2003 and at Jean Georges NYC when I worked there as a cook. Like you a place like this, if done well, I relly love as well. I have my fingers crossed.

-Hobbes

**Edited to clarify some points

Edited August 21, 2004 by Hobbes (log)

[ronnie_suburban]

Phil Vettel has spoken...

So you take one four-star chef, add another four-star chef, and you get-a two-star restaurant?

The calculus might not sound right, but after several visits of crunching appetizers, if not actual numbers, that's what I've got.

Two stars isn't bad, but it's clear that Le Lan is aiming much higher.

Here's a link to the full review, which appeared in the Chicago Tribune on Friday November 12*.

=R=

*Pretty sure about this; on-line version of the review has no date.

[Sweet Willie]

Amusee to start: spring roll (not fried) of shaved shallot, bean sprouts, shaved celery with a vinaigrette.

Appetizers: Duo of Vietnamese Spring Rolls. Cold: slow roasted pork, shrimp, sweet spicy shallots and Warm: Chicken, vermicelli, four pepper vinaigrette. Also Banh Xeo.

Entrees: Roast Duck Breast w/Seared Foie Gras. Lemongrass duck rillette, confit of plum, creamy polenta, green cardamom jus. Roasted Rack of Lamb w/Red Curried Loin. Fennel salad, sweet coconut gnocchi, eggplant chutney.

Amusee was a wonderful way to start.

Banh Xeo was ok, but also included on this plate were a couple deep fried mushrooms w/a light batter over a marinated mushroom salad. Also crispy pork belly served w/a chopped mango salsa. Mushrooms and crispy pork belly were terrific.

The duck and foie gras were cooked perfectly so pretty hard to mess that combination up.

The lamb rack and loin were two of the best pieces of lamb I’ve ever had, so full of flavor. Combined w/the salad and chutney made this a very enjoyable dish.

A couple flights of Pinot Noir were the wine of choice for us.

With an Executive Chef of Roland Liccioni along w/Chef Arun (yes that Arun) Sampanthavivat, I expected more out of Le Lan. Menu and the flavors we experienced are more in the French category rather than Viet.

Le Lan Restaurant

749 North Clark Street

Chicago

312.280.9100

http://www.lelanrestaurant.com

[jonlmac]

"With an Executive Chef of Roland Liccioni along w/Chef Arun (yes that Arun) Sampanthavivat, I expected more out of Le Lan. Menu and the flavors we experienced are more in the French category rather than Viet."

Willie, I don't get it...every food comment was good and some were amazing sounding....it also sounded like a good blend of French and Asian flavors...what more were you expecting

[jonlmac]

It looks like the fact that Chefs Arun and Roland were open to evolving has paid off since it was named Best New Restaurant in Chicago Magazine