Cap Ferrat & Beaulieu

[Gary Marshall]

a favourite haunt of the UK's wealthiest restaurant reviewer michael winner , but my friend a mere mortal chef, has booked himself in for dinner but is unsure if the high prices are justified, even though it has 2 stars it looks expensive.

anyone been?

thanks

gary

[robert brown]

I had dinner there last summer. It is the best of the three hotel dining rooms along that short stretch of shoreline that encompasses La Reserve, Le Metropole, and the Royal Riviera. I liked my dinner at La Reserve more than my wife did. The chef learned at Robuchon and you can get the famous mashed potatoes. We had a 60 euro menu that now looks to be 70 euros. The wine list has suffered over the years (so what else is new?) and it presents less value for money than the food. So while La Reserve is expense on an absolute basis, I didn't feel ripped off as I did at the two other hotels.

[Nikolaus]

I have been there once, last year. Food and everything quite correct, but I found it without soul, and all quite stiff and formal. Seems to be in town rather than on the shore. And Yes: it seems overpriced to me, where justification lies all in ambience, and less in the plate.

If You want something less formal but still accurate in the area, try La Mere Germaine in Villefranche; otherwise, go for La Chevre d'Or in Eze, also two stars, where the view competes with the dishes.

[Gary Marshall]

.

If You want something less formal but still accurate in the area, try La Mere Germaine in Villefranche;

i had call from my friend last night who has eaten here for the last three days, thinks it is brilliant and is very grateful for the rec, apparently on sunday they shared the place with ex-james bond roger moore too!

he was at la reserve last night but thought it would have a lot to live up to.....

gary

[fresh_a]

I visited a couple weeks ago, but didn't dine there- but, yes, it will be expensive, but in the area, it's the best there is, as far as I know.

[patrick]

I shall be cooking at a private villa in St Jean Cap Ferrat for the next two months. Although i have made a couple of brief visits to the area before, i am seeking recommendations on places to shop for quality local produce. I will have the use of a car, but i would prefer to only travel short distances as my time will be limited.

Also, apart from La Reserve, Louis XV and Moulin de Mougins can anybody suggest some local quality places to dine?

Many thanks

[John Whiting]

Cap Ferrat's best experience on a fine day is the path around its circumference. Rough, unmarked, unpretentious. The friendly man in jeans you meet walking his dog could probably buy you several times over out of petty cash and not notice it.

[Jonathan Day]

Patrick, Le Moulin de Mougins is something of an unknown (on this site at least) since it changed hands late last year. It was in decline under Roger Vergé, but is now run by Alain Llorca. I am told that the Guide Gantié, which specialises in that area, has given it a high rating, 3 out of 4 olive branches (Louis XV got 4). You can be the first eGulleter to visit the new Moulin and report!

[patrick]

John, yes, i have walked some of that path around Cap Ferrat. It is indeed rough and unmarked but with great scenery, especially near the lighthouse! And i agree about that friendly man with his dog!!...could be my boss

Jonathan, thank you for that info. I shall try and get to Le Moulin de Mougins during my stay.

[cigalechanta]

Years ago, my first time in Paris, I dined at a charming little place called "Les Saimailles." I'll never forget the refreshing taste of my dessert, six egg-shaped sorbets in dazzling colrs and flavors.> The chef was Jean-Jaques Jouteaux. In 1979, in Gourmet, he is quoted, "We owe Bocuse alot. Before him, a chef was a laborer. Now he is a respected man." Juteaux'x restaurant later burned down. I hear wonderful things about his place, "La Provençal"" in Cap Ferrat. Has anyone dined there?

[robert brown]

Patrick, first I would forget La Reserve. The chef has moved to Robuchon's new place in the Hotel Hermitage in Monaco. July 27 is opening day. We have been in Nice for two weeks now and find the produce uneven so far. The place to go is Ventimiglia to the covered market for the best fish and produce. It may take you longer to get there than you wish. Have you polked around the Liberation market at the end of Avenue Jean-Medcin in Nice? I'm trying to find the time to write up some visits. I am finding lots of pleasant surprises so far, but really none east of Nice, although if you want good tajin and cous-cous, the folks at Darkhoum in Menton moved their operation to Beaulieu almost opposite La Reserve. It's now Le Petit Darkhoum. We went last night and had good tajins. PM me.

[menton1]

Robert, (great to see you posting again!) have you ever tried Les Agaves in Beaulieu by the little RR Station? Gantié gives it a nice review, especially the scallops, fish and the terrine. We never got there last year, but the restaurants in the port of Beaulieu were a bit disappointing; the setting is lovely, though, and if you are not seeking perfection the African Queen is fun. The best casual bistro is Le Catalan, terrific salads and pizza when you're not in the mood for a serious meal.

Love your posts, Robert, hope to see them back here more often....

[Busboy]

I am deeply and vindictively jealous. I can drive, I can serve, I can prep, I can wash dishes - either get me on staff, or keep looking over your shoulder, buddy boy.

I have been to Les Agaves and very much hope to have a chance to return. I can't remember the details of my meals there, only that when circumstances "forced" to eat there for a second night in a row, on a 3-day trip, I was delighted -- and they seemed delighted to have me back.

This thread may be a little stale by now, but it might get you started. With any luck, you'll be able to update over the summer, and I'll be able to consult it again in the fall.

[BigboyDan]

La Reserve is still exellent - ate there two weeks-ago.

[patrick]

A brief report on location...

arrived last Thursday and have subsequently been very busy (18hour days)!

my shopping time has been limited and restricted to early morning trips. The market in Bealieu has produced excellent veg, fruit and fish ( highlights include St.Pierre, tiny Rouget and Langouste. After developing a rapport with the stall holders the better produce has been forthcoming. i hope to get off to Nice early next week.

No time for eating out as yet, but La Reserve menu still looks good!

our garden produces very sweet kumquats, lemons and bananas, so expect some online photos soon.

Anyway, i'm off to Entrecote for the weekends veau, poulet de bresse, foie gras and Charolaise beef...is it me, or does everything taste better in France?

[patrick]

A quick trip back to the UK, so a quick update...

I have eaten at a variety of places so far, including:

African Queen (Beaulieu Port)

La Mere Germaine (Villefranche)

La Chevre d'Or (Eze Village)

Cafe de Paris (Monte Carlo)

La Voile d'Or (St Jean Cap Ferrat)

Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat

Top of my list by a long way is the Chevre d'Or. The setting is breathtaking, the views unsurpassed and the food some of the best i have eaten! http://www.chevredor.com

We arrived at 8pm and enjoyed a coupe of 1996 Tattinger Rose with selection of canapes including 3 croutes with langouste, avoacdo and langoustine, and beetroot with white radish toppings...all very delicate, very fresh and a perfect match for the champagne.

We both chose the Menu Degustation and it comprised the following:

Salad of local "forgotten" tomatoes with buffalo mozzarella, basil and olive oil

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Pave of foie gras with crisp nougatine, chilled melon, blossoms and a shot glass of Muscat wine, diced melon and chilled melon meringue. Grissini

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Blue lobster in a bouillion with Thai basil, croutes with green lemon butter

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Line caught sole paupiette with shitake mushrooms, crevette ravioli, rao rum and croutes with lobster coral butter

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Saddle, cutlet and sweetbread of lamb perfumed with orange. Served with fennel and saffron puree, etuvee of fennel and onion, jus roti

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Cheese including Banon, Reblochon, St Nectaire, various Crottin and others that escape my memory

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Shot glass of vanilla ice cream with chilled red fruit "marmalade" and financier

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Napoleon of wild strawberries and basil, with basil and lemon sorbet, basil and lemon mousse

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Petit fours including aniseed Madeleine, strawberry crisp, rhubarbe and vanilla puree, strawberry shot, chocolates

We drank a Clix Sancerre 1996, glasses of St. Emillion 2000, more Tattinger 1996, glasses of a sauternes 1998 which the name evades me.

The bill came to a shade under 500euros.

Other than to say it was a truly superb meal, with food almost technically perfect and excellent service conducted with good humour, i think its best to enjoy this place as a suprise!

Of the other restaurants, The African Queen was busy as usual and the food was good despite people saying otherwise. It knows its market and delivered each time we went there. La Mere Germaine has been in Villefranche harbour since 1938 and with terrace dining offers a perfect spot to enjoy good food and people watch! Highlights of that meal include a warm lobster salad with herbs, and turbot with potato scales. Dissapointment was the desserts, of which a strawberry and pistachio sabayon contained about 3 strawberries, and crepes "drowned" in Rum.

La Voile d'Or may have seen its day and seems stuck in a distant decade, but the food was still pretty good. Of note, our party enjoyed a black and white truffle salad with Granny Smith apple, and langoustine with crispy parmesan and herbs. Service was disjointed and slow.

The Grand Hotel has undergone some major renovation and extension recently, and is still heaving with a great mix of people. The car park is still full of Lambo's, Ferrari's, Rolls Royces etc. Inside, or rather outside, we dined on the terrace and were restricted to a set menu. No highlights unfortunately, extremely slow service!

Moving away from eating out, i found the quality of fruit and vegetables dip off during the first 2 weeks of August. As i left at the weekend the quality seemed to be returning. The fish however remains excellent, although how much is local at this time of year is questionable. The prices shocked me at first, generally being double that of London prices...lobsters and Langouste at around 100euros /kg.

L'Entecote and Equateur in Beaulieu-sur-mer have been excellent for fine foods, meat and poultry. La Nature offers a good range of organic produce, also in Beaulieu.

If anybody is visiting the area, i reccommend Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in Cap Ferrat, the Zoo in Cap Ferrat, Eze Village as places to stop off at.

As reported in the Uk press, is does seem relatively quiet around the Nice to Monaco area, but only in the more touristy areas and beaches. The restaurants at the top end have mostly been full from what i have seen.

Anyway, back to the sunshine for another 10 days!

[Carlsbad]

Thanks for the interesting post. If you get a chance to try them, I would be interested in your impressions of L'Ane Rouge and L'Univers in Nice.

[DonRocks]

Thanks for the interesting post. If you get a chance to try them, I would be interested in your impressions of L'Ane Rouge and L'Univers in Nice.

I had dinner at L'Univers in 2003, and left thinking that it just barely merited its one-star rating from Michelin. The atmosphere is nice without being overly formal, but what came out on the plates was somewhat gutteral. I don't remember that much detail, but one meat plate in particular showed the worst side of garlic, both in terms of quantity and cooking quality. Again, this is only one meal, and it wasn't bad, but still really pushing it in terms of having a Michelin star. The surrounding areas of Nice have a lot of good restaurants (though only a few truly extraordinary ones), but Nice itself seems to be underrepresented in this arena.

Cheers,

Rocks.