The French Laundry 2006 -

[molto e]

"Oysters and Pearls"

Great dish- Caviar, good sabayon with tapioca and oysters

While Doc had the Seared Foie which was a lovely plated dish, I had the

Hand-Rolled Yukon Gold Potato "Agnolotti",

Young Fava Beans and Flowers, New Crop Potato "Chips" and Perigord Truffles

The craftsmanship on the agnolotti was fantastic. If you have ever tried to roll out this type of pasta then you will know how well they were done. The pasta were little pillows of potato and mascarpone with the little potato crisps and the favas in the sauce. This dish came together so well.

[lizard]

Our wine pairing was champagene, Pierre Gimonet, "Brut", 1er Cru Luis XV The pairings were uniformly excellent. While I will list the wines, I will only comment further if there was something particular to comment on with the wines.

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Great stuff, Doc! I'm curious about your wine pairings - when we were there, they flat -out (and quite rudely) refused to offer us pairings. Did you concoct your own tasting from their limited glass sections, or did you order full bottles?

I await the next 14 or so courses...

[docsconz]

For the next course we were back on track.

Grilled Filet of Gulf Coast Pompano, Caramelized Fennel Bulb, Confit de Pamplemousses" and Fennel-Grapefruit "Vinaigrette" was outstanding. The flavors and balance of this were incredible. I truly loved this dish. It was one of the standouts of this trip. The wine was Colin-Deleger "Les Vergets" 1er Cru 2000 Chassagne Montrachet.

"Choufleur Polonaise" Maine Lobster Tail Cuit Sous Vide , "Gratin" of Cauliflower "Fleurettes", Hen Egg "Mimosa" with Young Parsley Shoots was my single favorite dish of the trip and one of the best ever for me. This combination just sang my song.

This picture says it all for me. I could have licked the bowl even cleaner. The pairing was with Brundlmayer, Reisling "Zobinger Heilgenstein-Alte Reben", Kamptal, Austria 2004.

We diverged again on the next course. I had

Wolfe Ranch Roasted Rabbit Shoulder"Cassoulet" of Spring Pole Beans, "Saucisson A L'Ail" and Burgundy Moutard "Jus" The rabbit was delicious as was the "Cassoulet". Having been to Rancho Gordo earlier in the day and knowing they use his beans at TFL, I was hoping this dish was going to have some. It didn't nor did any others that evening, but the fresh pole beans were a satisfactory substitute

Molto will present his course.

[docsconz]

Our wine pairing was champagene, Pierre Gimonet, "Brut", 1er Cru Luis XV The pairings were uniformly excellent. While I will list the wines, I will only comment further if there was something particular to comment on with the wines.

←

Great stuff, Doc! I'm curious about your wine pairings - when we were there, they flat -out (and quite rudely) refused to offer us pairings. Did you concoct your own tasting from their limited glass sections, or did you order full bottles?

I await the next 14 or so courses...

←

We had half bottles with the occasional glass with select courses (e.g. foie gras) for which a half bottle wasn't reasonable expecially as we had somewhat divergent progressions.

[molto e]

This was also my favorite dish of the night. The cauliflower gratin with the crunch from Brioche bread crumbs throughout the dish was delicious. Safe to say the most pleasing cauliflower dish that I have eaten.

This course in my tasting was the Moulard Duck "Foie Gras Au Torchon",

Field Rhubarb "Relish", Sicilian Pistachio "Mimettes", Rhubarb "Jus" and Toasted "Brioche".

A thick cut of perfectly toasted warm brioche accompanied the Torchon with 3 types of salt.

The Torchon was perfectly done and served at the right temperature. Keller knows Foie Gras, the combination of the Sicilian pistachios with the Rhubard was delicious.

[docsconz]

We are back on track for the rest of the meal.

Herb-Roasted Sirloin of Dry-Aged Prime Beef California Grey Morel Mushrooms, Green Asparagus, "Pain Perdu au Moelle" and "Sauce Bordelaise" paired with Vieux-Telegraphe, Chateauneuf du Pape 1998, a glorious wine that I have enjoyed before and was happy to again. This beef was great. Although the evenness of color screams sous vide, I was most definitelytold it wasn't. I knew the menu said roasted, but I was thinking quick high-temp roast at the end to get a little maillard. They said no sous vide at all for this dish. Incredible!

[molto e]

In the beef course, the bone marrow pain perdue was great.

After the beef course, we decided to add the lamb course in so the kitchen obliged.

Medallion of Elysian Fields Farm Lamb "Et Son Plate De Cote Glacee"

with Eggplant "Caviar", Piquillo Pepper "Socca" and Nicoise Olives

The lamb was "spot on" cooked and the Elysian Fields lamb was delicious.

[docsconz]

The lamb, piquillo peppers and eggplant were also outstanding. To this point the meal was truly incredible, hitting on every cylinder. If the meal had stopped here, this would have been pretty darn close to perfect. The remainder of the meal, while still generally very good was a notch below what came before for me.

The turndown started in a very big way for me. This next course just didn't work for me. The components were fine on their own, but together clashed.

"Comte Saint Antoine" Applewood-Smoked Bacon-wrapped Yukon Gold Potato "Bouchon" and Sour Michigan Cherry Puree The combination of textures was one I did not find pleasurable, although each was fine on its own. I can say the same for the flavor. This is the one dish of the night that I just could not understand. It was paired with Vall Lach, "Embruix", Priorat, Spain 2003, a delicious wine.

The dessert course that followed were all very good but with the exception of the first one that Molto will describe a litle bit on the sweet side for my taste. Nevertheless, the execution was superb. That first dessert course was excellent, though.

[ludja]

The cauliflower and lobster dish sounds divine. I've had two very nice rieslings from Brundlmayer. I can imagine that it paired very well with the dish.

Gorgeous photos, guys.

[molto e]

The next course of White "Verjus Granite" with Nicoise Olive "Nougatine",

did not sound that appealing to me when I read it on the menu. This was a huge surprise, the olive was candied and played off the granite perfectly.

"Coffee and Doughnuts"

Cappuccino Semifreddo with Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnuts

A French Laundry Classic

We then checked out the kitchen. We walked in as a Chef on the left of the room was getting ready to sear a lobe of foie gras.

Directly in front of the Chef that is at the head of the pass is a closed circuit television with the kitchen of Per Se. There is a remote control that can pan left or right and has volume.

No escaping the watchful eye of TK

[docsconz]

I love restaurant kitchens especially when they hum like the French Laundry's was humming. This was particularly notable and to the credit of everyone associated with making the kitchen work as neither Thomas Keller (in Las Vegas) nor Corey Lee (night off) were there. Devin Knell and Michael Swenton did an exemplary job if our plates and visit to the kitchen were any indication.

Devin Knell plating the fabulous lobster course and others.

Egg plates ready for service. We did not have these, although I recall having had something similar at Per Se.

Pastry station

A spotless pantry.

Cold prep room

Simmering stock

With Chefs Michael and Devin.

We were led back to our table to resume dining.

"Feuilletine au Caramel" Butterscotch "boite", Caramel "Mousse" and Milk Chocolate-Praline "Feuilletine" with Olivares, Dulce Monastrell, Jumilla, Spain 2001. Delicious, but once again on the sweet side for my taste, which is decidedly more dark chocolate.

[robert40]

You guys have no idea how happy I am that this dinner became reality for you.

The report and photos are wonderful but most of all I'm glad you were able to experience this amazing restaurant.

[docsconz]

The desserts kept coming.

The Vanilla Bean Creme Brulee (not listed on the menu) was excellent.

As were these chocolate covered macadamia nuts...

and these thin, sweet crisps...

and the selection of bon-bons

I had a fabulous meal. The highs were indeed very high with one inexplicable (to me) low. The service was so good that it just flowed and wasn't really noticeable the way great service should be. Molto will add addional thoughts and perhaps a few more photos to finish up this report.

[docsconz]

You guys have no idea how happy I am that this dinner became reality for you.

The report and photos are wonderful but most of all I'm glad you were able to experience this amazing restaurant.

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Robert, Thank you, but I think I can safely say no happier than we were It was amazing.

[Ling]

I had dinner at The French Laundry as the climax to our whirlwind eating tour of San Francisco. I'm glad that most of our courses were different from the ones molto and doc enjoyed, so you all will get to see even more of what the kitchen can do.

I would say that there were quite a few excellent dishes in my tasting menu, with the standouts being the foie gras, the king trumpet mushroom that came with the Elysian Fields lamb (lamb was a bit too cooked for my liking, though it was perfect for the two other diners who had the same dish,) the egg custard with black truffle ragout, and the lobster cooked sous vide with beets and braised leeks. There were also some dishes that I found were just OK--my least favourite dish of the evening was the other lobster sous vide dish with dried mullet roe, braised romaine, and Parmigiano crisp (their take on the Caesar salad)--and some dishes that were "just" good, like the coddled egg dish, and the seared tuna and bok choy.

I have never seen such perfect service from start to finish. My dining partner and I requested that we have separate courses during the meal so we could taste as many dishes as possible (we each ate half our dish, then switched plates) and not only was the staff and kitchen incredibly accomodating, but seemed pleased that everyone at our table appeared to be really into food. We also got a peek at the kitchen at the end.

We split 3 half bottles of wine, and had a glass of something that was like a Sauternes with the foie gras course. (I have the names of the wines in my folder, and I'll post them later.)

It was a wonderful evening. Pictures and detailed comments to come.

Edited April 11, 2006 by Ling (log)

[ulterior epicure]

doc, molto e.

EXCELLENT report! Thanks for that thorough and picture-filled post! Just a few questions:

1. So, I got a little lost - how many courses did you each end up having? It seems like you augmented the menu to more than 9 courses (I'm assuming it's the same format as at Per Se).

2. Do you mind if I ask how much the food cost? Sans drinks. You can p.m. me if you'd rather. Was foie gras supplemental? If so, how much?

3. A lot of your menu items were very similar to ones I had recently at Per Se:

(a) Your Pompano with pampelmousse confit has all the same elements that my Red Sea Bream with essentially a pampelmousse salsa.

(b) Your Verjus granite with Nicoise crumbles is a combination of two of our pre-desserts: Passionfruit Sorbet with Nicoise crumbles and Verjus Vitre Glacee.

u.e.

Edited April 11, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[molto e]

U.E., the foie is a $30 supplement on the menu.

Our meals:

Gougeres

Cornets

Oysters and Pearls

Doc- Seared Foie Me- Agnolotti

Pompano

Choufleur Polonaise

Doc- Rabbit Me- Torchon

Sirloin

Lamb

Comte

Granite

Coffee and Doughnuts

Feuilletine

Creme Brulee Panna Cotta

Mignardises - chocolate covered nuts, thin crispy cookies, various chocolates

Edited April 11, 2006 by molto e (log)

[ulterior epicure]

Thanks very much Eliot.

Other than the foie, did you supplement anything else? It seems like a longer menu than the 9-course offered at Per Se.

u.e.

[docsconz]

The lamb and C&D was picked up for us by a generous friend so I don't know what the additional cost was for those items. The wines were certainly not inexpensive, but the 1/2 bottle list was not insurmountable.

[ulterior epicure]

The lamb and C&D was picked up for us by a generous friend so I don't know what the additional cost was for those items. The wines were certainly not inexpensive, but the 1/2 bottle list was not insurmountable.

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Thanks doc.

I'm assuming "C&D" refers to the Coffee & Donuts?

Also, the creme brulee panna cotta you had was like a hybrid of two separate post-dessert courses my party enjoyed at Per Se. Interestingly, the ladies were served Vanilla bean creme brulee while the gentlemen were served Yogurt panna cotta.

u.e.

[molto e]

Shot from the walk-in

When Doc get the Creme Brulee, I received Cinnamon Panna Cotta

The craftsmanship of the mignardises was perfect. Doc actually sampled more from the tray of Valrhona chocolates with various fillings than I did (to my surprise ).

The meal ended with a little gift to go.

The French Laundry is a must for anyone that considers themself a "Foodie". This was as fine of a dining experience that I have had. Thomas Keller operates at a higher level than I have seen with all of his ventures running smooth whether he is in the house or not. TFL benefits by having Laura Cunningham gliding thru the dining room making sure everything is just right. The service was excellent and accomodated every request. The wine pairing suggestions were great. I look forward to my next opportunity to dine there and I hope that it is soon.

[ulterior epicure]

Excellent, excellent, excellent! doc, Eliot, you've got me all giddy for my upcoming visit! Hopefully they'll have changed the menu enough by that time that I get to sample some other things!

Cinnamon panna cotta sounds just as good as my Yogurt panna cotta (with apple jam). YUM!

u.e.

Edited April 11, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[Pontormo]

Wow! First Mexico, now this...thanks for report, Doc & Molto.

FYI: Visual evidence no longer survives, but I wonder if your Documentary Photographer of Shoes might be The Seattle Bon Vivante whose masthead used to be a view down to her embroidered pink pointy-toed shoes. (See comments concerning this visual detail on the linked entry.)

Ling & Henry, I look forward to your further contributions.

[docsconz]

Wow! First Mexico, now this...thanks for report, Doc & Molto.

FYI:  Visual evidence no longer survives, but I wonder if your Documentary Photographer of Shoes might be The Seattle Bon Vivante whose masthead used to be a view down to her embroidered pink pointy-toed shoes.  (See comments concerning this visual detail on the linked entry.) 

Ling & Henry, I look forward to your further contributions.

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Interesting thought, but I don't think it is her. She said she was from the Toronto area nor was she taking a lot of photos (if any) inside the restaurant. It was a very blog-like thing to do though, which is why it initially caught our attention and curiosity.

[iheartoffal]

Wow. Quite a report, guys. I'm going back to Per Se toward the end of next month, and reading this has definitely whet my appetite.