Spago, Beverly Hills

[lizziee]

LA does have a couple of good restaurants and one of them is Spago, Beverly Hills. In many respects it really is two restaurants--one catering to the typical LA LA Land diners watching their waist lines and gawking at the celebs and the other catering to serious diners offering a tasting menu of focused, tightly created dishes. The service is unbelievable - last night 5 people made sure there were no hitches - the waiter, the sommelier, the assistant sommelier, busser and a captain (assigned to only 3 tables) who brought out and described each dish.

Our menu was as follows:

 Tuna tartar in a crunchy sesame seed tuile cone

 White asparagus 2 ways - one a salad with a meyer lemon  vinagrette and the other a warm gratin..

 Uni soup with Louisiana crayfish and caviar

 Skate wing with Chinese 5 spices and portabello mushrooms

 Turbot atop an eggplant nicoise

 Sauteed Foie gras with a cherry reduction

 Agnolotti with sweet peas

 Roast suckling pig with morels and fava beans

 Leg of lamb with mint, cilantro sauce and potato chutney

 Cheese

We skipped dessert.

My husband brought the wines which were:

1985 Bollinger RD '97

1999 Chablis Le Clos, Dauvissat

1988 Chambolle Musigny Faiveley

1988 Gevrey Chambertin Faiveley

All the wines were spectacular... the best being the Chablis Le Clos and the Gevrey Chambertin--

If you treat Spago as a fine restaurant, it really does deliver.

[Beachfan]

There is life in the California board!  Woo hoo!!

Great post on Spago Beverly Hills  !One of the best things is that no matter what your food preference is, from meat and potato, to fish fan, to vegetarian, you'll walk away extremely pleased.

It has the best aspects of a formal place (top service) but a casual feel to it that promotes dining comfort.

[robert brown]

Lizziee, why did you skip dessert?

[Liza]

Wolfgang Puck deserves more credit than he gets for his defining role in the revolution of American cuisine. I've had the pleasure of working with him and can happily report that he's a gem - we were in Spago for a very quick shoot with a crew of five. After the shoot, Wolf tells us to stay for lunch, and feeds all of us a four course meal. If I remember correctly, we started with a signature pizza; slow-roasted salmon in herb inflected beurre blanc; white corn agnolotti in a goat cheese sauce (might have been another cheese) topped with shavings of white truffles which exploded with flavor as tooth bit pasta; sorbet and cookies.

A really lovely man, with a serious passion for food, and it shows at Spago.

[Beachfan]

Lizziee, why did you skip dessert?

For me, the cheese could have been desert.

I like cheese.

[hollywood]

So, lizzie, what other spots in LA do you feel qualify as good?

[southern girl]

My first visit to the new Spago Beverly Hills was incredible. Thanks to some guidance from Lizzie on where to ask to be seated and who to have as my waiter I was way ahead of the game...she made sure they took excellent care of me too .

I was seated outside on the patio in a cozy corner with a great view of the room and the entry and bar area. The patio is beautiful and the end I was seated at has a 100 year old olive tree, tropical plants and a waterwall fountain. Very relaxing.

This was a special night for Spago...as Wolfgang Puck and his wife Barbara Lazaroff were treating all the chefs and their teams who were participating in the American Wine and Food Festival to dinner at Spago...can you say "pressure" for the Kitchen .

Moments after I was seated my waiter, Oscar appeared...he had been given the heads up by Lizziee to take good care of me. No menu was presented...I was invited to do the tasting menu that was being given to the chefs...most of whom were seated where I was able to see their reactions to the food...(also providing a bit to the scenery...Eric Ripert, Todd English, RObert del Grande...and for you guys...Nancy Silverton and a host of others). Bonnie, one of the sommeliers stopped by with a glass of Piper-Heidsech Brut Champagne NV...and the evening was off with a bang!

Course One: Trois Foie Gras-Foie on Toasted Brioche with Apple Horseradish; Foie Mousse Tartlet with Grappa Soaked Raisins; Foie Spring Roll with Chinese 10 Spice Sauce

Wine: Piper-Heidsech

Course Two: Gratin of Hama Hama Oyster (normally served with caviar...alllergic...so topped with chopped chives...bathed in a horseradish tinged cream

Wine:More Piper

Course Three: Tempura Squash Blossom stuffed with Santa Barabara Uni with pickled daikon dipping sauce.

Wine: O'Connor Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Maria) 2000

Course Four: Tomato Sorbet on a roasted Roma Tomato with Tomato Water, Watercress Oil and Soicy Sprouts

Wine: More O'Connor

Course Five: Crayfish and Lobster Spring Roll with Pureed Pickled Onion Dipping Sauce

Wine: Weissburgunder, Rudi Pichler 1997 (Austria)

Course Six: Toro Tataki wrapped in Toro Sashimi, Soya and Pea Sprouts

Wine: Riesling Sclossberg Grand Cru Albert Mann 2000 (Alsace)

Course Seven: Roasted Skate Stuffed with Blue Crab atop Mitsumaki Mushrooms and Topped with Decorative Gold Leaf

Wine:Loiner Gruner Veltliner 1999 (Austria)

Course Eight: Langoustine with Smoked Bacon and Thai Basil Leaves

Beer: Negro Modelo Beer

Course Nine: Ravioli of Veal Ragout with Trufffle and Truffle Oil

Wine:Brunello di Montalcino, Ciaci 1996 (Tuscany)

My notetaking goes significantly down hill from here as Barbara adopted me (announcing to the dining room she hated to see a woman dine alone)...which was actually cool rather than embarassing...because at that point a few mutual chef friends stopped by to say hi and of course to thank her for the wonderful treatment everyone was receiving.

Course Ten: Squab with Seared Foie Gras and Potato Puree

Wine: Joel Gott Zinfandel 2000 (Napa)

Course Eleven: Seared Kobe Beef

Wine: More Joel Gott and Bonnacorsi Pinot Noir 2001 (Santa Barbara)

Course Twelve:Dessert taste One: (served on a spoon to be consumed in one bite)...vanilla wafer with Berry Granita and fresh Berries

Wine: Vouvray, Clos de Bourg, Huet Demi Sec 1995 (Loire)

Dessert Taste Two: "The Explosion" Sherry Yard (pastry diva) delivered this one and warned us it might "explode" in our mouths...It did...A chocolate wafer topped with chocolate mousse topped with....the "explosion"...a chocolate truffle that was molten in the center!

Wine: Brichetto d'Aqui NV (Bologna)

Every course was outstanding...favorites: Squab, Squash Blossoms, Oyster, Kobe Beef...the Explosion...hard to leave anything out!

I can't wait to go back...the best meal I've had in LA in very long time. Also warm and excellent service....you can't even think of anything you might need before it appears before you...dishes whisked away unnoticed, silverware replaced the same way...and always full glasses of wine and water>

[malarkey]

wow, southern girl, that's one hell of a review. Sounds over the top excellent. I'm jealous!!

[awbrig]

wow! sounds awesome...so what was the cost for this extravaganza?

and btw you're allergic to caviar? that it very unfortunate...what happens if you eat it?

[southern girl]

Awbrig...food $100...wine $50...a true bargain considering the size of the portions and the variety of both food and wine (no skimpy pours here!)...the service was positively wonderful...I tipped accordingly!

Can you say "projectile"? re the caviar!

[awbrig]

thats a great deal!

are u truly allergic to caviar or do u just not like it...I say Im allergic to mushrooms evern tho Im not i just dont like them

[southern girl]

Actually I love caviar...when owned a restaurant many, many moons ago (1987-1990)...I ate copious amounts...I really miss the taste it adds to dishes like the Hama Hama oyster dish...chives are nice...but caviar would have made that dish "killer"...went to the allergist and he laughed when I asked if there was a test for caviar...he said "just don't eat it...it's not like you need to have it "....

[awbrig]

he said "just don't eat it...it's not like you need to have it

I Need to have it.

[southern girl]

[ngatti]

Gawd!!!

Nick

[R.G. Diamond]

We live in the neighborhood and find Spago to be the only consistently A-plus dining experience around. Yeah, it's a cliche to enthuse about it, but what'reya gonna do? It manages to completely pamper you without a wisp of formality. It doesn't hurt that if there's a fresh ingredient to be had in L.A., Wolgang gets it first. Our only problem with the restaurant, which correctly doesn't stint on butter or cream, is that my husband can't go often, or he'll get fat!

Once I asked my six-year-old (foodie) what the happiest day of his life was. And he said, "When you took me to Spago."

R.G.

[Rhea_S]

Thanks for another great review SouthernGirl.

[mixmaster b]

So, prompted by the good advice of several E-gulleteers, I took my sweetie to Spago for our anniversary. We went on a Sunday night and had the tasting menu with wine pairings.

Overall, we were both impressed, and I am very glad to have gone. However, there were some less-than-perfect moments with both the service and food.

First of all, the hostess was awful. We were on time for our reservation but had to wait about 25 minutes to be seated. (This did not bug me so much, but I would have preferred some sort of an apologetic tone when we were asked to wait, instead of an attitude.) As we were waiting, another couple came in who also had an 8:00 reservation--they came in at about 8:15. The hostess said "Better late than never" after she greeted them. This seemed incredibly rude-- their table was not ready, either. It was all I could do not to use the same phrase when she finally came to seat us!!

We were led to a table in the main dining room. There was a young woman sitting alone at the table next to us, and she had no drink, menu, or water. She waited patiently as we were served water, our menus brought, and our order taken. We had been served our amuse by the time her waitress materialized—Spago did not live up to the level Southern Girl experienced on the “women dining alone” front! (She ordered the tasting menu, as well, and they rushed her through the first few courses so that we were all on the same schedule. We struck up a conversation with her, and she was quite sweet.)

The timing on the menu was also off. Our second amuse came while I was still eating the first. Also, we waited about 10 minutes for the wine pairing on the third course. Yech! Later in the menu, there were some long pauses between the courses.

Last complaint: there were 11 courses instead of 8, as listed on the menu. This was lovely, of course, but we were not told at the start. I didn’t pace myself properly, so I really was overly full by the end of the meal. Some of the courses were too big, in my opinion, to be served as part of an 11-course meal.

Okay, enough bitching!!! Here is the menu—please excuse the lack of detail, especially on the wines. (I was a bit disappointed that they did not offer more info on the wine. I asked a few questions, and they showed me the labels, but I didn’t feel I learned as much as I could have.) My notes were written later, while in a food and wine stupor. Next time Iwill bring a notebook so the wine info is not lost. (Live and learn!)

Amuse 1: Tuna tartare in a tuille cone

Amuse 2: Raisin tartlet w/ foie gras mouse

Wine: Billecart-Salmon

Course 3: Oyster au gratin topped with Osetra caviar

Wine: Pouille-Fuisse

Course 4: Crabcake w/ basil aioli

Wine: Testarossa Chardonnay

All of these dishes and wines were fabulous--especially the crabcake--best ever!

Course 5: Tomato medley:

1: Tomato w/ goat cheese, tiny micro-greens

2: Roasted tomato soup w/ some type of foam, served with a buttery caviar "breadstick"

3: Tomato “tatin” with goat cheese, atop puff pastry

4: Tomato “carpaccio” with capers

Basil crème fraiche

Wine: ???

I adore tomatoes and enjoyed this dish, especially the soup and “breadstick”, which were outstanding. However, I question the use of similar-tasting goat cheese in 2 of the items, as well as the use of red heirloom tomatoes in all 4 items.

Course 6: White truffle risotto

Wine: ??? (Too overwhelmed by white truffles to take proper notice)

The smell of the truffles was underscored by the presentation: a flat bowl with a cloche covering the risotto. The cloche was lifted about 6 inches off the bowl and swung back and forth when the dish was served, to highlight the wonderful truffle aroma.

I found the risotto to be rather undercooked. Maybe a style?

Course 7: Black bass with parsnip puree, beurre blanc, pancetta, and chanterelles

Wine: Verdicchio (do not remember winery)

This was divine, though the course was large. I thought dessert was next, and that it was strange to have had neither red meat nor red wine in the menu!!

Course 8: Crispy pork belly with pines nuts, spinach, and polenta

Wine: Barbaresco

The course was too large, IMO. 2 slices (3x4x3/4) were served—almost a full serving. I had not had pork belly (other than bacon) before, and would have preferred a small portion of this fatty meat. I did like it, especially the crispy parts. And the polenta was the best I have ever had.

Course 8: Lamb chop with potato gnocchi, rosemary

Wine: South African Pinotage—fabulous

Very nice

Course 9: Cheese plate. I had cabrales, a runny camembert-type stinker, and some garlic flavored cheese

Wine: Veuve cliquot demi sec

I found this wine all wrong with the cheese I chose. It seemed to bring out the sharper, more chemical flavors. The wine on its own, and with the other desserts, was lovely. They offered a nut-laden whole wheat with this; we requested a more neutral white to better taste the cheeses.

Course 10: First dessert; Blackberry Sorbet

Okay, somewhat odd after-taste. (Freezer flavor?)

Course 11: 16-layer cake with chocolate ganache, pralines, and praline ice-cream

Heaven!

The tasting menu was $150 with paired wines (Seems to be the going rate in LA.) Espressos were extra, and a 20% tip is added automatically. (!!)

So, it seems that they were on their best behavior when Southern Girl was there, what with all the luminaries in the house. However, this was one of the more impressive meals I have had the pleasure of consuming. All in all, a success!

[southern girl]

Odd...no 20% tip was added to my bill....was it just the two of you or a large group? Sorry to hear things weren't up to your expectations .

[mixmaster b]

Southern Girl-

There were only two of us. (Maybe we were a big pain in the ass!)

We really did have a good time. LA is a strange restaurant town, lacking in really fine places, as has been discussed on the LA Restaurant Scene thread. I was raised in the SF Bay Area, and lived in NYC for a long time, and my fiance is a native Manhattanite. So we were definitely somewhat critical of Spago as were comparing it to some really good places. (Not that we have had the fortune to visit so many top spots.)

We have had very diasappointing meals at some restaurants in LA that were supposed to be good (Valentino, Citrus, La Cachette, etc), and I am glad to say that Spago did not disappoint. The food was innovative and well presented, and gave us much insight into Puck and his empire.

The one thing that would have made a difference was the service. They seem to differentiate between people they wish to impress, and the rest of the hoardes, and we were in the latter group. Ah well...

I don't want to sound too negative--I would definitely go again. It was for sure some of the best, if not the best, food I have had here.

[hollywood]

LA is a strange restaurant town, lacking in really fine places, as has been discussed on the LA Restaurant Scene thread.  I was raised in the SF Bay Area, and lived in NYC for a long time, and my fiance is a native Manhattanite.  So we were definitely somewhat critical of Spago as were comparing it to some really good places.

Strange is a relative term. You're right, we are not up to SF or Manhattan. But it's cheaper here. The economics just don't exist to support the sort of fine dining of which you speak. And when things start getting good, the staff leaves, runs off to start their own places, etc. But, having all that in mind, we try. To appreciate the best food experiences that the greater LA area has to offer, you have to explore the different varieties of ethnic food, particularly Asian, not available elsewhere. An example would be Renu Nakorn in Norwalk for Thai or some of the Chinese spots in the San Gabriel Valley. However, if you are looking for a total dining experience--top food, top decor, top service--you will be disappointed as often as not. I'd be curious to hear your take on L'Orangerie on a good night.

[mixmaster b]

Hollywood-

I agree with your take on LA restaurants 100%. Seeing that I can seldom afford to do the fine dining routine, I am better off in a city with lots of good ethnic food and more reasonably priced spots. It's just that I like to indulge once in a while...

While part of me thinks I should just save my $ and eat at the fancy places while travelling, I do want to give the better LA spots a fair go, and also to support local places.

We need to get a serious thread started about the great ethnic and asian spots in LA. Definitely a more fertile topic!

[Beachfan]

I had a fabulous meal at Spago last night. Very good plus to Excellent.

First Course

Me: Chino Farms Celery Root Soup with wild black trumpet mushroom and crisp duck confit and poached egg. Super delicous, satisfying, mostly puree only a little cream. The textures and flavors of the duck and egg were very nice

Wife: Pumpkin and Butternut Squash soup (Sorry, less details here). Strong and delicious pumpkin and nutmeg flavors.

Share: White truffles from Alba over taglietelle. Not grated tableside, but otherwise very nice to excellent. Very simple preparation, truffle portion fair (but not generous). But the dish was fabulous.

Entree

Me: French turbot with chanterelles and parsnip puree. A perfect preparation of one of my favorite dishes. Not fancy, put the puree was a wonderful- comfort food with a fancy flavor. Excellent quality, generous portion.

Wife:

Garganelli Pasta with wild and domestic mushrooms (garlic, shallots, parsley and reggiano). Perfect mushrooms and wonderful al dente garganelli in a toothsome mushroom sauce. We had switched our original order to this one after seeing a neighboring diner get a portion chock full of mushrooms. Ours had no where near as much; the waiter brought a very generous extra helping.

Normally we wouldn't get pasta and pasta, but my wife is a light eater and basically just had the mushrooms from the entree (I was the beneficiary of this, as I loved the pasta).

Desert:

Braeburn Apple Tart Tatin, with apple cider granita, calvados ice cream and pomegranate seeds. The granita and pomegranite seeds took this dish to the next level.

Service: We had a short wait in the bar, during which they promptly gave me a copy of the wine list after I had requested it. The waiter had excellent timing, greeting us after we were seated, checking in after every dish (hence the mushroom remediation was almost immediate). The wine service was also well done (other than spilling a couple of drops on the first pour). The only flaw was a very long wait before the entree. However, we really didn't mind as we were enjoying the wine and the room, and as soon as we inquired seriously, it appeared.

The most reliable restaurant in So Cal. Where would LA be without Spago!

[lizziee]

I had a fabulous meal at Spago last night.  Very good plus to Excellent.

It seems Beachfan and I were both at Spago last night! (As we don't know each other, we were dining without acknowledging each other. What a shame!!!!!)

I am in complete agreement with Beachfan that it is the most reliable restaurant in Southern California.

We had the tasting menu.

We started with Spago's signature tuna tartar in sesame tuiles.

1st course - foie gras terrine on brioche and foie gras mousse with grappa soaked raisins in a tart shell

2nd course - Butternut squash soup cappuccino with white truffles, a sweet compote of raisins and cranberries in the bottom, drizzled with pumpkin seed oil.

3rd course - one of the best dishes of the night - lightly poached oyster served in the shell with a sauce of creme friache and chives, topped with uni and beluga caviar.

4th course - quickly seared albacore with pickled daikon and sprouts in a ponzu sauce (eaten with chopsticks)

5th course - a gratin of matzutaki (sp) mushrooms on one side of the long rectangular plate and on the other side a Maryland crab cake

6th course- turbot with parsnip puree, Brussel sprout leaves, Chanterelles topped with Mascarpone

7th course - Taglietelle with shaved white truffles (as Beachfan noted done in the kitchen)

8th course - Lacquered squab with a piece of seared foie gras, quince, and butternut squash puree

9th course - Venison, thinly sliced, with Fuji apple/quince puree served with Shepherd's pie

10th course - cheese

We skipped dessert and had expresso.

My husband brought the wines but as he is not home at the moment I don't have "his list."

All in all, a wonderful, satisfying meal.

One thing happened, however, that has never occurred in all my years of dining out. The people sitting next to us, who we did not know, didn't acknowledge or even speak to during our meal and who were having their first meal at Spago, motioned our server. They requested of our server that they get our check as they wanted to pay for our meal. We declined, of course. Has this ever happened to anyone? For the life of me, I couldn't figure out why the offer and why they would want to do this? Any ideas?

[southern girl]

Looks like another incredible dinner at Spago ! And of course, another great review.

While dining solo here in Las Vegas I have had tables of "gentlemen" offer to buy my meal....needless to say, the offers have been refused.

Perhaps you or your husband resemble someone "famous"?!?