WTN: 3 Drouhin White Burgundies

[geo t.]

1994 Joseph Drouhin Chablis - Vaudésir Grand Cru, 13% alc.: A pale to medium gold colored chardonnay, this gives plenty of butterscotch, pear, pineapple wet stone and mineral flavors and aromas at first, with a good dose of obvious oak. It's rich, with excellent acidity and concentration, and a long, lingering finish; it's just starting to develop a hint of nuttiness to the flavors. This is a wine that goes through a continuous evolution in the glass, because after about an hour and a half, the personality morphs into a slightly funky, mossy wet stone character, with the oak receding into the background and a chalky note emerging as well. Lovely and delicious, this seems to be still on the way up, and it wouldn't hurt to decant it for a while before drinking

A second bottle tasted with Alan Kerr a few weeks later showed rather differently, but no less impressively. The butterscotch, pineapple and nuttiness were nowhere to be found; instead there was plenty of fig, chalk, stony mineral, and as it opened, honey dew melon and red grapefruit. With moderate acidity and a long, long finish, this was also absolutely delicious. Interesting and instructive as to how individual bottles will go their own separate ways over time to develop distinctive characters.

1996 Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches, $56.99, 13.5% alc.: The aromatics of this medium straw to pale gold are rather stingy at first, not giving much more than a little wet stone - mineral; the flavors are more generous, with their pure chardonnay fruit taking on a soft pear - like character and blending seamlessly with that stony minerality. We decanted this about half an hour before tasting, and as it opens over a few hours, the bouquet blooms nicely, if not effusively; a soft nuttiness emerges, along with some subtle oak and just a hint of butterscotch on both the nose and palate. After an hour or so in the glass, it turns creamy smooth and velvet - like, rich and yet restrained at the same time, with deceptive acidity and a long, long finish. All about balance and finesse, this lovely wine makes a fine match for pan seared ahi tuna and asparagus dressed with a light blood orange vinaigrette, caramelized onions and du puy lentils. It is certainly one of the very best white wines we've had all year, but I still like the Chablis - Vaudésir better.

1996 Joseph Drouhin Meursault - Perrières Premier Cru, $46.99, 13.5% alc.: A medium straw to pale gold in color, this shows reticent aromatics of soft hazelnut and pear that echoes and expands on the palate with zippy acidity and wet stones that linger on the finish. It has a silky elegance to it, with medium intensity; well - integrated oak remains mostly in the background, and hints of butterscotch, vanilla and bees wax emerge as it opens. The finish flops a bit, leaving only a mouthful of river stones, and one wonders if this might not be a year or two past optimum drinking. A nice wine, but it doesn't ring our bell like the Chablis - Vaudésir or the Clos des Mouches.

Joseph Drouhin Wines Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.

Edited May 5, 2004 by geo t. (log)

[Craig Camp]

Do you think the difference between the two bottles of Chablis was storage? The second bottle sounds fresher while your mention of butterscotch and nutty flavors in the first bottle could hint at a bit of oxidation.

[geo t.]

Do you think the difference between the two bottles of Chablis was storage? The second bottle sounds fresher while your mention of butterscotch and nutty flavors in the first bottle could hint at a bit of oxidation.

The two bottles of Chablis were from the same stash, which were stored under ideal conditions. The was nothing oxydized about the characteristics of the first bottle, unlike a '96 Lamblin Blanchots that we opened about a month ago. That one had to be retired, regretfully. The first Chablis - Vaudésir was delicious in its own way, and was thoroughly enjoyed by five tasters.

[bobferdon]

Nice to see some Drouhin fans here... For the main course at my wedding I served 97' Les Clos. I love Chablis. I will be opening a few older reds soon. 1990 Gevrey-Chambertin and 1988 Corton. I will let you know how they held up...

Bob Ferdon

Dreyfus, Ashby & Co