Per Se

[Fat Guy]

He's 34, he's a graduate of the CIA; he worked at French Laundry for from '94-'95; he has worked in New York at Daniel, Gramercy Tavern, Craft, and others; he spent the year prior to the opening of Per Se in the kitchen at French Laundry. To put some of this in context, Tom Colicchio was Thomas Keller's sous-chef at Rakel in New York and they maintain a strong professional bond. So Benno's time with Colicchio at Gramercy Tavern and Craft was in many ways time spent in the Keller extended family.

[Bux]

FG,

You should start a thread about going "off-menu" in a high end place. This is where they take the goodies out of the fridge that they were saving for their friends. Costs a lot, though.

I get stuff like pork belly and tete de veau, but I'm never charged more than the guys eating lobster and foie gras from the menu.

[rich]

I sincerely apologize for not posting the food review. I have been so busy in work that I haven't had the chance. I can't do it from home because my Apple doesn't allow me to post (hell, I can barely read the messages).

In any event, I will make every effort to stay late one night and write the review. I have my notes with me.

As an aside, the person who told me the opening would occur between the March 17-20, is now being non-commital and very secretive. Draw your own conclusions.

[russ parsons]

benno's a great cook, no doubt. the last time i ate at french laundry (just before thanksgiving), we had an amazing meal. afterward, the captain came over and said thomas wanted to talk to me in the kitchen. when i went back, i was handed the phone. thomas was in paris for a meeting and benno had cooked the entire meal. i couldn't tell the difference.

ps: there's a really good description of the food in my colleague s. irene virbila's piece in the food section yesterday.

Edited March 4, 2004 by russ parsons (log)

[slkinsey]

ps: there's a really good description of the food in my colleague s. irene virbila's piece in the food section yesterday.

Of course, when one says "the food section" in the NY forum, it makes sense to mention which paper if you don't mean the NY Times. Anyway, here is the story (registration required).

Some interesting tidbits:

[Time Warner Center] developer Kenneth Himmel approached Keller first, and Keller struck a deal for his restaurant and the right to choose the other chefs who would go into the space. He picked [Masa] Takayama, the only other Californian, along with New York's Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Gray Kunz, and Chicago's Charlie Trotter.

Keller had the right to choose the other restaurants in the space? Did we know this before? Interesting.

When he began planning, Keller said the New York restaurant was not going to be the French Laundry "per se" so often that the two words became the name. But at first encounter, Per Se seems very much the French Laundry East.

The meal was every bit as good as those I've had at the French Laundry — phenomenal for a restaurant that had only been open five days.

I have to echo Russ' recommendation of Virbila's review. It's an interesting and informative one. Also has interesting information on Masa.

[Fat Guy]

What a coup for the LA Times to have full-length writeups of meals at Per Se and Masa so soon -- as far as I know there hasn't been anything close in any New York media. I'm not sure I can accept Virbila's unbridled praise at face value -- it sounds a bit too much like rooting for the home team and a bit too little like any kind of critical evaluation of the food -- but the information content in the piece is tremendous.

[slkinsey]

Very nice pictures, too.

[rich]

I know it's been a long-time coming but here is the food review for my nine-course dinner, which occurred Tuesday, February 17.

First, let me go through the wines. We had a half-bottle of the NV Billicart Rose Champagne with the amuse and the first two courses. Then I chose the 1997 Ridge Zinfandel Mazzoni Vineyard. Some may think a California Zin is an odd choice, but I wanted a wine that had enough fruit to mesh with the scallops and bass, and have enough strength to stand up to the rabbit and lamb. Both wines worked well and I was not disappointed with the pairings.

The amuse was a finely cubed fresh salmon carpaccio served in a wheat "ice cream" cone with creme fraiche. The waiter instructed us to put as much as possible in our mouth, so all the flavors would come through at once. The tastes were sublime, the creme fraiche was silky and worked wll with the crispness of the "ice cream" cone.

The next course was "Oysters and Pearls" - a sabayon a Pearl Tapioca with Bagaduce Oysters and Iranian Ossetra Caviar. At the end of the night, both of us thought this was the best of the nine courses. While the texture did lack any type of "crunch," the myriad of tastes that danced across the tongue were complex and layered. Long after the food was finished, the flavors lingered. I have never tasted better caviar and along with tapioca, this dish remains totally inspired.

The second course was either a Dugustation de Pomme De Terre - a puree of Princess La Ratte Potato with a ragout of New Crop Potatoes and Perigord Truffles or a Tourchon of Mollard Duck Fote Gras with spiced winter fruits, frisee lettuce and toasted Brioche. If you chose the latter, there was a $20 surcharge.

My wife had the potatoes and I had the fote gras. The potato dish came in a large round soup dish that was covered by layer of the vegetable, paper-thin sliced, fried and very crisp. I had a small taste and was quite impressed. The earthiness of the truffles was a perfect match with the crisp potatoes. The light sauce blended the flavors and gave the dish a unique richness. The Fote Gras was my second favorite course. It was silky, rich and had hints of sweetness. I was totally impressed with the perfectly toasted brioche. After I finished the first piece, the waiter removed the second piece and replaced it with a fresh piece in order to keep the toast warm - nice touch.

The third course was Crispy Skinned Black Bass with melted cipollini onions, herb roasted salsify and picked Walla Walla shallot sauce. The fish was perfectly cooked and the bitterness of the onions along with the sweetness of the shallots made a perfect sauce for the mildly flavored bass. The portion was extremely small, but that was its only fault.

The fourth course was Pan Roasted Maine Diver Scallop with Black Trumpet Mushroom duxelle, wilted arrowleaf spinach and madras curry emulsion. The scallop was sautted "dry" and that created a light crust. The combination of the duxelle, spinach and curry created intense flavors that seemed to overwhelm the scallop. I found that eating each separately was more enjoyable then the combination.

The fifth course was a Double Sirloin of Hallow Farm's Young Rabbit with fennel bulb tapenade and pomelo cells with toasted almonds and spiced breadcrumbs. The rabbit was prepared medium and didn't taste like chicken . It had a "gamey" sweetness and was quite tender. The sauce with the breadcrumbs and almonds created layers of textures. The fennel added a freshness that was unexpected. I thought this ranked third on the night.

The sixth course was Elysian Field Farm Selle D'Agneau Rotie Entiere with a cassoulet of Rancho Gordo Farm Pole Beans, lamb jus and thyme-infused oil. The lamb was rare/medium rare and cooked to perfection. If the aim was to mimic a mini cassoulet, it succeeded. While an very good dish, I thought this to be simple compared to the rest of the "entree" courses.

The seventh course was Ossau Vielle Cave with pickled satur farms heirloom carrots and golden raisin emulsion. I agree with Steve that this was the worst course of the evening. Not that is was bad, it just didn't measure up the rest of the meal. The cheese lacked the needed intensity to match the highly flavored carrots.

Number eight was the Lemongrass Sorbet with a ravioli of Maui pineapple with lime curd. I was impressed with the freshness of the lemongrass and the acidic nature of the pineapple. This course worked for me, though my wife felt the combination didn't work and was "fighting" in her mouth.

Th final course was a Tentation Au Chocolat, Noisette et Lait - milk chocolate cream, hazelnut feuillantine milk chocolate and praline glaze with condensed milk sherbert. My wife had this course, I substituted another cheese course, which is explain in the next paragraph. Though I only had a small taste of this dessert, I thought its strength was in the texture. It was smoother than silk and combined perfectly with the crunch of the hazelnut and pralines. My wife said the strong chocolate flavor was lingering and remained in her mouth for an extended period of time. Needless to say, she thoroughly enjoyed it.

Because I'm not a big chocolate fan, I was allowed to substitute a course from the five-course tasting - Roquefort Trifle with French butter pear relish and walnut dacquoise. This was the finest cheese course I have been served in a restaurant. Blue cheese and pears form a classic combination and this version intensified the flavors and allowed the cheese and fruit perform at their best.

The meal ended with two three-tiered trays of petit fors. I tasted a macaroon and it was magnificent. My wife said the chocolates were outstanding.

I won't try and rate Per Se, that would be an injustice to the restaurant. But two days in and it was working. I will go back, but at $633, I can't afford to go often. I will offer it the highest praise I can - it wasn't overpriced - the value matched the product.

Edited March 5, 2004 by rich (log)

[docsconz]

Nice report, Rich. Now I feel even more bummed that I have to reschedule my reservation!

Did the pomelo cells contribute in any noticeable way to the rabbit dish?

[robert40]

Rich,

Thank you so much for your report!!

My reservation was for tonight so your report was perfect timing in my book,as it helped numb the disappointment.

Tonight it's pasta sauce out of the Babbo cookbook and staying home to watch Survivor and lets hope for my TV's sake no oysters wash up on shore.

Chow.

[tanabutler]

The sixth course was Elysian Field Farm Selle D'Agneau Rotie Entiere with a cassoulet of Rancho Gordo Farm Pole Beans, lamb jus and thyme-infused oil.

WOWSAH!

Rancho Gordo hits the BIG TIME!

Congratulations, amigo!

[Pan]

I won't try and rate Per Se, that would be an injustice to the restaurant. But two days in and it was working. I will go back, but at $633, I can't afford to go often. I will offer it the highest praise I can - it wasn't overpriced - the value matched the product.

That really is extraordinary praise, and thanks for that great review!

I'm wondering if this place has the potential to be as good as a Michelin 3-star. Any opinions on that?

[Fat Guy]

Depends which Michelin three-star you're talking about!

Seriously, though, when I was there it was very much like a Michelin three-star experience -- albeit still rough around the edges. The only other place in New York that hits that level overall is ADNY. But, it should be said, when I was at Per Se they were doing a single sitting -- this makes such a huge difference it's hard to overstate the importance of the single sitting as one of the major defining elements of Michelin three-star dining. When Per Se goes to a table-turning schedule -- a plan I very much hope the restaurant abandons -- it will lose that attribute.

In New York, there's no major food hurdle to overcome in terms of competing with what Michelin three-star restaurants in Europe are offering. It's really the non-food aspects where we still lag behind. You can go to Daniel, for example, and experience a reasonable facsimile of a three-star meal -- and in just 120 minutes! I'm hoping, however, that ADNY and Per Se will mark the beginning of a trend towards the restaurants at the top of the pyramid abandoning the multiple-sittings approach in favor of the European model.

Of course, the New York Times could help by doing what Michelin does: make it an unwritten but well understood rule that, with limited exceptions, you simply can't have the top rating if you bang out the food for three sittings per night.

[robert40]

Some where I recently read that Thomas Keller only planned one and half turns a night keeping the covers under one hundred.

I'll have to find it and post a link.

[Fat Guy]

That's correct, but it's not just a matter of the raw numbers. There's a big difference between serving a 100-seat dining-room in a single sitting and serving a 65-seat dining-room in a sitting and a half. Once you book a party behind another party at a given table, your whole operation has to reorient towards the goal of clearing that table in time for the follow-on party -- and on servicing that second party at an accelerated pace. It also means you have to force people into very early and very late reservations in order to accommodate the turns. Especially in a restaurant that primarily serves 10+ courses to its customers, it's a bad idea. It will only be a matter of time before we see the first post on eGullet from someone who 1) was rushed at Per Se, or 2) had to wait an hour for his table at Per Se.

[IrishCream]

My FL experience: seatings were at about 6:30 and 9:30 which allowed plenty of time for a leisurely 5 course menu with a change of tables. For some it allowed time for the entire tasting menu. Many tables did not turn but a few did. I think Keller has the numbers figured out.

Also, thanks Rich for your review. Great to hear that many of the classic dishes are being served. But I am surprised that he is using smoked salmon in his signature amuse bouche. At FL, it was always finely minced salmon carpaccio (raw). Perhaps he cannot get the same quality of salmon in NY? Or Nyers prefer it cooked?

[rich]

But I am surprised that he is using smoked salmon in his signature amuse bouche.  At FL, it was always finely minced salmon carpaccio (raw).  Perhaps he cannot get the same quality of salmon in NY?  Or Nyers prefer it cooked?

My fault on that. I think my brain wrote the word smoked without my eyes seeing it. It wasn't, it was fresh. I will correct my review - thanks.

The pomelo cells didn't really add much - they were very, very subtle.

Edited March 5, 2004 by rich (log)

[babka]

what _do_ pomelo cells taste like?

[jogoode]

what _do_ pomelo cells taste like?

Like pomelos!

[robyn]

My FL experience: seatings were at about 6:30 and 9:30...

Why is it that we make fun of early bird specials when FL = Fort Lauderdale - and not French Laundry. Perhaps I am unusual - but I like to start eating dinner between 7:30 and 8:30 - and I don't understand why I should spend more than $500 to eat at times which might be suitable for my elderly parents - or for people who are eating post-theater - as opposed to a reasonable time when I usually like to eat.

I agree with Fat Guy. There's no such thing as a 3 star restaurant (with 3 star prices) when you're talking about 2 or more seatings a night (and I don't have the slightest idea what 1 1/2 seatings a night means - because - when the house takes reservations - it expects that my table will turn over - or it won't). Robyn

[melkor]

and I don't have the slightest idea what 1 1/2 seatings a night means - because - when the house takes reservations - it expects that my table will turn over - or it won't

It means just that, some of the tables turn over - others don't. Different people want to eat at different times - there is no reason the restaurant shouldn't be able to handle a 5:30 reservation as well as a 10 o'clock and since the people sitting down at 5:30 will be long gone by the time 10 rolls around, what's the problem with flipping the table? If you sit down for an 8 o'clock reservation your table will be yours for the night.

[juuceman]

My FL experience: seatings were at about 6:30 and 9:30...

Why is it that we make fun of early bird specials when FL = Fort Lauderdale - and not French Laundry. Perhaps I am unusual - but I like to start eating dinner between 7:30 and 8:30 - and I don't understand why I should spend more than $500 to eat at times which might be suitable for my elderly parents - or for people who are eating post-theater - as opposed to a reasonable time when I usually like to eat.

i had a 7:30 reservation.. i found that if i was willing to be flexible in terms of dates, they were flexible in terms of times.. of course, this happened to work on the first day the reservation lines opened.. and it was my understanding that they were only doing a single seating the first month or so, regardless..

[IrishCream]

My FL experience: seatings were at about 6:30 and 9:30...

Why is it that we make fun of early bird specials when FL = Fort Lauderdale - and not French Laundry. Perhaps I am unusual - but I like to start eating dinner between 7:30 and 8:30 - and I don't understand why I should spend more than $500 to eat at times which might be suitable for my elderly parents - or for people who are eating post-theater - as opposed to a reasonable time when I usually like to eat.

I agree with Fat Guy. There's no such thing as a 3 star restaurant (with 3 star prices) when you're talking about 2 or more seatings a night (and I don't have the slightest idea what 1 1/2 seatings a night means - because - when the house takes reservations - it expects that my table will turn over - or it won't). Robyn

Oh. Well, I apologize for starting a rumor that FL (meaning French Laundry, not Florida) seats people at uncomfortable times or is concerned about turning tables. When I ate there in September, my reservation was for 7:30. I had the table for the night. However, I observed that some people were finishing up and later some others got tables. I can't imagine in my wildest dreams how this stops it from being a 3 star restaurant. In fact, it is considered one of the best in the world.

[robyn]

My FL experience: seatings were at about 6:30 and 9:30...

Why is it that we make fun of early bird specials when FL = Fort Lauderdale - and not French Laundry. Perhaps I am unusual - but I like to start eating dinner between 7:30 and 8:30 - and I don't understand why I should spend more than $500 to eat at times which might be suitable for my elderly parents - or for people who are eating post-theater - as opposed to a reasonable time when I usually like to eat.

I agree with Fat Guy. There's no such thing as a 3 star restaurant (with 3 star prices) when you're talking about 2 or more seatings a night (and I don't have the slightest idea what 1 1/2 seatings a night means - because - when the house takes reservations - it expects that my table will turn over - or it won't). Robyn

Oh. Well, I apologize for starting a rumor that FL (meaning French Laundry, not Florida) seats people at uncomfortable times or is concerned about turning tables. When I ate there in September, my reservation was for 7:30. I had the table for the night. However, I observed that some people were finishing up and later some others got tables. I can't imagine in my wildest dreams how this stops it from being a 3 star restaurant. In fact, it is considered one of the best in the world.

Well - 7:30 is fine. I got the impression from your message that you had to reserve at 6:30 or 9:30. Robyn

[Fat Guy]

Turning half the tables means, simply, that any reservation before time X (say, 6:30) will have another reservation behind it (after, say, 9:30). The tables booked after time X can't accommodate a second sitting -- an 8:00 table would de facto be a single sitting.

There are several issues that arise when you do it this way. For starters, you force more than half the customers into reservation times they probably don't want. For the most part -- with a few exceptions -- people only eat at 5:30 or 10:00 at a restaurant like Per Se because they're forced to by availability. Whereas, if you do a single sitting as at ADNY or most any Michelin two- or three-star restaurant in France, almost every customer can be given a reservation between 7:00 and 9:00 -- and those very few who want to eat earlier or later can be accommodated as well. With 1.5 turns, you can accommodate 50% more customers, but 66% of all your customers will be dining at undesirable times. Needless to say, given the reality of the market, the situation will likely develop to the point where no non-VIP customer will ever get one of the desirable reservations.

Once you have a table with another reservation behind it, the dynamic changes. There's no avoiding it. Many, perhaps most, of my meals at the three-star level and at ADNY have lasted more than 4 hours. If you want to do a degustation where the total number of courses with all the little extras runs up to 13 or 14, and you want to enjoy some bubbly or a cocktail beforehand, and you want to linger over coffee afterwards, you can't have that meal at an enjoyable pace if the waitstaff and kitchen have been oriented towards getting you out and having the table reset by a certain time. And the restaurant is too small to provide much in the way of flexibility. At a place like Gramercy Tavern, they know that if a party lingers at one table they'll probably have another table of the same size turning 10 minutes later. They can work it out. At a tiny place like Per Se, the restaurant gets forced into a position where the choice is between pushing a party out in order to clear a table, or having another party start off the evening on a bad note with a half-hour wait. And the party sitting at 10:00, who wants to have the full degustation experience from Champagne to coffee? The choice is between rushing it, implementing a no-degustations-after 9:30pm rule, or having that party finishing up alone in the dining room at 2:00am.

I think -- though I may be wrong -- that most anybody who has dined around France a bit will testify that the single sitting is either the most significant or one of the most significant factors differentiating Michelin three-star restaurants from the best restaurants in New York. It changes the whole feel and dynamic of the place. There's a whole life-cycle to the evening that you experience in a single-sitting restaurant that just doesn't occur when tables are being turned.

Per Se is one of only two restaurants in New York that really has the potential to best the Michelin three-star restaurants of Europe on all fronts. But if the restaurant starts turning its tables, it essentially removes itself from the category.