First wine in a week

[Florida Jim]

After a week of the flu and no wine . . .

With a puree of butternut squash, sautéed spinach and grilled wild Alaskan Salmon:

2002 William Fevre, Chablis “Champs Royaux”:

On the back label, this wine is described as, “. . . fresh, refined and elegant with a pleasant roundness, achieved by barrel ageing.” Whoever wrote the copy had not tasted the wine.

A moderately pungent nose of lemon and mineral leads to a palate that is intense, angular and disjointed. But it is also concentrated, ripe, already showing some complexity and the substantial acids are fully in charge. It is not integrated but shows the potential to come together over time. By comparison, the 2002 Brun Beaujolais Blanc has more integration and rounder tones now but this has much more cut. Moreover, it is quite long, even considering how crisp the finish is; mouthwateringly so.

There is no evidence of any oak use so, if the label is correct, it must have been neutral wood. It is showing very young but powerful and well stuffed (especially for a village wine) with excellent acidity. Almost too much cut for the food. ‘Needs several years in the cellar. Price unknown.

Thanks Nathan.

Best, Jim