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anthony giglio of nj monthly


kimmyb72

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I'm a new poster to this foreum, so please bear with me... I am interested in knowing if anyone read Mr. Giglio's reviews of both Lunello's and Augustino's in the Feb issue of NJ Monthly. Let me just give you some highlights.

While reviewing Lunello's he speaks of the bar scene as a casting call for the Sopranos, with spandex shirts and open toe shoes. He then speaks of the woman as big-haired, bejeweled beauties. I found both these descriptions extremely inappropriate and not relavent at all to the topic at hand. Next Mr. Giglio's tell us that his dining partner, his Uncle Frank, nods toward a voluptuous blonde in a white Lycra T-shirt who's squeezing past their table and says, "I'll have a side of that". Again, extremely inappropriate.

In reviewing Augustino's he describes the wife of the owner, Sharon, as being the perfect madam in a spaghetti-Western brothel, able to charm any gentleman while letting him know she'd be able to kick his butt out the door if he got out of line. He then tells us that she likes to use the f-word a lot. When Mr. Giglio called for a reservation Sharon told him that "the place is a f-in zoo and he's gotta call at least three days in advance to get a weeknight table and for a f-ing saturday call three weeks ahead, ok honey?" Is such detail really necessary? We are also told that she flirts shamelessly with Mr. Giglio in front of his wife. So that's the gist of it, really. He likes the food in both cases but the reviews are both obscene and filled with derogatory comments. Rosie, as a writer for the same magazine, I am interested in what you think of these reviews as well as what other posters think.

Thanks

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I'm sitting bhere looking at my screen really not knowing what to say. I've been known to throw the f bomb at the bar but using it over the phone to potential customers, I don't know but obviously Sharon gets away with it as A.G. wasn't disturbed by it nor the customers as the place is full. ( Only 28 seats)

Now, if A.G. comes in to review The Grill (Haven't been yet in 9+ years) I know how to greet him.

"Tony, how the fuck you doin" Then it's over to The Showplace to get some strippers for the bar. I'd like him to be comfortable.

I do draw the line with a kiss at the door.

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it should be noted that not all of mr. giglio's reviews read like this.  i thought it was a nice departure.  and knowing Augustino's, i *really* got a kick out of it.

I hope no one goes on a Anti-Soprano's rant or how this could be misconstruded as Anti-Italian. Thank God Mr Giglio is Italian-American or all the zealots would be looking to hang him by a streetlight in Milan. :blink:

Hi-ya-doin. :raz:

Edited by Lreda (log)
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all i'm saying is i thought his comments were extremely inappropriate. he should be describing the food, not what customers are wearing and how much jewelry the woman have on. he's a food critic, not a fashion critic.

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No, it's not all about the food but the total dining experience. We have to provide ambiance, a good beverage system ( wine by the glass, port list, etc). Music has to be good enough to please customers in their 20's as well as their 60%. A someone good social scene has to exsist at the bar. I think Mr Giglio did a fine job with his review. Sharon & The Soprano's scene at LuNello's were part of what the fiber of each restaurant is

Edited by Lreda (log)
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and i suppose the uncle saying that he would like a side dish of the woman walking by him is part of the "total dining experience?" i guess i just have a different view of how a restaurant should be reviewed. i feel it should focus on the food, not what people are wearing.

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all i'm saying is i thought his comments were extremely inappropriate. he should be describing the food, not what customers are wearing and how much jewelry the woman have on. he's a food critic, not a fashion critic.

This is a good point; it's somewhat of a gray area as to whether the dress and demeanor of the other patrons is part of the "ambience" of a restaurant. I don't know if I've ever seen that described by other critics. It does seem like treading on dangerous ground, though.

I know dress habits at Broadway shows, for example, have changed dramatically in the last 15 years; you used to feel the need for a business-type outfit, tie, jacket, or "preppie" look-- now, the crowd at Broadway is a mixed bag, with scores of shabbily-attired folks. But no Broadway review ever discusses that.

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I know dress habits at Broadway shows, for example, have changed dramatically in the last 15 years; you used to feel the need for a business-type outfit, tie, jacket, or "preppie" look-- now, the crowd at Broadway is a mixed bag, with scores of shabbily-attired folks. But no Broadway review ever discusses that.

It is ot unusual for a restaurant review to include the dress code or dress of the customers. Upscale preppie, minis and manolas(sp?), black turtleneck yuppie, beach casual ,etc. While Mr. Giglio went much further than this, it does give you a better sense of the clientele of a restaurant, which will contribute to the atmosphere of the place. I also want to know if an establishment is very family friendly. Even if the food is wonderful, I probably don't want to plan a romantic dinner for two in a place that is usually filled with small children. It helps in describing the atmosphere, which can be as important to me as the food.

KathyM

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I'm not home and working on a VERY OLD computer so I'll be brief. I thought Anthony's review of Augustino's captured the place beautifully. He did a great job. Lowell and I have been to Augustino's and got a kick out of the waitress.

I have dined at Basilico's MANY times since it opened and always found the food and service to be excellent. In other words I have had different experiences there than Anthony. He described HIS experience there.

Rosalie Saferstein, aka "Rosie"

TABLE HOPPING WITH ROSIE

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I hope no one goes on a Anti-Soprano's rant or how this could be misconstruded as Anti-Italian. Thank God Mr Giglio is Italian-American or all the zealots would be looking to hang him by a streetlight in Milan.

I didn't misconstruded [sic] his goombah comments - I simply regard them as misguided.

In his review of Giumarello's he said the Caesar Salad had no taste of anchovies and was therefore "not authentic". In Caesar Cardini's original recipe the only anchovies were in the Worcestershire sauce. So, not having a pronounced anchovy flavor sounds "authentic" to me.

Dum vivimus, vivamus!

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since not everyone thinks his comments were inappropriate (clearly there's not just one barometer for this), i suppose it comes down to preference. if you don't like his reviews, don't read his reviews. and don't read mine either, as you probably won't like the way i write.

Edited by tommy (log)
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In retrospect, I think A.G.'s review was spot on.( No offense to Kimmyb72) I look back at how I built my clientelle (Sic) and I wouldn't change anything. I have a bunch of unique people that frequent my place. I think it adds to the ambiance of the place. In fact more reviewers should catch the total essence of a restaurant.

Someone let me know if A.G is coming and if Valerie shows up I'll be hard placed to get a clarinet foursome up quickly. :laugh:

At least when Rosie shows up I only have to wear a midriff. :raz:

'

Edited by Lreda (log)
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tommy as i said before i'm new at this and not as experienced as the other people on here. you don't have to answer like that.

i'm merely pointing out that it comes down to preference. it has nothing to do with experience on this particular website, or experience dining for that matter.

fact: the reviewer heard "fuck" several times at dinner.

fact: the reviewer reported this.

on the one hand, some people are offended that he would use such language.

on the other hand, some people think that he should simply stick to the food in his reviews.

i'm suggesting that he was being helpful in reporting that he heard "fuck", as some people might be put-off by that kind of language, and therefore might want to avoid that restaurant. personally, i have no problem with it, but i can appreciate that some people might.

beyond that, of course, i suggested that if people don't like his style of reviews, they should steer clear of them. that suggestion shouldn't be taken personally.

Edited by tommy (log)
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FWIW, I'm a huge fan of Anthony's writing and - full disclosure - know and like him (& his wife) very much. I thought his review of Augustino's was a hoot and though i've never been, after reading the piece i felt as if i totally get what they're doing there; not just what's on the plate, but the look and feel and sensibility of it all. And as KimWB pointed out, that's what gives me enough information to know if that's a place i want to visit - or i don't.

With respect to kimmyb72, over the last ten years (or so), a meal at a restaurant has developed into much, much more than what's on your plate. It's your evening's entertainment and, as such, it's about cuisine + decor + the flowers on the table + competence of the service staff + what the ladies' room looks like + how much bling bling is lighting up the room ... which is why (i think) it's extremely important for a reviewer to convey his/her impressions of the total experience.

When Ruth Reichl started writing for The Times, her reviews were eye-openers to many. She listened in on other people's conversations and wrote poignantly about them; she commented on fashion and lifestyle and all sorts of things within the confines of her critiques. Some liked it; some didn't - but i think she had a profound impact on restaurant criticism.

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In addition to being a review of food, a restaurant review is a piece of literature -- a story. It's supposed to be enjoyable and interesting. Lengthy clinical descriptions of food just aren't enjoyable or interesting to read, especially when the food itself isn't particularly unusual or complex. So a good writer looks for ways to place the food discussion -- which is the core of the review -- in a context.

I agree that restaurant reviewers serve the public best by focusing on food, and I think at a certain point all the talk of what people at other tables becomes frivolous and distracting -- I think Ruth Reichl was guilty of going too far in that direction too often. At the same time, consumers (aka the readers) want to know about more than just food. Indeed, anybody who has dealt with large numbers of restaurant customers can testify that most of them will be thrilled with unremarkable food so long as you provide them with what they consider to be great service, ambience, value etc. And plenty of customers simply won't enjoy a restaurant -- no matter how good the food is -- if the place itself isn't their style. So I do think it's quite necessary for a critic to report on the atmosphere of a restaurant. If it's a good read, all the better.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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Just throwing in my .02 here...knowing what I now do about those two restaurants enables me to decide they're inappropriate choices for dining with some people (i.e. Jim's folks--see the thread titled "Oh, help.")! Granted, the reviewer could have said something like "Expect to hear colorful language from the moment you walk through the door," but that really wouldn't have conveyed just how colorful. Separate of knowing how great the food is (crucial!), I must agree that knowing about the full 'atmosphere' of a restaurant (including info on the staff, customers, dress code, decor) helps me decide whether or not I want try it, and with whom.

Kimmyb72, please don't take these responses personally! One of the beautiful things about egullet is that you can express your opinion, hear what others think, and move on to another thread. Sometimes you'll learn something new, sometimes you'll disagree with other posters, but it's all good--or at least, that's MY opinion. :smile:

"I'm not eating it...my tongue is just looking at it!" --My then-3.5 year-old niece, who was NOT eating a piece of gum

"Wow--this is a fancy restaurant! They keep bringing us more water and we didn't even ask for it!" --My 5.75 year-old niece, about Bread Bar

"He's jumped the flounder, as you might say."

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