Austrian and Hungarian Tortes and Pastries

[Inbicooks]

I believe it did. What 's it called and does anyone have a good recipe?

[ludja]

All these descriptions make me want to catch the next plane to Budapest.

I have a question, I don't know if it's about pastry or bread, I guess it falls somewhere in between. Last time I was in Budapest I was introduced to this bread, but it was more like a cake, the texture and flavour was similar to challa bread, only the central part was chocolaty.  Does anyone know what I'm talking about and maybe have a recipe?  My friend is coming to visit me from Budapest and he's crazy about the stuff, I would like to surprise him with it.

That looks very similar to what in Austria is called a 'yeast strudel'. The common fillings in Austria are walnut or poppyseed and they are usually just called, "walnut strudel" or "poppyseed strudel". It has a sweet yeast-based dough that is, as you say, 'challah-like'. It's not too sweet and we usually eat it for breakfast or a snack with coffee, etc.

They look very similar to the photo that Mistinguett posted except the ones I've seen (and my Mom makes) are made into a free-form roll rather than baked in a loaf pan.

Looking through some of my Austrian/Hungarian pastry books I see just a hint of a mention that one may combine the poppyseed or walnut filling with chocolate so that may be close to what you had.

I've never tried to make it myself yet so I can't personally recommend a recipe. I know that my mom makes one out of O. and A. Hess's Viennese Cooking. (order through this egullet-amazon link and it's $$ in the bank for the gullet). This book is a classic translated into english from "Wiener Kuche" in 1952 but the directions are very sparse. It helps to be a little experienced in baking or to have an idea of the finished product.

A perhaps more accessible recipe is in Rick Rodger's Kaffeehaus Here he calls it "Hungarian Walnut Roulades".

For fillings I would just use the suggested poppyseed or walnut fillings and add some grated chocolate to it.

Here are a few recipes from the web to give you and idea but again I can't guarantee anything...

June Meyer's Walnut or Poppyseed Strudel

walnut or poppyseed milk bread This site has a recipe from Gourmet Magazine so it may be more accessible/have better instructions.

Hope this is helpful. This may inspire me to try a walnut version on my own to see that I can do it! Can't promise I'll do this soon, but I'll post back here if I do.

Please also post back here if you try any of these; I'm kind of intrigued by the chocolate versions...

[Swisskaese]

I have a chocolate recipe for this type of bread. It is called a Babka. I will post it when I get home.

[Swisskaese]

All these descriptions make me want to catch the next plane to Budapest.

I have a question, I don't know if it's about pastry or bread, I guess it falls somewhere in between. Last time I was in Budapest I was introduced to this bread, but it was more like a cake, the texture and flavour was similar to challa bread, only the central part was chocolaty. Does anyone know what I'm talking about and maybe have a recipe? My friend is coming to visit me from Budapest and he's crazy about the stuff, I would like to surprise him with it.

Here is the recipe I mentioned. I would put it in RecipeGullet, but I have a problem entering a recipe.

Chocolate or Cinnamon Babka

2 loaves

This recipe can either be made using unbleached all purpose flour or half bread flour and half all purpose flour.

DOUGH

1 1/2 cups water

2 tablespoons yeast

pinch sugar

2 eggs

2 egg yolks

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 drops almond extract

1 teaspoon lemon juice

3/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup milk powder

1 cup unsalted butter - softened in small pieces

6 cups (approx.) unbleached all-purpose flour or combination (see note above).

BABKA FILLINGS:

Chocolate, Cinnamon (below)

EGG WASH

l beaten egg

Sugar for sprinkling

Mix together the water, yeast, and pinch of sugar together in a large mixing bowl. Put aside for five minutes so that the yeast will swell and dissolve in the water. Mix in eggs, egg yolks, vanilla, almond extract, lemon juice, sugar, salt and milk powder. Fold in the butter and flour. Mix the dough and knead by hand or with a dough hook until the dough forms a ball and is smooth and elastic (8-10 minutes).

Put the dough in a greased bowl and cover with plastic or place bowl in a plastic bag. Let rise for 45-90 minutes.

After the dough has risen, split the dough into two parts cover with a towel to rest for 10 minutes.

Grease two 9-inch springform pans, cake pans, large loaf pans or if you decide to make one large babka, then grease a tube pan. I use a deep loaf pan.

On a floured surface, roll one part into a 16x16 inch square. Spread the filling of your choice on the dough and roll up like a jelly roll. Cut the jelly roll in half and place both parts next to each other in one loaf pan. You can smush them together.

Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with some sugar. Place loaf pan in a plastic bag and let rise until bubka is flush or over top of pan.

Repeat with the other dough and place in the second pan.

If you want to make one large babka, then roll the dough, without separating it into two parts into a 20 x 20 inch square and proceed as written in the paragraph above. Place in the tube pan.

Preheat oven to 350F. Bake for 30-45 minutes or 50-70 minutes for a large babka. The bubka should be golden brown. Let cool in the pan for 15 minutes before removing to a rack to cool completely.

Chocolate Filling

1 1/2 cups semi-sweet chocolate chips or imported chocolate

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 cup cocoa

1/2 cup sugar

3 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine

Mix everything together in a food processor and make a loose paste.

Cinnamon Filling

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1 cup brown sugar

2 tablespoons corn syrup

2-4 teaspoons cinnamon

3/4 cup chopped walnuts - optional

Mix everything together in a food processor and make a loose paste.

I usually make one cinnamon and one chocolate babka.

[ludja]

...

The Gestenygolju (Chestnut balls, with a chocolate exterior and not only chestnut paste but also sour cherries inside) also sound incredible.  I've never heard of them.  I love chestnut desserts, including, 'Kastanien Reis" or Gestenypure or "Mont Blanc".  I've had other good chestnut tortes in which a nice yellow cake is split in two and filled with a thick band of chestnut puree/whipped cream and served with more schlag... of course.

...

←

Swisskaese started a thread on Gesztenya Torta or Hungarian Chestnut Cream Torte in the Pastry and Baking forum here.

I've been eying making some Kastanienschnitten (Chestnut Slices) out of Rodger's Kaffehaus for an upcoming dinner.

Anyone have other favorite chestnut desserts to share from the area?

[ludja]

I like Powidltaschkerl a lot. (Kind of potatao dough raviolis filled with a prune reduction. Served hot). Originally from Boehmia, I think. Let's say "K&K".

...

←

Now I understand the "K&K" reference.

K&K" refers to Kaiserlich und Königlich, or "by appointment to the Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary" and therefore can include dishes from the greater Austro-Hungarian Empire. There is/was movement of many dishes between the countries so I guess this is a good moniker for desserts/foods from that era. Austrian cuisine in particular adopted many dishes with varying amounts of changes from around the empire.

[ludja]

I made the Kastanienscnitten (Chestnut Slices) mentioned above and posted the results in this thread on Hungarian Chestnut Cream Torte. I thought I would include the post here as well for fans of desserts from this tradition.

...

They are popular in Austria and Hungary.  I used a recipe from Rick Rodger's Kaffeehaus.  His basic recipe is a sponge cake layer which also has some chestnut puree folded into the batter.  The cake layer is soaked with brandy syrup and is topped with a chestnut cream made from chestnut puree, confectionary sugar, vanilla and whipped cream.  The slices are topped with grated chocolate.  I modified the recipe by adding in a baked almond meringue layer.  It is a very creamy dessert and there is a very nice chestnut flavor. 

I got the idea of using a dacquoise layer from a chestnut slice I had at Cafe Sabarsky in NYC.  I think I recall that their meringue layer still had some crispness to it.  I assembled my dessert about 8 hrs before we ate it and the meringue layer was of course soft.  The ground almonds added a nice textural element to the dessert though in addition to adding some height.

I used a canned chestnut puree from France -- Clement Faugier.  (This is the only brand I've seen in shops out here.)

Here is a photo:

←

[ludja]

Actually, Hungarian szilva gomboc (plum dumplings) sound like the plum confections you are mentioning.

Yes, there is lots of overlap between the foods of Austria and Hungary and all the other countries of the old empire-especially in Burgenland and Styria. Most of the names I know are the Austrian ones...

Thanks for posting the recipe! I guess the only other thing to mention is to make sure one uses "floury or mealy" potatoes for the mashed potatoes, i.e. russets (in the US) rather than waxy ones. And, as far I know--just potatoes that are mashed--i.e. no cream, butter, salt and pepper....

(Or as my Oma would say, 'mehlig erdapfel'.)

...

←

Last summer I made some potato dumplings filled with apricots... Later in the summer, small plums (called "Italian plums" in the US) are used for the filling.

Marillenknoedel (Apricot Dumplings)

These dumplings are made with a potato dough (similar to a gnocchi dough) and are a special seasonal dish I look forward to each fleeting moment in summer when fresh apricots are available. A half sugar cube inside the apricot adds a needed touch of sweetness. I like adding some ground walnuts to the toasted and sweetened bread crumb coating as well.

Edited March 16, 2007 by ludja (log)

[legourmet]

Last summer I made some potato dumplings filled with apricots... Later in the summer, small plums (called "Italian plums" in the US) are used for the filling.

Marillenknoedel (Apricot Dumplings)

These dumplings are made with a potato dough (similar to a gnocchi dough) and are a special seasonal dish I look forward to each fleeting moment in summer when fresh apricots are available.  A half sugar cube inside the apricot adds a needed touch of sweetness.  I like adding some ground walnuts to the toasted and sweetened bread crumb coating as well. 

←

Very good. I really can taste the Marillenknödel when looking at the picture. I'll use "Topfen" (farmer's Cheese) dough for the dumplings instead of potato dough.

Other goodies I'll serve once in a while are "Powidltascherl"; "Liwanzen"; "Zwetschgenpovesen" "Böhmische Dalken"; "Buchteln"; "Prager Palatschinken"; "Semmelbaba" etc, etc. There are so many desserts and cakes I like.

[ludja]

Last summer I made some potato dumplings filled with apricots... Later in the summer, small plums (called "Italian plums" in the US) are used for the filling.

Marillenknoedel (Apricot Dumplings)

These dumplings are made with a potato dough (similar to a gnocchi dough) and are a special seasonal dish I look forward to each fleeting moment in summer when fresh apricots are available.  A half sugar cube inside the apricot adds a needed touch of sweetness.  I like adding some ground walnuts to the toasted and sweetened bread crumb coating as well.  ...

←

Very good. I really can taste the Marillenknödel when looking at the picture. I'll use "Topfen" (farmer's Cheese) dough for the dumplings instead of potato dough.

Other goodies I'll serve once in a while are "Powidltascherl"; "Liwanzen"; "Zwetschgenpovesen" "Böhmische Dalken"; "Buchteln"; "Prager Palatschinken"; "Semmelbaba" etc, etc. There are so many desserts and cakes I like.

←

Thanks, legourmet! I think my grandmother usually uses Topfen dough for Marrillenknoedel (apricot dumplings) and potato dough for Zwetschgenknoedel (plum dumplings) but I had a hankering to try the potato dough this time...

Thank you for sharing some of your favorites. I've not made any of these but I know some of them. They sound like they fall in the category more similar to the Apricot Dumplings and Palatschinken than to tortes, that is, homey, filling desserts. I really like both!

Powidltascherl: Potato dough dumplings in which the dough is rolled flat as for pasta, cut into rounds, filled with plum/prune butter, formed into half-moons (“pockets”) and cooked. They are then served with sugared and butter-sautéed breadcrumbs.

Boehmische Dalken "Bohemian Pancakes” Small, usually yeasted, pancakes that are sandwiched with jam (usually plum jam (Powidl) flavored with rum.) Another filling might be sweetened Topfen with lemon and maybe rum-soaked raisins. Topfen is the Austrian-German term for Germany’s “Quark” and the U.S.’s Farmer’s Cheese. These can sometimes be topped with a mixture of ground poppyseeds, sugar and cinnamon.

Buchteln: “Jam Rolls” Yeasted sweet rolls filled with jam, brushed with plenty of butter, loosely packed into a pan and baked (I’ve been hearing that these are a specialty served fresh and warm at Café Hawelka in Vienna; I hope to sample them this summer.) I read in one place that these are sometimes served with a Vanilla sauce?

Semmelbaba (‘Semmel” is a roll; “baba” is a grandmother or old woman?)

As far as I can tell, this is an apple-bread pudding flavored with cinnamon, raisins and almonds. At the end of baking it is covered with a meringue and cooked for a short time and then topped with vanilla or powdered sugar.

^Do these descriptions sound correct?

Not as sure about these...

Zwetschgenpovesen a Czech dish with plums…???

As far as I can tell Liwanzen seem similar to Boehmische Dalken? Does it imply a different filling or is there some other difference?

Prager Palatschinken Are these different than Austrian versions of Palatschinken? (crepes) Are the typical fillings apricot or plum jam or sweetened Topfen or something else?

Edited March 20, 2007 by ludja (log)

[legourmet]

Thanks, legourmet!  I think my grandmother usually uses Topfen dough for Marrillenknoedel (apricot dumplings) and potato dough for Zwetschgenknoedel (plum dumplings) but I had a hankering to try the potato dough this time...

Thank you for sharing some of your favorites.  I've not made any of these but I know some of them.  They sound like they fall in the category more similar to the Apricot Dumplings and Palatschinken than to tortes, that is, homey, filling desserts.  I really like both!

Powidltascherl: Potato dough dumplings in which the dough is rolled flat as for pasta, cut into rounds, filled with plum/prune butter, formed into half-moons (“pockets”) and cooked.  They are then served with sugared and butter-sautéed breadcrumbs.

Boehmische Dalken "Bohemian Pancakes” Small, usually yeasted, pancakes that are sandwiched with jam (usually plum jam  (Powidl) flavored with rum.)  Another filling might be sweetened Topfen with lemon and maybe rum-soaked raisins.  Topfen is the Austrian-German term for Germany’s “Quark” and the U.S.’s Farmer’s Cheese.  These can sometimes be topped with a mixture of ground poppyseeds, sugar and cinnamon.

Buchteln:  “Jam Rolls” Yeasted sweet rolls filled with jam, brushed with plenty of butter, loosely packed into a pan and baked  (I’ve been hearing that these are a specialty served fresh and warm at Café Hawelka in Vienna; I hope to sample them this summer.)  I read in one place that these are sometimes served with a Vanilla sauce?

Semmelbaba (‘Semmel” is a roll; “baba” is a grandmother or old woman?)

As far as I can tell, this is an apple-bread pudding flavored with cinnamon, raisins and almonds.  At the end of baking it is covered with a meringue and cooked for a short time and then topped with vanilla or powdered sugar.

^Do these descriptions sound correct?

Not as sure about these...

Zwetschgenpovesen  a Czech dish with plums…???

As far as I can tell  Liwanzen seem similar to Boehmische Dalken?  Does it imply a different filling or is there some other difference?

Prager Palatschinken Are these different than Austrian versions of Palatschinken?  (crepes)  Are the typical fillings apricot or plum jam or sweetened Topfen or something else?

←

Powidltascherl: I prepare those in two different ways.

1.) Noodle dough " Ravioli" filled with plain powidl and served on browned butter sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon.

2.) Potato dough half moons filled with powidl flavoured with rum and whipping cream served on browned butter and sprinkled with sugared and butter-sautéed breadcrumbs.

Böhmische Dalken: Your description is correct. I serve it not sandwiched. Just topped with rum flavored powidl or sweetened Topfen with lemon, sprinkled with sugar cinnamon and ground gingerbread. Another topping is any sort of jam.

Buchteln: I like them filled with powidl and served lukewarm.

Yes, Buchteln can be served with vanilla sauce too, but preferably the smaller ones which are called "Dukatenbuchteln"

Semmelbaba: correct description

Zwetschgenpovesen: Rolls cut into 1/10 " slices. Two slices topped with plum jam and sandwiched. Dipped into a mixture of flour, milk and eggs, and fried in clarified butter on both sides until golden brown. Sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon.

Liwanzen: A yeast dough, fried on both sides in a special pan ( a little bit like a muffin pan) Served like the Böhmische Dalken.

Prager Palatschinken: similar to the Austrian dish, but preferably filled with sweetened chestnut cream, candied fruits and whipped cream. Other fillings are vanilla cream or topfen. A salted version is filled with Prague Ham or mushrooms.