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Young & Hungry, by Todd Kliman

morela

By morela
in D.C. & DelMarVa: Dining

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Mark Sommelier

Mark Sommelier

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Posted

Interesting comment this, on several levels. 

In addition to local food discussion, show me another "food website" Mark that also has anything remotely like the eGCI or any special feature in print or online with the depth and originality of our Alinea project subforum

Steve,

Perhaps I should amend my quote to say this: This is why most chefs I know don't pay attention to what is said on eGullet or other food/restaurant websites with anonymous posters.

Mark

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morela

morela

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Oh, and that .org thing, that's the real deal, that means we're publicly and privately accountable now, that we're continuing to evolve into a diverse culinary not-for-profit service organization--a 501( c )3--that also means, for anyone who cares to read around more, that we've moved way way past any of those "food websites" you may be talking about. 

Why is being a 501( c )3 so important right at this very moment? I do appreciate it, but tell me how eGullet being tax-exempt effects us in this situation. I am certain good charity/nonprofit work is being done here, but in this context it seems like a crutch. I'm not trying to undermine anything or anybody. I'm just being real.

No matter what anyone says, no matter if you are a regular old member, a moderator/host or president of the society (look it as an entity, not just eGullet), there will still be politics and ego stakes. That's just human nature. No one can control another's emotional intelligence or lack thereof. No one can control someone's honest opinion about a taste of food or a dining experience (or can they?).

...the tension and private interests are blatant sometimes.

Why does a change for the better (.com->.org) sound threatening to me? I know it wasn't meant to be a threat. It's because my ego is at (Ray's the) Steak(s), and you buried my lede.

I just want to say that I don't give free passes to writers or critics (that's not in my jurisdiction), but I continue to post interesting Kliman columns with hopes that others will chime in and share their own (penetrable) opinions if they want.

I am a cheerleader, I'll admit it.

...

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DCatty

DCatty

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Posted (edited)

Interesting comment this, on several levels. 

In addition to local food discussion, show me another "food website" Mark that also has anything remotely like the eGCI or any special feature in print or online with the depth and originality of our Alinea project subforum

Steve,

Perhaps I should amend my quote to say this: This is why most chefs I know don't pay attention to what is said on eGullet or other food/restaurant websites with anonymous posters.

Speaking as an anonymous poster, I certainly hope that local chefs are willing to pay at least some attention to what is said on eGullet. I won't speak about the Washington Post -- I've posted there, but admit that some meaningless mud gets slung -- or other websites. But the reason eGullet has so captured my attention is that it offers us nameless restaurant patrons a small way to communicate with people who seem otherwise out of touch -- the sommelier of Citronelle and the chef at Ray's The Steaks, among many others. If that is not the case, why have the site?

Edited to say that I realize the sommelier at Citronelle and the chef at Ray's The Steaks seem like they would be more than happy to spend time with any nameless restaurant patrons who simply ask for a moment during a slow spot. But really, how likely is that?

Edited by DCatty (log)
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Mark Sommelier

Mark Sommelier

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Edited to say that I realize the sommelier at Citronelle and the chef at Ray's The Steaks seem like they would be more than happy to spend time with any nameless restaurant patrons who simply ask for a moment during a slow spot. But really, how likely is that?

It is my job to spend time with the patrons of my restaurant, slow or busy. The answer to your question: very likely. :smile:

Mark

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DCatty

DCatty

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Edited to say that I realize the sommelier at Citronelle and the chef at Ray's The Steaks seem like they would be more than happy to spend time with any nameless restaurant patrons who simply ask for a moment during a slow spot. But really, how likely is that?

It is my job to spend time with the patrons of my restaurant, slow or busy. The answer to your question: very likely. :smile:

With apologies, I was of course referring to the more substantive conversations that can go on here! Beyond asking you to please find me an affordable red Burgundy with enough of the fruit I like about pinot noir (which you did, on my last visit), I think it would be inappropriate to engage in a much more lengthy discussion while you have others to look after. And, RTS notwithstanding, I don't expect the chef to spend any time with patrons during dinner. That's the value of eGullet to us non-chef, non-sommelier, non-waiter, non-insider types. IMO. :biggrin:

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DCatty

DCatty

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Read the column this week about Jaleo, which I liked. (I'd link it if I were at all sophisticated.) Chef Andres needs to be careful he doesn't dilute his terrific reputation in DC with all the expansion. There doesn't seem to be much risk of that now, with the terrific and well deserved success of Zaytinya and Oyamel (so far). But Todd is absolutely right that Chef A. has "branded" the name Jaleo around here. I have only been to the downtown branch (many times), but I sure would be disappointed if my favorites were much different at the others.

Incidentally, I like the mini-reviews surrounding the column (when written by Todd), but the "sporks" and food scores are proving to be completely useless.

Edited to say that morela is obviously more sophisticated than me.

Edited by DCatty (log)
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mktye

mktye

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Coincidentally, we had dinner at the Crystal City Jaleo last night. The place was very busy (even at 9:00 when we left) and I'm happy to report that the patatas bravas & garlic shrimp were properly cooked and flavorful (and everything else was also excellent). Perhaps Chef Andres was in the kitchen... :laugh:

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butterfly

butterfly

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What Kliman doesn't mention is that Jaleo is a very, very ambitious tapas restaurant to start with. You would never find a place like it here in Spain. Andres has taken the huge and diverse culture of tapas in this country and condensed it into a pan-Hispanic restaurant that caters to the very, very different American way of eating. It is a miracle that it works at all. And I believe that it does--I've never had better tapas in the US.

But tapas are essentally "middlebrow" bar (fast)food that feeds the masses. In many cases, this stuff is given away for free here with a $2 beer...

Trazzler
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iamthestretch

iamthestretch

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Kliman does his usual thorough job on CityZen this week.

Though I'm not convinced this bit came out exactly the way he meant it to: "Technique is learned behavior; the love of a pig -- that's innate."

I guess Ned Beatty did seem to get the hang of it pretty quickly in that movie with the rafting and the banjos and the friendly red staters.

"Mine goes off like a rocket." -- Tom Sietsema, Washington Post, Feb. 16.

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oliveDC

oliveDC

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Hmm, "wiftiness" makes no appearance in good ol' Webster's. And only 33 hits on Google.

But I sure like the sound of Jackie's "braised pork shoulder set atop a pool of delectable collard gravy, made by emulsifying the greens in chicken stock and tomato."

Amanda

Metrocurean, a D.C. restaurant and food blog

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JPW

JPW

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Hmm, "wiftiness" makes no appearance in good ol' Webster's. And only 33 hits on Google.

But I sure like the sound of Jackie's "braised pork shoulder set atop a pool of delectable collard gravy, made by emulsifying the greens in chicken stock and tomato."

I've had that dish. It is even more delicious than it sounds.

If someone writes a book about restaurants and nobody reads it, will it produce a 10 page thread?

Joe W

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Chef Shogun

Chef Shogun

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That exclusivity is carefully tended. Voss doesn’t advertise. Nor, with very few exceptions, does it sell its water commercially; according to Eskeland, Voss has recently rejected offers from several major retail outlets to carry the water.

Guess "Provisions Too", the 'gourmet' mini-mart (As opposed to "Provisions", the normal, crazy markup mart) at George Washington should be honored. They had that stuff two years ago. Haven't been down there, and GW re-did that floor of the Marvin Center, so who knows if you can still get fine Norewgian water (And expensive pasta, and truffle oil, and pate...you know, college essentials) in a cool bottle on your meal plan.

I'm with Mark on this one. I got a bottle from Provisions, and it was alright, but not mind-blowing. I did get sparkling by accident, and I'm not really into sparkling water, so who knows.

Matt Robinson

Prep for dinner service, prep for life! A Blog

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JPW

JPW

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I remember seeing this stuff during my honeymoon a couple of years ago. The first words out of my mouth when I saw a bottle --

"Dude, that would make a great bong!"

If someone writes a book about restaurants and nobody reads it, will it produce a 10 page thread?

Joe W

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