La Regalade, Paris

[cabrales]

I had lunch at La Regelade during 2Q 2002.

Pomme macaire de boudin noir bernais (Boudin noir with potatoes)

Poelee de calamars facon piballes, riz cremeux a l’encre (Pan-fried squid prepared in the style used for little eels sometimes available in Southern France, creamy rice with ink)

Fraises gariguettes d’Aquitaine refraichies au vin rouge (Gariguette strawberries from Acquitaine with a red wine sauce)

Pessac Leognan, Le Sillage de Malartic, Malartic-Lagraviere-Leognan-Gironde, 1998 (39 euros)

A first visit to a restaurant about which I was admittedly a bit intererested in because of discussion on the board. A good meal at very reasonable prices, in a venue that was welcoming and efficient. Granted, the restaurant has tables that are closely spaced, but that did not detract from my enjoyment of a fairly good meal.

The ordering proceeded smoothly. The menu is a prix-fixe only version at 30 euros for 3 courses (the last being cheese or dessert). Certain dishes with supplements were offered, and there were also daily special appetizers and entrees described on various blackboards in the restaurant. To begin, a pork terrine was brought to me in its ceramic cooking container, together with a glass jar of ghuerkins. I liked the country-like, fatty feel of the terrine, and the little bit of solidified fat on top of it. One was allowed effectively as much of this item as one wanted.

The appetizer of blood sausage slices placed on top of supple pureed potatoes was the best dish of the meal. The sausage was dark and imbued with blood taste, and the slices had been well-prepared. The potatoes provided a soft background that augmented the intensity of the blood sausage. The edges of the potato area had been rendered gently crunchy, and the sauce for the appetizer was a cooking jus with elements of apple for acidity. I liked that, but considered the little cubes of green apple unnecessary.

The main course of squid was fair. The squid had been sliced into longish sections, and was tender and appropriately prepared. It had a fairly good aroma. Interestingly, there were fried parsley (adding a slight crunchiness) and fried garlic slices accompanying it. The underlying risotto with ink was average.

The dessert was good. I like the greater sweetness inhering in Gariguettes strawberries, and here they did not disappoint. There was a good amount, in halves, served in a cup. The red wine syrup accompanying the berries was of a light consistency (in a good way), and perfumed appropriately.

Overall, based on only one visit, I liked La Regalade, for its well-prepared food.

[pirate]

Your description of pommes de terre macaire is not the classic version.

[cabrales]

pirate -- What is the classic one? I wonder what the "bernais" at the end of the name refers to.

[Bux]

Although classic terms and classic versions of dishes are dying breeds, I too would like the information abou the classic version here.

Cabrales, I'm glad you enjoyed the meal largely because I've loved that restaurant and have worried about reports that it's gone downhill. I found the restaurant almost perfect for what it tries to be. It reminded me very much of the first restaurants I knew in Paris. They were unsophisticated places by Parisian standards, but to an American student, they afforded an Epiphany, not just a meal. Today these restaurants are banal, but la Régalade brought back the memory with what I found to be simple good honest rustic food very well prepared. That's a much scarcer thing in Paris today than it was in the sixties.

When you say the risotto was average, do you mean average for the risottos you've had elsewhere including fine restaurants, or average for what one gets for 30 euros or dollars?

Speaking of terminology, I wonder if the squid dish got its name from the strips of squid that may have been cut to resemble little eels, or if it was served in the manner that pibales are usually served. To the best of my knowledge, the traditional way of preparing and serving them is in olive oil with bits of red pepper from the Basque region.

[ngatti]

pirate -- What is the classic one?  I wonder what the "bernais" at the end of the name refers to. 

From Larousse Gastronomique, by Prosper Montagne', 1961 first American Edition.

"Pommes de Terre Macaire_ Choose big potatoes, bake in the oven, cut in two and scoop out the pulp with a fork. Mash this pulp incorporating in it several tablespoons of butter, allowing 3 1/2 ounces (100 grams) of butter per 6 cups (kilo) of pulp. Season with salt and pepper.

Put the potato pulp into a frying pan in which some butter has been heated. Spread in a flat cake. Fry golden brown on both sides. Serve this flat cake on a round dish."

Sounds like twice baked potato pancake to me.

Nick

[cabrales]

Nick & pirate -- Thanks. The dish I had did not resemble the "classic" described in Nick's post. It was not pancake-like. It was like a potato-based tart, with the boudin noir in thin slices on top.

Bux -- On the risotto being average, it was better than average relative to the price. Perhaps a clarification is to say that there was nothing outstanding about it. Nonetheless, it was appropriately executed.

[ngatti]

I wonder what the "bernais" at the end of the name refers to.

bernais = past tense, deride. Hmmm

Some whimiscal chef nomenclature vis a vis the apples in the jus?

I'll ask one of my french chef friends.

Nick

[grahamtigg]

It's interesting that Cabrales went for lunch and enjoyed a positive experience. Of our two visits the first was for lunch and was a similar fine occasion. On our dinner visit one or two of the dishes came across as having been thrown together with just a little less care.

For the lunch we also had the squid with ink risotto, although I recall the dish being more a version of arros negra that we've had in Catalunya where the rice is baked (with miscellaneous bits of seafood) rather than the labour intensive risotto method.

[Scottf]

Cabrales

I had the Boudin noir starter when Sam and I visited in Feb. It was also my favourite course of the meal

[Steve Plotnicki]

Cabrales - I see that Yves Camdemborde likes to invert his boudin noir/potato dishes. When I was there last year, I had a Shepherd's Pie made from Boudin Noir. It sounds like he just flipped the sausage and potatoes. And also mine was a main dish and not a starter. And Nick, Yves is from Bearn so the word Bernais (which Cabrales might be spelling incorrectly) probably means "in the style of."

Bux - I agree with you that Regalade is a throwback to the old style bistro. Except there is something that is modern about the food there that I haven't put my finger on yet.

[Jinmyo]

Steve ate Pie.

[Bux]

Jinmyo - You noticed.

Steve - Yes, la Régalade brought back the memory, but it's not precisely the same place as those I knew. Times change and the real ones seem to have all deteriorated. Nevertheless, Camdemborde seems to have avoided all the "retro" cliches and made an honest place--or at least it was when I was there. And yes, it is the product of a contemporary chef who knows his way around haute cuisine and the influence is probably quite discernable. It is nevertheless a place that appeals to those whose interest is in food like boudin noir. It's interesting that almost everyone mentions it. I did not have boudin noir only out of chivalry--my wife beat me to the punch ordering the shepherd's pie and I thought I'd explore more of the menu. I had some incredible kidneys. They were crusted lightly with bread crumbs and seared on the outside, but rare in the middle as I like them and I didn't make a request about how well done they should be.

Graham - I suspect you may be correct about the squid ink rice as the chef is from the southwest next to the Basque region. Your comment also brings to mind the fact that for all the fine meals I've had lately, it's the arroz caldosa of Catalunya that I crave from time to time as the finer dishes from starred restaurants fade. Indeed, la Régalade is the French restaurant that best duplicates the craving I have for simple Catalan seafood dishes. Then again an arroz caldosa made from gambas in the two star Restaurant Sau Pau in Sant Pol de Mer that was quite memorable and our meal included some very creative and elegant haute cuisine as well.

[pirate]

Nick has the classic recipe. It is also the same as served at the Pavillon in the 60's. Check Wechsberg's book "Dining at the Pavillon".

[TarteTatin]

We're off to France at the end of December and will be in in Paris from 1-7 January. We're in the planning stages for restaurants and wondered if anyone here has had any experience at La Regalade in the 14th.

We've heard various reports in Zagat (whose ratings increasingly require a pinch of salt to read) and on the web that service is surly, seating is too close( though we do understand "Parisian seating") and that the quality of the food has slipped.

Has anyone here gone to the restaurant?

[robert brown]

I think you'll find La Regalade one of the more popular Paris bistros on eGullet. I've been there a couple of times, and as the saying goes, "What's there not to like?" It's a tremendous value for money (okay, a very good one now that it takes $1.16 or so to buy a euro); the food is tasty; the choice very large; and many of the products interesting at a time you will be there (several unusual game birds from the South West Berne region). It is somewhat hectic, certainly tight, and with service that is perfunctory, but well-mannered and efficient. In a culinary world that offers diminishing returns, this restaurant is an exception. I can't imagine your leaving without feeling you ate in someplace special.

[Scott]

I LOVE la regalade, and the meal I had last june was the highlight of my trip.

[Bux]

We've heard various reports in Zagat (whose ratings increasingly require a pinch of salt to read) and on the web that service is surly, seating is too close( though we do understand "Parisian seating") and that the quality of the food has slipped.

Has anyone here gone to the restaurant?

It's been too long since I've been back at la Regalade to offer the latest opinion, but I loved it way back when I was there. It may have changed. At that price range, expect to be seated closer to your neighbor than you would be seated to your table companion at any two or three star restaurant. As often as not, tables touch and the table has to be pulled out for anyone sitting against a wall or on a banquette. We've had three meals in Paris so far and at each at I had to be careful not to bump elbows with someone at the adjoining table. Only one of my meals came near matching la Regalade in quality. Why was I not back at la Regalade? For one thing it's the weekend and many restaurants including la Regalade are closed and for another, there's curiosity.

As for surlyness, many Americans confuse a certain brusqueness they perceive in service from someone who's handling more tables than seems humanly possible. The only way a restaurant can serve this kind of food at these prices is to save on labor and to turn tables. Thus you have too few waiters being very busy. I haven't been to la Regalade lately, but I find the staff overworked and the service suffers at many small well priced bistros. It's a fair enough trade off as long as you understand it's not unfriendly.

[Felice]

As for surlyness, many Americans confuse a certain brusqueness they perceive in service from someone who's handling more tables than seems humanly possible. The only way a restaurant can serve this kind of food at these prices is to save on labor and to turn tables. Thus you have too few waiters being very busy.

I completely agree with Bux's assessment. In the States the house can afford to overstaff because they are paying 2$ and hour; in France most waiters are paid a set wage and for every euro that the waiter gets, the restaurant is paying two. So, if I am paid 7 euros per hour, the restaurant is really paying a lot more for all of the social charges.

In the restaurant where I work I have twice as many (at least) tables that I would have in the US, plus no bus person or food runner. When things get busy it is extremely difficult to give good service.

Also, American clients are much more work than French clients. French clients come in, order straight away, and typically don't make many demands. They don't ask a lot of questions, don't have special requests, don't need the menu translated, etc. Americans on the other hand take up a lot of time and I can see waiters getting annoyed with this if they are "in the weeds" so to speak.

However, Americans are also a lot more likely to tip, so many people LOVE having Americans--special requests and all.

[Jonathan Day]

French clients come in, order straight away, and typically don't make many demands. They don't ask a lot of questions, don't have special requests, don't need the menu translated, etc.  Americans on the other hand take up a lot of time and I can see waiters getting annoyed with this if they are "in the weeds" so to speak.

This is very true. To really experience this, go for lunch at a rélais routier (truck stop restaurant) at a busy time, e.g. 1230 on a weekday. (The food at most of these is dreadful, by the way, but there are a few where it is good and good value).

You will get about 2 nanoseconds in which to place your order and tell them the cuisson (degree of doneness) you want. God help you if what you ask for doesn't fit a category they are expecting. My wife, for example, likes her steaks "between medium and well done", bien cuit mais pas trop bien cuit, with just a bit of pink in them. At a slower-paced restaurant, you have roughly a 60% chance of getting this message through, and they are in any event happy to recook a steak that isn't done enough. At a rélais routier, order this way and you will either get your steak very rare (as I like it) or resembling broiled leather. Or they will give you the French equivalent of "fugettaboudit".

A matter of knowing the context you're in and adjusting your expectations accordingly.

[Bux]

Also, American clients are much more work than French clients.  French clients come in, order straight away, and typically don't make many demands.  They don't ask a lot of questions, don't have special requests, don't need the menu translated, etc.  Americans on the other hand take up a lot of time and I can see waiters getting annoyed with this if they are "in the weeds" so to speak.

Don't get me started on this one. I don't think Mrs. B mentioned it directly last night when she was discussing why she would generally avoid a restaurant with lots of Americans dining there. I recall chiming in with my two cents about a particularly nasty situation years ago, but Americans eat up a lot of a server's time. I consider myself an easy diner, but last night I asked about one sauce, mostly because of the wine I was ordering. Not infrequently I ask about a dish or two because there are still menu terms that I don't understand. I have heard American's ask to have every dish on the menu explained and they really expect it to be done in English. I'm willing to settle for a French term I understand like "c'est un poisson" or sauce avec vin rouge." The other night I heard an American ask to change her order after she saw another dish served to another table. That's an imposition on both the server and the kitchen.

[TarteTatin]

Thanks for all the responses. It sounds like a visit to La Regalade will be on the cards for this trip.

Actually, the rushed service quote came from the Paris Zagat and the 'surly service' did, indeed, come from an American.

The only surly service we've ever encountered in France comes from behind the wheel of taxi cabs, or at ticket counters - though there was that guy at a bar near the Madeline - but that was a tourist trap and even the Parisians were getting dissed by him. Even the most rushed waiter seems to be able to handle more than most American servers, and still have time to chat to the regulars.

Of course, this may have to do with going to places that don't do 'Service non stop'. You're there, you've bought the table. The 'Service non stop' places put the emphasis on 'the turn' which does cause service to degrade. I know that when I was waiting tables that the pressure of doing a 'turn' made my personality a little less than sparkling.

Because we generally know what we want, and understand the menu, we're not a typical high maintenance Yank customer.

Edited October 6, 2003 by casting@philacast.com (log)

[paulbrussel]

I was at La Régalade last December, but I can't imagine it has changed a lot since.

Although it gives the impression of a simple bistro, it is quite an interesting, modern and not too simple cuisine.

The chef has worked for years at Les Ambassadeurs, the famous restaurant of the Crillon, in it's best days.

The menu is quite simple. Normally you have a meal of three courses for 30 €, with several choices. There are always dishes which change daily. You can make it much more expensive by choosing lobster for example; then you have to pay a supplement.

Wines are rather good too. They have good but simple wines but also excellent, quite expensive wines.

I can certainly recommend this restaurant.

[marcus]

La Regalade is the best restaurant in its price class that I know, of anywhere in the world.

[pim]

Interesting. I think I am the only one not happy with La Regalade anymore.

The last meal I had there was horrendous. This was late summer last year. Before that, I had been going there a few times a year since about 1994. I had not been very happy with the visits a couple of times before my last meal there, but the last one I had just turned me off completely.

I had gone to Paris on a short notice, as is customary for me, and managed to get a late seating at 9.30. The restaurant was busy as ever, and the service even worse. The food we got was so horrible I wondered if the chef was even around. Among other things, we had Coquille St Jacques with leeks that were rubbery, and the leeks almost burnt to a crisp. We also had foie de veau (veal liver), which was also too well done and came buried in a huge mound of chives. For dessert I ordered Fraises des Bois, served “nature” as in unadorned. I don’t have a problem with serving fruits alone, but those Fraises have been away from the Bois so long they were withered, shriveled, and just plain sad looking.

We did have a delicious lobster dish, but the quality of the other ones were just so bad, and the service even worse, that I decided that would be the last time for me. The whole experience was so bad, and I was so disappointed, that I couldn’t even managed to utter a few nice words when the chef emerged from the kitchen to see how things were going. Our table was nearest the kitchen entrance, so he came to us first, asking how we liked the food----I couldn’t even bring myself to lie just to be nice.

If you are looking for inexpensive bistro meals like La Regalade, I suggest you try either L’os à Moelle or La Repaire de Cartouche. These three chefs trained together under Christian Constant at the Crillon. In a way I do think Yves Camdeborde is arguably the most talented of the three, and this was perhaps the reason why I was so disappointed by the unevenness in quality of his food. My expectation of him was just too high.

L’os à Moelle or La Repaire de Cartouche both, on the other hand, are still my favorites. The menus are smaller than that of La Regalade, and the quality almost always superb. At L’os à Moelle for example, you only have three choices give and take for each course.

Incidentally, you may want to also consider lunch at Café Constant. I went there on Loufood’s recommendation last month, and will be there again next week. The food is great, simple, and homey in the best sense of the word. And, hey, why not try to the food of le maître, chef Constant himself, now that you can eat his food even if you couldn’t, or wouldn’t afford the check at Le Violon (his current restaurant, one star).

Edited October 8, 2003 by pim (log)

[Bux]

I just had the calf's liver at Aux Lyonnais and it may have been the best piece of liver I've ever had. The potatoes were almost as good. This is the place that Ducasse bought with the owner of L'Ami Louis. There's short list of choices and they taste a lot better than you might imagine. I'd go back in a flash.