TN: Recent Silver Oak

[docsconz]

Over the weekend I participated in a Silver Oak Winemaker's dinner at Friends Lake Inn in Chestertown, N.Y. The Inn is one of the finest, if not the finest, restaurants in upstate N.Y. for combining good food with a top-notch wine program. This was their third Silver Oak dinner and the third I have attended. The overriding impression I had of the wines is that they were all thin and almost watery, albeit pleasant drinking with the paired courses. In detail:

Amuse' : Braised short rib ravioli with a veal reduction and coconut froth served with 2000 Twomey Merlot. The ravioli was tasty, although it required additional seasoning. The merlot, a new venture for SO ws smooth with a bit of a chocolate underpinning. It ws a nice wine and one of the better ones of the evening.

1st Course : pan-seared foie gras with 1998 Alexander Valley CS . See here for discussion on the pairing..

2nd Course : Clove Scented Lamb shoulder with caramelized sweet potato plank with a 1999 Alexander Valley CS . The lamb shoulder was excellent. On its' own merits the '99 had more body than the '98 Alexander valley, although it was still pretty thin. Nevertheless, it was a pleasant enough wine to quaff along with the food.

Entree : Pink and Sechuan peppercorn encrusted venison chop with chocolate demi-glace along with 1998 and 1999 Napa Valley CS . The '99 Napa was head and shoulders above the '98, but still "weak" for Silver Oak.

Cheese Course Fontina and Drunken Goat Cheeses along with 1996 Alexander Valley CS . This was the wine of the evening. It had some body along with nuances of cherry and berry fruit.

I didn't add a lot of impression detail to the wine descriptions because I couldn't detect much. The wines certainly weren't bad. They were pleasant enough, but they all lacked distinctive personality. there was nothing unique about them (other than being such "light" California cabs ). I didn't even finish any of my glasses. This was very different from my previous Silver Oak dinner experience, where the wines would practically reach out of the glass, grab onto my lips and pull itself up to my mouth in order to pour itself down my throat. The '99 Napa was being offered for $100/bottle and the '99 Alexander for $60/bottle, both pre-release. I respectfully declined purchase at those prices. For $20 or $30 per bottle, they might be interesting.

[redwinegulper]

I agree. Ten years ago I remember Silver Oak being a favorite. I have not done extensive tastings on Silver Oak lately, but maybe had 5 bottles over the last 5 years. My conclusion is that the wines are much lighter. That is not necessarily a bad thing if there are layers of flavor...but I did not see that either. So it is not a bad bottle...but it is not worth over $30. I think out of the Alexander Valley, that Ch. Souverain is a better cab, and that is close to $20.

[Craig Camp]

Let's just say they have 'expanded' production quite a bit and it shows in the wines. Silver Oak is the Santa Margherita of California Cab.

[Carema]

sometimes we say silver joke......................

[Craig Camp]

sometimes we say silver joke......................

[awbrig]

I actually love Silver Oak. But then again I love Opus One too...

My favorites are the 94 and 96 Napa Cabernet. I also love the recent Alexander Valley vintages...I find them great with food...

[Craig Camp]

I actually love Silver Oak.  But then again I love Opus One too...

My favorites are the 94 and 96 Napa Cabernet.  I also love the recent Alexander Valley vintages...I find them great with food...

It is not a question of Silver Oak or Opus One being bad wines. They are decent wines. They are just incredibly bad values. In a restaurant they are offensively bad values. You would be hard pressed to find a $50 or $60 California Cabernet on a wine list that is not at least equal in quality or better.

The problem with wines like this is they know how to make them exceedingly pleasant to drink and to never offend.

To buy these wines is to waste money. They charge more for Silver Oak and Opus than they do for Montelena. Give me a break!

[awbrig]

How do you compare the Napa's to Quintessa or JP Insignia?

[Mark Sommelier]

I actually love Silver Oak.  But then again I love Opus One too...

My favorites are the 94 and 96 Napa Cabernet.  I also love the recent Alexander Valley vintages...I find them great with food...

The passing last year of Justin Meyer marks a milestone for Silver Oak. I remember the great vintages from the 80s very fondly. To be fair, SO prices have not skyrocketed recently like so many other Napa and Cal cabs. Last year the Wine Spectator revealed that Opus produces 30,000 cases a year. That's a lot of wine! What on earth could justify the insane price levels? The old UC Davis formula for pricing wine said divide the ton price by one hundred to get the bottle price. I can assure you that Mondavi is not paying $11,000 a ton for those grapes!!

[Craig Camp]

How do you compare the Napa's to Quintessa or JP Insignia?

I will be honest and admit that I find it hard to like wines that sell for $100 a bottle that have such short track records. Insignia has at least been around for awhile. There are just so many top quality modern style reds around these days I see no reason to spend that kind of money as you just don't get enough of a pleasure increase to justify the extra bucks.

You can find wines just as good if not better than these two from almost anywhere serious wines are made these days. A restaurant that is not finding these interesting wines and recommending them to their customers must be suspect in all levels of their operation.

I would take the Insignia over Opus or Silver Oak.

By the way I tasted a 2000 Kamen Cabernet Sauvignon for under $50 this week that I would much rather drink than any of these.

[redwinegulper]

I would take Quintessa & Insignia over Opus & Silver Oak. But I have never been impressed by Opus which I feel has always been overhyped and overpriced.

[Carema]

By the way I tasted a 2000 Kamen Cabernet Sauvignon for under $50 this week that I would much rather drink than any of these.

I tried the Kamen too although it is more like 60 bucks here and it is pretty darned good... have you tried the Kelham, that's my new toy. 1999 vintage located a hair over from Opus One. Same rich black fruit about 1/3 the price of Opus. And while we are on the subject- why cannot Opus admit it is a Cabernet. I think think think the 1999 vintage was about 94% if I am not mistaken. But I guess that leaves them room to blend in not so great years. Which in retrospect is probably a smart move....

[John W.]

Just put the Kamen on our list. Killer wine. Big fan of Darioush Cab too.

I just don't get Silver Oak. Never have.

[Carema]

have the Darioush too...the most exciting wine of last week was the Frick 1998 Syrah. Talk about mouth numbing blackness so rich so fantastic and about 24 bucks on the shelf. I stamped the cork onto my tasting notes and the impression actually dried black. I do not think this is red wine. it is black wine. It was Nothern Rhone with a huge crack habit.

[John W.]

That's comedy.

Try the Darioush shiraz (owner from Shiraz, Iran). Opened the 2000 last month (a crime admittedly) but another black wine. So chocolatey and bacony I think the phrase "tastes like a bacon-flavored tootsie roll" was used.

Back to topic, I used to live and work in Napa and was amazed at the Silver Oak release parties. Hordes of people drinking it, I would get sent back a lot of glasses (had a pretty decent vertical going all night) and I was always underwhelmed. Give me a glass of Dalla Valle and I'll be happy. I almost gave up on drinking CA Cabs altogether until a one day stretch of '99 Dominus, '97 Insignia and a early 90's/late 80's Napa Cab from Phelps got me back in the game.

[malachi]

If you ever get the chance, taste the Silo Cab. IMHO, it's another "spoiler" for over-hyped wines like the SO, Opus etc (though sadly I fear it may have been "discovered" at last as I've heard people mentioning prices in excess of $30 for it now - sigh).

[Mark Sommelier]

This is how I use Opus, Shafer Hillside, Martha's on my winelist: These wines are all priced $250-$300. I tell people (its mostly guys who order this stuff), you can drink that if you want. For the same money I can sell you a mature Bordeaux. Think: '86 Lynch Bages, '85 Leoville Las Cases, '85 Brane Cantenac. Most of them choose the Bordeaux. Duh.