TDG: Wine Camp: ABC, Easy as 123?

[docsconz]

I certainly don't quarrel with the fact that there are many wonderful California chardonnays are produced at the upper end of the price spectrum. However the under $20.00 crowd is a pretty boring group.

I must admit that I can't recall the last interesting under $20 California chard that I've had. Since I have not tried them all, Tommy, I must admit that some may yet exist .

[Craig Camp]

I certainly don't quarrel with the fact that there are many wonderful California chardonnays are produced at the upper end of the price spectrum. However the under $20.00 crowd is a pretty boring group.

I must admit that I can't recall the last interesting under $20 California chard that I've had. Since I have not tried them all, Tommy, I must admit that some may yet exist .

But that's the rub isn't it. I have had decent and relatively interesting chardonnay from France, Italy, Spain - even Australia fo under $20, but where is Californina?

Does anyone know Castle Rock? I have been told they are making some good values.

[hollywood]

Does anyone know Castle Rock? I have been told they are making some good values.

Don't know the wine, but at $10-$12 per bottle it could be worth investigating.

http://www.castlerockwinery.com/00wines.htm

[itch22]

I heard that the Chablis region is a good source of lightly oaked Chardonnay. Would you agree, and if so are there any estates that stand out in your mind?

[Craig Camp]

I heard that the Chablis region is a good source of lightly oaked Chardonnay.  Would you agree, and if so are there any estates that stand out in your mind?

Chablis is a great source of lightly oaked or no oak chardonnay. Generally the higher up the price ladder you go the more oak you will find. The traditional barrel used in Chablis is a bit larger than the barrique used in the rest of Burgundy and helps reduce over oaked flavors. Many straight Chablis and even Premier Cru wines see no oak at all.

An easy to find and well made brand of un-oaked Chablis is Laroche whose regular Chablis is light and fresh.

[primowino]

So, can someone explain (I know Craig hinted at it in the column) why oak sometimes works and sometimes not? 

I know everyone's taste is different and some people will love everything oaky, including the horrible chards we're discussing, while others don't go near ports and riojas etc because they are not "pure" enough. But in answer to the question, I think for most people oak works when the body and power of other flavours in the wine are sufficient not to be overpowered. So port and full bodied reds can take more oak, and still taste good, than a chardonnay for instance. Some oak also seems to taste nicer than others but maybe it's just the wine they're in.

The problem of over-oaked chardonnay isn't restricted to the New World in my opinion. I have been very disappointed by some Grand Cru Chablis and even Meursault because, even with several years age, the over-riding character was oak. The problem is unless you do your research and the information is available it is sometimes difficult to know which burgundian producers are oakheads. When the style is to my taste, white burgundy (including Chablis) is the real thing.

Edited December 24, 2003 by primowino (log)

[LOS]

I heard that the Chablis region is a good source of lightly oaked Chardonnay.  Would you agree, and if so are there any estates that stand out in your mind?

Chablis is a great source of lightly oaked or no oak chardonnay. Generally the higher up the price ladder you go the more oak you will find. The traditional barrel used in Chablis is a bit larger than the barrique used in the rest of Burgundy and helps reduce over oaked flavors. Many straight Chablis and even Premier Cru wines see no oak at all.

An easy to find and well made brand of un-oaked Chablis is Laroche whose regular Chablis is light and fresh.

Chablis may be the single largest category in my cellar. As the prices continue to creep up, I am buying less and less, however. Long gone are the days when you could have your pick of basic Chablis from any grower for $14.

There are 3 basic categories of Chablis producers

-- those who use stainless steel to age their wines

-- those who use oak, mostly old, to age their wines

-- those who use oak, including much new oak

Of course, these are not strict categories. I tend to avoid wines in the third category, but like wines from both the other categories. Here are the standout estates:

Louis Michel -- stainless

Adhemar Boudin -- mostly stainless

R&V Dauvissat -- mostly old oak, 20% new for grands crus

Raveneau -- mostly old oak, up to 40% or so new for grands crus

W. Fevre -- mostly old oak, I think. things have changed and improved here recently

LaRoche -- uses too much oak in the high end wines for my taste, but have good material. IME, the "St Martin" bottling has often been thin and characterless

Any good 1er cru or grand cru chablis will need at least a half day of air if you want to drink it young. The wine will still taste good on the first day, but it will be a pale shadow of what it could be.