Urban Hawker

[johnnyd]

Back from a conference in NYC yesterday, where before our flight we had the chance to check out Urban Hawker which I read about in the NYTimes in January. Developed by KF Seetoh, Tony Bourdain's partner in his multi-ethnic street food project for the old Fulton Street pier fish market. As veterans here probably already know, things got complicated and then Tony checked out, but Mr. Seetoh kept at it. A pared down version of AB's vision focusing on just Singapore street-food 'hawkers', who had been cleared out of Singapore streets in an effort to polish the city for foreigners - I think some have been allowed to return after fierce citizen lobbying.

 

 

 

Located in a indoor concourse between 50th and 51st St. near 7th Ave, Mr. Seetoh invited existing and semi-retired Singapore street chefs to participate and they opened in September 2022.

 

 

 

 

My wife and I eagerly explored the ~17 vendors there and settled on sharing two dishes and an amazing Singaporean coffee for dessert.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since it was just after opening, not everyone was set up, but these guys at Dim Sum Darling were ready to go.

 

 

 

 

Happy to honor the crew recommendations, we had the Meat Supreme, represented convincingly by the ubiquitous food sculpturing on the far right. Would we like to add marinated shitake mushrooms? Say no more. How about a hard-boiled egg, (which I suspect, was simmered in mirin/soy)?  Why, yes, yes we would.

 

 

 

Fish cakes, seasoned ground pork, cabbage hide the dumplings nestled in thin vermicelli in an amazing broth. Served with a bit of XO and chili sauce. About $20. (Far and away the best meal we had in NYC over our two-night stay).  I'd have this for breakfast every day.

 

 

The Sling Bar, serving seasonal gin-based cocktails and Singaporean twists on classics. Not even noon so they were quiet. The bar is at the entrance on the 51st St side, right across the street from Le Bernardin

 

 

 

 

Next, we had the highly popular Singapore Hainanese chicken rice, at Hainan Jones (see row of hanging chicken above). These guys were the only ones with a form-a-line tape divider, and the staff was cranking, and it's just Tuesday. They handle a brisk call-ahead crowd too. Our order was ready in about 90 seconds...

 

 

 

 

Available fried, roasted or poached, we chose poached as suggested by Pete Wells in his NYT review.

 

 

 

 

We ordered a side of tofu. A thickish, soy/hoisin/maybeblackvinegar condiment electrified the dish. Chinese broccoli was perfectly steamed. Both of our dishes featured liberal scatterings of fried shallots. 

 

 

 

It was time to start our walk to Port Authority so we got a kopi from Kopifellas, dark-roasted coffee brewed in a sock and steamed with Evaporated ('for the cream') and condensed ('for the sweet') milk.

 

 

 

It was delicious.

While my wife watched the capable crew concoct our brew, a lady struck up a conversation. She was an event planner from mid-town and had come to check it all out. "Wait. You're here from Maine, and I've only heard about this place yesterday?!"  Indeed, I'm a little bewildered our esteemed NYC members haven't mentioned this jewel box near Times Square, but as a former New Yorker, I understand the appeal of avoiding the area. We have been exactly nowhere for four years (obligatory holidays at in-laws outside of Boston don't count) so a whirlwind two nights in Times Square when our annual industry conference resumed was just what we needed.

 

 

 

 

There are many, many other dishes here we have to come back and try - Mr. Wells covers quite a few in the NYT review above. (Alternative review without paywall in Thrillist.com)  For our first step into the post-pandemic (so far) travel milieu, this was a home run.  Do visit soon. Post your reviews in this thread if you like.

Cheers,

JohnnyD

 

 

 

 

Edited March 29, 2023 by johnnyd (log)

[heidih]

Thanks so much for your report and images. I'd only seen onereview and it was lukewarm so I appreciate your links to others. 

[johnnyd]

21 minutes ago, heidih said:

Thanks so much for your report and images. I'd only seen onereview and it was lukewarm so I appreciate your links to others. 

 

Pete Wells was lukewarm on a handful of vendors too, probably because things like satays were straightforward instead of going to eleven. He ends his article with a positive vibe, and says "But it could be amazing."

 

We were there as the lunch crowd began surging, but before that, most occupied tables seated Asian patrons, which to me, is a vote of confidence. Honestly, if we didn't have a flight out, we'd've been there all day.

[weinoo]

1 hour ago, johnnyd said:

  Indeed, I'm a little bewildered our esteemed NYC members haven't mentioned this jewel box near Times Square, but as a former New Yorker, I understand the appeal of avoiding the area.

 

I was pretty sure that "we" had talked about Urban Hawker, as I distinctly remember asking @KennethT if he'd been.  Then looking through everything, I realize it was either via text or PM that we discussed it, as Ken had been there pretty soon after they opened.

 

Of course, I'd recently been to Le B - and we don't really call that neighborhood Times Square! (Last night, however, we went to a play on The Deuce, and that is much more Times Square than 51st Street!)

[johnnyd]

You are right, Sir!  I suppose it had been such a whirlwind this weekend I neglected to account for the extra blocks North. My wife and I had so much fun. We got all delusional about buying a pied a terre somewhere midtown, but I've run out of children to sell...

[weinoo]

1 minute ago, johnnyd said:

You are right, Sir!  I suppose it had been such a whirlwind this weekend I neglected to account for the extra blocks North. My wife and I had so much fun. We got all delusional about buying a pied a terre somewhere midtown, but I've run out of children to sell...

Might cost you children + a kidney. (And you don’t wanna really live midtown, do ya?)

 

Strangely, my wife and I have had multiple discussions about buying something somewhere else!

 

It’s a great city to visit!