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Pourcels' Compagnie to Open in Paris


cabrales

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Zagat reports:

"Compagnie des Comptoirs (La): A third location (the others are in Montpellier and Avignon) to open in Paris later this spring, from the Pourcel Brothers (also of the Michelin three-star Jardin des Sens in Montpellier)."

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I ate in the Avignon branch with friends in Sept last year.

It was seriously one of the worst meals I have ever had in France. Discordant ingredients appeared on the plate with no relation to each other; a lot of effort in the presentation but not in the cooking. Service haughty and unfriendly: two dishes (one starter and one dessert) which had figs as a major ingredient arrived with quince instead; we were told that we should have know that figs were out of season at the time we went - in which case, why on the menu? Desperately trendy and desperately empty bar completed the sorry state.

Our French friends had been before, and only went again at my request; they thought it expensive and disgusting. Not sure I understand what the Pourcels are trying to do here; it seriously put me off trying Jardin des Sens; I'm not a traditionalist when it comes to food but I do like some intelligence put into the process.

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We had several excellent meals in le Jardin des Sens when it was two stars. We've not had a chance to eat there since it was three stars and not been to any of the other restaurants run by the Pourcels, but the reports I've been hearing sadden me.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

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